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Old 01-12-2009, 12:45 PM   #16
Paradox Pete
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Location: Inland Wash. state near Can. border
Oddometer: 62
T-Dub pros & cons....

Bike has been around for almost 25 years, so it has got to be pretty reliable.
I like the tire sizes for dirt riding and they seem OK for pavement, too.

Trans is close-ratio, and you have to change gearing at the rear sprocket unless you are willing to split the cases to change counter-shaft.
Bike does not have a low enough first gear. (Go to a 55 tooth rear sprocket, minimum...58 teeth will put 2nd where 1st was "stock"....)
Oil cap. is only ONE quart.
If you off-road you NEED chains from brake pedal and toe of shifter to somepalce on the frame so you don't jam a sage bush or sapling in there.
Front fender clearance is so minimal you probalby cannot run ice studs with factory front fender.
George Jetson styling SUCKS.
Factory sprockets and drive chain will wear or stretch and need replacement sooner than they should. (DID is GOOD chain...)
Sprocket/hub bolts are a rattle-fit.
I drilled over-size and file-fit larger grade 5 or 8 SAE bolts & aircraft locknuts.

"Is it worth it?":
We'll have to see....I have just got my T-Dub "hacked" by Dauntless, and have a new, fine LL front end that HAS clearance and won't jam a pebble between tire and fender.
Bike seems to have adequate power w/ 58 to 60 tooth rear sprocket for a light hack, but I don't know for sure, yet.
It IS quiet and reliable and doesn't handle poorly.
I can't swing the $ and time of a URal, as well as the heavier weight, and I have bet my time and paltry "treasure" that the little T-Dub will be all I really NEED.

Time will tell.....
Paradox Pete (pix of my T-Dub are over on the hack forum....)
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Old 01-12-2009, 12:46 PM   #17
neepuk OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-B
How is the power on the TW 200's? I'm looking to add a dual sport to the garage, but i just imagine the 200 would be kind of slow. I love the looks of the fat tires, and they look like a blast to ride, but do they have enough power? I'm not looking for a race bike, but i want something with a little power.

Thanks,

Brian
Don't be fooled, the T-Dub is no speed machine but it's got low enough gears and enough power to pull me around anywhere I want to go. Top speed is near or above 70 but I don't ride it much over 55... Rarely go above 45 actually.

It's like a little supermoto on really tight twisties and goat trail/roads. Slow in the sand but it floats through the deep stuff better that I expected...

If the TW had too much more power it would point out the inadequacies in the suspension... As it is, it's a good balance. Not too powerful or fast so it won't overwhelm the suspension. Smooth, stable riding will make a rider faster that pure power and the TW makes it easier to be smooth, mostly because of it's awesome traction.
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Old 01-12-2009, 01:05 PM   #18
byron555
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Location: Central Wisconsin
Oddometer: 1,110
tw200 hack

http://globeriders.com/sidecar/advrider/tw05.jpg

check out hacks too, the yamahammer tw200
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Old 01-12-2009, 04:24 PM   #19
dynamos2000
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Location: Tennessee
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Got her today and I'm in love.

Note to self on first ride - DOGS CAN CATCH YOU. Interesting 11 miles this evening. Also, where's the beef? I mean brakes?

Here's Wheezer:

From TW200



From TW200



From TW200



From TW200
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:09 PM   #20
rider33
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damn it, I'm just going to have to break down and get one of these things.
I'm likely too tall at 6'2", and I for sure don't need another bike to try to squeeze into the garage but each and every time I see one they just sort of make me smile. When did they loose the kick-start?
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:34 PM   #21
fazer6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rider33
damn it, I'm just going to have to break down and get one of these things.
I'm likely too tall at 6'2", and I for sure don't need another bike to try to squeeze into the garage but each and every time I see one they just sort of make me smile. When did they loose the kick-start?
Some time in the '90s I think, but it gained a disk brake.
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Old 01-13-2009, 05:48 AM   #22
Yooper_Bob
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Location: Da UP, eh! (Michigan)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rider33
damn it, I'm just going to have to break down and get one of these things.
I'm likely too tall at 6'2", and I for sure don't need another bike to try to squeeze into the garage but each and every time I see one they just sort of make me smile. When did they loose the kick-start?
Yer not too tall....heck, I'm 6'6" and I love ta jump on 'da wifes TW and take it for a run!
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Old 01-13-2009, 11:25 AM   #23
Streamin' E
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We love ours!

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Old 01-13-2009, 03:47 PM   #24
Colemanfu
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Location: DAYTONA USA
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My TW rocks. 180 rear tire what the hell?

I got one last Feb for the wife we love it. Great little city bike. Fun to blast around on. It will keep up with traffic but I don't like to run it at 65 for long. No so quick it will throw you off -in fact it's hard to get into trubble on it. I did some mods to make it cooler: taller bars, Baja Designs rear tail, Jimbo shield, short seat , old Vmax pegs........ easy to tinker with as well.

Check that sight glass for oil and it will run forever.

Oh yea she has put some miles on it and now we want to get her a street bike.
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Old 01-13-2009, 07:42 PM   #25
Paradox Pete
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Location: Inland Wash. state near Can. border
Oddometer: 62
Tires other than stock Bridgestones...

I get confused easy so I probably mis-read the posts with nice pix of more- aggressive-than-stock front & rear tires for the T-Dub.

