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 01-18-2009, 05:21 PM #16 snpl n00b   Joined: Sep 2007 Oddometer: 8 Below you can see the half part of the right (as we ride the bike) of the crankcase. Be aware that the driveshaft and the countershaft are actually alligned so the 2nd drive gear and the 2nd Driven gear are in contact. In the picture this is not happening because when I split the crankcase , countershaft moved so in picture is a bit higher from its original position. I will try and explain a bit how the transmition between Neutral and 2nd works: 2nd Drive gear rotates as it is attached and "locked" to the countershaft.But the 2nd Driven gear is actually rotating freely on drive shaft (Neutral Position).It needs 4th driven gear to rise up,bind with it and force drive shaft to rotate (2nd Gear Position). This happens because the 4th driven gear is bind to drive shaft in a way that they rotate together but the gear can move up-down. 4th driven gear is moving up and down because the 1st fork embraces it and forces it to move like this.The fork its self is forced by the gear shifting cam rotation. The fork has an cylinder arm that it is attached to the cam's guidlines.Guidelines look like this /\ ------/ \-------\ \------ (sorry for diagram but i have no clear picture for it) As the cam is rotating it forces the arm (and so the fork ) to move up or down to certain positions. The arrows on the pictures indicate the position of 1st and 2nd shifting fork as cam rotates to 1st, Neutral and snd gear. The Problem: When I eventually opened the crankcase I believed that the damage would be something obvious.Possible broken teeth of gears, forks, or other parts.The real problem was that everything looked ok (with no excesive damage but all parts had minor surface - contact - damage). I made a conclusion that all this small problems were added together and formed the automatic gear shifting problem. What is happening: As 2nd driven gear and 4th driven gear come close, the damaged contact surfaces cannot hold the torque provided so the gears detach (To see exactly how these gears work please consult a online part store or wait for me to post a picture!).The detachment pushes the 4th gear down so the fork is forced to move also.Eventually the fork's arm presses the cam guidline and the cam rotates to neutral. If you look carefully on the picture you will see that the 2nd gear position is in a guidline that forms "a top of a hill" on that spot.So it is easy for the arm to rollback to neutral position. I hope you can understand what is happening.Plz forgive my expression mistakes but mechanical terminology in english is something completely new to me.
 01-19-2009, 12:13 PM #17 NordieBoy OP Armature speller     Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,954 Got another one... DR650 3rd gear blowups... NordieBoy (NZ) 2001 60,000km Transalper (NZ) 2001 55,000km Rosscoact (AU) 2004 13,000km Mardy (US?) 1997 53,000km TH (NZ) 1999 40,000km RubberCow80 (AU) 2001 25,000km (2nd gear?) Philth (AU) 3 bikes <20,000km (2nd gear?) BikeRooter (AU) 2006 10,200km Madsdad (US) 2005 16,000km
 01-27-2009, 02:05 AM #18 NordieBoy OP Armature speller     Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,954 Got the quote to fix mine... \$7300nz That's about \$4000us... Just for parts. \$2000nz for the cases alone. + time...
 01-27-2009, 04:43 AM #19 ADVJake i like stuff     Joined: Aug 2004 Location: Sydney, Australia Oddometer: 4,328 yep, when it grenades like that, its a case of, sell the rest as parts or keep as spares... buy another 2nd handy or a brand newie. They are cheap enough anyways __________________ "And some guy said, let there be filtering, and we filtered and we saw that it was good, and hours became minutes..."
 01-27-2009, 01:09 PM #20 NordieBoy OP Armature speller     Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,954 Got a 28,000km 1997 for just under \$4000nz (\$2200us) and will transplant the engine to my rolling chassis and keep the wheels and sell the rest for parts.
 01-29-2009, 01:00 PM #21 NordieBoy OP Armature speller     Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,954 After riding a mates (TH in the list) DR650 that has blown up and been repaired it seems like I was definitely in 2nd gear when it let go. Also his bike has a pronounced engine based vibration from about 60kph in 3rd gear (5000 odd rpm?). I think the counterbalancer is out a tooth or 2.
 02-01-2009, 05:04 AM #22 briangv99 n00b   Joined: Dec 2008 Oddometer: 3 add mine to the list. 21,000km and third let go big time, cases, crankshaft, piston, rod etc are all scrap. Got a complete engine from a wrecker to replace it for \$2k
 02-01-2009, 05:24 AM #23 Teddy Trail Lover     Joined: Jun 2008 Location: Venezuela Oddometer: 80 Hmmm I'll just leave this here:
02-01-2009, 06:10 AM   #24
rivercreep

