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Old 05-24-2009, 09:00 AM   #151
PirateJohn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniii
We bought one that attached to a standard ceiling vent. It used a pressurized bottle to get the water up there. The fan had a cone that slung water into the foam mesh. It was very effective. It was pretty cheap too.

Got a manufacturer's name or a source?
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:01 AM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PirateJohn
Got a manufacturer's name or a source?
It was in 1982. I did a google search yesterday, to no avail, but I'll look again.

update - Found it: http://www.turbokool.com/
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Daniii screwed with this post 05-24-2009 at 09:39 AM
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Old 05-24-2009, 08:42 PM   #153
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Old 05-25-2009, 07:49 AM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PirateJohn
Sean, tell us about evaporative coolers. Are there any specifically for motorhomes?
I've only seen the Turbokool as specifically for RVs. I was however casting an eye at these 12-volt coolers....especially the smallest 14" fan model. Here is an installation story for both Turbokool and the Southwest Solar model.

Of course since I received my box-fan swamp cooler, it has been rainy & cool here all week. I was able to use it briefly on the day I received it, and the air exiting the cooler was 20 degrees below ambient (90 degrees in, 70 out). But I didn't get a chance to see how it performed for a full day of 90-degree temps.

HTH
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Old 05-25-2009, 02:06 PM   #155
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Thanks guys. Does an evaporative cooler make your interior damp?
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Old 05-25-2009, 02:28 PM   #156
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Coverting a bus is not a simple job to be done right,I helped a bus conversion attempt 64'GMC Fishbowl,and after everything was installed/fabbed beds,composting toilet,tanks kitchen etc... the bus, when driving wallowed from side to side so bad it was unsafe to drive, so hours and $$$$$$$ into the suspension, it still drove horrible.Looking back the main culprit for the bus' failure was our lack of skill and poor planning and probably being on a meager budget too
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Old 05-25-2009, 04:23 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PirateJohn
Thanks guys. Does an evaporative cooler make your interior damp?
We had an evap cooler on our house in Tucson. No AC. Except in August (Monsoon season) it was great. It helps that when its over 100F, the dew point is like 4F.
The adobe construction of our house was great in shifting the solar load to the evening, when we could use the heat. An RV might be a different story with much lass mass.
If you use it in a dry climate, where it works, I suspect dampness is not an issue.
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Old 05-25-2009, 06:05 PM   #158
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Old 05-25-2009, 07:02 PM   #159
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Here's what you want buddy.
Just restored.
http://www.charlescrail.com/used-car...e59f8dc820576e

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Old 05-25-2009, 07:17 PM   #160
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Beautiful motorhome.

There is a reason the Airstreams are sought after.

Although the bedroom is beautiful. I would not want to sleep in it. I want dark, dark, dark.

One of the problems with our camper was that over the cab window. Most of todays campers have no forward window.
Nothing like the sun blazing in at 5 am...
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:58 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hateithere
Coverting a bus is not a simple job to be done right,I helped a bus conversion attempt 64'GMC Fishbowl,and after everything was installed/fabbed beds,composting toilet,tanks kitchen etc... the bus, when driving wallowed from side to side so bad it was unsafe to drive, so hours and $$$$$$$ into the suspension, it still drove horrible.Looking back the main culprit for the bus' failure was our lack of skill and poor planning and probably being on a meager budget too

I looked into doing a bus conversion for years. Still look into it every so often, just in case.

Folks that do a bus conversion usually talk in terms of taking a year or three, full-time, to do the work and a cost, not including the chassis, of around $100K.

No, it's not for the faint of heart.

Our fellow inmate here that converted the school bus seems to have done an unusually good job. Just words to the wise.
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:01 PM   #162
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Country Coach?

Looks nice and maneuverable.
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:21 AM   #163
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One thing to do when considering a classic coach is to buy it from someone who used it. Coaches that sit for years on end require expensive repairs. You may take a little more time and a little more $$ and buy that classic coach from someone who uses the heck out of it and is just ready for an upgrade to a newer coach. My wife and I hopefully will be in that position in a few years.

Also, when you do this try and get a sense for the owner's mechanical attitude towards the coach. Someone who just does not use a system (like the AC) because it has a problem and costs $$ to get it fixed is someone I would run from quick. What else has he neglected, or just put a band-aid on?

Our coach, even at 33 years old, works perfectly. Every switch, every system works as designed, or better because of being upgraded. If you find a coach like this, you will step into it just needing to stay on top of normal repairs and maintenance that comes with use/time, not an expensive restoration job.

