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Old 02-15-2012, 01:48 PM   #16
Shoganai OP
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Here's a pic of the detent bolt, spring and ball.



I removed the last of the two shafts for the gearshift forks. They look good.



And the last of three shift forks, and their gear pin sleeves.



Then I closely inspect the shift forks for wear or damage.

A wear on the left.


















To my untrained eye, I think these look REAL good. 181,000 miles and they look new.

This is a badly damaged shift fork from OfftheGrids bike.

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Old 02-15-2012, 01:51 PM   #17
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I then lift out the gear selector drum.



Ok, I'm here now.

At 0900 is the input shaft, at noon is intermediate shaft and at 1400 is the output shaft.

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Old 02-15-2012, 01:59 PM   #18
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Question You Blew a Tranny

That's F ' ed-up.
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:18 PM   #19
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Before applying heat to the seals to pull the gears shafts out I need to remove the gear position switch. (in the center here)



That's a 7mm head there and as soon as I put a socket on it the old plastic crumbled.



I used this on the right side.



Ok, it's off.



Then remove the housing grommet.



Push the grommet down the wire and over and off the connector at the end.




Then I pulled the connector back up through the hold in the housing and removed the whole thing.



It will need replacing.




See those tiny little pins, they have to be removed first. I very carefully removed them using hemostats and behind them were three tiny little springs. I used a tiny magnet to extract them from the holes.

ONLY then can I safely remove the the rotor cap by lifting at the small bar in the middle.






.
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:27 PM   #20
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A word about manuals: I'm using both the BMW Service Manual and the Clymer.

The Clymer NEVER says anything about the NEED to apply 100c to the seats of these shafts the release them. It just says they need to be removed as a unit, all together.

The Service manual does give that critical information and doesn't say the MUST be removed as unit.

Again with the heat.

The input shaft falls out gently in my hand.



Then the other two do the same.



I'm setting them aside for now and will keep working on the case.


.
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Old 02-15-2012, 03:11 PM   #21
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I remove the breather cap with my fingers.



Then I need to drive this vent shaft from the inside out.



I drop a bolt through it and using a punch and hammer it pushes out easily.



I then remove the circlip shown here.




Back to the manuals.
Clymer says: See line #17



And points to the places it wants me to look.



Nope, not here.



Nope, not here either.



I find one under here, but I know that's not it.





Well the pawl had to come off anyway.




OK...RTFM girl. *flip, flip, flip* --read-- *flip, flip* --read....read--






Here ya go, I gotz a flip for ya!

I'll be damned if there was NO SUCH circlip securing the roller
I wasted a 1/2 hour looking it.

Ok, I'm pretty darn sure that's the case and wrap the shaft with leather and wiggle it out.






I stopped here.



It's a 5mm hex head. The plain allen fits it snuggly but I can't turn it. The one seen here says it's a 5mm but fits it so loosly I fear I'll strip the head.
(feels a 1/2 size too small)

.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:36 AM   #22
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Nice write up Shogs. What are the brands of pullers and drivers? I was checking out "Motion Pro" for some blind bearing pullers. I have a lathe and make most of my own tools but those are a very good looking tool and probably more cost effecting to buy than make.

I'm completely rebuilding my '02 K1200LT with nearly 210k on the clock and no work ever done to the transmission. Perhaps I'll post a few pictures on ADV as well. Thanks for the info.
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Old 02-16-2012, 02:44 PM   #23
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Wow nice work. I will definitely learn something from this thread.

Looking at this, I'm glad I didn't try to rebuilt mine and just got a ebay one for $200 bucks. All the transmissions from K100,k75, k1100 are the same but the 4v and the k1100 having the connection for the Paralever. I put a k1100 tranny on my K100 because of the low miles and hardened splines.

I'm checking out your ride report. Damn I thought I had a lot of shit on my K100! Good stuff.
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lukeman screwed with this post 02-16-2012 at 02:54 PM
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:45 PM   #24
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Thanx lukeman. FWIW I live in Culpeper if you ever want to stop by.
Do you still have your K-bike?
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Old 02-16-2012, 04:02 PM   #25
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Youse one crazy gal, honey-pie.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:00 PM   #26
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I would gladly sacrifice my busted tranny at your altar of awesomeness, Gwen.

I know BMW mechanics that won't even go near a BMW tranny.
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Old 02-17-2012, 06:19 AM   #27
Shoganai OP
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So there's this hex head bolt secured with locktite deep in the case. A standard 5mm allen (Craftsman) fits very well, but lacks enough ass to loosen it.

A long T-handle 5 mm (Shades) reaches it well, but is so sloppy I feel like it's going to round off in the bolt.

Another T-handle 5mm (Husky) fits snuggly but is short.

I keep thinking.'what the hell, they're all marked 5mm but the ONE I want to use that is long enough just does not fit.

I check them.


*Chraftsman*


*Shades*


*Husky*



Well, Damn! That's strange...or is it?
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Old 02-17-2012, 06:08 PM   #28
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Old 02-17-2012, 06:34 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoganai View Post
So there's this hex head bolt secured with locktite deep in the case. A standard 5mm allen (Craftsman) fits very well, but lacks enough ass to loosen it.

A long T-handle 5 mm (Shades) reaches it well, but is so sloppy I feel like it's going to round off in the bolt.

Another T-handle 5mm (Husky) fits snuggly but is short.

I keep thinking.'what the hell, they're all marked 5mm but the ONE I want to use that is long enough just does not fit.

I check them.


*Chraftsman*


*Shades*


*Husky*



Well, Damn! That's strange...or is it?
Pick the one that fits most snugly in the head of the bolt and cut off a piece about 1.5 inches long. Take a sacrificial 5 mm 1/4" drive socket. If you really want to get fancy, get some J-B weld and glue the allen piece into the socket. Otherwise, if you don't want to sacrifice the socket you can just pack it full of wheel bearing grease or even vaseline and push the allen into the socket. Presto, you're 5mm allen now has as much ass as you can put behind a ratchet.
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Old 02-17-2012, 06:45 PM   #30
Shoganai OP
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Thanks.
One more question.

It's secured with Locktite, (don't know if it's red or blue) do I need to do anything other than apply enough torque to break it free?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
Pick the one that fits most snugly in the head of the bolt and cut off a piece about 1.5 inches long. Take a sacrificial 5 mm 1/4" drive socket. If you really want to get fancy, get some J-B weld and glue the allen piece into the socket. Otherwise, if you don't want to sacrifice the socket you can just pack it full of wheel bearing grease or even vaseline and push the allen into the socket. Presto, you're 5mm allen now has as much ass as you can put behind a ratchet.
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