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Old 08-11-2011, 02:42 AM   #6076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc mad View Post
My chain and sprockets are bolloxed, lucky if I can get 200 miles before it needs readjusting, going to replace that once i get back from Canada. But I doubt its chain related as it's not speed related, just revs related.
When my chain/ sprockets were worn beyond all hope my symptoms would only be rev related and not speed at all. More specific; I thought there was something seriously wrong every time I accelerated from low revs and pushed it (from 3rd through 5th)

Hope replacing the filter fixes it for you
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Old 08-11-2011, 03:10 AM   #6077
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Originally Posted by beewill View Post
Ok here it goes, the obligatory questions about a future purchase regarding a BMW Dakar. I am trying to decide on which dual sport to buy with the usual suspects being the Dakar, KTM 640 ADV, and the KLR. My main question I would like to put out there to the Dakar crowd specifically, because I know you will correct me if I am wrong, it seems to me that the KLR and the 640 ADV are the two ends of the performance vs. comfort spectrum, as well as the maintenance (cost of ownership) spectrum. From my months of research (i.e. drooling over all of your pictures and posts) I have brought myself the conclusion that the Dakar might be the happy medium. It would appear that a Dakar could carry my 62, 260 lbs. frame in some comfort for 200-300 mi. days as well as being able to handle some dirt and gravel thrashing on the weekends.

Let me know if my conclusion has any merit, or you can just make fun of me asking a question Im sure you have answered many times. I can take some abuse. I am starting to get a taste for some Beemer Kool-aid, just want to make sure my current lust is somewhat founded in reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwayne View Post
I would say that the KTM and the BMW would be better spectrum ends. Of the 3 you mentioned the KLR would be the middle bike in most but not every category. I would say that the BMW is cheaper to own than the KTM, but not by as much as you might think and the BMW is more expensive that the KLR, but not by nearly as much as most think (assuming you do the work yourself). Any of those bikes will do a 200 mile day without much discomfort. On a 600 mile day, I would be on the BMW. The BMW is less dirt worth than the KLR (both stock), but are close enough that a slight change in rider skill would tip the balance. The BMW is a better gravel road bike, as most KLR's are prone to the weave.

At your height, you may find the KTM has the most comfortable seat position, the stock BMW riding position is a little odd compared to other similar bikes.
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Old 08-11-2011, 03:23 AM   #6078
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Originally Posted by Parx400 View Post
Unless you plan on doing the fork swap and a nice shock on the back I would not pick the BMW.
Depends on the type of riding. Had no problems touring the whole of Australia with full luggage on very bad roads and tracks on the stock shock and forks (progressive springs in forks)

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc mad View Post
The stock suspension is adequate and it handles just fine, however a upgrade at both ends is so worth it
Ofcourse

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc mad View Post
If I was in the market for a f650 the two biggest questions would be when was the water pump replaced and has the fuel filter been replaced. There's not much else that goes wrong. Mine has done 30k and the only two things I've had to do other than routine maintenance has been the water pump and the fuel filter / pressure regulator.
Stock fuel filter still going strong at 67.000 kms (have had inline paper filter from 14.000 kms - 60.000 kms and FI rated one since then)
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Old 08-11-2011, 03:53 AM   #6079
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Anyone know if a Dakar shock will fit on a standard GS? Any other modifications required?
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Old 08-11-2011, 04:59 AM   #6080
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Originally Posted by mrprez View Post
Anyone know if a Dakar shock will fit on a standard GS? Any other modifications required?
It will fit just fine. The only issue you will encounter is the chain. Adjusted properly it will hang very loose when the suspension is uncompressed. If your GS is a dual spark, you will most likely have the frame lug in place to mount the lower chain roller. If not, it's no disaster, I've been running my GS with a Dakar-length Ohlins shock for a few years now, and no matter how I abuse it nothing has gone wrong.
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Old 08-11-2011, 05:45 AM   #6081
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Originally Posted by JDLuke View Post
It will fit just fine. The only issue you will encounter is the chain. Adjusted properly it will hang very loose when the suspension is uncompressed. If your GS is a dual spark, you will most likely have the frame lug in place to mount the lower chain roller. If not, it's no disaster, I've been running my GS with a Dakar-length Ohlins shock for a few years now, and no matter how I abuse it nothing has gone wrong.
I think I'd consider a chainguide to take up the slack and prevent it from throwing it when it's worn
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2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 08-11-2011, 05:58 AM   #6082
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Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
I think I'd consider a chainguide to take up the slack and prevent it from throwing it when it's worn
Some of us change our chains more often than once a decade.
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Old 08-11-2011, 07:35 AM   #6083
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Originally Posted by JDLuke View Post
Some of us change our chains more often than once a decade.
I don't have the kind of money where I can replace chains before they're worn out

I've only had mine thow the chain once (once as in one day....). It threw the chain 3 times and I was about a day from the nearest town and two days from the nearest city. A chainguide would've prevented it from trowing the chain I'm sure. In the end my only option was to tighten the chain up to "zero" play and hope for the best (maybe had 1cm play)

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Old 08-11-2011, 07:41 AM   #6084
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Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
Nice!
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Old 08-11-2011, 07:42 AM   #6085
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Finally got to the bike and tore the ignition switch out..... wow.....

