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Old 01-27-2012, 06:19 PM   #1276
Andrew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardo Kuhn View Post
What you need more than anything is a Bike that FITS you, since the one your are riding now is to small for you.
And here's some good advice, for road bikes at least: http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=41
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:58 PM   #1277
RxZ
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Originally Posted by Ricardo Kuhn View Post
Tell us how tall you are as well as the length of your legs (inseam length) and we tell you what frame size you need, Believe me I much rather ride on a crappy bike that is my size than a super highend one that fits you like a child's tricycle.

Ps: about the seatpost, you better stop riding this bike, before you bend and/or break the frame since will be really difficult to sell then
About 5'9"-5'10" and roughly 32 inch inseam.
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Old 01-27-2012, 08:22 PM   #1278
Ricardo Kuhn
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Originally Posted by RxZ View Post
About 5'9"-5'10" and roughly 32 inch inseam.
Do you want a mountain bike...??

If that is the case you need a size medium or better known as a size 17"/18" (17 to 18 inches measure from the center of the cranks to the top of the top tube {even if is sloped}) over even better you can measure the "virtual" top tube by measuring a horizontal line (Virtual) from center of the head tube (at the upper part) to the center of the seat post, you are looking for around 23" (a little longer if you want high performance a little shorter if you want more comfort and a more upright posture.
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Old 01-28-2012, 05:25 AM   #1279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardo Kuhn View Post
Do you want a mountain bike...??

If that is the case you need a size medium or better known as a size 17"/18" (17 to 18 inches measure from the center of the cranks to the top of the top tube {even if is sloped}) over even better you can measure the "virtual" top tube by measuring a horizontal line (Virtual) from center of the head tube (at the upper part) to the center of the seat post, you are looking for around 23" (a little longer if you want high performance a little shorter if you want more comfort and a more upright posture.
Listen to Ricky.

I can fit on pretty much anything 16-18" depending on geometry. I tend to go smaller rather than larger for off-roading. Lighter, stiffer, 'easier to maneuver' (ie crotchetal clearance when you really, really need it) etc.

First thing I thougth when I saw RxZ's photo is 'bike's too small.' So whatever size that is, go one bigger.

M
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:35 AM   #1280
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And here's some good advice, for road bikes at least: http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=41
That doesn't work for everybody. It's just one man's opinion.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:55 AM   #1281
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Fit depends on the geometry philosophy of the builder(s). What's described above works for a bike using compact geometry i.e. many modern road and mountain bikes. "Classic" geometry,that is most bikes with a horizontal top tube will fit best using the method listed above from the Rivendell site.

Check this out. Look through and if you know your numbers see if you'd be comfortable on a bike built to these methods. Surprising.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:58 AM   #1282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardo Kuhn View Post
What you need more than anything is a Bike that FITS you, since the one your are riding now is to small for you.
What he said! Though I must admit your parents had terrific insight since you actually Growed into (and over) it.

Bicycles are addictive, don't get caught up in the "Keeping up with the Jones's" or else you'll be weighing grams and spending your money on expensive components made of Unobtainium Mars Metals. Hold that thought, I gotta run out and finish my Scandium Niner Hardtail assembly....
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:50 AM   #1283
Ricardo Kuhn
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Originally Posted by anotherguy View Post
Fit depends on the geometry philosophy of the builder(s). What's described above works for a bike using compact geometry i.e. many modern road and mountain bikes. "Classic" geometry,that is most bikes with a horizontal top tube will fit best using the method listed above from the Rivendell site.
.
I did not want to get to complicated and ask to measure seat/head angles, bottom bracket height, seat stay length, suspension design, material, riding style, preferences, designer philosophy, etc and that why I give a ball park size that will fit for most usage.
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:19 AM   #1284
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Originally Posted by Ricardo Kuhn View Post
I did not want to get to complicated and ask to measure seat/head angles, bottom bracket height, seat stay length, suspension design, material, riding style, preferences, designer philosophy, etc and that why I give a ball park size that will fit for most usage.
I think you'll also notice that many manufactures have adopted more of the S, M, L and XL approach to frame size. Preferring to fit the bike using components (stem, seatpost, etc) instead. Of course the custom frame builders still do it the old fashioned way
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:26 AM   #1285
Ricardo Kuhn
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I think you'll also notice that many manufactures have adopted more of the S, M, L and XL approach to frame size. Preferring to fit the bike using components (stem, seatpost, etc) instead. Of course the custom frame builders still do it the old fashioned way
Well Ian, with the "Sloped" toptubes, measuring "real sizes" gets kind of difficult, Personally I prefer the toptube measurement since that variable "can not be change" (adjusted with stem and seat pack on the post, but not enhance or shorten) Yes the angles on the frame will play a roll but is not as critical for this application.
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:55 AM   #1286
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watch out!

