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Old 10-29-2009, 04:50 PM   #556
fleshpiston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilNinjaDog

Bottom line, what do I need to do to my '95 before it sits for two to three months this winter?

Are the 4th gen bikes susceptible to gumming up as easily or should I just throw some stabilizer in the fuel, run it for a bit and forget it?

If not, what's the best way to drain all four carbs, and what keeps them from filling up again if there is no petcock?


There's a petcock under the tank, you can lift the back of the tank just enough to turn it off.


I don't think the carbs are more susceptible to gumming, just more of a pain to get off the bike when they do. (compared to an inline)


Best way to drain the carbs is to use the drain screws at the bottom of the carbs You'll see them when you pull the side panels, right side is a bit harder with the coolant plumbing in the way.




here's what works for me for 5 months of storage...


- fill tank, add Stabil (about 2 oz for the 4th gen) Important to have a full
tank if the bike will be subject to condensation

- run bike and change oil


- drain carb bowls


- pull battery and keep on tender


- in the spring I run a little Sea Foam in the first tank of fresh gas





Bottom line IMO? For 2-3 months storage you should be fine with "just throwing some stabilizer in the fuel, run it for a bit and forget it"
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:16 PM   #557
LuciferMutt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleshpiston
There's a petcock under the tank, you can lift the back of the tank just enough to turn it off.


I don't think the carbs are more susceptible to gumming, just more of a pain to get off the bike when they do. (compared to an inline)


Best way to drain the carbs is to use the drain screws at the bottom of the carbs You'll see them when you pull the side panels, right side is a bit harder with the coolant plumbing in the way.




here's what works for me for 5 months of storage...


- fill tank, add Stabil (about 2 oz for the 4th gen) Important to have a full
tank if the bike will be subject to condensation

- run bike and change oil


- drain carb bowls


- pull battery and keep on tender


- in the spring I run a little Sea Foam in the first tank of fresh gas





Bottom line IMO? For 2-3 months storage you should be fine with "just throwing some stabilizer in the fuel, run it for a bit and forget it"
Most excellent, thank you
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:20 PM   #558
hpsVFR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilNinjaDog
I've tried asking this on the VFRD forums but they are being exceedingly vague over there.


Bottom line, what do I need to do to my '95 before it sits for two to three months this winter?

My Ninja will gum up the carbs and not run right if it sits longer than 3 weeks without me draining them (even with fuel stabilizer). Probably due to the tiny carbs on that thing. Fortunately, they are incredibly easy to drain and you don't have to remove anything to do it -- takes 5 minutes.

Are the 4th gen bikes susceptible to gumming up as easily or should I just throw some stabilizer in the fuel, run it for a bit and forget it?

If not, what's the best way to drain all four carbs, and what keeps them from filling up again if there is no petcock?
heh. I thought about answering there, but now I see it here...

IMO:

1. With an empty, or nearly empty tank (so, after a long ride), remove tank and shut off fuel petcock. Tank removal is not necessary, but it makes it easier to...
2. take some steel wool and put it in your airbox intake. This step is optional if your storage space is rodent-proof.
3. With the tank back on the bike, add stabilizer and fill tank full. You really, really don't want to be dicking around with a full fuel tank. Trust me on this.
4. drain carburetors. I shoved a big wad of rags under there to catch the gas. I suppose a tuna/mandarin orange can might work too. Don't let gas get all over your engine.
5. pull battery if you won't have it on a tender
6. put some steel wool in the exhaust. I put a couple pads inside a plastic bag and then shoved that into the pipe to make removal easier.

When you get the bike out of storage, reverse all these steps, and also:
a) flush and bleed your brakes and clutch
b) change oil and filter (if you didn't do so before storage; I don't usually store the bike long enough to make it worth changing oil before storage)
c) check and lube chain
d) do a TCLOCS and ride the sucker.

fwiw, Honda recommends draining the carb bowls if you will store the bike longer than 4 weeks. They don't say anything about fuel stabilizers.
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:31 PM   #559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpsVFR
heh. I thought about answering there, but now I see it here...

IMO:

1. With an empty, or nearly empty tank (so, after a long ride), remove tank and shut off fuel petcock. Tank removal is not necessary, but it makes it easier to...
2. take some steel wool and put it in your airbox intake. This step is optional if your storage space is rodent-proof.
3. With the tank back on the bike, add stabilizer and fill tank full. You really, really don't want to be dicking around with a full fuel tank. Trust me on this.
4. drain carburetors. I shoved a big wad of rags under there to catch the gas. I suppose a tuna/mandarin orange can might work too. Don't let gas get all over your engine.
5. pull battery if you won't have it on a tender
6. put some steel wool in the exhaust. I put a couple pads inside a plastic bag and then shoved that into the pipe to make removal easier.