Also keep in mind that having a coach painted can easily cost you $10k. How many people buy a car with bad paint and think they are getting a deal and they will just have it painted. After getting some quotes, they just live with it. If you have a buddy that does it for a living and will work with you, great, but if not, make sure you take the exterior finish into consideration. Mine needs a new coat of paint, but I do have a friend that paints all my stuff and I take care of all his mechanical issues. It is a win win for both of us. Doing it yourself in the drive way most of the time will look worse when done than if you just left it alone.

Just a side note. If you already have a classic coach I can not say enough about the Firestone Ride-Rite suspension air bags. I installed a set all around on my coach this year and the difference they made in ride and handling is nothing short of incredible. (Leaf springs sag after 30+ years) I put Bilsteins on a few years ago and it helped, but the air bags, wow! I can drive down the twisties now without the rig wollowing in the corners. Rough roads have much less effect on the coach as well. Well worth the $500 and about 5 hours to install.
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:32 AM   #164
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Originally Posted by Sasquatch
One thing to do when considering a classic coach is to buy it from someone who used it. Coaches that sit for years on end require expensive repairs.

Sasquatch has a good handle on things. I'd like to add my $.02 as well.

With our Bluebird the previous owners were not particularly swift mechanically but they had the thing serviced by the book at a place that specialized in Bluebirds. Some serious money changed hands back in the day.

- House electrics: These days we are so used to microprocessor-controlled systems that younger folks don't even remember when everything operated with electro-mechanical relays. Sticking relays can be really frustrating to diagnose on an RV. First of all, you have to find them, and it's tough getting reliable electrical diagrams for many coaches. Secondly, relays and fuses are often hidden in the damnedest places. With that said, sometimes just flipping the switch repeatedly and driving the vehicle does indeed knock the rust out of the circuit and the next thing you know it's working again.

The parts for a lot of this isn't that bad cost-wise, but the time involved will eat you alive if you hire someone else to troubleshoot wanky electrical systems.

Just take your time and be patient and you'll figure out 99% of your electrical problems. And don't be afraid to rewire a circuit if needed rather than troubleshoot every little inch.

- Engine, transmission, suspension, brakes. We are all gearheads, and most of this speaks for itself. Do, however, expect to put new steering tires on most vehicles, especially buses and large Class A's. And if you find a rear-engined mh with engine or transmission issues you might have a bargain, but you'd better have a game plan before money changes hands. Many truck garages won't mess with a bus because of the specialized nature of the beast.

- Plumbing leaks. If it's an RV, then you likely have a sewer or fresh water leak somewhere. We had some nasty toilet odors; I rebuilt a ton of things to discover that the only thing really wrong with our septic system was that someone left the wax ring gasket out when they replaced the toilet. Fresh water system was another matter and I re-engineered a chunk of that because lines going in and out of the tank had been leaking for years.

- Structural leaks. These can be a biggie because if you have water coming into a wall or a ceiling then you may have structural damage and mold. You do need to get a handle on leaks before you do anything else.

- House electrical systems - don't be too surprised if you wind up redoing quite a bit. Technology has changed in 20 years and wiring deteriorates. Be careful and learn safe practices - more than one person has caught their RV on fire from poor electrical repairs. Plenty of batteries are a good idea and this is an area where attitudes have changed over the years.

- Flooring. Your carpeting is probably nasty on an older coach. We replaced most of our carpeting with laminated flooring, hardwood up front and cork in the rear. I'd do it again in a flash. When you pull the older carpet out look for wood rot and water leaks and repair and seal accordingly.

- Heating and A/C. Overhead A/C units are usually pretty simple - if they are dead then throw them out and replace. Suburban propane heaters and electric heaters are also pretty simple - mine came back to operation with some mileage and use. If you can find a good gas heater guy (Texas licenses them; I don't know about other states) then hang onto him. Most gas heater issues turn out to be pretty simple, like a hidden gas detector that is turned off. If you have a bus or Class A then don't spend a lot of time getting the dashboard A/C to work - expect to run the generator and the house A/C when you are on the road on a hot day (with the engine and radiator at the rear you'd be surprised how cool things often are up front).

- RV refrigerators: Very expensive to replace correctly. Mine ran almost $2K when everything was said and done for 'fridge and labor.

- Generators: Should be very reliable but expensive to repair if they are acting up. Beware, because they often get neglected. Definitely test yours before money changes hands.

Good luck!
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:48 AM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PirateJohn
Country Coach?

Looks nice and maneuverable.
Yes, it's a 2000 Intrige. (sp)? Next time I see him I'll get a pic of the battery compartment. He just enlarged it and put in a bunch of new battery storage.
He recently tested it. He had 2 crock pots going all day. Two tvs, most of the lights left on. The thing ran for two days on battery.
He has that circulating heat system that is really cool.
His water capacity is 150 gallons with 150 grey and 100 black.
The motorhome and trailer weigh 38k he has a 350 cummins to pull it.
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