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Old 12-20-2011, 01:48 PM   #7066
tmotten
Lefthand ride Dutchy
 
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Calgary
Oddometer: 2,455
Interesting cover. Any details?

I only changed the bottom fitting. The oil tank is unchanged. No issues with pressure. Only becomes an issue when it's blocked, but the last thing you should worry about than is the oil hose. I simply reused the old banjo and had an elbow and 1/2" barb silver soldered on to it. Any hydraulics shop should be able to do it. Bread and butter work for them. In hindsight I reckon it's overkill though. As I said, you can get the OEM tube flared where you cut it, like it is on the oil tank, and with a hose clamp should be ample to hold the tube on. It's not massive pressure so flaring it might even be overkill. I routed it forward because that give maximum space getting the cover off and more importantly on which is the hardest.

I wouldn't go with a stainless tube to be honest. Most are rated for fuel (not the same) and you can't inspect the state of the rubber which can get hard and than brittle and the rest should be obvious. It rubs the paint of the case as well where it touches. Notice how I had to clamp it onto the water pump barb to keep it off the exhaust.
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Old 12-20-2011, 05:37 PM   #7067
mattomoto
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: In the shadow of Long's Peak, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten View Post
Interesting cover. Any details?
Me? Which cover?

I like the looks of your ss line better though. I just got some high pressure oil line from the local Napa auto store. Green in color but whatever. Works. I did not flare the steel line after I cut it but marked it with a Sharpie and kept an eye on it. Has not moved in 5000+ miles.
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Old 12-20-2011, 07:07 PM   #7068
tmotten
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Yeah, didn't look right. Was a bit rushed this morning and thought you had those removable clutch covers.

That steel tubing sucks I reckon. Good day in the dust or mud and it won't look like that, and everything else it black anyway.
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Old 12-20-2011, 07:18 PM   #7069
mattomoto
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: In the shadow of Long's Peak, CO
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Originally Posted by tmotten View Post
Yeah, didn't look right. Was a bit rushed this morning and thought you had those removable clutch covers.

That steel tubing sucks I reckon. Good day in the dust or mud and it won't look like that, and everything else it black anyway.

Ha, thought maybe you meant my "customized" scratches on the cover
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:38 AM   #7070
littlebull
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Bend, OR
Oddometer: 320
Tires

One more question...

I am currently running Anakees on my '07, but want to change them to D606s this spring. The fork bridge makes things look a little tight. Do I need to modify anything to run the knobbies? It looks like there may be spacers on the bridge. Any advice before I do the change up?

Any advice is appreciated.

Kim
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:34 AM   #7071
kubiak
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Location: madera california
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Originally Posted by littlebull View Post
One more question...

I am currently running Anakees on my '07, but want to change them to D606s this spring. The fork bridge makes things look a little tight. Do I need to modify anything to run the knobbies? It looks like there may be spacers on the bridge. Any advice before I do the change up?

Any advice is appreciated.

Kim
my 02 dakar had dunlop d606s on it with no problems with the fork brace. it was pretty close but still had a little clearance.
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Old 12-21-2011, 01:07 PM   #7072
littlebull
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Thanks, Kubiak. Unless I hear otherwise, the knobbies are a go. I've used these on my other bikes and am looking forward to getting them on the Dakar. It likes the dirt best!
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:11 PM   #7073
kubiak
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Originally Posted by littlebull View Post
Thanks, Kubiak. Unless I hear otherwise, the knobbies are a go. I've used these on my other bikes and am looking forward to getting them on the Dakar. It likes the dirt best!
yea mine had a set of 606s when i bought it, i now have the yz inverted forks. at the most if it was so close you could add a few washers under the brace i would think.mine had the stock spacers and i took them out and the knobbies still fit. good luck!
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Old 12-24-2011, 09:00 PM   #7074
Kainic
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Stamford, CT
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Originally Posted by twinrider View Post
Cobbled together in about 20 minutes using a saw, hammer, vice and drill. Besides being tucked in, another nice point is that it turns with the wheel, unlike the stock headlight.
Does your lightbar vibrate when the bike is running? Any chance you listing the dimensions?
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Old 12-24-2011, 10:00 PM   #7075
twinrider
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Location: 日本
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The bracket looks excellent.

Looks like 4 inch aluminum stock? What brand of lights are you running?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kainic View Post
Does your lightbar vibrate when the bike is running? Any chance you listing the dimensions?
Sorry I missed your earlier post. I bought the lights in the vendor forum here and they turned out to be garbage, bought six and all broke, some within days, others lasting longer but eventually dead within months. Now I'm using similar looking ones bought directly from the OEM maker that are built to higher specs (more robust drivers and leds) and they're holding up much better. Cheaper as well. Check them out here, they're having a Christmas sale. http://24x7diy.com/specials.php

Don't notice any vibrations, will post up some measurements later.
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twinrider screwed with this post 12-24-2011 at 11:51 PM
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Old 12-25-2011, 02:40 AM   #7076
Bikenstitches
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast CT
Oddometer: 441
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Originally Posted by twinrider View Post
Sorry I missed your earlier post. I bought the lights in the vendor forum here and they turned out to be garbage, bought six and all broke, some within days, others lasting longer but eventually dead within months. Now I'm using similar looking ones bought directly from the OEM maker that are built to higher specs (more robust drivers and leds) and they're holding up much better. Cheaper as well. Check them out here, they're having a Christmas sale. http://24x7diy.com/specials.php

Don't notice any vibrations, will post up some measurements later.
Thanks for the tip tw; I've been looking for a reasonably priced set and this looks like the ticket.
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Old 12-25-2011, 03:39 AM   #7077
guavadude
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Dallas, TX
Oddometer: 631
The 24x7 lights look good. What model do you recommend? Any additional tips...relay, switch etc?
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Old 12-25-2011, 06:27 AM   #7078
twinrider
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Originally Posted by guavadude View Post
The 24x7 lights look good. What model do you recommend? Any additional tips...relay, switch etc?
For the Dakar I recommend the 4 high power Cree XPG R5 leds. They're bright but only draw 40 watts for the pair so they leave you with enough juice leftover to simultaneously power heated gear and grips.
http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/194

But if you don't care about conserving juice and don't mind spending more, these 3000 lumen 4 high power Cree XML T6 leds are the ultimate in brightness with a total 60 watt draw for the pair.
http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/94


For wiring I used a Piaa 74040 harness that includes a relay and a waterproof illuminated switch, but just about any harness will work.
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Old 12-25-2011, 06:33 AM   #7079
twinrider
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Originally Posted by Bikenstitches View Post
Thanks for the tip tw; I've been looking for a reasonably priced set and this looks like the ticket.
Always happy to help a fellow CTer, lots of good memories growing up in Farmington.
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Old 12-27-2011, 07:57 AM   #7080
rmarkr
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Lowcountry
Oddometer: 385
Pelican Cases

Lost one of my stock cases - this seems to work. Size is about midway between the expanded and collapsed OEM box. This is the Pelican 'storm' case. Its a bit lighter and cheaper than the regular case.









I laid up a fiberglass panel for the cutout. Mounts to the stock hangers.

Happy Holidays!
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