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Old 07-13-2009, 07:10 AM   #121
LukasM
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Let me congratulate you on the impressive size your cojones must have Señor Joe. I love the angle grinder as much as the next guy but mine hasn't cut off anything structural yet.

Are you planning on hauling around any luggage? I would guess that the DRZ frame should be reinforced for that, albeit being aluminum it will still be much lighter.

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Old 07-13-2009, 01:36 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM
Let me congratulate you on the impressive size your cojones must have Señor Joe. I love the angle grinder as much as the next guy but mine hasn't cut off anything structural yet.

Are you planning on hauling around any luggage? I would guess that the DRZ frame should be reinforced for that, albeit being aluminum it will still be much lighter.

I will be using it to haul luggage. The drz boys don't seem to have any problem carrying stuff on the back but yes i will still add some reinforcing.

It all looked so easy in my head but now that its on the bike it is going to be a fair bit of work making neat and strong mounting points on the frame.

I haven't welded steel for a long time so i hope i haven't forgotten how to do it.
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Old 07-14-2009, 12:40 PM   #123
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holy crap!

you got balls mate! Would never think of doing something like that! Question... Why not use the drz complete frame with trips shocks and all and build the 650 motor into that? Sure that would still be a challenge and be a kick ass build? Silly question. Sorry. I'll shut up now. Show us more! Loving it!
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Old 07-15-2009, 01:33 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylandr
you got balls mate! Would never think of doing something like that! Question... Why not use the drz complete frame with trips shocks and all and build the 650 motor into that? Sure that would still be a challenge and be a kick ass build? Silly question. Sorry. I'll shut up now. Show us more! Loving it!

That's a very good question and I'm not very sure how to answer it.

I'm just going with the flow I never intended to use drz plastics but someone told me they might fit but they didn't even come close so that's what made me think of using the drz subframe.

I'm sure the 650 motor would be harder to fit to the drz than fitting the odd drz part to the dr.(well thats my excuse)
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Old 07-15-2009, 02:37 AM   #125
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Laugh

good excuse... glued in place... waiting for your every move!
I really dig this thread! Don't stop!

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Old 07-15-2009, 03:16 AM   #126
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good excuse... glued in place... waiting for your every move!
I really dig this thread! Don't stop!


I'll try not to let you down.
more updates at the weekend.
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Old 07-15-2009, 04:03 AM   #127
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FARk YEAH! That chop was hardcore! Lovin it!

... and i thought the wire brush was the beez neez!
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Old 07-19-2009, 03:51 AM   #128
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I forgot to get the metal to make the subframe mounts so i didn't really get much done this weekend.

I did manage to cut off what was left of the old subframe and give the area a clean up.

Here's some pics.

Did you ever do something and then regret doing it.


There's not a lot of meat there.


There is a little bit reinforcing on the inside. There is a small amount of surface rust on the inside of the frame.


The top frame sections have a fair bit of rust in them not bad seeing as the frame is 12 years old.



I got the head and barrel back from the machine shop yesterday.
They skimmed 1mm (I told him 0.8 but he forgot) off the head and a tiny bit of the barrel they also did a three angle valve job and bead blasted both the barrel and head.

Very clean


A before and after.


I was thinking of painting the engine black. what do you think of that idea would it look good or bad?

That's all for now folks.
Maybe if your good girls and boys i'll do some more work during the week and post some pics.
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Old 07-19-2009, 04:04 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe
what about what about squish?
Sorry i forgot about this until i just read your update.

Squish or squish clearance is the measurement from the outer band of the piston to the cylinder head at TDC.
It is generally way over 1mm on stock engines,reducing it to around 1mm,maybe 0.9mm with a titanium con rod will improve general performance.
It is normally done by measuring with compressible media (hollow solder / blue tack etc) at TDC then as needed removing material off the base of the cylinder using a lathe face plate and mandrel.
I see your shop machined your cylinder that will change the squish clearance but by how much ?
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Old 07-19-2009, 04:25 AM   #130
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Cheers for the explanation mate but I'm afraid that it went strieght over my head though.

They took 0.1mm of the barrel.
I was planning on fine tuning the compression ratio using different thickness base gaskets. Would this be still ok to do or is it better to change the head gasket thickness?

Thanks

Joe

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8
Sorry i forgot about this until i just read your update.

Squish or squish clearance is the measurement from the outer band of the piston to the cylinder head at TDC.
It is generally way over 1mm on stock engines,reducing it to around 1mm,maybe 0.9mm with a titanium con rod will improve general performance.
It is normally done by measuring with compressible media (hollow solder / blue tack etc) at TDC then as needed removing material off the base of the cylinder using a lathe face plate and mandrel.
I see your shop machined your cylinder that will change the squish clearance but by how much ?
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Old 07-19-2009, 05:04 AM   #131
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Joe I'd be a bit worried that they have taken off so much metal. When I had performance work done to my engine they didn't skim the head or barrel but took one layer out of the head gasket to make the squish clearance better. I was told if 2 out of the 3 layers were taken out I would end up having problems with clearance. Now this would differ with every engine so doing a dry run to check piston to head clearance is going to be adviseable. Mandatory if your running a high comp piston.
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Old 07-20-2009, 12:40 AM   #132
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She'll be right mate.

The clearances should still be ok but I will fit it all together and then check the clearances. I will alter them with thicker gaskets if needed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan J
Joe I'd be a bit worried that they have taken off so much metal. When I had performance work done to my engine they didn't skim the head or barrel but took one layer out of the head gasket to make the squish clearance better. I was told if 2 out of the 3 layers were taken out I would end up having problems with clearance. Now this would differ with every engine so doing a dry run to check piston to head clearance is going to be adviseable. Mandatory if your running a high comp piston.
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Old 07-20-2009, 12:51 AM   #133
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Hi mate
Its all looking very shmick and pro. I could see a new job in custom DR's . Hows the faring coming along.
Cheers chris.
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Old 07-20-2009, 01:24 AM   #134
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Hi mate
Its all looking very shmick and pro. I could see a new job in custom DR's . Hows the faring coming along.
Cheers chris.
"Shmick and pro" you have got to be kidding.

I'm taking the easy way out with the fairing and getting it from CPW in WA.
so all i have to do is alter the sides to fit. its been ordered so its just a mater of time.
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Old 07-20-2009, 01:29 AM   #135
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Originally Posted by ozimick
Hi Joe,
Well I have just wandered in here for the first time and I might add the project is coming along swimmingly Hopefully will catch you later this week with a fairing

Mick
I better tidy the work shop then.
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