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Old 02-07-2010, 12:50 PM   #1651
RivahRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kentucky
My friend in Florida has 52k miles on his 650GS. He has been using Sprocket Specialties Tital Tough rear sprockets on his and loves the long service life. His recommendation to me which I have taken is to go from a 47 to a 45 rear. I put mine on this week but haven't ridden it yet.
Barry
+1 on that. I also use a 17 counter shaft sprocket for long trips.
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Old 02-07-2010, 01:14 PM   #1652
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[quote=Kentucky His recommendation to me which I have taken is to go from a 47 to a 45 rear. I put mine on this week but haven't ridden it yet.
Barry[/quote]

Check my thought process on this - So I can change gearing with the rear sprocket and do not have to change out the front? Also I forgot to mention chains - any good one out there?
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Old 02-07-2010, 01:16 PM   #1653
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Eh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
That's impressive. What's the chance of shavings getting into the bottom end of the motor ruining it? Pretty reasonable I guess as from memory the head is all open via the cam chain cavity.
While I agree that an oil change is in order, I can't see how anything internal to the cylinder can get into the cam chamber above the head (and then down to the bottom end) - unless there has been catastrophic head failure somewhere. The inlet and exhaust ports are open only at the intake and exhaust pipe and the cylinder (when the valve is open), and the spark plug port(s) is plugged by the spark plug(s)! So no way for foreign material to get into the bottom end without either blowing past the rings ( ) or blowing a hole in the head ( ).

Or have I got it all wrong...
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Old 02-07-2010, 03:11 PM   #1654
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But the material came in through the inlet manifold. So to get to the exhaust it would have to have gone past the valves into the cylinder. Meaning that it would be in the top end. So from that I guess it could have travelled to the big end/ bottom end of the motor. Not sure how the cavities are down there though.
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Old 02-07-2010, 03:23 PM   #1655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgilmore
Check my thought process on this - So I can change gearing with the rear sprocket and do not have to change out the front? Also I forgot to mention chains - any good one out there?
Yes you can simply change the rear. In a perfect world we would have two sets of wheels/tires with a 47 or lower ratio on the rear with off road friendly dot's. Then all we would do is change wheels/tires and be ready for Interstate tours or dual sporting. I just returned from a nice 50 mile ride in some 22 degree temps. The gearing is fabulous thus far. I can still loft the front wheel with the 47 and the power feels just fine.

I just changed sprockets and chains. I have no experience with this change but I used an RK XW ring chain. It is an X ring change with three sealing surfaces and the metal is hardened. RK says with equal use and care it is capable of exceeding the life of their non hardened chain by a shocking 100%. I'll have a full report on that in about three months or so. The Tital Tough hardened sprocket and that chain has the potential to extend my chain life a bunch. I also ordered the really cool looking chain oiler from Rider Warehouse that has that little primer bubble like your lawn mower carb. A good friend of a buddy of mine just got almost 40,000 miles out of a chain on a Tiger 1050 using that. He says when he gets into a town and is going slow he gives it two or three pumps and keeps his chain well lubed. I'm liking the idea of not having to lube my chain nightly on a 500 mile day or midway on an 800 mile day.
Barry
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Old 02-07-2010, 03:45 PM   #1656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc mad
my guess is air in the system, did you burp the pipes and loosen the bleed screw? if you didn't do both of those you'll have air in there somewhere

The air expanded when hot, but contracted when it cooled down, hence the collapsed pipe.
You were 100% correct. I just opened the bleeder valve and heard the hissing sound as air escaped. The water hose filled right up. I went for a 50 mile ride and will it cool back to completely cold and do it one more time and should be set. Thanks.

I love this thread.
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Old 02-07-2010, 05:37 PM   #1657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgilmore
Time to replace chain and sprocket and was wondering if there was anything better then stock OEM? Also was toying with the idea of changing my gearing. I thought I would gear up so I would have a smoother ride at highway speeds and when I am on the logging roads I am mostly in 1st and 2nd. By gearing up I could stay in 1st gear longer and avoid having to continuously shift between 1st and 2nd. Not to worried about losing the bottom end torque since I think I have enough torque already for my style of riding. Any thoughts for this novice rider?
I just replaced my rear sprocket and chain. I shopped around and to my surprise Touratech had the DID 520 at a fair price. Also a selection of sprockets. So I would check that out. Install was easy. I went to a 49 rear with the stock front 16. I really can't answer your gearing question, but unless you're doing long distance, lower gearing has been great for dual sporting.
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Old 02-07-2010, 05:43 PM   #1658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bout-time
Hi, its me again, the unlucky guy whose bike swallowed a wellnut on the third day of ownership. Well I got the head off and found brass fragments all around, including in the exhaust pipe. There are small indents all over the head and piston, where the nut got bounced all around for a few seconds only. I can't believe how it has been so pulverised. Otherwise everything looks ok but best get the valves checked for bend I guess. Any opinions as to whether I should do more than just that? Cheers I'll post photos once I've shrunk them.....
I would definitely to a full oil change. Also consult with someone on F650.com
Since your oil pan drain magnet won't pick up the brass, I would use a strainer to see if there's anything in your used oil. Err on the side of caution.
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:29 PM   #1659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
But the material came in through the inlet manifold. So to get to the exhaust it would have to have gone past the valves into the cylinder. Meaning that it would be in the top end. So from that I guess it could have travelled to the big end/ bottom end of the motor. Not sure how the cavities are down there though.
The only path from the inlet/exhaust track and combustion chamber into the the cam galley would be through the valve stem guides. Not likely. In order to get into the bottom end from the combustion chamber, you have get past the rings. Not likely.

But then...
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:57 PM   #1660
tmotten
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You're right. I was mistaken. Somehow I thought that there was a link between the valve head and inlet. But yeah, would have to go past the valve stem, shim bucket etc. Not likely. Wouldn't be a bad idea to check under the shim bucket for some shavings though.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:25 AM   #1661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
That's how I built them as well out of half inch tubing to keep it a bit lighter. I've made jigs for when they break. Could always make them a bit heavier.

I was going to make those loops on the inside instead. For things like Rok Straps and a loop in the middle for Andy Strapz. Should give heaps of functionality.
Yeah, not much extra work to make, and like I said, priceless

I had mine powdercoated which has held up really well. They've got a few scrapes here and there, but the paint hasn't flaked off or anything like that.
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:39 PM   #1662
rc mad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kentucky
You were 100% correct. I just opened the bleeder valve and heard the hissing sound as air escaped. The water hose filled right up. I went for a 50 mile ride and will it cool back to completely cold and do it one more time and should be set. Thanks.

I love this thread.
Barry
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:56 PM   #1663
bout-time
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motor ate a nut...

Here are the pics of piston and cylinder after demolishing a brass nut...
[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]


[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:13 PM   #1664
tmotten
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From my inexperienced eyes that doesn't look to bad? Impressive demolition work though.
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:19 PM   #1665
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Yeah, good thing it was brass. Nice close up photo's, too.
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