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Old 03-20-2013, 11:50 PM   #10141
Gravel Seeker
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Joined: Apr 2002
Location: Dreary old Norway, dreaming of adventures past
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Dabalina View Post
Has anyone tried the explorer shock from Touratech? As a noob, what riding characteristics can I expect from an upgraded shock? I'm about 215 in my birthday suit. I might also throw in the Touratech progressive springs as well.
Higher end components yields a quicker, more reponsive damper which won't "pack up" when stressed.

The progressive Wirth springs that Touratech sell worked very well for me and my camping gear laden mule for 8 months in Australia. I've been up to 255lbs at the most + riding gear and camping gear.

Total weight... just guessing: ca 340 kg/ 750 lbs
(Rider 115kg, riding gear + luggage 35kg, bike 190 kg)

Touratech TT45 tankbag with side bags
Ortlieb soft cases
Ortliebe roll bag

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Old 03-21-2013, 01:14 PM   #10142
Mr.Dabalina
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@gravelseeker

When the bike is unloaded are the springs too stiff? What weight oil in the forks? Also how much do you weigh of you don't mind me asking? Do you have the stock shock under the butt?

This is my only bike since I was a little kid. And I honestly don't know how bad something is riding if I've never ridden anything else. I like the idea of the Yamaha fork swap, I can chase down the parts if someone had an exact complete list. I wish someone would create a Yamaha fork conversion kit.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:19 PM   #10143
Kainic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Dabalina View Post
@gravelseeker

When the bike is unloaded are the springs too stiff? What weight oil in the forks? Also how much do you weigh of you don't mind me asking? Do you have the stock shock under the butt?

This is my only bike since I was a little kid. And I honestly don't know how bad something is riding if I've never ridden anything else. I like the idea of the Yamaha fork swap, I can chase down the parts if someone had an exact complete list. I wish someone would create a Yamaha fork conversion kit.
House of Horsepower was suppose to have some type of offering but not sure if it ever materialized?


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Old 03-21-2013, 11:25 PM   #10144
isgila
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...... I wish someone would create a Yamaha fork conversion kit.[/QUOTE]

You don't need a conversion kit.. The whole process is almost a direct swap. The headache only starts when you want to retain your abs, 19' rims, steering lock and brembo brakes.
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:52 AM   #10145
JDRadman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kainic View Post
House of Horsepower was suppose to have some type of offering but not sure if it...
Kainic,

I believe it did materialize...I sent all of the data to Richard at HOH a few months ago. I am sure he would like to hear from anyone interested in building/doing the swap. He may even have some forks on the shelf. At one time he kept a couple of different sets of springs too.

Good luck with the conversion. By far the best mod I ever did to my GS.

Rad
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:05 AM   #10146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Dabalina View Post
@gravelseeker

When the bike is unloaded are the springs too stiff? What weight oil in the forks? Also how much do you weigh of you don't mind me asking? Do you have the stock shock under the butt?

This is my only bike since I was a little kid. And I honestly don't know how bad something is riding if I've never ridden anything else. I like the idea of the Yamaha fork swap, I can chase down the parts if someone had an exact complete list. I wish someone would create a Yamaha fork conversion kit.
In a word; no.
But I'm kinda easy, just letting it live it's own life underneath me.
Like I said I was 115kg at the most. On the trip around Oz I started out at 110kg and came home weighing 92kg.

It's been 10 years since I replaced the fork springs but as far as I remember the biggest difference is that they don't bottom out and feel less bouncy than the stock springs.
Touratech says to use SAE15WT and 0,5ltr per leg which is perfect since a bottle usually is 1 ltr.
I did run the stock Showa untill a guy helping me make a new top bushing let gas out of it. I rode almost 5 cm lower after that, but was still ridable.

