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Old 11-28-2009, 11:26 AM   #226
BluRoad
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Coil Questions

I'm checking the coil on an '81 XL500S. Two questions:

The Honda shop manual shows two ohm checks; first a reading between the 12-volt terminal and ground (mounting boss) -- should be .8 and mine is 1.2. Second, the ohm reading between the hi-tension (plug wire) output and ground -- should be 15K and mine is nada - no continuity at all.

Next, the plug wire shows correct resistance, but the spark plug cap has no continuity when tested alone (it unscrews from the wire & Honda wants the ohm check done without the cap). Is this normal? Is there a built-in gap within the cap?

Also, I have two identical bikes (#1 ran great before tear-down, 2 months ago, #2 unknown running condition) and BOTH coils test exactly the same.

Anyone know if these readings are somehow normal (quite a coincidence that they're the same), or can do a quick test on your bike for comparison?

I appreciate the help.

JOE in WI
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Old 11-28-2009, 11:58 AM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snaildrake
I've been looking at bikes 450cc and under that I might be able to buy and run cheaply, mostly for me and my sons to ride around town. I know of a '79 XL185s for sale - what do you all think of those compared to the 250s and 350s?
Any advice on the best years & models?
Of course if I found the right bike I'd be really tempted to give it the street track treatment...Thanks, ~Snail
my 185 has been a lot of fun to revive and ride around. it obviously isn't the fastest thing, but it is good for cruising around back roads, and if you really want more power out of it there are decent upgrades available from the xr200 (same motor, different bore/cam/gearing). It is especially good as a first bike (if your sons are younger) because it is so light and forgiving. if you want it to do a bit of highway/freeway duty however, you may want to wait for a bigger bike to come around.
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Old 11-28-2009, 02:59 PM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol55
Good to see this thread! trying to revive my sl100k1 again. The kickstart shaft is stripped and has been drilled and welded but fixes are not working. Question - Will a '73 cb125 shaft work on my bike? The diagrams for each show some different gear and shaft #'s but also some #'s that match. Go for it?

Thanks,
Larry
Larry, FYI - I pulled the top end of my SL100 down yesterday. You should see this bike. It has obviously been thrashed every day of its life for the better part of 30 years and on the outside it's showing.

But I pull the heads and cylinder off, and apart from there being a fair bit of carbon build up, you'd swear it's new. There is no discernible lip in the bore, and the piston has no sign at all of blow-by. The rings look good.What an amazing little engine.

I now have to track down the culprit that has brought the compression right down. I'll keep you posted but I suspect the thing just needs a valve grind.
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Old 12-10-2009, 01:41 PM   #229
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Still trying to find out how to adjust the timing on a 1973 XL125. Any suggestiions? Not sure I want to drop the $25 on a book at the moment.
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Old 12-10-2009, 02:23 PM   #230
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if it is like my 83 185 (which is the same as a same gen 125) you loosen the big bolt (a 17 i think) that is on the engine casings behind the cylinder while the engine is running and warm. mine wouldn't adjust properly until i put a new spring in the tensioner.
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Old 12-10-2009, 02:44 PM   #231
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by G2mk3
if it is like my 83 185 (which is the same as a same gen 125) you loosen the big bolt (a 17 i think) that is on the engine casings behind the cylinder while the engine is running and warm. mine wouldn't adjust properly until i put a new spring in the tensioner.
Would it be Number 4?

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Old 12-10-2009, 03:20 PM   #232
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that picture doesn't have the timing parts, it's right where the p in 'pro' in the watermark is
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Old 12-10-2009, 03:21 PM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G2mk3
that picture doesn't have the timing parts, it's right where the p in 'pro' in the watermark is
Ok thanks again G2mk3 I'll see how it works out tonight. Its so old I might need to replace the spring like you mentioned.
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Old 12-10-2009, 09:02 PM   #234
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Does anyone know if the oil orifice is essential in a 1979 XL500? I tore the top end down and there doesn't seem to be one there? The bike used alot of oil before tear down and the valves were very black and carboned. Did the lack of an oil orifice contribute to this? Or can I reassemble the top end without the orifice? And if I need one anyone know where I can get one? Thanks guys.
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Old 12-11-2009, 09:56 AM   #235
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Question

Ok I located the area you described from the Parts image and found a Rubber cover and two bolts. A smaller bolt that screwed into a larger bolt.




I unscrewed the larger Bolt and left the smaller bolt on.



I did some research online that said to insert a bolt and adjust the timing. I found a bolt that fit and begain to adjust it. I was able to push it down and pull it up but it seemed only the middle moved and then went back to it's normal position. This made no difference in the bike running wise.