Joined: Feb 2007
Oddometer: 3,159
I'll count my blessings.........

over 50,000 miles on a 91 and 97 without nary a hiccup!
Then again, I'll admit my off road pace was geared the same way as the bikes were......somewhat mellow!

I wish you guys the best!
...........only bought my little XT250 since I'm doing more off road now.
These reports make me even more happy with my decision.
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by windmill The biggest lesson I learned is that real world usability trumps supposedly technical superiority.

 02-01-2009, 05:42 PM #25 NordieBoy OP Armature speller     Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,954 DR650 3rd gear blowups... NordieBoy (NZ) 2001 60,000km Transalper (NZ) 2001 55,000km Rosscoact (AU) 2004 13,000km Mardy (US?) 1997 53,000km TH (NZ) 1999 40,000km RubberCow80 (AU) 2001 25,000km (2nd gear?) Philth (AU) 3 bikes <20,000km (2nd gear?) BikeRooter (AU) 2006 10,200km Madsdad (US) 2005 16,000km briangv99 (AU) 2006 21,000km Hey Brian. Where are you from and what year is your bike? NordieBoy screwed with this post 02-01-2009 at 11:25 PM
 02-01-2009, 06:40 PM #26 briangv99 n00b   Joined: Dec 2008 Oddometer: 3 G'day Nordie, Canberra, Australia. 2006 model. Just came across your pics on TT, mine looked much the same inside, except less damage, I was only about 200 metres from home when it went
02-01-2009, 11:27 PM   #27
NordieBoy OP
Armature speller

Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 6,954
Quote:
 Originally Posted by briangv99 G'day Nordie, Canberra, Australia. 2006 model. Just came across your pics on TT, mine looked much the same inside, except less damage, I was only about 200 metres from home when it went
Yep. Thought it was Aussie type distances.

Do you remember what gear you were in when it went?
Could yours have been a 2005 old stock sold as a 2006?

02-01-2009, 11:45 PM   #28
XRsteve

Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Oregon
Oddometer: 254
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Foot dragger Honda XR 600s have blown third when run hard since their inception,I dont think Honda ever address'd it. 4 DRs out of how many out there? hard to call it a trend but maybe more will chime in.
I'm pretty sure this was just the XR 600s made in the eighties. I believe they fixed it in 1990. I hadn't heard that DRs can do it too. Was this from abuse or lack of maintenance? Or a possible design issue?

 02-02-2009, 12:03 AM #29 ADVJake i like stuff     Joined: Aug 2004 Location: Sydney, Australia Oddometer: 4,328 definitely design issue. The DR being such a detuned overbuilt engine should withstand any abuse at the gearbox. The regular occurrence of the similar faults is evident here.. You dont usually see pistons, rings, cylinders or cranks failing on DRs, they all seem to be 2nd or 3rd gear... __________________ "And some guy said, let there be filtering, and we filtered and we saw that it was good, and hours became minutes..."
02-02-2009, 04:32 AM   #30
LukasM

Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Vienna, Austria
Oddometer: 5,147
To keep this in perspective, we are talking about 10 bikes out of many many thousands across the various forums that Nordie is on (ADV, TT, etc).

At the same time there must be a reason why it's always 3rd drive gear and Suzuki changed the part recently.

 GEAR,3RD DRIVE 24231-12D21 (replaces 24231-12D20) 1 \$53.39
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