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Old 04-13-2009, 05:45 AM   #46
claude
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Beautiful.....should stand out
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:43 AM   #47
chefguy
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Very Nice Looking Rig!
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:14 PM   #48
Abenteuerfahrer OP
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She's finally attached to the Hip...

Finally got Dauntless re-modified subrame . Due to all this long waiting and exitement couldn't sleep so woke up and headed to the garage...started tinkering...drawing...imagining: drill 1 cm through BMW aluminum..uuhh...remove the engine support bolt...; Ave Maria!!! Went back to sleep....dreaming of an angel sending me instructions....!!!!

The following morning with the help of my Frau we tackled things BMW and Dauntless . The exhaust pipes had to be removed in order to drill straight through a lower slot that was there for nothing and Dauntless uses this to hang and fasten their subrfames lower part. The bolt provided was a tad bigger; about 1mm; thus the drill job. The upper subframe tab parts were a bit wide but perfectly aligned to the engine support bolt. I think the space was provided in order to avoid crushing and oil line and nut. This however called for adding spacers as not to bend the tabs. Spacers were made out from a discountinued Hepco-Becker crash bar aluminum spacers that I had removed and sitting in the attic.




Lower mount for Dauntless subframe





Right upper spacer...after the black motormount...



Left upper spacer....












Notice that the lone eye fastener is not being used. This is for the 1100 and 1150 series. 2005 1200 series uses the new front pinch clamp strut.





Abenteuerfahrer screwed with this post 08-16-2013 at 08:22 AM
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:08 AM   #49
hondachopper
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Good work and great pictures as always!! I'm enjoying this thread. You are fast!!! It looks like you're on schedule to hit the road soon!!!

Can't wait to see it altogether...

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Old 04-15-2009, 11:52 AM   #50
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Some more pictures...

Did the Toe-in; Lean-out>>> Aligned...calibrated...perfected ??? the framing and temporary attached the sidecar. I noticed a huge softness in the sidecars Progressive shock when stepping aboard. Would tightening(compressing) the OEM shock do or must I do the inevitable in spending another bundle of $$$$ for Wilbers, Ohlin, or Hyperpros. Can't some simple Advance Auto parts or PepBoys shocks do. How about airshocks?







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Old 04-15-2009, 12:34 PM   #51
Sidecarjohn
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Total Credit to You

Fantabulous ! Gorgeous ! An absolute credit to you.
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:48 PM   #52
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Are you done already??? Were you able to go for a ride to see if all is dialed in?

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Old 04-15-2009, 08:05 PM   #53
Qwik
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Beautiful setup.
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:18 PM   #54
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HondaChopper.....No rides yet as I am waiting for some longer bolts and spacers to complete the full and final hook up for the upper rear strut. Electrics havent been designed and connected. The tilt actuator hasn't either been connected to the front switch. Oh, man, still a way to go. Am in conversation with the shock guy contemplating getting a suitable shock for the Hack. Measured the sidecar off it's wheel with spouse sitting in the tub..it gave me 262#...and imagine the stuff I'd carry to points unknown, that'll probably be another 80#=342#. So generally 60% or 205# will compress the bikes rear. I already have the right shock for the rear of the bike but lack a better one for the Tub. What's more, the aux fuel tank has yet to be installed, or I might not install it at all. The original Ural 10L Jerry can needs to be painted as does it's bracket. I am thinking of fabricating the bracket out of aluminum as the Russian steel bracket weights 5.2# and so does the Jerry can. That's 10.4# hanging empty on the sidecar wall, add 10L gas, .... roughly another 15#...so you have hanging 25# on a GRP sidewall..hhmmnnn...shave off 5# by using an aluminum bracket??? Anyone wants to buy the Russkie bracket after I copied it in aluminum?

Here's the rear upper strut bracket that needs a spacer in order to avoid having the bracket rub or clamp against the frame.



Top view...notice the space where the upper shock bolt will have to go through. Bolt is on the way; about 4.5"






The 2005 1200 GS is a complete different animal compared to the 1100; 1150 and maybe even the 2006 and 2007. The aforementioned models main and subframe can be had off shelf from Dauntless but not the 2005. This was largely unknown. Mine is the first where everything had to be rebuild and refabricated by these people. I pretty much was the guinea pig in this regard..nothing wrong with that but it took time and labor. I pretty much will provide them with field suggestion once I am underway so that they can improve their product. A great group they are indeed. Yes, they need to have an in house "instruction" manual designer. There are no instructions; maybe a few pictures...or some scribblings....but help is always there; either playing phone tag or e-mailing to and fro.
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Old 04-16-2009, 12:15 AM   #55
johno
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Fantastic rig Love the colour

Job well done.
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Old 04-17-2009, 01:49 PM   #56
mikepa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abenteuerfahrer
I noticed a huge softness in the sidecars Progressive shock when stepping aboard. Would tightening(compressing) the OEM shock do or must I do the inevitable in spending another bundle of $$$$ for Wilbers, Ohlin, or Hyperpros. Can't some simple Advance Auto parts or PepBoys shocks do. How about airshocks?
Hey 'Fahrer -

That's one seriously great looking rig, and thanks for the detailed build reports and all the photos!