After removing about a kilo of green and blue oxidation around the contacts and about 2 kilos of australian red sand/dust I could see what's supposed to be what again (pics later).
Everything is now in a good soak of oxide cleaner over night.

My question to the more electrically apt out there; what, if anything, should I use on all the contact bits before putting it back together ? I don't mind having to do this every 9 years, but I'd rather not have it fail on me far away from home again
I'm thinking of laying on a thick layer of battery terminal grease. Anyone see a problem with that ?
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 08-11-2011, 07:45 AM   #6086
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Originally Posted by pyrate View Post
Nice!
So you agree ?
I wasn't going to ponder too much and I've never ridden a KLR myself, but that's my gut feeling. The older KLR's without the fairing looks a lot nimbler and more two-track worthy than the current one to me.
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2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 08-11-2011, 08:01 AM   #6087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
Finally got to the bike and tore the ignition switch out..... wow.....

After removing about a kilo of green and blue oxidation around the contacts and about 2 kilos of australian red sand/dust I could see what's supposed to be what again (pics later).
Everything is now in a good soak of oxide cleaner over night.

My question to the more electrically apt out there; what, if anything, should I use on all the contact bits before putting it back together ? I don't mind having to do this every 9 years, but I'd rather not have it fail on me far away from home again
I'm thinking of laying on a thick layer of battery terminal grease. Anyone see a problem with that ?
I would put dielectric grease (http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...-Up_Grease.htm) on all your connections before putting it back together. Helps keep all the crap out of the connections and won't conduct electricity. Not sure if has the same properties as battery terminal grease or not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
So you agree ?
I wasn't going to ponder to much and I've bever ridden a KLR myself, but that's my gut feeling. The older KLR's without the fairing looks a lot nimbler and more two-track worthy than the current one to me.
Yeah, I think that is a pretty good comparison. Writing that out gets messy and that chart gives a much better "picture". I've only ridden the older KLR's on any real road and they were much more dirt worthy IMO. I road a newer one at a bike show and they tend to move more into the 4-5 range of your chart.
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Old 08-11-2011, 08:04 AM   #6088
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Originally Posted by pyrate View Post
I would put dielectric grease (http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...-Up_Grease.htm) on all your connections before putting it back together. Helps keep all the crap out of the connections and won't conduct electricity. Not sure if has the same properties as battery terminal grease or not.


Make sure whatever you put on is NOT conductive. That's the last thing you want inside a switch.

For the inside of the switch itself, I'd just go with a contact cleaner/lubricant, pick it up at an electronics store (Tun-O-Wash is one brand here in the states). I'd slather up the connector with dielectric grease before plugging things back together.
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Old 08-11-2011, 08:15 AM   #6089
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Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post


Make sure whatever you put on is NOT conductive. That's the last thing you want inside a switch.

For the inside of the switch itself, I'd just go with a contact cleaner/lubricant, pick it up at an electronics store (Tun-O-Wash is one brand here in the states). I'd slather up the connector with dielectric grease before plugging things back together.
Description of
Protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion. Extends the life of bulb sockets. Prevents voltage leakage around any electrical connection. Also prevents spark plugs from fusing to boots. Required for modern high energy ignition systems.

Suggested Applications: Marine and automotive electrical connections, spark plug boots, trailer hitches, battery terminals
I have found this brand outside of the US so perhaps you can too but in general anything that fits that description is fine. I've used it for years on boats, even with connections that get sprayed or submerged in salt water at times and it works real well. Just make sure whatever you put it on is completely dry before doing so. Any cleaner etc that is in the switch will stay in the switch once you put this on. Depending on the cleaner, it might even compromise the dielectric grease's effectiveness if the two are mixed.
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Old 08-11-2011, 09:45 AM   #6090
mrprez
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Originally Posted by JDLuke View Post
It will fit just fine. The only issue you will encounter is the chain. Adjusted properly it will hang very loose when the suspension is uncompressed. If your GS is a dual spark, you will most likely have the frame lug in place to mount the lower chain roller. If not, it's no disaster, I've been running my GS with a Dakar-length Ohlins shock for a few years now, and no matter how I abuse it nothing has gone wrong.
OK, thanks. I am selling a shock and someone wanted to know if it would fit their bike.
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