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Old 05-03-2009, 07:19 PM   #91
DoubleBit
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Location: Applegate, Nor Cal
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Couple of things, got all the electrical working on the '78 xl175, close to being ready for legal road worthiness..

The '76 xl350 parts junker now has a freed up engine.. That vinegar stuff is incredible.. Took a couple of weeks and a few refills but it worked.. Now that I can rotate the engine I've found the shift lever shaft is busted.. What is it with these hondas and busted shafts? Anyway, I started to pull the LH engine cover off and have all the bolts out, popped loose but something is holding it on still.. Clutch actuation linkage? Oh, and how far in do you have to go into the engine to change the darn shift shaft?

Thanks y'all
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DoubleBit screwed with this post 05-05-2009 at 06:57 AM
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Old 05-03-2009, 11:21 PM   #92
Towhee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkpunch
There is an adjustment on the left side of the engine- should be behind a rubber plug above what kind of looks like a grease zerk on the side of the engine case. If adjusting it doesnt help, you may have a bigger problem. I have seen a couple of different XL's where water has gotten in the case where the clutch actuator goes in. The water sits in there forever and starts to eat away the magnesium until the whole actuator pops in and out of place. Only remedy then is a new engine sidecover.
Thanks! the adjustment helped. I had tried the adjustment pin before but this time gave it a bigger twist. guess that was all it needed.

Thanks again.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:07 AM   #93
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You know, the more I look at these two bikes and the condition they are in,, the further I lean toward using the best of the 350 on the 250. The 350 has just been too abused and has so many warning signs while 250 is the more original and less beat up of the two. Both are '76s, having high pipes exiting on the rh side, the tanks, seat, fenders, and side covers look about the same..
The forks on the 350 are longer and the specs show them to be stiffer. I am hoping the stock muffler (second half of the exhaust) from the 350 fits the 250 with a minimum of fuss (the 250s is badly rotten).
Aside from the motor, which I'm sure would produce better power someday, what other components on the 350 are superior and would enhance the 250?
Oh, and has anyone here used a Time-Sert to repair a crossthreaded spark plug port.. Or does anyone have a better idea on how to repair the port?
Thanks y'all.
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:22 AM   #94
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Keen-sert, hela coil, whatever, they all work good for repairing threads, spark plugs included.

You want to part with the 350 motor? Got a project that needs one...
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:29 AM   #95
DoubleBit
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Me being in Kali-forn-ya and you being where? Usualy shipping such heavy oily things is a pain.. And, I ain't so sure about gettin' rid of it.. I am contemplating tearing it down to see what the tweakers did to it, or if somehow the internals are undamaged by their abuse. Matter of fact, that's another good reason not to sell it, could be a pile o' junk..
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:49 AM   #96
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My plug fouls quickly

I recently bought a '73 XL175. It starts OK, but it would idle high without any choke. After a minute or 2 the idle would fall by itself to 1200, a bit bouncy on the RMP's. If it went below 1100, it would die. The carb was set very rich when I picked it up (3 turns out, manual says 3/4 to 1 1/2) and needed to stay rich to run. I had to clean the (new) plug often.

I replaced the coil/condenser but only with another used set - no difference. Voltage at the battery was/is close to 7V when running. I was getting around 100# compression so I changed the rings, now I get 125+#. The cylinder head and exhaust chamber of the valve cover needed a lot of cleaning.

I could then set the mixture @ 1 1/2 turns out but still had all the behaviors stated above. The plug still fouled quickly.

I went into the carb and discovered the slide had a ding on the lower edge that kept it from lowering all the way. The needle C-clip was set at the top-most position, lowering it to its maximum. After setting the needle C-clip to the second from the top notch (raising it to 'typical' per the manual) and filing the slide smooth it wouldn't idle even with the idle screw all the way in. I had to adjust the throttle cable to keep a pull on it. Setting the needle C-clip back to the top fixed that.

It'll now idle at 1200 with the idle screw maxed all the way in and mixture at 1 1/2 out. After about 10 minutes it'll REQUIRE a plug cleaning.

I have yet to clean/treat the rusty tank but it had an in-line fuel filter, now a new one.

I'm still thinking it's the carb but can't find a replacement. Ebay aftermarkets don't have the same fitment to the intake boot - cylindrical end fits into the intake boot and is hose-clamped.

This is the first bike I've ever done any disassembling on so I'm very new at this. Any suggestion is welcome. What do ya think?
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:51 AM   #97
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Sounds to me like you're suspicions about the carb are in the right direction. Keep looking for a correct carb. Or, can you get a new slide? Get your gas tank clean too. It's cheap and easy and then you can rule out future contamination of rust. There's a thread around here (search under old skool) for storing steel tanks. That'll explain it well enough.. Vinegar, it's my new favorite cleaner..
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Old 05-08-2009, 07:17 AM   #98
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Still workin' on the 76 xl250/350 parts swapping..
Took the good muffler off the 350 (rear half of the exhaust), fully expecting that I'd need to weld up some sort of collar to make it fit the 250s front section. Totaly unwarranted worries, it slid right over, clamped down and fits great. It weighs a ridiculous ton though, I can fully understand why folks chuck the stock exhaust for aftermarket, even if there were no power gain, the weight savings alone would be worth it. Oh, and checked the 250 for spark,, nice blue happy zappy ignition! Gotta get that heli-coil/time-sert thing done! She'll be thumpin' along the trails again in no time!
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:16 AM   #99
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I can't seem to find any carb parts for the XL175 right now. I though I used to see Keyster rebuild kits on Ebay all the time. I took it apart this weekend and noticed a small nick in the main jet intake (stock size). I'd just like to replace all the components. Anyone know who definately sells a kit?
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:53 PM   #100
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http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...1-1974/o/m9379

I don't know of anyone selling kits, looking at bike bandit/the above link I saw they have some of the carb's parts available. These lill' 175s are a bit challenging to find pieces for.

Good hunting.
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Old 05-11-2009, 09:30 PM   #101
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I got a rebuild kit off E Bay for my XL250 but it doesn't seem there is any for XL175s. For hard to get Honda parts you might try the following link:-

http://www.cmsnl.com/

Their prices seem to be quite rich but if you really need a part they might just have it.

Good luck.
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:58 AM   #102
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contact this place directly, they have helped me several times on antique bikes. If they dont have it listed , they can get it.

Sirius Consolidated from Canada

http://www.siriusconinc.com/default.asp

sci@siriusconinc.com

ebay : http://stores.ebay.com/siriusconincnosparts
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Old 05-12-2009, 09:39 AM   #103
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Anyone know where I might track down the left side cover for a 1977 XL75? I have looked at all the usual places, ebay, craigs list...

My only other option is to look for one for an XR75 and see if it fits.
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:06 PM   #104
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Well I wish I had waited and checked with your recommended sites for the full rebuild kit. I ordered the 2 jets and a gasket set from http://www.westernhillshondayamaha.com after they didn't have a complete carb or rebuild kit. I'll also do a thorough soaking as the needle set(?) is stuck in the carb body.

ruh roh - I recognize that handle from the BTK forum.
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:50 PM   #105
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You are correct sir! but you realize that everyone now thinks we are members of a forum for serial killers!
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