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Old 05-29-2012, 08:20 AM   #31
jonfen
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Joined: May 2012
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
Oddometer: 2
Question Jimbee, after a few thousand miles, did it work?

"After a few thousand miles I'll provide an update." Well? Did it work?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbee View Post
Alright - please no comments on my lack of artistic JB weld abilities.

New Switch:


Taped off where I didn't want to get JB weld


Mixed some JB QuickDry up and set to work - messy...


I waited two minutes and then removed the tape...




So that's what I did. After a few thousand miles I'll provide an update.

Cheers! JB
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:09 AM   #32
jimbee OP
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welcome jonfen!

update:

- after 4,000 miles the new neutral switch showed no signs of leaking

- after an unfortunate incident where engine was left running on centre stand for an extended period of time causing the engine to get very very hot, the neutral switch began to leak (amongst other problems)
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:45 PM   #33
jonfen
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Thumb Two out of two mechanics agree...

Good to note. According to the J-B Weld Company Website it should be good up to 500 F.

I actually called airhead guru Ron Schmidt at the Bavarian Motorcycle Workshop and he recommended doing the exact same thing to my existing switch since it still works aside from the leak. He mentioned the new switches come with a silicon coating on them, but he still suggests J-B Weld on those.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbee View Post
welcome jonfen!

update:

- after 4,000 miles the new neutral switch showed no signs of leaking

- after an unfortunate incident where engine was left running on centre stand for an extended period of time causing the engine to get very very hot, the neutral switch began to leak (amongst other problems)
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:18 AM   #34
disston
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The correct torque for the engine mounting nuts is 55 ft/lbs.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:31 AM   #35
brittrunyon
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Rebuilt trani & JB'd neutral switch

After 12,000 miles (trip to Panama last winter)...............no leaks

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Old 05-31-2012, 06:21 AM   #36
One Less Harley
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do yourself a favor instead of using the BMW switch and having to use JB weld, just get the aftermarket switch Huckys sell...it don't leak and no modifications needed, plus it's cheaper.
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:19 AM   #37
jimbee OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
Rebuilt trani & JB'd neutral switch

After 12,000 miles (trip to Panama last winter)...............no leaks
Nice JB artistry!

OLH - thanks for the heads up
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:21 PM   #38
Beemerguru
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This came up a couple month's ago at 2 of the local BMW dealers in the Bay area..they had a run of neutral switch returns. After a few thousand miles, a leak developed between the plastic and metal. The OEM German version could go 30-50K miles and never leak..some of the Chinese versions didn't get 3K before they puked.

If the box doesn't say made in de fatherland, I put a ring of epoxy around the metal/plastic ring and put it on the shelf to cure.

Worked so far..no returns in a couple years.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:58 PM   #39
One Less Harley
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repro one on mine has been holding up well so far this season, which is more than I can say for the POS over priced BMW one. So less money well spent.
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:46 PM   #40
mspa
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I'm going to ask a stupid question.

My switch works fine. It has some grey stuff on it that looks like JB Weld, put on by the guy I got the bike from when he installed. Is there any value in using carb cleaner spray to clean the area off (when engine is cold), dry, clean up . . . then apply some more JB weld, avoiding the terminals or case? The stuff on there now is not smooth, and I'm wondering if in the pockets and such maybe there is one small path the oil is coming out of.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:36 PM   #41
DaveBall
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If it isn't leaking, leave it alone. When/If it starts to leak, get a new one and apply the JB Weld to it. Or, when the one you have starts to leak, take it out and clean the hell out of it and apply JB Weld.

When these things start to leak, they do it very slowly. More like a weeping. I had one leaking for 2 years and only topped up the tranny a few times. Total over 2 years I think I went to thru less that 4 or 5 ounces of fluid.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:09 PM   #42
One Less Harley
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really...just buy the brass version it's cheaper and don't leak!!!
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:19 PM   #43
mspa
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It is leaking. More now than about 2 weeks ago. The clutch job was done last Spring, so not many miles on there. I should add that it doesn't leak enough to leave a spot on the ground. Tho, I can't say how much is coming out under full pressure on the highway. If I push the bike hard on the highway, I may notice a drop form on one side under the oil pan, where it collects. So it's not something that has to be done today. But obviously, has to be dealt with at some point, or I have to make a habit of checking the trans fluid level.

It seems like these things should come in a multi-pak . . .
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

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mspa screwed with this post 09-24-2012 at 08:28 PM
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:35 AM   #44
mspa
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Anyone try Ultra Black?
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:03 PM   #45
mspa
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Well, I did. Used Permatex Ultra Black to patch the JB Weld that was on the switch. I cleaned off the switch with CRC electronics cleaner when it was warm (cool enough to touch). Let that dry and noticed some areas where the JB appeared to not have been applied well. I used some thin wood coffee sticks from work (1/8" wide) to apply the Ultra Black. That was two days ago. No leak of any kind so far. I may not be a permanent fix, but I figure it buys time until I order some brass switches from Moto-bins, or somewhere local maybe?
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