The tub will feel really soft if you get into it without the weight of a pilot on the bike, as (obviously), the bike's suspenders aren't compressed, so the sag of the tub's shock is a bit exaggerated. However, from what I've found, the standard Progressive that Dauntless supplies may be a bit "under-sprung" even without the weight of a passenger and gear in the tub.

I decided against the tilt-adjuster on my newest rig, and had Dauntless design a twin-shock set-up for the tub's trailing arm instead. Figured a couple of cheap shocks may be a more reliable (and cheaper) set-up than trying to find a high-end aftermarket solo shock. Time will tell. Dauntless is almost finished with UberHack 3.0 (WarBird) so I'll post some pics of the twin-shock set-up soon.

Do let us know if you find an alternative solo shock. In the meantime, you might want to order up a spare Progressive with the heaviest possible spring rate from Dauntless, and carry it as part of your spares kit. As you have seen, both In Japan last year with U'Hack 1.0, and this year in Tierra del Fuego with U'Hack 2.0, the Progressive shock failed. Since I carried a spare on both tours, it wasn't a big deal, but if I didn't have one, it would have been frustrating to say the least.

If you have the time, you might want to see how the trailing arm/wheel bottom-out with the shock removed, simulating what would happen should the shock come apart. That way, you'll at least know if you can limp along, or, if the wheel will hit the fender or whatever, which would be a nasty "surprise" if a failure occured underway!

Super nice work you've done so far.

Best,
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'05 BMW R1200GS/EZS Rally "L" (UberHack 1.0)
'05 BMW R1150GS Adventure/Ural "SideCzar" (Uberhack 2.0)
'04 BMW R1150GS Adventure/Ural "WarBird" (UberHack 3.0)
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Old 04-17-2009, 03:45 PM   #57
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Hi Mike...thanks for the advise. If I knew this about dual shocks then I would have gone that way. Oh, well! So far the Tilt actuator works OK. Been playing with different road crowns and it sure does make a huge difference.

I am in communication with Klaus at Hyperpro who sold me the bike shocks to see whether he can come up with something a bit cheaper. Plan on sending my OEM Progressive shock to him for spring testing(1 day turnaround). Then see what he has to say or has in store. I have very limited room and cannot have any of the shocks with pre-loader handles.

I am still not satisfied with the alignment of the toe-ins....when accelerating the rig pulls to the right and when suddenly decelerating it jumps to the left. Not that I drive that fast...but having gone 60-75 mph it's holding pretty steady. Still trying to get a near perfect alignment!
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Old 04-17-2009, 04:42 PM   #58
mikepa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abenteuerfahrer
....when accelerating the rig pulls to the right and when suddenly decelerating it jumps to the left.
If your rig didn't exhibit this behavior, then you would have somehow managed to defy Newton's Laws!

When accelerating, that tub sitting out there is dead weight, and as you open the throttle, the bike has to "pull" the tub, which is acting like a rolling anchor. The bike wants to steer around that anchor ("... an object at rest tends to stay at rest"), thus, it feels like your rig is pulling to the right.

Under deceleration or braking, the opposite occurs, the tub has inertia on its side ("...and object in motion tends to stay in motion"), and even if you have a sidecar brake, as the bike is decerating, the tub's momentum wants to steer ahead/around the bike, thus, it feels like the rig jumps or steers to the left.

Once you have figured out how to use this intertia, you'll find that you can ease the steering effort slightly when making right hand turns by accelerating a bit at the appropriate moment as you enter the turn. Conversly, you can ease the steering effort in left handers by braking late into the turn.

If your rig steers relatively straight at freeway speeds, without any significant/constant steering effort/input required to drive in a straight line, then I think you've got it nailed. I intentionally have mine set-up to drive very slightly to the right, so that if the pilot isn't paying attention or nods off momentarily, the rig doesn't head into the oncoming lane .
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'05 BMW R1200GS/EZS Rally "L" (UberHack 1.0)
'05 BMW R1150GS Adventure/Ural "SideCzar" (Uberhack 2.0)
'04 BMW R1150GS Adventure/Ural "WarBird" (UberHack 3.0)
http://www.globeriders.com
Kenmore, WA
USA

"The world is a book and those that do not travel, read only a page." - St. Augustine

"...not all those that wander are lost." - J. R. R. Tolkien
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Old 04-17-2009, 05:54 PM   #59
Abenteuerfahrer OP
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Thanks MIke...I am totally new to sidecars and have a lot to learn. Understand the theory but was told that having it tuned "right" then the accelerating/decelerating would be largely minimized, hhmmm... not so, Sir Issac Newtons law still rules....aaarrgggg
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Old 04-17-2009, 07:48 PM   #60
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Litewait.... planning to install the trail reducer next week. I hope I don't have any problems in regard to clearance of the telelever/swing arm as the upper tabs(upper engine holding rod/bolts) of the subframe are very close. Normally the telelever always goes up upon compression missing the portruding bolt below it. Should I have to lower the telelever then it will make contact with the upper bolt and the front shock might not be removable for making access and mounting the trail reducer....???







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