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Old 01-08-2010, 02:18 PM   #151
CodeMonkee OP
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So I went riding yesterday. Between the holidays and looking for a job and the weather, I haven't had much chance to ride. At least it wasn't raining yesterday and it was almost 50 degrees.

Anyway, just another musing; I have noticed that the steering damper seems to have broken in a little. Between that and getting used to it, I think it is just about right at the lowest (slow) setting for on the street as it isn't that noticeable yet is just enough to quell the twitchiness that is there without it. Off the road, at about the middle setting or maybe a little more, it works well and keeps me from working so hard when running over obstacles.

I don't know if I mentioned it or not, but I did put a 12 tooth sprocket on the bike and while it cuts down on the top end by quite a bit, I can still keep up with traffic. There is minimal effect off-road though, except I do prefer it as it slows it down just enough to where I can creep along if I wish. The only real downside there is that between the sprocket, the Rekluse and airing down the tires, I have to be careful in first gear when climbing hills to not pop wheelies which the bike will do sometimes if I have to stop and then start while sitting down.
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Old 01-08-2010, 06:34 PM   #152
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Have you thought about the billet throttle tube with 3 different cams? It sounds like this in conjunction with the map switch will be a great combo.
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Old 01-09-2010, 06:30 AM   #153
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Upshift Codemonkey! You have a big torquey engine, autoclutch and geared way down. Take advantage of what you have and let it work for you. Don't worry about the clutch slipping. It can take it for hundreds of hours if the Rekluse is set up well.
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Old 01-09-2010, 08:35 AM   #154
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Nice bike CM. What stock idle setting and how do you change it? I am looking at the 390 for a future purchase but want a bike that will idle closer to 1K rather than 2K (like my 610). I used to have a KTM 625 and it had a high idle with a tall 1st gear. It has been 25 years (and 70 lbs) since I did any technical off-roading on a 74 Husky CR250MAG. Couple that with the seat height of modern bikes (except the Scorpa LT) it gets interesting when I put the knobbies to good use. I am going to see what it takes to lower my idle a bit (1700 now).
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:29 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06Z
Have you thought about the billet throttle tube with 3 different cams? It sounds like this in conjunction with the map switch will be a great combo.
I have thought about getting one for my Ducati, but I don't feel I need it for my Husaberg. The Throttle is very linear and controllable.
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:31 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpgroom
Nice bike CM. What stock idle setting and how do you change it? I am looking at the 390 for a future purchase but want a bike that will idle closer to 1K rather than 2K (like my 610). I used to have a KTM 625 and it had a high idle with a tall 1st gear. It has been 25 years (and 70 lbs) since I did any technical off-roading on a 74 Husky CR250MAG. Couple that with the seat height of modern bikes (except the Scorpa LT) it gets interesting when I put the knobbies to good use. I am going to see what it takes to lower my idle a bit (1700 now).
IIRC the stock setting is about 1600 or 1700. I set it down closer to 1000 to 1200. Just enough so that when there is a load on it the engine won't die and it doesn't sound like it is laboring. There is a simple knob near the injector housing that makes it easy to change.
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:33 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LILBIT
Upshift Codemonkey! You have a big torquey engine, autoclutch and geared way down. Take advantage of what you have and let it work for you. Don't worry about the clutch slipping. It can take it for hundreds of hours if the Rekluse is set up well.
I like it the way it is. The only time I have to worry about popping a wheelie unintentionally is when I am starting out from a stop.
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:00 PM   #158
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BTW - even with the 12 tooth sprocket, the bike is still capable of 90+ MPH indicated. I had to back off or run into the back of a truck so I don't know what the top speed is yet. It seems that at cruising RPMs on the highway, it now puts along at 60 to 65 MPH, whereas before it seemed to be about 5 to 10 MPH faster. It is hard to tell because there is no tach, so I have to gauge it by ear and feel. Just the same, it is nice to know I can push the bike to get out of the way of traffic if I have to - 90 MPH is plenty fast enough for any roads I will be on with that bike.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:08 AM   #159
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Yesterday I was doing some maintenance to the Hussy. I had the plate zip tied to the short bracket from the fender (I took off the long one because it would just get torn off), and when I went into Tasky's last week they recommended the Enduro Engineering license plate holder.

http://www.mxsouth.com/enduroenginee...ate-holder.htm



Not rocket science, just a fairly flexible piece of thick plastic with holes drilled in the right spots and some nylock nuts and allen screws. Not my plate is less likely to get bent up (as it usually does when riding off-road) or worse, lost.

