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Old 02-26-2012, 06:50 PM   #46
Bueller
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The circular spring likely came from a lip seal.

I don't know specifically what the gears in that transmission are supposed to look like in terms of wear, but I didn't see anything in the photos that bothered me except of course the wasted input shaft splines. If it were mine I'd check all bearings and replace as needed, replace all seals, re-use the gears, repair/replace the input shaft, and call it done.
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:09 PM   #47
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Thank you, I was thinking the same thing but w/o a solid knowledge base.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
The circular spring likely came from a lip seal.

I don't know specifically what the gears in that transmission are supposed to look like in terms of wear, but I didn't see anything in the photos that bothered me except of course the wasted input shaft splines. If it were mine I'd check all bearings and replace as needed, replace all seals, re-use the gears, repair/replace the input shaft, and call it done.
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:14 PM   #48
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Ok, here I am.

Pop on some tunes.



Per instructions I rolled all the bearings in my hands. (1-6)
Bearing # 4 on the intermediate shaft has a district gravely feeling and sound. Also if I spin them quickly and release them only #4 keeps spinning. The rest stopped as soon I released them. My guess it's bad.



More ways than one...so I start with the one on the left.



I know it's not worth saving but I want to practice good technique, so I wrap it in a bit of leather.









There's the circlip I need to remove and you can see the circular spring in the middle.





Now, see that arrow, it's pointing to an unspecified 'pressure device' upon reading in the Clymer it calls it a 'suitable socket' that act as a drift.



Like this.



But there is NO WAY I'm gonna just my nice new sockets!
So I proceed to method #2.

Note the FLAT application of pressure vs. the pointy application of pressure using method #1.



It was then I was stopped in my tracks! The puller I have is not long enough to grab where I need, which is below the spring.

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Old 02-27-2012, 09:41 AM   #49
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Today was very rewarding!

I got a 6" two arm puller and attached it as directed.

However, there wasn't much of a bite.





So I did this to help it stay in place.



Then I put it in the press.









That went VERY well!





Next remove the other tapered roller bearing.

I was a little concerned I might grab the shim, so I paid close attention to what I was grabbing.







I think it all went very well, indeed.

Now to inspect the parts.









Is this a shim? I think so but it's real snuggly with the shaft, so I didn't take it off.








I wonder if is is possible to order just the shaft w/o anything on it?
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:26 PM   #50
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No wrenchin' on an empty stomach I sez.


In my very best Paula Dean..."Hows 'bout some Shepards Pie you'll"?








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Old 02-28-2012, 04:24 PM   #51
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Today I worked on the intermedate and outout shafts.

The first this I did was oil the parts I needed to set aside for now since I had removed all the oil before breaking them down.





I was able to remove the shim.



Someone asked for these two pics.





Intermedate shaft bearing removal.







Can you pick out what's wrong here?
Is seriously wrong!




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Old 02-28-2012, 04:28 PM   #52
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the socket is too large in diameter?(needs to be slightly smaller diam. than the shaft?)
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:47 PM   #53
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I see you've oiled a used bearing. Just to clarify:

If during removal OR assembly you press on anything other than the race of the bearing that has the press fit you need to replace the bearing. More simply put, in your example if your bearing spreader caused you to put any significant axial load on the rollers or cage the bearing should be replaced. Though this is typically less critical on tapered roller bearings like the one you were preserving with oil, you still have to make sure you didn't damage the rollers, cage, or the upper and lower lips of the inner race that contact the top and bottom of the rollers. Even more important, this is VERY critical with sealed bearings since you can't see the insides to know if you have done any damage. Since all of the bearings in your photos are a press fit between the inner race of the bearing and the shaft, it is imperative that all press load is applied only to the inner race, not the outer race of a sealed bearing or the bearing cage and/or rollers of a tapered roller bearing.

Hope that makes sense.
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:33 PM   #54
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Yep. :eek
I didn't catch it until pumping the press handle twice, but I don't believe nothing bad happened.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio_Danimal View Post
the socket is too large in diameter?(needs to be slightly smaller diam. than the shaft?)
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:45 PM   #55
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I will be replacing all of the bearing. I oiled the parts to protect them until I put them back together. The bearings are in there in a separate bag labeled "Replace". I've been bagging all the parts that need to be ordered with the associated parts.

That's what you are seeing.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
I see you've oiled a used bearing. Just to clarify:
Hope that makes sense.
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:08 AM   #56
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Grabbing the correct size drift...





I pop it out and then the other side.





Bad bearing.










Next up, the output shaft. The Clymer siad do it like this.



So I put the collar on...



And no matter what I do, I can't made the gears not foul with the stands. Now, because I'm stupid, I don't know if that matters, but it just doesn't look or feel right so keep trying.









Ok, I go back and look at the picture showing me how to do this. There I note the nuts on the left are at the end of the stud and the ones the the right show extended stud threads, so...





That does work either.

Well, here's at least part of my problem.





I set it up like this then.



And it comes right out.





Off slides 3rd gear. (PS ignore the numbers, they are there to keep me straight)

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Old 02-29-2012, 08:08 AM   #57
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Brilliant Documentation, thank you for your efforts!
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:02 AM   #58
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Thank you jzam.

Next to remove the other bearing







Then this bushing























To my untrained eye, I think it looks good.
Next the snap ring and split needle bearing.

Shaft wrapped in leather.





Off slides 2nd gear.





Here you can see one of the splined washers just under the hole in the shaft.



Under that is another snap ring.



And with that, the last gear slides off.







Now for the last bushing.










Well, that's that.













It will be a few weeks before I have the time to go at this again.

Thanks for following along.
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:05 AM   #59
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And now a word from our sponsor.

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Old 02-29-2012, 11:05 AM   #60
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Just for Shits and Grins; the ShogyGrid K1100 Frankin-tranny

THIS is an outstanding documentation of o-haul of a Beemer tranny. Good on you, your doing a great job.

I know you've a donor tranny for the input shaft BUT....there is an outfit that specializes in repairing the beemer input and drive shaft splines. After the weld repair, machining and subsequent heat treat, I understand they are STRONGER than original and considerably less $$ than a replacement shaft from BMW.

Directed to this source via the IBMWR tech site some time ago. I understand they do great work. Good reference for later?????

http://www.brunos.us/
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