What did I do wrong and how do I adjust the timing? Do I need to replace the spring that you had mentioned earlier and if so how do I do that? Trying to get the bike running good before x-mas thanks again!
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:33 AM   #236
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while the bike is running you are supposed to loosen the big bolt (leaving the smaller one on top tight) while the engine is warm. now that i think about it hot would be even better...

the function of the big bolt is to tighten two collars (like ones on bar end mirrors) that when squeezed clamp a rod attached to the tensioner (to lock it in place). while the bike is running, you are in effect letting the tensioner move freely, so the spring will push it (up, as if it was going to pop out of the top of the motor), bending a long plastic slide that takes up the slack in the cam chain.

on MY bike, the spring was so old that it couldn't apply enough pressure to actually bend the slide, so when i first tried nothing changed. the spring was cheap at the local stealership, like 3 bucks. BUT you have to take off that side of the case and the flywheel, which doesn't exactly slide off. if you are crafty you can get it off using a bolt that threads into it, but you need to be careful not to wreck the crankshaft (you can put a bit of copper or some soft metal inbetween, AT YOUR OWN RISK or just buy the tool).

i hope i did a OK job explaining the situtation. i wouldn't be suprised if it was the same spring as on my xl185 and the xr200's. i bought a spring for a 2002 xr200, it was a slightly different design and had a bit more pressure to it. after putting it in all the chain noise in my bike went away, it was like it was a sewing machine. it is also possible that the slides (one on each side of the chain running up and down in the motor) are very warn out... mine were not the greatest, i used the best from the two motors i had apart.
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:56 AM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G2mk3
while the bike is running you are supposed to loosen the big bolt (leaving the smaller one on top tight) while the engine is warm. now that i think about it hot would be even better...

the function of the big bolt is to tighten two collars (like ones on bar end mirrors) that when squeezed clamp a rod attached to the tensioner (to lock it in place). while the bike is running, you are in effect letting the tensioner move freely, so the spring will push it (up, as if it was going to pop out of the top of the motor), bending a long plastic slide that takes up the slack in the cam chain.

on MY bike, the spring was so old that it couldn't apply enough pressure to actually bend the slide, so when i first tried nothing changed. the spring was cheap at the local stealership, like 3 bucks. BUT you have to take off that side of the case and the flywheel, which doesn't exactly slide off. if you are crafty you can get it off using a bolt that threads into it, but you need to be careful not to wreck the crankshaft (you can put a bit of copper or some soft metal inbetween, AT YOUR OWN RISK or just buy the tool).

i hope i did a OK job explaining the situtation. i wouldn't be suprised if it was the same spring as on my xl185 and the xr200's. i bought a spring for a 2002 xr200, it was a slightly different design and had a bit more pressure to it. after putting it in all the chain noise in my bike went away, it was like it was a sewing machine. it is also possible that the slides (one on each side of the chain running up and down in the motor) are very warn out... mine were not the greatest, i used the best from the two motors i had apart.
Would you say it is possible to just screw the large bolt in all the way then take it out about 4 good turns. Run the bike like that for awhile and see if it has any effect on it at all. Maybe with a little bit of time it will start to come around. I could see how the internals there pop up and down with the top off. It just doens't seem like that spring is doing much of anything for it really.
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Old 12-11-2009, 12:07 PM   #238
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yeah, it might help to have it good and hot as it might make the plastic slide soften a little and bend easier. in my case the spring just couldn't do it. if you don't want to spend any money you could try taking it all apart and bending the spring... but it could fatigue and crack.


OOPS! sorry for leading you on a wild goose chase...
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G2mk3 screwed with this post 12-14-2009 at 01:42 PM
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Old 12-11-2009, 12:11 PM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G2mk3
yeah, it might help to have it good and hot as it might make the plastic slide soften a little and bend easier. in my case the spring just couldn't do it. if you don't want to spend any money you could try taking it all apart and bending the spring... but it could fatigue and crack.
I was going to fix the bike up for my Father in Law, but with as much time as I've spent on it to date. I'm really just getting over fixing it up for him.

Runs great starts up in one to 3 kicks, but has throttle lag when you gun it. Bike just boggs out and dies, you really have to ease into the throttle to go anywhere. Research I have done said it was the timing. I've been threw the carb about 12 times and everything seems to be doing well.

Just frustrating to have to pull the hole case off to replace a spring. Rather just sell the dam thing and call it even.
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Old 12-11-2009, 12:40 PM   #240
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If I am reading this correctly, you are fiddling with the Timing Chain adjustment, not the timing.

Timing is adjusted by removing the points cover (on the left hand side of the head, labelled "125") and loosening the two phillips screws that hold the timing plate. Timing is changed by rotating the points plate.

To do the job spot on, you need a timing light. There is a cover on the left crankcase, which exposes the flywheel when removed. The flywheel will have a couple of marks on it for timing, T for top dead center and F for the advanced point before TDC when the sparkplug should fire. On the XL125, the points should just start to open, or the timing light flash as the spot marked "F" passes a mark on the bottom of the opening. This assumes the bike will hold an idle while you adjust the plate appropriately.

You can guesstimate the timing by watching the points cam while manually turning the crank (open the bigger slotted cover to expose a bolt, 14MM on the TL, that you can use to turn the crank). The points should just start to open when the "F" shows up on the flywheel.

Of course a picture is worth a thousand words, but I don't own an XL, so I could only give you pictures of a TL, which is bit different beast.
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