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Old 12-07-2012, 11:33 AM   #9616
brailman133
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:09 PM   #9617
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Any idea on how to pull the bearings from the 2 main engine casings? I'm rebuilding the motor but have no die on how to remove those bearings. I've got a slide hammer but they are not budging.
The manual references a special bearing puller from BMW but I'm not going to buy that tool just for 5 bearings.
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:40 PM   #9618
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A bearing puller is a bearing puller is a bearing puller. If you've got a good tool shop around, take your cases with you and see what they've got that will work. You may need to make your own adapters for your specific application, though. Plan B, off to the local machine shop and have them press them out/in. Or the dealer?


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Old 12-08-2012, 07:16 PM   #9619
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Wink I got one!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce H View Post
My vote is for #1, my not need the farkles but will in the futurer. Most likely canister you see is part of the rear shock.
Thanks for the advice guys. I picked up option #1. It is ready to go long distance touring.

Wife and I went for a little ride today. She likes it. My son needs to gets signed up for MSR classes here in Wa... He is trying hard to hide his excitement. I can tell.

One thing I want to do in install the rear mud guard. It was removed and a aluminum chain guard was put on instead. On our ride today it was wet. The entire back of the back of the bike was soaked and dirty. In contrast My R1200GSA is very clean back there. Luckily, he gave me all the original OEM parts, so I will swap it out at some point.

The front springs were replaced with "Race Tech" performance race springs. The seller said it came that way when he bought it. He included the original springs and hardware. Not sure I want to touch it. It all seems very good. However, would like advice as to the pros/cons of the "Race Tech" springs. Anything I should be concerned about?

One other thing... He'd ran synthetic oil. BMW service here doesn't recommend using synthetic in the f650 s because of the wet clutch... I will be changing the oil soon.

BTW: my wife's previous bike was a lowered f650,. She said this one feels more like a "boy bike".. Less feminine. I guess that is good news for my son when he starts riding it. Can't let him be seen on a girls bike I guess.
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:56 PM   #9620
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THe dual spark is rated for synthetic but the single spark is not. It is to do with the No of clutch plates, sounds like the dealer is not telling the whole story or does not know. Since the single spark does not suffer problems running semi synth, why waste the extra money on synthetic

Re the rear guard, I take it you are referring to the possum scraper ? if so it does tend to break

As for the springs, did the PO indicate if he had fitted the racetech emulators as well ?, they would be the item to add rather than go back to the OEM springs although the racetech spring recommendation on spring rate is rather high
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:16 PM   #9621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
THe dual spark is rated for synthetic but the single spark is not. It is to do with the No of clutch plates, sounds like the dealer is not telling the whole story or does not know. Since the single spark does not suffer problems running semi synth, why waste the extra money on synthetic

Re the rear guard, I take it you are referring to the possum scraper ? if so it does tend to break

As for the springs, did the PO indicate if he had fitted the racetech emulators as well ?, they would be the item to add rather than go back to the OEM springs although the racetech spring recommendation on spring rate is rather high
Thanks Wayne.

Yes, the possum scraper. Since I have the oem and the installed part, I'll run with oem until it breaks and replace with after market.. No loss..

Good to know about synthetic. To clear things up... The dealer told me not to run synthetic when we asked a couple of years ago in regards to my wife's single spark f650. I guess, I mis took this to mean all f650s. Good to know...

Yeah the suspension seems fine. I was just wondering if this move is ok. If there are no known problems, I'll run with it.

Wife complained about less wind protection than she had on her older GS. It had a dakar vertical winscreen. I don't think they make them to fit the dual spark bikes. Once my son gets to riding we will see what he thinks. I'm spoiled with my 1200 adventure screen

Thanks everyone. I'll have to post some pics next. Hopefully of the bike in action.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:51 PM   #9622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911fan View Post
A bearing puller is a bearing puller is a bearing puller. If you've got a good tool shop around, take your cases with you and see what they've got that will work. You may need to make your own adapters for your specific application, though. Plan B, off to the local machine shop and have them press them out/in. Or the dealer?


1911fan
I have press for the bearing I can get to, but some of them are pushed into a blind hole in the casing. No access from the other side to push it out.

