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Old 01-15-2010, 06:34 AM   #181
DCopp
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gorgeous...what part of MI again? I'm in Bay City.
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Old 01-15-2010, 06:39 AM   #182
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Originally Posted by DCopp
gorgeous...what part of MI again? I'm in Bay City.
West side, Muskegon
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Old 01-15-2010, 10:31 AM   #183
drhach
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So, ya gonna have her running by this spring? It looks like it's moving pretty quickly now.
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Old 01-15-2010, 11:12 AM   #184
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I really kinda doubt it. I have a few more big ticket items to buy and my $$ reserves are dwindling. Still need carbs, head back from shop, ignition, clutch, get cylinder striped painted and bored.... and buy a small shitpile of misc parts to make it move stop and shift.

But ya never know. If I lean really heavy on my Visa.......stranger things have happened.
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Old 01-15-2010, 12:08 PM   #185
shovelmike
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Nice

Very good job so far. I would never have believed it seeing the neglected state it was in. Keep up the good work.
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Old 01-15-2010, 12:58 PM   #186
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Great stuff - relly enjoying this build (even if it is a bit slow )

As for the Boyer PowerBox - My trumpet starts up first kick most times

Its a good bit of kit, but I must admit I now have a small 12v dry cell battery fitted to help it out (and the lights) which was only 12 from one of those cheapo electronic stores.
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Old 01-15-2010, 01:33 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pigford
Great stuff - relly enjoying this build (even if it is a bit slow )

As for the Boyer PowerBox - My trumpet starts up first kick most times

Its a good bit of kit, but I must admit I now have a small 12v dry cell battery fitted to help it out (and the lights) which was only 12 from one of those cheapo electronic stores.
Ya know just last night I was thinking about a small battery instead of the power box. They are coming out with some nice compact batterys now. There is one that is being marketed for dirtbikes that comes to mind. It dosnt need a lot of power. Just a little spark to get it lit up and the stator takes over from there.

Hey on another note. Does anyone know of a diff top clamp setup that dosnt have the bar risers coming off the back edge of the tripple clamp. I really REALLY dont like the looks of that and would love a more conventional setup (with bar risers that come from the middle of the tripple clamp)

But I want to keep the forks and front end. Where does that leave me? Is there a clamp of a diff model/year that will get me there? Ive been hawkin ebay for a clue to diff top clamps but aint found much.
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Old 01-15-2010, 02:10 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YZman
I really kinda doubt it. I have a few more big ticket items to buy and my $$ reserves are dwindling. Still need carbs, head back from shop, ignition, clutch, get cylinder striped painted and bored.... and buy a small shitpile of misc parts to make it move stop and shift.

But ya never know. If I lean really heavy on my Visa.......stranger things have happened.
Better to take your time and do it right. You'll be glad you did. Otherwise, you just spend your time redoing the things that you didn't have time to do right the first time.
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Old 01-15-2010, 03:12 PM   #189
hoggjaww
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YZman
My buddy down the road helped me with a lot of welding. He is a magician with a TIG welder.

In 3 hours we got the rear welded on, oil tank and seat mounted.



Great job, thanks for posting this build.

When looking at the photos of the other bikes that were/are used for inspiration, the triangular brace where the lower hard tail attaches to the original frame has been omitted on your build. Is there any reason? Did you just deem it unnecessary?

Harry
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Old 01-16-2010, 07:48 AM   #190
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Interesting you cought that. I have been him/hawing that one as well. There is no brace that comes with the riged kit. Any of the ones that are on others were made themselves.

I have thought about a brace there. Especialy on the side with the brake mount (yes it is unfinished in those picts) That way I could tie the brake mount in with the gusset.

My welder who builds 1300cc nitro burning hill climbers dosnt think I need one there. Me I tend to err on the side of caution. Maybe Ill fab up a few cardboard templates to see.

My rear fender came in yesterday. I have the cylinder and the 500 head sitting on the motor for mockup purposes. I put the exhaust on and have some clearance issues. Its looking like a custom exhaust is going to happpen. Ill try and get some more picts up soon. Lots of stuff been happening.
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Old 01-16-2010, 08:27 AM   #191
Bloodweiser
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you're doing one hell of a job.
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:10 AM   #192
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Best thread ever.
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:21 AM   #193
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Best thread ever.
Wow thanks

So here us another update. As I was saying parts have been showing up reguarly.

Where to start. I got new 4" seat springs to replace the too short 3" springs. Sits much better now.



I got new Daugherty replica brake and clutch cables and grips. Those are new bars also. But I dont think those are going to work. More on that in a bit







If you recall I had to destroy the steering damper knob shaft to get the steering apart. Well the damper is what holds the steering stop in place. So I kinda need it there. Well Replacement damper shafts/knob is like $45 and that bottom nut is around $35. My nut was rusted solid on my shaft hence the demise of the stock knob.

Well I really dont like that big plastic knob on the top of the steering so what I did was heat up that bottom nut cherry red and got it off the shaft. Amazingly I salvaged the nut and threads. After cleaning up it works perfect. I then found a button head cap screw, cut the shaft to length and had the bolt welded to the end. I know have a better looking setup and my steering stop is where it should be.









Now to try and get the bars to clear the tank I had to buy a new tank rubber and cut them both down to lower the tank.





The bars clear but just. Like 1/8 clearance at full lock. Too close for comfort. So what I think I am going to do is buy a diff bend bar with a narrower center section 4.0 vs 4.8 that little diff should buy me maybe another 1/8" clearance and make me feel better. Bars were only $20 so no big deal.

I have the motor mocked up in place to figure clearances and such. Nothing inside there but air right now.



It looks like the 500 pipes while the same as the 650 pipes aint going to work for some reason. The lh pipe is bent for sure. Looks like Im making new ones myself.



Got a new rear fender. 1/8 thk aluminum. It will get polished up like everything else. Havent figured out how its mounting yet.





I turned a new rear wheel spacer. The stock spacer was 1/4" too short. Made it on the lathe at work.





Got a new 530 chrome EK chain. Not sure if its going to work though. Its an o-ring chain and might be too wide up by the front sprocket. I am having interfearance issues up there. One of the problems is the 20t front sprocket my BSA guy sold me is too big. So I bought a new 17 tooth off ebay. Still waiting on that one. Hopefully it will fix my clearance issues. Still may be buying another non-oring chain though. I did buy a new rear sprocket but it dont work. That will either be custimized or returned. Time will tell.



And I bought a chain tensioner. Its going to need a little grinding and custimizing like everything else but should work ok. Yes thats a skateboard wheel.



So thats about it for now. I really need to start polishing the other engine cover. I dread polishing aluminum but it has to be done....wonder if anything good is on tv the next few evenings.
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Old 01-16-2010, 11:03 AM   #194
welder
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great work yzman. I have no room for a project so I have to get my fix reading threads like this. Keep my fix coming please.
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Old 01-16-2010, 12:10 PM   #195
Dabears
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Wow! This is coming together beautifully. I love the rear fender/tire fit. Hope you can maintain a nice close fit in the final build. Great job!
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