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Old 08-02-2011, 01:26 AM   #16
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Thomas
 
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Joined: Apr 2002
Location: Dreary old Norway, dreaming of adventures past
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattomoto View Post
Man, I had a lot of those same symptoms and luckily, mine was a loose positive battery cable . It would die periodicly, wacky odometer and clock. Sometimes it ran perfect. Since someone on here (sorry, forget who) suggested the cables, it has been fine (over 5000 miles). I did not even think about those as the last time I put a battery in it, I put aircraft nuts and locktite on the bolts!

Not saying yours is as easy as mine, but sometimes its the simple stuff.
One can do that and fit quick realease contacts to the battery cables as well. That way it's much easier to plug the battery in or take it out too. I'd also check the ignition switch/ coloumn/ barrell whatever under the key. Mine's acting up at the moment causing misfiring when I ride and intermittent loss of power when I hit the starter button (before it completele conked out and won't even let me start it)
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:57 AM   #17
bilgepump
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the trouble code that came up on a diagnostic is "missing +12v terminal" so it's not surprising that the symptoms might be similar for a bike with bad batt connections. i originally suspected batt connections as well so i made sure mine were *pristine* and the problem kept happening.

basically the computer is screwed up and at random intervals it thinks the battery has disappeared so it cuts the engine off. cycling the key resets this until it happens again. if your batt connections are perfect and the engine keeps cutting out and tachometer doing the weird double-rpms thing, then it may well be a bad ECU like it was in my case.
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Old 08-02-2011, 11:10 AM   #18
africadero
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nice to know

very interesting read, You can never know enough about your bike. thanks for the explanation
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:58 AM   #19
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Thomas
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bilgepump View Post
the trouble code that came up on a diagnostic is "missing +12v terminal" so it's not surprising that the symptoms might be similar for a bike with bad batt connections. i originally suspected batt connections as well so i made sure mine were *pristine* and the problem kept happening.

basically the computer is screwed up and at random intervals it thinks the battery has disappeared so it cuts the engine off. cycling the key resets this until it happens again. if your batt connections are perfect and the engine keeps cutting out and tachometer doing the weird double-rpms thing, then it may well be a bad ECU like it was in my case.
Guessing the outlined bit was for me
Everything's fine when I press the bottom part of the ignition forward towards the headlight, but it loses all power once I let go. Pretty sure it's got nothing to do with the ECU. I ripped out the entire dash when the bike was new and put in a Touratech IMO computer, so I have no tacho.

I suspect alot of ECU's around the world get replaced on a hunch or because the mechanic can't find any other explanation. Doesn't necessarily mean there is no other explanation though.

Couldn't "missing +12v terminal" for example be a result of a damaged battery where the "+ terminal" is the not properly connected inside the battery

Or there could be some hidden damages to one or more wires somewhere (I've had several over the years get pinched between frame and forks, under sprocket cover, etc). They're often a bitch to locate, but easy enough to fix once you find them.

I'm sure you've eliminated those before going the route of replacing the ECU though

(Had a tiny wire get trapped under the sprocket cover once after an oil change and the wire would short on the chain and blow a fuse to the dash (everthing but the headlight). I'd replace the fuse and everthing was working fine untill I started rolling again. The chain made contact and it shorted again. And again. I couldn't for the life of me figure it out since everything was "normal" when I was stationary).
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Old 12-08-2011, 12:42 PM   #20
easyg1409
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I had the exact symptoms

I've just come across this post by pure accident but wanted to add a comment since I had the exact same problems described in the original post with my 2006 BMW F650GS DAKAR. Doubling of RPM, intermittent cutting out and then firing up again, odometer and clock resets etc.

The first symptom I had, which may be unrelated, was my ABS light came on. I fiddles with the ABS cable and it continued to work fine. I mention the ABS because the next problems related to my tachometer and speedometer, both I run off the rear ABS.

I replaced the rear ABS cable but I my problems were solved when my sealed battery eventually died. I suspect the battery was trying to let me know that all wasn't well by throwing up the strange symtoms, but the day eventually came when it went from functioning to being as dead as a dodo!

So anyone else experiencing the problems originally described check your battery.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:32 PM   #21
TheColonel
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I have just had the same problems on my 07 Dakar.
The ABS light has been coming on intermittently but usually goes off again by itself.(don't know if this is related or not).
Then this weekend on a rough road with strong washboard bumps at speed the bike misfired very briefly and then tacho read twice the actual rpm.
I stopped and turned it off and on again and all reset OK.
Then a little further on it happened again, the tacho reading twice what it should read. So just pulled in the clutch and coasted a little till the RPM's dropped to idle and it seemed to continue as normal after that.
I have not had a chance to look at the bike since getting home but does any one have any more info on this problem?
I also have a new battery in it, only 3 months old.

Cheers

G.
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:08 AM   #22
greer
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First things first: Make sure those battery cables are CLEAN and TIGHT.

The bible for your bike is www.f650.com. Nice folks there, too. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Sarah
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:31 AM   #23
TheColonel
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An update.... all be it a little slow..

took the advice given and what do you know....

it worked.

Loose battery terminal.....glad it was an easy fix.

Thanks everyone.
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:22 AM   #24
CObot
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Location: Denver, CO
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I experienced the same symptoms described by OP (high RPM readings followed by engine dying). The problem seemed isolated to wet conditions (after a wash or riding on wet roads). As others have mentioned, my root cause ended up being the worn wiring harness behind the suspension adjustment knob. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, as I know I wouldn't have managed to isolate the problem without google leading me here!



One other note: In my case, the GS-911 tool did not really help in diagnosing this particular problem. Here are the codes I read from the bike right after clearing all codes and then experiencing the failure:

821: Speed sensor (rpm), signal implausible.
This fault occured 40 times.
The fault is not present now.
304: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, No signal or signal
intermittent
This fault occured 6 times.
The fault is not present now.
1280: Speed signal (vehicle speed), signal implausible.
This problem occured once.
The fault is not present now.

CObot screwed with this post 09-08-2013 at 09:28 AM
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