The 650 Dakar Thread

[Gravel Seeker]

Originally Posted by Blixa

Thanks Dansin. The Twisted Throttle site said that the Dakar stock engine guard would have to be removed to fit the SW-Motech bars. So it sounds like they meant the optional BMW engine bars, not the stock skidplate. This is where I got mixed up. If I can put the SW-Motech bars on and keep the stock skidplate, then I'm good to go. And it looks like that worked for you so this resolves my question. Thank you!

I wouldn't even look for the stock BMW engine guard as the mounting tabs on the frame are a fucking joke. In the end I had to cut my bars off with an angle grinder.
The stock "skid plate" is only good for one thing - collect forest debris and trap it on the hot exhaust so you have a nice fire going in front of your left boot while riding....

Happy so far with my Touratech skidplate which utilizes the peg mounts instead and has enough room not to collect tinders as your go. Without having measured I would think it would fit like a charm with the SW Motech guards too.

[Gravel Seeker]

Originally Posted by isgila

Ok guys this is my 3rd time that my nutz was loose. Yesterday the nutz decide to leave me.
Thank god not my rear wheel. And yes I do use loctite.
Read from several forums and found out the recommended torque is 100nm.
Bought a new non oem nut and tighten to spec. Now the wheel binds and hard to turn by hand.
Took off the wheel and inspect bearings and such. All good..
During my wrenching race days, I can tighten my dirtbike as tight as my legs permits, no prob.
Is the dakar swingarm really flexes that much to cause binding.
Anyway I will rebuilt the whole rear hub, bearings, seals and stuff. Just to be safe. Any input is appreciated.

Had the rear wheel bind once and had all bearings in the rear wheel as well as the sprocket carrier replaced and it was fine after that.

Never use loc tite and never had those types of problems.
Had all the frame bolts work loose and shear so installed lock washers. Been fine since.

Rear wheel axel nut I just tighten by feel 'till it's.....well, tight. Just make sure it's aligned first.... also installed nyloc nuts to the chain tensioner bolts so the lids don't move anymore.

CS sprocket I also just tighten by feel and use the bendy washer thingy ofcourse (chain on, rear wheel on adn foot on brake makes tightening/ loosening the CS nut a lot easier)

[Gravel Seeker]

Originally Posted by Sparqq

I found out the hard way that the fuel indication light is driven by the tacho unit. I removed the tacho and I use LED's for indication instead of bulbs. To get the fuel indication working again I connected pin7 to pin8 on the connector normally connected to the tacho

That's it ?! Really ?! Wow...

Actually had mine light up last week as the bike had been parked in the rain over night and I was riding in rain so current was creaping across all the wires in the contact. At least know the LED is working

[nomad5326]

Tossing on a Dakar front end and rear shock on my GF's GS w/ABS. (my old front end/rear without ABS). Couple of questions for those who have Dakar'd a GS...

Her ABS Sensor cable (do I need to buy a Dakar length)?
ABS Sensor ring? Her 19" front, transferable to the 21?
Brakeline (front) I already assume I need a Dakar length (any other issues)?

Only keeping ABS (for the time being) as I don't have the patience/time to fully remove it.

Removing her standard center stand and replacing side stand w/a Dakar length. Do NOT intend at this time to put on lower chain roller but already have a rear chain guide (TT). Issues, other than the chain on the centerstand (removed)?

All this so my brother has a bike to ride w/me for a couple of trips.

[tomatoe333]

Originally Posted by nomad5326

Removing her standard center stand and replacing side stand w/a Dakar length. Do NOT intend at this time to put on lower chain roller but already have a rear chain guide (TT). Issues?

If the frame has the boss for it, get a generic Moose chain roller and put that on. Only a few bucks, and it can't hurt.

[nomad5326]

Originally Posted by tomatoe333

If the frame has the boss for it, get a generic Moose chain roller and put that on. Only a few bucks, and it can't hurt.

Thanks Tomatoe, looking into that piece.

[Airhead11]

I noticed your post and thought we might be able to share what we've been working on. Some asshole rear-ended me in Los Angeles-then in that LA kind of way, took off! I have some minor damage to the rear end which I'm tweaking on my back deck. It looks like you may have taken off your rear exhaust? What did you have to do to separate them?

[TobyG]

Originally Posted by Parx400

The bike should get enough air flow to keep it cool when you are on the freeway.I don't think it should climb all the way up to 225 going 70mph on the freeway. I'm putting the fairing back on with a black KTM950 adv low fender. I just need some new side panels since I cut mine up.

