The 650 Dakar Thread

[LoJack]

Rednecks driving 245's with giant woofers bolted into the back! That is awesome!

[BMacW650]

Originally Posted by mattomoto

Ya, a little rich for my blood. I did make one out of some square tube aluminum that hold the lights from the backside of the stock dash. A little getto, but it works. I was thinking maybe a block of plastic drilled to hold the lights (I have LED bulbs in them already) would work better.

Time to fire up the drill press

Oh, and check this thread out if you have not seen it. Good ideas here. Ralley navigation build thread.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=684282

Get these from superbrightleds.com

[Don Coyote]

Originally Posted by coletrain

Basically there are 3 ways: 1. remove it without any mods(if you dont have ABS). 2. cut a section out of it and replace with oil proof hose, 3. replace the rigid line entirely with aftermarket hose.

I chose option 1 cause I dont have abs and could reach the bolt that holds the line to the engine block. Most people choose option 2 because its fast, easy, & cheap. 3 is very nice if you have the $$ for a pro to make one. BAT makes one for the F650. Search the threads on f650.com too.

FBOA with ABS here, so it looks like #2. Is Fritzy's description in the FAQs still a good guide? Is that the best place to make the cut? I've been looking through the f650.com threads but so far have just seen discussion about improving the water pump and seals...

One other question, if you get enough hose to route the line around the clutch cover so that the cover can be removed without disconnecting the line, does it make the process any easier than not having to remove a hose clamp?

[Dan Alexander]

[QUOTE=Gravel Seeker;17903381]Friday night forever

Some of you remember I posted a couple of links to a band called Amulet. After they split up the singer went solo and has three videos out. They're a trilogy and were all directed by Emil Trier and each one depict different norwegian youth cultures. These videos just blow my mind. All of them bring back personal memories, but more than that, and I think you'll agree, it's the cinematography combined with the accompanied soundtracks that is just amazing.[QUOTE]

Amazing closeup look at the youth in a part of the world we don't hear much about, thanks.

[Gravel Seeker]

Originally Posted by GSBS

Oh and another thing... the first time starting the bike of the day you also should continue holding the starter button down for a few seconds until it runs smooth - 3 or 4 seconds.

I keep hearing this and I can't for the life of me figure out what this should be good for. Would you keep turning the key in your car for 3-4 second after it fires up ?
I'd appreciate it if someone who suggests doing this would also explain the reasoning behind this procedure.

[Gravel Seeker]

Originally Posted by redbastard

Touratech sells these for $140 . Thats just for the lights.

http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/2...ED-Dash-Lights

I'm going to do everything in my power to make my stock guage set up work with the new fairing.

I've had problems with creeping currant between the LEDs with this one (originating somewhere in the harness I think). Especially when it's raining. The high beam LED is way to bright and actually blinds you in the dark so I had to paint it bacl with a sharpie. It still glows just the right amount of blue through the ink. I tried using the gear change LED where the fuel light is originally, but it's never worked. Might just need a resistor like the oil pressure/ voltage LED does, but I've only ran out of fuel a couple of times since 2003 without the fuel light so I haven't bothered with it.

[Don Coyote]

Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker

I keep hearing this and I can't for the life of me figure out what this should be good for. Would you keep turning the key in your car for 3-4 second after it fires up ?
I'd appreciate it if someone who suggests doing this would also explain the reasoning behind this procedure.

When i try starting the cold engine in coldish ambient temps, if i let go of the starter button when i hear it fire the first time, it usually stalls. Never timed it, but think anything past the first couple ignitions works...

[Gravel Seeker]

Originally Posted by Dan Alexander

Amazing closeup look at the youth in a part of the world we don't hear much about, thanks.

No worries

[Gravel Seeker]

Originally Posted by Don Coyote

When i try starting the cold engine in coldish ambient temps, if i let go of the starter button when i hear it fire the first time, it usually stalls. Never timed it, but think anything past the first couple ignitions works...

Sure, I hold the button in untill it's fired up properly (mine also stalls sometimes if it only cranks once), but 3-4 seconds is a very long time. If the idea is just to hold it long enough that it runs why not say that ? I reckon there are several new owner out there who keep cranking long after it's fired up because they read it here and that can't be good for the starter, battery etc in the long run.

[tomatoe333]

Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker

I keep hearing this and I can't for the life of me figure out what this should be good for. Would you keep turning the key in your car for 3-4 second after it fires up ?
I'd appreciate it if someone who suggests doing this would also explain the reasoning behind this procedure.

The ECU gets a signal from the starter circuit, and it richens up the injection more than normal for a cold start. It knows when you're pressing the button.

I'm guessing that it keeps that enrichment as long as the button is pressed, so when it's cold, it's just enough for the first few seconds to keep the engine from stalling again.

When it's REALLY cold, the same trick works on my car. It has to be below zero fahrenheit to need it though.

[Gravel Seeker]

Originally Posted by tomatoe333

The ECU gets a signal from the starter circuit, and it richens up the injection more than normal for a cold start. It knows when you're pressing the button.
I'm guessing that it keeps that enrichment as long as the button is pressed, so when it's cold, it's just enough for the first few seconds to keep the engine from stalling again.
When it's REALLY cold, the same trick works on my car. It has to be below zero fahrenheit to need it though.

Ok, so it acts like a double choke. I can't prove otherwise so I'm not going to argue it.
I've heard this suggested for everyone, but I seriously doubt it's usefull unless it's very cold, when 99,X % have laid their bikes up in winter-storage.

[Skelt]

It's on the internet. It has to be true!

[GSBS]

Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker

Ok, so it acts like a double choke. I can't prove otherwise so I'm not going to argue it.
I've heard this suggested for everyone, but I seriously doubt it's usefull unless it's very cold, when 99,X % have laid their bikes up in winter-storage.

I never knew the how and why of this... it was a technique suggested to me by a buddy who has always been spot-on with anything mechanical. But in the 72K plus miles I've put on my Dakar I've used this procedure and it's always started and run fine. And I don't always hold the button 3-4 seconds, just until the engine begins to run smoothly.

It must not be doing much to harm the starter, battery as I've never had any issue with the starter and the original battery lasted over six years and right at 50K miles.

This was my experience with my bike. I can't guarantee it'd be the same for anyone. As I noted in my earlier post... YRMV.

But for me it works and I'll continue this way until I see a reason not to.

[Renaissanceman]

My '03 will stall if I don't hold the starter button for a few revs of the engine. If I let go immediately after it catches, it will stall. Maybe 1 second.

Don Coyote - here's my speedy fix. Always meant to refine it, but I've never felt the need. You can run hose all the way to the bottom banjo fitting, but I'd rather have the hard pipe - and again, I'm lazy.

[Benjah]

I've got a very similar setup on my bike. No problems at all.