Anyway, by the time I had done some other work on the bike and was putting stuff away, I was ready to put the bike away too. While I had it out I thought I would check the lights since it was getting dark. I noticed that the headlight is aimed way too high - especially on brights - as in ten feet up a telephone pole high. And this was without me on the bike (I weigh 250# so I do cause the rear of the bike to sag a bit, and the front is then up a bit).

I guess I'll have to look into fixing this. I almost never ride when it is dark, especially in the winter, so I had not noticed this, but I bet cars do.

I was also going to take the clutch lever/slave cylinder off since I don't use it with the Rekluse anymore, but noticed I would probably have to take the tank off to remove the clutch hydraulic line. I guess that can wait. I hate tearing into bikes in the winter when I don't have a garage.
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:39 PM   #160
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I kinda fixed the headlight; I noticed that tab A wasn't put into slot B on the bottom of the light where the adjuster is, so fixing that helped bring it down quite a bit. Low beam is actually on the road now. High beam is still about ten feet or more up in the air. I tried to adjust it with the screw, but it didn't seem to make any difference. Maybe the backing nut is just turning with the screw?

I guess I will have to take it apart and see what the problem is.
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:19 AM   #161
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Hi Codemonkee, what kind of mileage are you getting on your 570?

In did a 30 miles ride yesterday, mostly second gear stuff but no hills, and never WOT and I was a bit shocked that it took a little more than 1 gallon to fill it back up - that's even less mpg than my big, thirsty 950SE!!

Curious to hear what you are getting-
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:41 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabrielu
Hi Codemonkee, what kind of mileage are you getting on your 570?

In did a 30 miles ride yesterday, mostly second gear stuff but no hills, and never WOT and I was a bit shocked that it took a little more than 1 gallon to fill it back up - that's even less mpg than my big, thirsty 950SE!!

Curious to hear what you are getting-
I am getting about 30 to 35 MPG which is no better than my Ducati (a bike that is 200 pound heavier and has 30 more HP). I ride about 25 miles on mixed pavement (street, then highway, then country roads) to the trails, futz around in the woods for one hour to three hours, then ride home.

Yes, it is thirsty - one guy on Husaberg.net said he gets 30 MPG in hard riding. I have heard that it does better on the 'aggressive' map setting because the timing is advanced, but I haven't tested that.

70 Degree racing is coming out soon with their subframe fuel tank (replaces the subframe), and I hear that Aqualine will soon release their wrap around tanks too - although they have been promising those for almost six months (they had them on the Oz rallye bikes, so I don't know what the holdup is there). Between the two, you can run almost 8 gallons of gas (wrap around front tank 2 gallons, stock tank 2 gallons, subframe tank 1 gallon, rear saddle tank 2.6 gallons). I am hoping the wrap around and saddle tanks are easily removable. The subframe tank adds little to no weight as it replaces the subframe (which I will probably modify to hold water and switch between the two as needed).

http://husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10312
http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewto...p?f=30&t=11598
http://safaritanksusa.com/products.p...=12&b=Husaberg

I really need to check my math - that was the second math mistake I made yesterday.
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CodeMonkee screwed with this post 02-17-2010 at 09:07 AM
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Old 02-17-2010, 12:20 AM   #163
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Has anybody on the Husaberg forums played around with leaner maps - if there even is a way to modify them?

Even carbed EXCs and Bergs jetted for optimal power are not that bad on gas. Sightly rich is good for cool running temps but this seems way too low for an FI engine.
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Old 02-17-2010, 05:10 AM   #164
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Originally Posted by CodeMonkee
Yes, it is thirsty - one guy on Husaberg.net said he gets 20 MPG in hard riding. I have heard that it does better on the 'aggressive' map setting because the timing is advanced, but I haven't tested that.
I miscalculated - he said 100 km per tank, which is closer to 60 miles and 30 MPG - so I edited my original post
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:59 AM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM
Has anybody on the Husaberg forums played around with leaner maps - if there even is a way to modify them?

.
There is a user tool you can buy that will change fuel but not ignition. It's $599 retail. You can go to Husaberg.com and download the user manuel for it for free. I read thru it and it sounds pretty good plus you can data log 612 minutes of info. I plan on doing this to track IAT and Fuel temps. Ignition is only the 3 pre-set maps. I haven't read of anyone changing the fuel for mpg but I did see someone re-map and pick up 5 or 6 hp by going richer after they changed the muffler. That was a rare case.
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