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Old 01-22-2009, 10:35 AM   #61
nooncrew
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http://www.discountramps.com/smc-600...cle-hauler.htm

Try one of these...
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Old 01-22-2009, 01:47 PM   #62
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I use the triple wide folding ramps to load bikes in to pick-ups. Like this one:

http://www.ramp-master.com/144.html

It's overkill, but it just makes loading a bike so easy and worry free. What ever ramp you get, make sure you tie it to the truck, so it can't slip off while you are loading or unloading. I never used to do this, even though (when finally read) the instructions said to do it and the strap was included. It's a good idea. Believe me.

I too use those soft figure eight loops just above the triple tree. Personally, I don't think you need the rachet style tie downs. Just lean the bike one way, hook on one side & tighten the strap a bit and then repeat on the other side.

I don't use a wheel chock. The tire against the middle of the front of the bed is more than good enough.

If I'm going far, I'll use a couple more tie downs attached to the pegs and the rear of the bed. But I don't really think it's necessary at all. The bike never moves in a pickup. But because a trackbike once did a bit in an unsprung trailer, I do it anyway.

The whole thing takes about 5 minutes. And the folded ramps fit behind the seat in an extended cab.
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Old 01-23-2009, 06:28 AM   #63
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Toy had a fairly cool (for Toyota) bike transport solution at SEMA..
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Old 01-23-2009, 06:41 AM   #64
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More of the inside track system..
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Old 01-23-2009, 06:45 AM   #65
dwayne
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I like the front wheel corner method. It keeps the front wheel from moving, allows closing the tailgate, even with a pretty long bike. I put two dirtbikes in my standard short box (6.5 feet) and can close the gate.

I have gone off roading with my truck and an LC4 tied in the bed. No problems.

If you have air bleeders on the forks, relase the air after snugging down the straps, and remember to rebleed before riding. It helps save the forkseals.
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Old 01-25-2009, 10:23 AM   #66
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Try this way to unload.

http://www.terramostro.com/gallery.cfm
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Old 01-25-2009, 04:37 PM   #67
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I used wood for my pickup-carry setup. A 90/90 knobby is just about the width of a 2x4, so you make a channel for the front tire by screwing some 2x4's together and then screw that to a 4' 2x4 to center the front tire holder in the bed. I stapled some old truck tire inner tube so it wouldn't mar the box. A couple of cam-lock tie-down straps secure the bike in the box. I use another piece of 2x4 which is cut with a jig-saw to match the contour of the front tire which fits between the bottom of the triple-clamp and the front wheel so that the tie-down straps don't have to compress the forks.



I made the ramp out of 4 8' 2x8 which have holes drilled for a 2x4 cross brace about 1/3 of the way down the 2x8 planks to tie them together to distribute the load over all the planks. Four finger tightened bolts are used to attach the brace underneath. Steel plank holders from Northern Tool bolt to the end of each plank to sit the planks on the edge of the tailgate. When transporting the bike, two planks are stowed on either side of the tires and fastened to the bed extender with bun-gee cords. The stored planks help keep the back of the bike straight when the rear bounces.



Just ride the bike up or down the plank to load or unload the bike. The ramp is wide enough for 4 wheelers or riding lawn mowers.

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Old 01-25-2009, 04:52 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264
I have driven literall thousands of miles with a dirt bike ....

It may be different with a big bike, but you only need 2 straps (you don't really need the soft loops, that just makes it easier) - nothing more...
2 straps will hold the bike when your first loading it. But I never haul a bike with only two straps. I usually use at least 4. The idea being, if any one strap breaks, the bike doesn't fall. And yes. I've had straps break.

Especially if you keep using the same straps over and over.

Do you really want to trust your bike to a single $5 strap?

I like to put the other two straps on the back, to stabilize it better, and keep the back wheel from hopping from side to side (more likely on a trailer than a truck) but if I don't have good tiedown points, just put a second set of straps on the handlebars to catch it should one of the primaries fail.
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Old 01-25-2009, 05:13 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _vortex_
2 straps will hold the bike when your first loading it. But I never haul a bike with only two straps. I usually use at least 4. The idea being, if any one strap breaks, the bike doesn't fall. And yes. I've had straps break.
I agree. I guess I had already taken the extra pair off the handlebars in the above pictures when I remembered that I wanted to shoot pictures for this thread. Having said that, I've never had a strap failure.
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Old 01-25-2009, 05:29 PM   #70
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Here is my backyard made bike holder.

2 1" x 2" box section steel "tubes" tacked together lengthwise. (this was easier to find than a 1" X 4" "tube" and should be even stronger)

6 large pices of angle iron welded vertically onto box sections as wheel chocks.

Bolted in bed at the right height to work with both 21" dirt wheels as well as 17" sportbike wheels. (FWIW the zuma front wheel misses it) Bolted in bed using 4 stainless bolts with flat washers on the inside and nylocks on the outside.

Holds one bige fat pig (GS Adventure) in the center or a dirtbike on each side.

Powercoated.

Bicycle fork holder on the left side for mountain or road bike. Bicycle fits when I have a motorcycle in the center slot.

CB antenna (the truckers know where the state troopers are) mounted on the right side.

I use Ancra Red Sanppers & Ancra Soft Hooks. Red Snapper clips in the bed loops and regular hooks on the soft hooks.

On the Telelever BMWs around the forktubes above the "A" arm.

I could have easily put some huge I bolts in this set up, but the loops in my bed have always been very strong.

The vertical hole the angle iron creates between the square tubbing is a great place to run my large Kryptonite cabe through when I need to lock it up to feel safe.





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Old 01-25-2009, 05:48 PM   #71
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _vortex_
2 straps will hold the bike when your first loading it. But I never haul a bike with only two straps. I usually use at least 4. The idea being, if any one strap breaks, the bike doesn't fall. And yes. I've had straps break.

Especially if you keep using the same straps over and over.

Do you really want to trust your bike to a single $5 strap?

I like to put the other two straps on the back, to stabilize it better, and keep the back wheel from hopping from side to side (more likely on a trailer than a truck) but if I don't have good tiedown points, just put a second set of straps on the handlebars to catch it should one of the primaries fail.
I don't use $5 straps. Never had an issue.
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Old 01-25-2009, 06:40 PM   #72
hgulledge
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You can use my trailer. It is at Hank's house in Devine.
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Old 01-25-2009, 07:23 PM   #73
Twohondas
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The VFR is sort of the same size as a GS.

While I do have a trailer most of the time I just throw the VFR in back of the truck. Mine is two wheel drive with a 78 inch bed. I park in the gutter like others have mentioned which reduces the loading difficulty. If I was to buy a ramp right now I would get the readyramp set up.

I use Canyon dancers as getting a good hold with soft/straps with a fairing is harder. I use some PVC pipe to protect my grips. I can put up a picture if anybody is interested. Tip from another adv rider to me.

I use a chock (HF on sale) but have not had a problem without one if the bike is straight.

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Old 01-26-2009, 12:43 AM   #74
vfxdog
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No need for chocks

I use two additional ties- loop them around the front of the front wheel and run one to the left of the bed, one to the right. Tension them so they are pulling against each other, and that front wheel isn't going anywhere.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:56 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hgulledge
You can use my trailer. It is at Hank's house in Devine.



Good to know.
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