I rode the lowered Showa for 3 more years before getting an Öhlins. This was at about 50.000km or so (can't recall exactly). Also had the forks rebuilt by a racing suspension specialist (who build Ullevålseters Dakar forks among others). He said the stock fork legs (inners and outers) were 100% straight, with no damage what so ever - they actually looked very good. All the wear parts inside were totally worn out though.
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2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 03-24-2013, 07:37 AM   #10147
KG6BWS
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Thinking I might need a new voltage regulator.

Charged my battery up full and reinstalled it. With the bike idling, Im getting 12.4 volts at the battery, 3000 rpms gets it up to 12.5/12.6. Turn the hibeam on and it drops down about .3/.4 volts.

What do you guys think?? R/R, stator or battery??
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:24 AM   #10148
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No sure, but you should get about 12,3-12,5V on the battery and 14,3-14,5V with the engine running
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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It's the African ant eater ritual !
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:07 AM   #10149
1911fan
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Tankbg and possum scraper for sale: Linky

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...0#post21022480
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:08 PM   #10150
KG6BWS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
No sure, but you should get about 12,3-12,5V on the battery and 14,3-14,5V with the engine running
THats where my problem is. Getting about 12.2 or so from the battery, but only 12.5 or so with the engine running and at 3000rpm's. Just not sure if it would be a bad R/R or stator. I know how to test a car alternator, just not sure on a bike.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:26 PM   #10151
tomatoe333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KG6BWS View Post
THats where my problem is. Getting about 12.2 or so from the battery, but only 12.5 or so with the engine running and at 3000rpm's. Just not sure if it would be a bad R/R or stator. I know how to test a car alternator, just not sure on a bike.
My bet's on the R/R, or a bad connection between the R/R and the battery. Usually if the stator goes it's only one winding, and you'll get some voltage out of the regulator when you rev the engine.

If you do want to check the stator, unplug the connector in the harness going to the R/R that has the three yellow wires. Check the resistance between the three yellow wires going back towards the engine (1-2, 2-3, 1-3), and between each wire and ground. There should be low (like an ohm or two) of resistance between the wires, and very high (megohms) between each wire and ground. You can also start the bike up and measure the AC voltage between the yellow wires. Should be approximately equal, and something over 12 volts.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:52 AM   #10152
Barnman
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Relocated foot rests

With all the talk on foot rest positions, I thought this picture might help.

I took it part way through the swap from the standard location (Right) to the TT relocated position (Left).

What you can't see is the relocated footrest is also higher. I had initial lowered them for comfort, but found them catching the ruts so have now gone higher. Not as comfortable but beats falling off.

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Old 03-25-2013, 09:00 AM   #10153
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If possible I'd use the pegs on the right - the TT ones are really soft (glad I wore MX boots though... they're not that soft ).
I just got the sloppy seconds. Same rock was first struck by an airhead right in front of me and I ended up leaving tire tracks across the airhead's tank/ map before both of us ended up in a pile on the ground. I've replaced at least 2 - if not 3 RHS pegs over the years.



The crash also bent my disc so it was rubbing on the caliper. Wasn't just fun riding home without front brakes when you're used to having them...



The shifter is also soft, good thing is that it bends right back and works flawlessly for at least another 8 years and counting

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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 03-25-2013, 09:08 AM   #10154
LoJack
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Yeah, my TT pegs look like that, too. I'd like to swap them out sometime for some PivotPegs, but the location is great. I just want to recover my seat so there is no scoop to take advantage of the position better.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:20 AM   #10155
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Wow....I've already bent mine as well, but nowhere close to that, in other words I've always been able to fix them again :O
But then again, I am only riding my 650gs since last year.

Other than that, the pics from Gravel Seeker and Barnman show one thing I noticed before.
There are 2 types of TT Rallye footpegs. The ones Gravel Seeker are extended to the front, barnman's are extended to the rear. I myself have two sets, one of each kind.
Yep, quite a useless fact, but I am still wondering why....


And yeah, I can confirm what Gravel Seeker said about the shifter
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