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Old 08-25-2012, 02:59 AM   #9001
Sparqq
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I've seen a few guys with dust inside the airbox using a K&N filter, just spray some silicone oil inside the airbox to catch it. I've seen one guy with an engine and a very high oil consumption, 1 liter every 1000km. A lot of dust in in his airbox, he got the piston rings replaced and it was fixed.
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Old 08-25-2012, 04:44 AM   #9002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparqq View Post
Never use a K&N filter, they can cause serious engine damage because they don't filter good enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnman View Post
What is the basis of this statement/opinion?
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Originally Posted by mattomoto View Post
Marketing hype from other airfilter makers??? I have them in many of my vehicles with no ill effects. Airbox on the other side of the filter is always clean and I live in a very dusty area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
I'm running them in all my bikes - 2003 Dakar with over 79K miles; 2003 Victory with 27K miles; 2010 WR250R with almost 20K miles. Makes maintenance easier to use same cleaner/oil spray for everything. None of the three bikes has ever had any issues (and the Dakar and WR often see dusty conditions). I do clean and re-oil as needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
I've used mine since 2005 and had the engine open 3 times and not found anything to suggest rocks getting past the K&N filter.... my airbox is also leaking air/ dust through both the oiltank screw hole as well as the crank case went hole so the airbox is pretty filthy on the inside, but still no damage to the cylinder or piston.

yes, glad its not just me that think they work great - been using them for many years on cars, and have one on the dakar, went though dusty desert in Morocco with no problems and better engine breathing. I am nothing to do with K&N just think it was a very unfair statement
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Old 08-25-2012, 05:48 AM   #9003
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Originally Posted by aufevermike View Post
Then I put on a 15T front sprocket. That was kind of a bitch. I think they have King Kong torque that nut on.
The BMW manual calls for thread locker on that nut, along with the locking washer behind it. Even with king kong torque on it, mine came loose the first time I changed the sprocket. Lesson learned. Make sure to use some blue loctite on the nut and bend the washer behind it to keep the nut from backing out. I also put a line across the shaft and washer with a Sharpie so I can quickly tell visually if the nut is backing out.
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:19 AM   #9004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post
The BMW manual calls for thread locker on that nut, along with the locking washer behind it. Even with king kong torque on it, mine came loose the first time I changed the sprocket. Lesson learned. Make sure to use some blue loctite on the nut and bend the washer behind it to keep the nut from backing out. I also put a line across the shaft and washer with a Sharpie so I can quickly tell visually if the nut is backing out.
In the shop manual that countershaft sprocket nut calls for a high torque value (140 Nm) plus Locktite 243 (the blue). I usually don't bother with the Locktite after torquing because I dog-ear the locking washer usually on two sides and I figure this will absolutely prevent it backing off. BTW, I also buy a new washer with each new chain and sprockets change. Mine is at almost 80K miles and I've had zero issues with the CS nut trying to come loose after numerous sprocket/chain changes. YRMV.
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Old 08-26-2012, 01:29 AM   #9005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
In the shop manual that countershaft sprocket nut calls for a high torque value (140 Nm) plus Locktite 243 (the blue). I usually don't bother with the Locktite after torquing because I dog-ear the locking washer usually on two sides and I figure this will absolutely prevent it backing off. BTW, I also buy a new washer with each new chain and sprockets change. Mine is at almost 80K miles and I've had zero issues with the CS nut trying to come loose after numerous sprocket/chain changes. YRMV.
Taking it off the first time is a real bitch. Dunno what they used at the factory, but toal overkill.
- A tip if (general) you didn't already know is to loosen the CS nut with the chain in place and the rear brake pushed down

I just tighten as hard as I can/ dare by hand (probably not as high as 140nm). Am still using the original washer and just hammer it flat between changes and bend it on one side. Never had a problem with it coming loose.
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:03 AM   #9006
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Question for Parx or anyone with the tt rallye skid plate

I just wanted to confirm something, can you use the TT rallye skid plate without the toolbox on the front, and what does it look like?

Cheers
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:35 AM   #9007
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Originally Posted by Barnman View Post
I just wanted to confirm something, can you use the TT rallye skid plate without the toolbox on the front, and what does it look like?

Cheers
Huh ?

They're two different products. I have the one without the tools









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Old 08-26-2012, 10:12 AM   #9008
SScratch
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Anyone have a left BMW saddlebag they don't need? I trashed mine on a recent trip and would like to replace it. It doesn't need to be pretty, as long as the top mount is still functional, and I do not need the lock, aluminum cover plate, or bullet hole.
This one:
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Old 08-26-2012, 01:28 PM   #9009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
Huh ?

They're two different products. I have the one without the tools
Thanks Gravel Seeker - great pics

But I do mean the one with the tool box, I think the tool box unbolts and you can use it without, but wanted to check. I am hoping that when the toolbox is unbolted it does look something like yours
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:10 PM   #9010
tug
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Oil change

I am about to head out on my first major trip on a 2003 Dakar. Question I have is, what is the mileage between oil changes? In the maintenance Manuel it said once a year.
I am going from Houston to LA, across New Mexico CDT and some gravel roads in Colorado, so I am thinking maybe 4000 miles round trip.

Thanks,
Tug
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:30 PM   #9011
GSBS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tug View Post
I am about to head out on my first major trip on a 2003 Dakar. Question I have is, what is the mileage between oil changes? In the maintenance Manuel it said once a year.
I am going from Houston to LA, across New Mexico CDT and some gravel roads in Colorado, so I am thinking maybe 4000 miles round trip.

Thanks,
Tug
I think the manual calls for oil changes at 6K miles or so. I've always done mine at 5K intervals as it's easier to keep up with for me.
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:01 AM   #9012
tug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
I think the manual calls for oil changes at 6K miles or so. I've always done mine at 5K intervals as it's easier to keep up with for me.
Thanks,
Just wanted to confirm.
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:01 AM   #9013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnman View Post
Thanks Gravel Seeker - great pics

But I do mean the one with the tool box, I think the tool box unbolts and you can use it without, but wanted to check. I am hoping that when the toolbox is unbolted it does look something like yours
Ahh, ok, misunderstood. I also thought the one with the tools was welded up that way.
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

Gravel Seekers.com

Hey !
It's the African ant eater ritual !
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:14 PM   #9014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnman View Post
Thanks Gravel Seeker - great pics

But I do mean the one with the tool box, I think the tool box unbolts and you can use it without, but wanted to check. I am hoping that when the toolbox is unbolted it does look something like yours

It doesn't unbolt.
Simple as that.

You could always just fab a toolbox yourself and attach it to your (selfmade ) skid plate.
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:30 PM   #9015
rdalland
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Looks like I need to bite the bullet and buy some real hand guards for my Dakar.

Anybody have some they want to part with?
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