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Old 01-27-2009, 10:11 PM   #46
Pezz_gs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dolomiti
First, I am flaky.

I am not buying anything right away. I have work to do on the sidecar when it gets here and I will take some time to ponder the merits of each (except the HD). I am leaning towards the KLR at the moment because it meets a lot of my requirements.
Consider 650 twins too. Dont know about over that side of the Pacific but the R65 BMWs are pretty cheap here.
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Old 01-28-2009, 06:35 AM   #47
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So, since I think that I am not going to do a GS750, and I have purchased a Dnepr sidecar, how do I get a mod to change the title of this thread from "Suzuki GS750 Ural Clone" to "Dolomiti's Hack Build"

спасибо in advance.
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Old 01-28-2009, 06:44 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pezz_gs
Consider 650 twins too. Dont know about over that side of the Pacific but the R65 BMWs are pretty cheap here.
might as well get a Ural. Then at least the gearing would be right

The R65 makes a nice tight solo, but I don't like them as tugs. Ridden a couple and had an R65 in my Dnepr. Pretty much gutless. No advantage over a Ural or KLR rig.
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Old 01-28-2009, 08:41 AM   #49
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The XS650 Yamahas do pretty well and are still out there at decent prices. Google XS650. There are a lot of aftermartket parts avaiable also.

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Old 01-28-2009, 05:59 PM   #50
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My father-in-law has a GL1000 under a tarp on his carport. Has the clutch apart and has not road the thing in over 20 years. My wife remembers riding it with him as a child. I asked him for it and even offered a $500 dollars and he still won't part with it.

I guess if your 70 years old, work, get social security and a pension all at the same time it makes it hard to part with a bike you have not used in 20 years...

/rant


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Old 01-28-2009, 06:31 PM   #51
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The honda nighthawk 750 I have pulling my velorex might be worth considering. Shares a lot with the cb750 but still has good parts availability and the hydraulic valves make it about as close to maintenance free as you will get. I also find mine well behaved with the standard front end on it, no need for a leading link if its set up well. About 70hp as well so highway speeds are comfortable.
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Old 02-07-2009, 05:15 PM   #52
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I got my frame and sidecar (Dnepr) yesterday. The sidecar has some rust and I am going to do some cutting and patching with sheet metal. Also, I have a CJ rear lid that I want to install. I think it is time for me to buy some metal working tools.

Does anyone have experience with wire welders? I used an arc welder in shop class (about 15 years ago) but it seems that the wire welder may be easier to use. I have a grinder. Is that good enough for cutting, etc? For pieces of sheet metal, it seems like it would be the best option.
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Old 02-08-2009, 10:16 AM   #53
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Ok, so I have really started looking at the sidecar, and there is more rust than I thought, primarily along the floor. I am thinking of a complete floor removal. The portions that mount to the frame look like they are in good condition and I think that I can put some L bar along the edge of the sidecar between these two points and then sheet metal resting on top of it. Here are some pics.


















Again, I am essentially a complete beginner in terms of metal work. I have a pretty good handle on wood working, but other than some welding in HS, I am pretty uninformed. I am willing to spend about $500 for some decent equipment that will allow me to cut/grind/weld. I have an outlet in the garage for the dryer that is a 220/240 - 60amp (2 side by side 30amp breakers).


I also got a CJ rear lid in the deal. The curves are not a perfect match (and the lid is a little wider than the sidecar). I am wondering if I should just use the hardware from it and cut out the Dnepr and fashion a lid out of the cut-out. Hmmm.





I am kind of predisposed to just not do the lid as I am favoring putting a luggage rack above the spare tire mount and the weight on the hinges may exceed the convenience factor. I think I can just have the seat lean forward.
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Old 02-08-2009, 11:16 AM   #54
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Yeah, I suggest not doing the lid. Too easy to make a huge mess of it if you don't have the skills(I know I would make a mess of it). Although tipping the seat forward to access the trunk is annoying if you carry a regular passenger, the trunk is secure and a little more waterproof than the Ural style.


