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Old 03-12-2012, 01:03 PM   #7621
Gravel Seeker
Thomas
 
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Location: Dreary old Norway, dreaming of adventures past
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parx400 View Post
This one has a yellowish fuel light. What resistor did you have to use? Is it the same one people used for the turn signals? Cause I have a few of those.
Not sure about which one I used for the oil/ charge LED, but might've been 100ohm 3W since I've scribbled that down here.

I have LED turn signals and don't have a resistor on those, but I've replaced the relay many years ago because I went with 21W bulbs in the original turn signals instead of the OEM 10W. When I went to LEDs they just worked so smiles all around.
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 03-12-2012, 03:11 PM   #7622
tmotten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parx400 View Post
S0 I am installing one of these on a rallye style dash I'm making.
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/P...ED-Dash-Lights

My turn signals are already LED plus I have an LED flasher, I will not need a resistor for that. How about the rest of the lights?

Also I plan to run a Vapor with this. Were you guys able to use the BMW Tach wires with it?
I was hoping to make my own one with a DIY carbon box and some LED bezels and 12V LED's in various colours from ebay. Those LED's have a resistor built in to work with 12v. Are you guys saying additional resistors are required as with the fuel light (I think it was a fuel light. Been somewhat removed from this build for a while)?





How did you guys hook this into the OEM wiring? Cut the existing connector to the dash off and solder them straight to the wiring, or has someone found the male part of the OEM connector?
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:47 PM   #7623
Parx400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten View Post
I was hoping to make my own one with a DIY carbon box and some LED bezels and 12V LED's in various colours from ebay. Those LED's have a resistor built in to work with 12v. Are you guys saying additional resistors are required as with the fuel light (I think it was a fuel light. Been somewhat removed from this build for a while)?





How did you guys hook this into the OEM wiring? Cut the existing connector to the dash off and solder them straight to the wiring, or has someone found the male part of the OEM connector?
I'm going to cut the oem connector off and solder all the wires to it. That way I can un plug it.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:00 PM   #7624
redbastard
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a wet woods ride

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=025Xc...&feature=share

a wet woods ride on my modified Dakar. I was getting held up by a DRZ400 but what can you do.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:11 AM   #7625
FinlandThumper
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Last weekend I put the bike together for spring. I meant to lube the wheel bearings, which though they are sealed can be opened carefully. For three of the five total bearings (sprocket carrier has one also) this was no challenge.

The bearings for the Dakar and gs models are 17x40x12 bearings. Each bearing has a seal which can be removed wi a small flat blade screwdriver. Simply work the flat blade on the inside edge, where a small rubber part is located and very gentle pressure brings it up without damaging the seal. Grease was clean but a bit dry side (like all BMW bearings it seems), so I repacked the three. But in front of two, there was a second seal. The fiche:

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...6&rnd=03252011

Referring to the parts fiche, I think this is the part 10, or shaft seal as25x40x7. At least, that is what I remember it saying and the wheel is back on the bike for now; this is luckily only a maintenance detail. I had a feeling that I was pushing too hard...so I decided to play it safe and ask how to do this.

Anyone have some insight on how I remove this shaft seal?
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:25 AM   #7626
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Thomas
 
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Location: Dreary old Norway, dreaming of adventures past
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten View Post
I was hoping to make my own one with a DIY carbon box and some LED bezels and 12V LED's in various colours from ebay. Those LED's have a resistor built in to work with 12v. Are you guys saying additional resistors are required as with the fuel light (I think it was a fuel light. Been somewhat removed from this build for a while)?





How did you guys hook this into the OEM wiring? Cut the existing connector to the dash off and solder them straight to the wiring, or has someone found the male part of the OEM connector?
The TT LED bar came with a sugarcube type male and female plug with 12 holes

They also sell the plugs seperate: male and female - these are from the swedish webshop, but I'm sure you'll fint them in the english one too.

__________________
'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

Gravel Seekers.com

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It's the African ant eater ritual !
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:44 AM   #7627
zakopiec
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parx400 View Post
S0 I am installing one of these on a rallye style dash I'm making.
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/P...ED-Dash-Lights

My turn signals are already LED plus I have an LED flasher, I will not need a resistor for that. How about the rest of the lights?

Also I plan to run a Vapor with this. Were you guys able to use the BMW Tach wires with it?
I'm installing a tripmeter on my 01 dakar (no ABS) - can I use the wire to the dash (speed signal) - what are its properties? I dont want to mount another sensor on the front wheel.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:51 PM   #7628
tmotten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
The TT LED bar came with a sugarcube type male and female plug with 12 holes

They also sell the plugs seperate: male and female - these are from the swedish webshop, but I'm sure you'll fint them in the english one too.