Will take it to an engineering shop and hear what they say.
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:11 AM   #9623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THX_337 View Post
....... He'd ran synthetic oil. BMW service here doesn't recommend using synthetic in the f650 s because of the wet clutch.......
Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
THe dual spark is rated for synthetic but the single spark is not. It is to do with the No of clutch plates, sounds like the dealer is not telling the whole story or does not know. Since the single spark does not suffer problems running semi synth, why waste the extra money on synthetic

Re the rear guard, I take it you are referring to the possum scraper ? if so it does tend to break
I was told to use synthetic on my single spark and did so for years. Had clutch slip of varying degree, but never really bad. Sometime had some problems getting it in neutral when static with engine running, but nothing riding 2 inches forward didn't solve. After moving to dinosaur oil though it's been beaving a lot better.

The "possum scraper" is just there so that the spray angle is legal.
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:28 AM   #9624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyker View Post
I have press for the bearing I can get to, but some of them are pushed into a blind hole in the casing. No access from the other side to push it out.

Will take it to an engineering shop and hear what they say.
The aluminum cases expand more than steel when heated; The standard procedure on old British motors is to heat them up in a gas grill (when the s.o. is out) and when thoroughly heated, tap the case half upside down on a wood block. The bearing drops right out.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:00 AM   #9625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyker View Post
I have press for the bearing I can get to, but some of them are pushed into a blind hole in the casing. No access from the other side to push it out.

Will take it to an engineering shop and hear what they say.

The trick for this when dealing with old Land Rover transmissions is to find a wood dowel that just barely fits inside the bearing, fill the hole with grease, put the dowel in the hole on top of all that grease and give it a good smack with a hammer. This pushes the bearing up a little with each smack. This can be encouraged by heating the case around where the bearing is with a propane or MAP gas torch.
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:27 PM   #9626
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Another trick....albeit Ive only used it on large bearings on heavy equipment and semis....is to heat up the bearing until its cherry red and then dump ice water on it. Cools it very quickly and usually will damn near fall out on its own.
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:52 PM   #9627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
I was told to use synthetic on my single spark and did so for years. Had clutch slip of varying degree, but never really bad. Sometime had some problems getting it in neutral when static with engine running, but nothing riding 2 inches forward didn't solve. After moving to dinosaur oil though it's been beaving a lot better.
Interesting, I'm finding it hard to shift into neutral. Hopefully, a switch to Dino oil will help. Wife nearly dumped the bike already trying to shift into neutral.

Also looking at options to get an adjustable shift lever. My big foot has issues with the shifter.

TT doesn't seem to offer one. Too bad, they are here in Seattle. . Any other suggestions?
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:14 AM   #9628
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Many Honda models use the same gear lever spline so it comes down to length and bend. I used a steel one to re-bend and made the folding tip a bolt on to make it adjustable in length years ago

Info is here http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/GearLever.html and brake lever here http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/BrakePedal.html
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:08 AM   #9629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THX_337 View Post
Interesting, I'm finding it hard to shift into neutral. Hopefully, a switch to Dino oil will help. Wife nearly dumped the bike already trying to shift into neutral.

Also looking at options to get an adjustable shift lever. My big foot has issues with the shifter.

TT doesn't seem to offer one. Too bad, they are here in Seattle. . Any other suggestions?
I usually just work the clutch lever in first and let it roll an inch or so and that's enough to let it slip into neutral. I'm not really thinking about it when I do it, it's second nature by now. I never force it into neutral when standing still. But I really punish it when downshifting on the move (engine brake). No signs of wear yet in 10 years.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:41 AM   #9630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
I usually just work the clutch lever in first and let it roll an inch or so and that's enough to let it slip into neutral. I'm not really thinking about it when I do it, it's second nature by now. I never force it into neutral when standing still. But I really punish it when downshifting on the move (engine brake). No signs of wear yet in 10 years.
Clutch on my 03 Dakar is now pushing 82K miles with no problems whatsoever, if you don't include the two clutch cables that wore out. BTW, I've always run non-synthetic 20W50 motorcycle oil (BMW or Valvoline) changed at 5K mile intervals with filter.
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