Soudns just fine to me...mine usually ranges from 95°C to 110°C at this speed, depending on how warm/cold it is outside.

225 °F is 105°C by the way.

[Lupin 3rd]

Originally Posted by nomad5326

Her ABS Sensor cable (do I need to buy a Dakar length)?
ABS Sensor ring? Her 19" front, transferable to the 21?
Brakeline (front) I already assume I need a Dakar length (any other issues)?

Only keeping ABS (for the time being) as I don't have the patience/time to fully remove it.

Removing her standard center stand and replacing side stand w/a Dakar length. Do NOT intend at this time to put on lower chain roller but already have a rear chain guide (TT). Issues, other than the chain on the centerstand (removed)?

All this so my brother has a bike to ride w/me for a couple of trips.

Did this on my GS, needed the longer brake line to cope with the longer fork travel AND spacers to give the fork brace clearance for the 21" front.

The Dakar side stand could be a bit longer so I did the hockey puck mod: literally bolt on a hockey puck to the bottom of the side stand.

[Got2Moto]

Anybody want to split an order on these Anti-scuffing little plastic trim bits?
Number 9 + grommets.
Finally lost one today. $68! + freight from Bob's and all others.Think that's just for 2? Must be made from German gold


I have the '01 but probably all the same part #, and need the bottom short one. Blue preferably but any color would work.
If not I'll just make a sticker I don't miss it that much for that kind of dough.

Yeah , Maybe a long shot but a common problem I've read.

[nomad5326]

Originally Posted by Lupin 3rd

Did this on my GS, needed the longer brake line to cope with the longer fork travel AND spacers to give the fork brace clearance for the 21" front.

The Dakar side stand could be a bit longer so I did the hockey puck mod: literally bolt on a hockey puck to the bottom of the side stand.

Hmmm-got the front on w/still enough room w/o spacers (Dakar forks w/hyperpro springs, but her fork brace). Definitely see the spacers needed in mine (Dakar) but on hers it cleared just fine...

Lower OEM GS front brake line was def too short and maybe the ABS sensor cable too tight (I have one off a Dakar as well).

Getting into redoing the rear today. Still fumbling w/getting the rear exhaust apart so I can free up the pivot. But she's got a rebuilt Dakar Shock waiting to drop in.

Almost there though. Front done.

[Lupin 3rd]

Originally Posted by nomad5326

Hmmm-got the front on w/still enough room w/o spacers (Dakar forks w/hyperpro springs, but her fork brace). Definately see the spacers needed in mine but on hers it cleared just fine...
OEM GS front line was def too short and maybe the speedo cable too tight..

Getting into redoing the rear today after I figure out how to get the rear to tilt up. Still fumbling w/getting the rear exhaust apart so I can free up the pivot. But she's got a rebuilt Dakar Shock an knives waiting to drop in.

Almost there though.

I have the plastic lower fender on mine + a knobby T63 so it would have been a really tight fit.


As for the rear shock: you have ABS on the bike and an external reservoir on the shock, right? I needed to unbolt the ABS box in order to get the reservoir to squeeze between the frame, the engine and the ABS box.



I used a tie down between the bars and the tail to get enough space to work on the parts.


While you're at it, you should also grease the swingarm bushing/bearing.

Hope this helps!

[nomad5326]

It does, thanks. How did u get the exhaust to separate? Maybe mine is just stuck. Did you have to bleed the abs ?

[tomatoe333]

Originally Posted by nomad5326

It does, thanks. How did u get the exhaust to separate? Maybe mine is just stuck. Did you have to bleed the abs ?

Use a deadblow hammer or a mallet to separate the exhaust pieces. Some silicone spray on the support bushings helps. Right side can gets removed straight out to the right, left side can towards the rear of the bike.

It took some finagling, but you should be able to get the remote reservoir and preload adjuster around the ABS plumbing. You do have to remove the knob of the preload adjuster (philips screw in the center). Be prepared to catch a ball bearing and a spring as you pull off the knob.

[Lupin 3rd]

Originally Posted by nomad5326

It does, thanks. How did u get the exhaust to separate? Maybe mine is just stuck. Did you have to bleed the abs ?

ABS: I bled it twice. The first time after attaching the lines, the second time after activating the ABS system (slow speed full hand grab on the brake).

Originally Posted by tomatoe333

You do have to remove the knob of the preload adjuster (philips screw in the center). Be prepared to catch a ball bearing and a spring as you pull off the knob.

Good point there, forgot about that!