No worries. Sucks how companies cut deals with Tyco to prevent connector designs and arrangements be sold on the wider market.
Looks like TT assumes you to cut the OEM connector as well. What's that other plug?

tmotten screwed with this post 03-13-2012 at 07:02 PM
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:44 PM   #7629
Road Rash
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I'm about ready to pull the trigger on this Remus exhaust, does anyone here have one with Jessie's, I think it will be fine, and I know I can modify if need be...............but would rather not.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:49 PM   #7630
ferals5
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Location: Goulburn, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FinlandThumper View Post
Last weekend I put the bike together for spring. I meant to lube the wheel bearings, which though they are sealed can be opened carefully. For three of the five total bearings (sprocket carrier has one also) this was no challenge.

The bearings for the Dakar and gs models are 17x40x12 bearings. Each bearing has a seal which can be removed wi a small flat blade screwdriver. Simply work the flat blade on the inside edge, where a small rubber part is located and very gentle pressure brings it up without damaging the seal. Grease was clean but a bit dry side (like all BMW bearings it seems), so I repacked the three. But in front of two, there was a second seal. The fiche:

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...6&rnd=03252011

Referring to the parts fiche, I think this is the part 10, or shaft seal as25x40x7. At least, that is what I remember it saying and the wheel is back on the bike for now; this is luckily only a maintenance detail. I had a feeling that I was pushing too hard...so I decided to play it safe and ask how to do this.

Anyone have some insight on how I remove this shaft seal?
The wheel bearings are SKF 6203 and the sprocket bearings are 6204 both cost around $5 ea here in Oz, very common bearing your local bearing or engineering shop should have them on the shelf. Seals are both 30x40x7 about $2 here. Seals just pop out with a bit of encouragement

.
oh and there are only two wheel bearings and two carrier bearings not sure how you get a fifth one in there
.

ferals5 screwed with this post 03-13-2012 at 11:54 PM Reason: fifth bearing ?
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:49 AM   #7631
Benjah
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Quote:
I agree but when I think about gain/cost ratio this high fender thing is sort of a must, I think...

Or may be I was too much fed up with the mud.
Most definitely good value for money. It works and looks better than stock. It's even better after you do the fork swap as a nice new Yamaha front guard bolts right on - no need for brackets or drilling extra holes.
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:04 AM   #7632
Ed Teach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duroturk View Post
Mounted and tested. Result is awesome. May be the best mod for Dakar!


What model of Acerbis is that fender? Is universal or specific for a bike?
Thanks
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:59 AM   #7633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten View Post
No worries. Sucks how companies cut deals with Tyco to prevent connector designs and arrangements be sold on the wider market.
Looks like TT assumes you to cut the OEM connector as well. What's that other plug?
The other plug connects to the printcard on the IMO. It's where it receives the signal to flash the gear change warning light I think. You need the IMO50 rallye for this function and I mine is the 100R300.
__________________
'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

Gravel Seekers.com

Hey !
It's the African ant eater ritual !
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:42 PM   #7634
FinlandThumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferals5 View Post


The wheel bearings are SKF 6203 and the sprocket bearings are 6204 both cost around $5 ea here in Oz, very common bearing your local bearing or engineering shop should have them on the shelf. Seals are both 30x40x7 about $2 here. Seals just pop out with a bit of encouragement

.
oh and there are only two wheel bearings and two carrier bearings not sure how you get a fifth one in there
.
Yeah, sorry I somehow counted to six wrong and got five. I was including the front wheel (two bearings up there) but then forgot the sprocket carrier has two bearings.

So you are saying the shaft seals outside the bearings (two seals, one on front opposite the disc, one on rear) can be popped off with more effort? Larger tool maybe, like a tire iron? (the seal I mean is not the seal on the bearing itself, but rather a seal in front of the bearing)

Thanks for the part numbers in any case!
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Old 03-15-2012, 12:52 AM   #7635
ferals5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FinlandThumper View Post
Yeah, sorry I somehow counted to six wrong and got five. I was including the front wheel (two bearings up there) but then forgot the sprocket carrier has two bearings.

So you are saying the shaft seals outside the bearings (two seals, one on front opposite the disc, one on rear) can be popped off with more effort? Larger tool maybe, like a tire iron? (the seal I mean is not the seal on the bearing itself, but rather a seal in front of the bearing)

Thanks for the part numbers in any case!

Two seals on the rear.
Rear wheel hub seal is outside the bearing on the left side just lever it out gently with a screwdriver( the seal surface bush just pulls out), the sprocket carrier seal is on the right side outside the bearing and also runs on a bush ( #3 in the fiche) which needs to come out as well. This seal surface bush sits over the axle bush #8 and is a little harder to pull but should come out easy enough. Bearing replacement is not hard but they are knocked out in order from the outside to inside exiting at the cush drive, inner bearings first, then circlip, then outer bearings.

cheers

Mark
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