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Old 02-03-2009, 06:04 PM   #1
geoffm OP
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What have I done?

The 78 Goldwing with 22k miles, vetter all around and a hack has just been won on ebay by me! What have I gotten myself into?First thing after Haulbikes gets here in a few weeks is sticking some squared off tires on it. The car isn't attached right now. Can anyone point me in the right direction for instructions how to set it up?
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Old 02-04-2009, 07:12 PM   #2
TouringDave
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Geoffm, way to go!!!!

I've got an 80 GL1100 with a DJP (Australian) single chair

Any pics available?
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:52 PM   #3
LCGarage
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link to ebay

Looks great, congratulations!
This should be the link to completed ebay sale here (for pics):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1978-Honda-Goldwing-with-Friendship-sidecar-BMW-GL-1000_W0QQitemZ290291924728QQihZ019QQcategoryZ50002 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:09 PM   #4
geoffm OP
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That's it! I can hardly wait!!
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:30 PM   #5
scottro
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Looks nice & the price is nice too! Congrats!
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:30 PM   #6
tangozipper
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Jay at Dauntless is the guy who can set you up with anything and everything for hacks.

http://www.dauntlessmotors.com/
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:08 AM   #7
sidecarkeith
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I think you've started a new chapter in your biking life.
One that's nothing like anyother type of riding, a new adventure.
Which I hope you'll enjoy in the future.

Keith
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Old 02-05-2009, 06:29 AM   #8
RedMenace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffm
...The car isn't attached right now. Can anyone point me in the right direction for instructions how to set it up?
Some good informational resources are here:
http://www.sidecar.com/links3.asp

This is how I go about attaching & aligning a sidecar:


Setting Up the Sidecar - Alignment from Adventure Sidecar on Vimeo.
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Old 02-10-2009, 09:25 PM   #9
Beet
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[quote=RedMenace]Some good informational resources are here:
http://www.sidecar.com/links3.asp

This is how I go about attaching & aligning a sidecar:






Hi Redmenace,


i watched your shots of set up but i would not be happy. How come u didnt use higher blocks (to measure from centre of wheel/rim) to give a more acurate guide, also use stiffer straights for much more acuratcy. The problem i see is the diff. size tyres would give faulse measurements. All the best Beet
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Old 02-10-2009, 09:59 PM   #10
tony the tiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beet
...
Hi Redmenace,

i watched your shots of set up but i would not be happy. How come u didnt use higher blocks (to measure from centre of wheel/rim) to give a more acurate guide, also use stiffer straights for much more acuratcy. The problem i see is the diff. size tyres would give faulse measurements. All the best Beet
Yu shood driv one - the yhandl like de shiznitz!
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Old 02-11-2009, 07:10 AM   #11
RedMenace
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Hi Beet,
I will try to address the issues you've raised:

The blocks were as high as could be used on the bike without interference with other parts. The sidecar straight edge was set up to match.

The angle iron used is straight and has no flex in this application. I recheck my measurements and they are reproduceable which would indicate there is not a problem.

The measurements are taken off the rear wheel, the front tire size is irelevent as long as it is pointed straight and no wider than the rear. The rear tire needs to be properly aligned in the swingarm as well.

The real trick with knobs is to place the straight edge and the wheel in such a way that the knobs don't kick it out of line. Other than that, this works fine for me.

There are certainly other methods, some of which may be more accurate. This is how I do it and it seems to work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beet
Hi Redmenace,


i watched your shots of set up but i would not be happy. How come u didnt use higher blocks (to measure from centre of wheel/rim) to give a more acurate guide, also use stiffer straights for much more acuratcy. The problem i see is the diff. size tyres would give faulse measurements. All the best Beet
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Old 02-11-2009, 08:31 AM   #12
claude
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Redmenace wrote:
The blocks were as high as could be used on the bike without interference with other parts. The sidecar straight edge was set up to match.

The angle iron used is straight and has no flex in this application. I recheck my measurements and they are reproduceable which would indicate there is not a problem.

The measurements are taken off the rear wheel, the front tire size is irelevent as long as it is pointed straight and no wider than the rear. The rear tire needs to be properly aligned in the swingarm as well.

The real trick with knobs is to place the straight edge and the wheel in such a way that the knobs don't kick it out of line. Other than that, this works fine for me.

There are certainly other methods, some of which may be more accurate. This is how I do it and it seems to work.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The proof of a decent setup is that the rig tracks well and does not eat tires.

One trick that is a good one is to get all tires positioned so the valve stems are down before setting up a rig. Or, at least mark the wheels in some fashion so the position of ithem can be duplicated if the setup is adjusted and remeasured. The reason for this is to get some consitant repeatable figures. Wheels can be out of round as can the surfaces of the tires the straight edges are placed against.
Heck on some rigs if you don't like the toe in measurements all you have to do is rotate the sidecar wheel and remeasure the toe in until you are satisfied.
Get it?
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Old 02-11-2009, 08:42 AM   #13
RedMenace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claude

The proof of a decent setup is that the rig tracks well and does not eat tires.

One trick that is a good one is to get all tires positioned so the valve stems are down before setting up a rig. ...
Yup!

Another reason one persons numbers won't work on another's rig.

No matter how you take your measurements, do them the same each time or they really aren't very helpful.

These are references you use to tune your rig. Once you have it set up and you know you don't have toe out, you are just nudging it to where it works best for you. Handling and tire wear tell you if you have it right.

You recheck your numbers to be sure you haven't moved things way out of spec and to evaluate which way you need to nudge it. Remember adjusting leanout can change toe-in and adjusting toe-in can change leanout. The eye can be fooled. So can the memory-write it down!
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:25 PM   #14
claude
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Vernon wrote:
>>>The eye can be fooled. So can the memory-write it down!<<

Yes, and I am so guilty on my own rigs of not doing that
Do initial setup using figures that are in the ballpark.............toe in 3/4" or less, some lean out etc. Then go out and run the thing on the roads or combination of roads you normally woudl run on. If it pulls lean the bike away from the pull....then recheck the toe in. Once you find out how much if any toe in change you have when the bike is leaned in or out you will be ahead of the game.
Dunno about others who have been in this for a while but to be candid I have no idea what my settings are on my own rig half the time. After initial setup and getting used to what does what things get tweaked to get it better and better until it feels good and does not wear tires out. At that point I should recheck everything and record it but many times don't. My bad.
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:25 PM   #15
eastbloc
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I got lazy when setting up my rig and didn't have appropriate length blocks and so I used eyeballs and test drives to get it 'right'.

I recently decided to do some more scientific checking and found that my toe-in is .5".

What's important as Claude said is that the tires seem to last and the rig handles great
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