beginning or prospective bicyclists browsing this thread and stumbling onto the last several posts should be aware that while some of GP's ADVICE is sound, the actual Rivendell sizing CHART is only good for sizing a Rivendell!
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:00 AM   #1287
Ricardo Kuhn
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Originally Posted by surly357 View Post
beginning or prospective bicyclists browsing this thread and stumbling onto the last several posts should be aware that while some of GP's ADVICE is sound, the actual Rivendell sizing CHART is only good for sizing a Rivendell!
Amen
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:19 AM   #1288
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I think it's exactly the difficulty in applying the measurement that makes it easier to have four basic sizes. It's also a question of parts requirement too. It's not easy or cost effective to have a frame in 8 our 9 different sizes if 4 will cover 90% of the market for that bicycle. Anyhow, the short answer is manufactures need to maximize profit and if they can reduce the number of parts required, it allows them to buy at better prices, maintain a stock of parts that can be used across their product line and so on. The price the consumer pays for this is fewer choices at the time of purchase (not just components but sizing too).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardo Kuhn View Post
Well Ian, with the "Sloped" toptubes, measuring "real sizes" gets kind of difficult, Personally I prefer the toptube measurement since that variable "can not be change" (adjusted with stem and seat pack on the post, but not enhance or shorten) Yes the angles on the frame will play a roll but is not as critical for this application.
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:22 AM   #1289
RxZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surly357 View Post
beginning or prospective bicyclists browsing this thread and stumbling onto the last several posts should be aware that while some of GP's ADVICE is sound, the actual Rivendell sizing CHART is only good for sizing a Rivendell!
And although I have had my bike for several years, I still consider myself a beginner. (A friend of mine has ridden in one WEEKEND what I have put on this bike in 6 years!) That said, two new trails have opened recently near me, and I want to get back into it. Now that I know there are different frame sizes within one brand, the only option I have is to go to one of the local bike shops, and sit on a bunch of different bikes in whatever my price range ends up being. Knowing all the angles and lengths is great info, but not so much for someone like me. I agree that fit is one of the most important things to shop for in a bike. I really wish I would have known that when I bought this bike (and I wish the salesman would have spent more time talking me through it, it was obvious I was buying, not just looking). So, since I know nothing about what the angles should be, going and sitting on them is the best idea I have heard yet

Oh, second best idea... The best idea I have heard considering bicycles: HAVE FUN!!!
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:29 AM   #1290
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So, since I know nothing about what the angles should be, going and sitting on them is the best idea I have heard yet

Oh, second best idea... The best idea I have heard considering bicycles: HAVE FUN!!!
Yup. Fun is the important part.

Also, ask around about shops in your area. mtbr.com and pinkbike have shop recommendations too--just be careful with them since what works for someone else might not work for you. Ask if there's a shop that rents AND will allow you to apply your rental fee toward your purchase (there are several shops in my area that do this)--it's a great way to really try out a bike before dropping a load of cash on it.
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