I am surprised to see that much difference in the dimension from the Chang trunk. I always assumed they were about the same.
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Old 02-08-2009, 11:23 AM   #55
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I wonder if it's not the Dnepr that's different from the Ural and Chang which are more alike. Possibly due to its military duties, the KMZ factory seems to have beefed up and gusseted a number of spots on the bike. I haven't taken a caliper to them, but the steel the fenders and sidecar itself are rolled from seem substantially thicker on a Dnepr. I could be wrong...

I installed household foam weatherstripping on my Ural chair and it's more or less waterproof now. Should have done it years ago, the inside of my trunk would look better than it does now
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Old 02-08-2009, 11:51 AM   #56
claude
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>>Does anyone have experience with wire welders? I used an arc welder in shop class (about 15 years ago) but it seems that the wire welder may be easier to use. I have a grinder. Is that good enough for cutting, etc? For pieces of sheet metal, it seems like it would be the best option.<<......

If you are planning to purchase a wire welder (MIG Welder) check out a Tractor Supply if you have one in your area and take a look at the Hobart Handler 140. It will do a decent job on thinner material and also on stuff up to or over 1/8" thickness. It runs on 110v so is very handly.
I used to make fun of the little 110 v welders years ago. Aftert having a welding business in Florida and dealing with all kinds of fabrication I finally had to eat my words. Today we use a 110v MIG quite a bit and it does very well.

dolomiti wrote:
>>I am thinking of a complete floor removal. The portions that mount to the frame look like they are in good condition and I think that I can put some L bar along the edge of the sidecar between these two points and then sheet metal resting on top of it.<<

If you can get the body sandblasted by someone who knows what they are doing that woudl be a plus. If not you can clean the bad areas with a wire brush and or a flapper wheel on your grinder but be careful. You may find the metal is not as bad as it looks right now...or maybe it is worse :-(.
A grinder with a thin cutoff wheel will work good for cutting the metal. You will go through a few wheels but they are not that expensive. Again, be carefull and wear eye protection and gloves. Ear plugs are also a good idea....trust me. (I don't always practice what I preach and have the scars to prove it...huh?)
Another though would be to leave the existing floor in place and sheet over or under it.
Another thought would be to leave the exisiting floor in place and bolt sheet metal or aluminum under it and then run angle along each side bolting it all together.
You could also cover the sides partially with thin aluminum bolting it around the perimeter about 1" on center. That may look pretty cool with the original body being painted a contrasting color. See pic below

Just some food for thought.
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claude screwed with this post 02-08-2009 at 12:03 PM
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:04 AM   #57
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Thanks for the info. I guess I need to go shopping for a welder.

I am thinking that a rear KLR650 wheel maybe a better option for sidecar than the Dnepr wheel. If I can get it to work, I guess I would need two 650 rear wheels (one as a spare). This would give me a spare that would work on either the rear of the motorcycle or on the sidecar.
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:34 AM   #58
claude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dolomiti
Thanks for the info. I guess I need to go shopping for a welder.

I am thinking that a rear KLR650 wheel maybe a better option for sidecar than the Dnepr wheel. If I can get it to work, I guess I would need two 650 rear wheels (one as a spare). This would give me a spare that would work on either the rear of the motorcycle or on the sidecar.
I beleive you are thinking right. The Dnepr wheels do not have the best reputation on the world that's for sure.
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Old 02-17-2009, 06:40 AM   #59
dolomiti OP
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Does anyone have experience/advice for fitting a non-Dnepr wheel (of for Ural/CJ, non standard wheels) on the Dnepr hack? I am thinking a rear KLR650 wheel.
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Old 02-17-2009, 06:53 AM   #60
RedMenace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dolomiti
Does anyone have experience/advice for fitting a non-Dnepr wheel (of for Ural/CJ, non standard wheels) on the Dnepr hack? I am thinking a rear KLR650 wheel.
I believe I used a front BMW wheel, probably /5 on my Dnepr, but memory fails me...

Usually a front wheel is a better fit because of the width of the hub, providing the axle is the same diameter or near enuf a bearing swap to match can be done. If you have a cycle salvage near you, take the rig and a jack there and try swapping wheels until you find one you like...
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