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Old 02-12-2009, 02:12 PM   #31
tedder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Countdown
Most electronics will shut down on under voltage, fail on over voltage.
I thought they just worked faster

I would've thought they'd use a DC-DC or at least a simple three-leg voltage regulator in these things.
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Old 02-12-2009, 02:41 PM   #32
mmonroe
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I have only used the lithiums in mine with no problems. Lithiums are lighter and perform excellent in very cold weather - two critical factors if you hike in the mountains like I do. I also use mine on the bike(s).

I usually get around 25-35 hours in my 60csx with lithiums. I always keep a backup set of batteries and just swap them out when the ones in the unit expire. I would say that the lithiums probably last about twice as long as the others.
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Old 02-12-2009, 02:54 PM   #33
Hipster
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I was wondering why you had to select which type of battery your using.
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Old 02-12-2009, 02:58 PM   #34
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hipster
I was wondering why you had to select which type of battery your using.
The battery indicator uses the voltage drop as the battery ages as a way to infer capacity. The capacity vs. voltage drop curves are different for alakaline vs. NiMH types. (Don't know anything about lithium, but I'd guess it behaves more like NiHM than alkaline.)

Selecting the right battery type is not required but makes the indicator more accurate.

- Mark
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Old 02-12-2009, 03:15 PM   #35
Butters
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While lithium batteries last longer than alkaline, their voltage drops off extremely fast. For instance, if you use regular batteries in a flashlight you generally can tell when you need new batteries as the light gradually dims. I'll pull a number out of my ***, but lets say an alkaline battery loses a volt per hour. So after about two hours the voltage drops to below a useable level (the light dims and eventually goes out).

With lithiums, when they lose their charge, it is more like one volt every 5 minutes - so it quickly falls below a useable level. We use a lot of high power flashlights and it will be working fine and then suddenly nothing. No predicting - just need to have extra batteries.

NiMH may be similar, but I think they lose power more similar to alkaline (at least if my son's Thomas the Tank engine toys are any scientifc measure). I wonder if garmin took out the Lithium setting because there was no real good way to indicate lithium battery life based upon useage. Most Li battery calculators I have seen use mathematical formulas to estimate battery life, rather than voltage drop.

That being said, I use lithiums in my 60csx and have had no problems. I don't know how long they last, but 25 hours seems about right. I also haven't had issues with mine losing power. however, I haven't taken it on any real nasty dirt trails.
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Old 02-12-2009, 03:16 PM   #36
tn-steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy2020
looks like it runs on 2 AAA's. How many hours can you typically get out of a set. I have an old etrex and battery life is more like 6 hours (ie..dies during a long day).
I'm headed down to ride in Costa Rica and seems like the 60csx is going to be my companion and I don't plan to hardwire.

Thanks Jim
60scx, NiMH 2500mAh rechargeable batteries, 12 hours plus. Could be much more than 12, but that's the longest I've run it without recharging or replacing the batteries.

Add me to the list who've never had it drop out while hardwired with the batteries installed

Add me to the list who've had it escape from the RAM cradle 3 times while riding dirt.

Add me to the list who've upgraded to the Touratech locking mount.
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Old 02-13-2009, 07:37 AM   #37
GodSilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tn-steve
60scx, NiMH 2500mAh rechargeable batteries, 12 hours plus. Could be much more than 12, but that's the longest I've run it without recharging or replacing the batteries.

Add me to the list who've never had it drop out while hardwired with the batteries installed

Add me to the list who've had it escape from the RAM cradle 3 times while riding dirt.

Add me to the list who've upgraded to the Touratech locking mount.
The Touratech locking mount is BITCHIN'. I love mine, it's the only thing from TT that isn't grossly overpriced, and it just works.
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Old 02-13-2009, 11:15 AM   #38
tbirdsp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GodSilla
The Touratech locking mount is BITCHIN'. I love mine, it's the only thing from TT that isn't grossly overpriced, and it just works.

I have one, but $151 US is pretty damn overpriced IMHO...

I got the Touratech for my KLR after I lost my first 60Cx out of a RAM mount. At the time I didn't know why, but I now think the front brake line of my TE250 hooked it and pulled it out of the mount.
I don't think I'd fork out the $$$ for the Touratech again. It *is* nice though.
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Old 02-14-2009, 07:00 AM   #39
Global Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Countdown
Most electronics will shut down on under voltage, fail on over voltage.

Overvoltage is tough design problem, very hard to shut down fast enough. It requires a sensor out front then a filter slow enough to give you enough time to shut off before overvoltage gets to elecronics. Never find that on consumer elecronics.
Well in this case, we're not talking about high voltage spikes or surges containing a lot of energy.
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Old 02-17-2009, 06:18 PM   #40
GodSilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirdsp

I have one, but $151 US is pretty damn overpriced IMHO...

I got the Touratech for my KLR after I lost my first 60Cx out of a RAM mount. At the time I didn't know why, but I now think the front brake line of my TE250 hooked it and pulled it out of the mount.
I don't think I'd fork out the $$$ for the Touratech again. It *is* nice though.
Wow, that's a LOT more than we pay here in Arsetrailer. That's the equivalent of $235 in our dollars. Mine was around $170 in AUS$ (south pacific pesos )
which works out to $108 US$. I think there is some profiteering going on somewhere.
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Old 02-18-2009, 12:49 PM   #41
Global Rider
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Originally Posted by GodSilla
I think there is some profiteering going on somewhere.
Then this should make you feel good...

You know those mega dollar over priced Nikes that people buy...they cost $2.50 to make a few years ago, and not much more today.

Actually, since it costs US$94 at Touratech in Germany, you are getting a good deal at US$108. Seems the Aussies are less greedy than the Americans and far less greedy than Canadians.
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Global Rider screwed with this post 02-18-2009 at 02:47 PM
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Old 02-18-2009, 02:33 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GodSilla
Wow, that's a LOT more than we pay here in Arsetrailer. That's the equivalent of $235 in our dollars. Mine was around $170 in AUS$ (south pacific pesos )
which works out to $108 US$. I think there is some profiteering going on somewhere.
http://www.touratech-usa.com/shop/sh...0855LHv1E23FBF

$145.90 US from Cycoactive
http://www.cycoactive.com/gps/tt60.html
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Old 02-18-2009, 04:38 PM   #43
Frank Warner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Global Rider
Seems the Aussies are less greedy than the Americans and far less greedy than Canadians.
Ummm... according to some ... Ozies have a reputation as being skin flints .. much worse than Scotts ... according to some ... So if you consider this, it just may be that Ozies won't buy them at a larger price.
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Old 02-18-2009, 10:37 PM   #44
GodSilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Warner
Ummm... according to some ... Ozies have a reputation as being skin flints .. much worse than Scotts ... according to some ... So if you consider this, it just may be that Ozies won't buy them at a larger price.
Hrmph. Not wasting any words on you mate......

Actually it could be the recent price rises accounting for the differences. Since our dollar tanked late last year against the greenback, everything imported has gone up.
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