What I found at Bike Bandit: in stock size/tead pattern (what came on the bike from Yamaha) for the front 130/80 18" there is the Bridgestone C66P TW31, that is a rounded profile "trials-type" (I'de call it....)
I have "issues" with this tread pattern on the fine sand and flour-like dust of the dirt roads I travel mostly on.
Stock front tread "skates" sideways across the loose stuff.... (Front wheel "drifts" spook me when I'me on two wheels.)
A better pattern for my AO is the Maxxis 6006 130/80 18 (six double-ought six)
The problem I had was that this tire is listed as a REAR tire.
It also might be "directional", which would mean you might be better off mounting it on the un-driven front wheel in REVERSE if there is and arrow showing direction of rotation on it.
I believe the 6006 is called an "Enduro" tread, but it looks like a staggered knobby to me and is noticeably more aggressive thant he stock Bridgestone.

You can get a similar pattern rear tire, but I'me happy if I'me able to slide the rear and I think that the small motor will perform better if it can spin a bit rather than be hooked-up like a cog railway.
I had NO trouble with rear traction with the stock tire in the rocks once I had lowered the tire pressure.

Dunlop makes a similar size and pattern tire (Dunlop 606 ?) to the Maxxis 6006, but I think the Maxxis is a better tire.

If you can't find the tire and tread you want for your front 18", try listed under REAR tires.

Paradox Pete
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Old 01-13-2009, 09:18 PM   #26
neepuk OP
Such a drag...
 
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Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Redstone, CO
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Have any of you removed your airbox and replaced it with a pod?
Any smaller, yet more efficient airboxs available for these bikes?
How about any typical air box mod pics?
Are there any common exhaust swaps or aftermarket exhausts that you are particularly fond of?
Jetting changes?
Or have you guys just left them stock so far?

I'm considering tearing in to it a bit but I don't want to ruin my mileage...
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:08 AM   #27
Surfn54
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Sprocket explanation needed

I do not mean to interupt the thread, but I need a question answered regarding my new TW.

The tw200 comes with a low geared transmission. Most of my research shows that those who want better top end speeds need to go from a stock 50 rear to a 47 tooth and in addition go from a stock 14 front to a 15.
That is fine, but can anyone explain why not go to a 45 rear or 43 or 41 etc.....as well as a 16 or 17 front? Can anyone explain what happens as you keep going and why the 47/15 seems to be the best improvment?

Surf
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:15 AM   #28
Surfn54
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Move The Thread?

Neepuk, Since you started the thread.....Would it best to move it under the Sticky: The Bike Specific Index Thread ? This falls at the top of the main page of THUMPERS
That way we can avoid getting lost?
Do we need to get permission from Gadget Boy?
Just wondering

Surf
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:58 AM   #29
Skippii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfn54
I do not mean to interupt the thread, but I need a question answered regarding my new TW.

The tw200 comes with a low geared transmission. Most of my research shows that those who want better top end speeds need to go from a stock 50 rear to a 47 tooth and in addition go from a stock 14 front to a 15.
That is fine, but can anyone explain why not go to a 45 rear or 43 or 41 etc.....as well as a 16 or 17 front? Can anyone explain what happens as you keep going and why the 47/15 seems to be the best improvment?

Surf
Getting correct chain tension, perhaps?
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:49 AM   #30
Paradox Pete
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Location: Inland Wash. state near Can. border
Oddometer: 62
TW200 "better(?) top speeds"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfn54
I do not mean to interupt the thread, but I need a question answered regarding my new TW.

The tw200 comes with a low geared transmission. Most of my research shows that those who want better top end speeds need to go from a stock 50 rear to a 47 tooth and in addition go from a stock 14 front to a 15.
That is fine, but can anyone explain why not go to a 45 rear or 43 or 41 etc.....as well as a 16 or 17 front? Can anyone explain what happens as you keep going and why the 47/15 seems to be the best improvment?

Surf
Surf,
RUle-of-thumb seems to be 1 or 1 1/2 mph per rear sprocket tooth.
If you off-road in rocks and up steep hills you will get so much gear-lash/chain snatch you are going to thin you are goig to knock the bottom end out of yoru T-Dub.
Also, lugged down gets em' HOT at very low speeds. (NOT "IMO", jsut fact...)

Gearing taller/faster:
You've got a close ratio gearbox and if you went ONE tooth larger on your counter-shft there would be a BIG difference. (Also, keep in mind that 1st is about where you would want it to be, even on the street already...Make several "starts" from dead stop in SECOND gear before you radically change your stock ratios.)
If you have no problems startign in 2nd, take your pocket calculator and figure IF your gearing change is going to put 1st where 2nd is "stock", where will that put 5th?
If you are very light, like around not over 125 lbs. you can probalby pull taller gear ratios better than a 200 or 250 lb. rider.

"Given" the small engine, large tires(heavier/harder to turn), close ratio 5 speed, good-but-not-state-of-the-art suspension, if you REALLY "need" more speed don't you think you'de be happier with one of those six speed 225 or 250's (or larger)?

My old BSA 441 one would do and indicated 90 mph only when I laid flat on the tank and grabbed the fork tube with my left hand to lower wind resistance, and those old Brit. singles were "TRACTORS".
A small displacement bike being jammed into increasing wind resistance is like going up and increasing gradient, steeper & steeper.
You just are not going to be able to pull extremely tall ratios like you are talking about unless you are going downhill.

You will have to split your cases to change counter-shaft sprockets, and your rear hub needs attention since the bolts are "rattle-fit" to the sprocket/hub holes. (Read previous posts....)
Also, your stock chain and sprockets are not "of the best".
Personally, I have decided to "get along with" the stock counter-shft sprocket, but have replaced rear sprocket and chain.
IF speed is paramount to NOT use O-ring chain as there is more drag to it.

Lots of gearing change info. over on tw200forum.com
Serioulsy, try THERE for more info. BEFORE you burn some bridges behind you.
(Probably no higher than 45 tooth rear and stock 14 counter-shaft is practical, and then only for "street". or a 15 tooth counter-shft sprocket and 'stock" 50 tooth rear sprocket.)

Paradox Pete (aka Old N' Tyred over on tw200forum)
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