When you get the bike out of storage, reverse all these steps, and also:
a) flush and bleed your brakes and clutch
b) change oil and filter (if you didn't do so before storage; I don't usually store the bike long enough to make it worth changing oil before storage)
c) check and lube chain
d) do a TCLOCS and ride the sucker.

fwiw, Honda recommends draining the carb bowls if you will store the bike longer than 4 weeks. They don't say anything about fuel stabilizers.
Thanks d00d. So the only thing that needs to come off to drain the carbs are the side "mid fairings?" What about the rear tailpiece fairing?

My issue is that I have had both side panels off before doing other maintenance and quickly searched for the carb drain screws but couldn't see much and didn't pursue it further at the time.
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Old 10-29-2009, 06:07 PM   #560
fleshpiston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilNinjaDog
So the only thing that needs to come off to drain the carbs are the side "mid fairings?" What about the rear tailpiece fairing?

Correct... just mid fairings need to be removed. Right side is a little tricky with the coolant hoses in the way.

Now that I think of it the left side might be obscured too if you still have the "PAIR" (emissions) plumbing installed .... flashlight and long screwdriver will be your friends
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Old 10-29-2009, 06:14 PM   #561
LuciferMutt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleshpiston

Now that I think of it the left side might be obscured too if you still have the "PAIR" (emissions) plumbing installed
Is this something I can rip out?
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Old 10-29-2009, 07:03 PM   #562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilNinjaDog
Is this something I can rip out?
Why yes, yes it is......

You'll see zero hp gains, but shed a whole pound or two in the process

it does clean things up a bit though











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Old 10-29-2009, 07:29 PM   #563
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Ya know what strikes me looking at that pile?

Quality.

Seriously. Formed hoses, mandrel bent tubes with nipples, nice plating.

VFRs have great quality. I have three KTMs and a Beemer and the VFR has the best attention to detail of any of them.
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:15 PM   #564
fleshpiston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy_J
Ya know what strikes me looking at that pile?

Quality.

Seriously. Formed hoses, mandrel bent tubes with nipples, nice plating.

VFRs have great quality. I have three KTMs and a Beemer and the VFR has the best attention to detail of any of them.



Looking at your avatar I'm surprised you didn't mention the gear driven cams!

I agree on the quality though....4th and 5th gen may have been a sweet spot in the VFR range? Especially for a Luddite like me?
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:08 PM   #565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleshpiston
Why yes, yes it is......

You'll see zero hp gains, but shed a whole pound or two in the process

it does clean things up a bit though











Mystery Solved! I wondered what the bracket at the 2 o'clock position in your photo was for.
I removed the PAIR plumbing a long time ago in a galaxy far far away, but I left that bracket in place cause I didn't want to dick with the engine mounting bolt at the time.
Last winter I installed a nautilus air horn, finding a place it would fit and could be mounted proved a challenge. I ended up bending the aforementioned bracket under the frame tube and the horn mounted to it perfectly. I just couldn't figure out what the bracket was doing there in the first place.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:17 PM   #566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilNinjaDog
Is this something I can rip out?
Easy enough to remove the various pieces, you do need to fashion some sort of plat to block off the ports to the exhaust (after removal, I cut the tubing away from the mounting brackets, cut a few pieces of aluminum flashing using the existing gaskets as a pattern, and bolted the brackets and flashing back in place. I used three or four layers for each header.)
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:22 PM   #567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trav72
All these VFR's look like they barely get out of the garage. Here's mine...a little dirty and well ridden.
Dirty Hell! I can still tell that it's a white one!
With over 145,000 miles on my '96 at the moment, I object to your use of the word "All..."

Cheers,
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:49 AM   #568
LuciferMutt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleshpiston
Why yes, yes it is......

You'll see zero hp gains, but shed a whole pound or two in the process

it does clean things up a bit though











Jebus! Is there a walkthrough somewhere that can guide me in the process of removing that stuff from a gen 4? What does it all DO?!! Does removing it alter the engine's performance at all (not HP but introduce flat spots, cause rough idle/hard starting/worse economy/etc)

And I agree about the quality. Doing some work on this bike you are immediately struck with the attention to detail and just good engineering. It wasn't rushed and everything is well laid-out and designed. Just a nice piece of machinery to get your hands on. My bike is now nearly 15 years old and every tube connection looks good, the rubber hoses are still soft and pliable, and there is not a drop of oil on the bottom of the engine or trans.
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LuciferMutt screwed with this post 10-30-2009 at 05:55 AM
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:12 AM   #569
fleshpiston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trav72
All these VFR's look like they barely get out of the garage. Here's mine...a little dirty and well ridden.










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Old 10-30-2009, 06:44 AM   #570
Rad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trav72
All these VFR's look like they barely get out of the garage. Here's mine...a little dirty and well ridden.
Some of us not only ride ours every day, 45,000 miles on mine; we also clean them.......Radical concept
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