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Old 12-24-2012, 05:45 PM   #1936
Yokomo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abdelhub View Post
300 bux and some elbow grease....took it 2000 miles on a trip in september from seattle to the nevada/oregon desert....had a few roadside fixes but otherwise ran great...


That's awesome! I'm envious. I wish I had the guts to take off and do that!
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Old 12-24-2012, 07:08 PM   #1937
SteelB12
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Hell, that's what I would probably sell mine for (if I were to part with it), but mine has 75K on it.



Quote:
Originally Posted by brockmub View Post
Couldn't pass up this 2002 Bandit 1200 that needs a lot of TLC. PO wanted $1500, I talked him down to $900. Going to be posting some questions on how to repair/upgrade this bike over in the RoadWarriors section.

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Old 12-25-2012, 10:19 AM   #1938
Dorzok
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Rrrrrr. Stupid tapatalk.
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:38 AM   #1939
jrswanson1
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1974 Honda CL360, $700


1985 Honda Nighthawk 700S, $1200


1983 Honda Magna V45, $200
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:31 PM   #1940
bk brkr baker
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Not in modern times, but,



$900 in '79 It's a '75 Ducati 860 GT, the way it's pictured is after I changed the look from stock-square style.



$250 in the mid 80's .1971 Ducati 450R/T



$600 in early 80's. It's a '62 Bonnieville.



$250 in '78 it's a '67 TR6 R that I made some modifications to.

I still have these. They're in my permanent collection.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:22 AM   #1941
bogey78
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Originally Posted by Abdelhub View Post
Front page material here. Great looking shot.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:21 AM   #1942
blaine.hale
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Funny. I have a similar pic with a bike that I bought for I think $1400 or $1500

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Old 01-04-2013, 04:02 PM   #1943
zataomm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abdelhub View Post
300 bux and some elbow grease....

Let me know if you feel like doubling your money.

Those Tiger 750's are great bikes, congratulations of the deal of a lifetime.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:04 PM   #1944
Rango
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abdelhub View Post
300 bux and some elbow grease....took it 2000 miles on a trip in september from seattle to the nevada/oregon desert....had a few roadside fixes but otherwise ran great...



on the alvord dry lake bed
be careful out there,

Mike
I like that jacket...
...oh, and the bike of course.
Cheers
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:29 AM   #1945
lnewqban
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Location: Florida
Oddometer: 289
Hello everyone!

Hello everyone!

I am new to the forum, live in South Florida and I just discovered and have been fascinated with this amazing thread......... and with old bikes in general.

A couple of questions:

I can do any restoration work myself, except chroming rusted parts.
How difficult or costly is that? How do you guys do it?

In general, how to estimate the fair price for a project (or just old) bike?

Example: How much would you pay for this local Seca II?:

http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/mcy/3514069100.html

Thanks in advance

lnewqban screwed with this post 01-06-2013 at 09:39 AM
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:59 AM   #1946
Mambo Dave
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He needs to get rid of it.

if you're willing to do the work and chance having to get the spark plug thrads cleaned up...

Offer him $400 if the miles are low (i can't see that he stated the miles) and if everything seems good.

If it's a good bike after the head-fix, I think it'd be worth it.

For $400, you could e-bay the parts and make money I'd bet. Get it before someone else buys it for e-baying


I'm in Pomano Beach if you want me to try to look at it, not sure where you are.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lnewqban View Post
Hello everyone!

I am new to the forum, live in South Florida and I just discovered and have been fascinated with this amazing thread......... and with old bikes in general.

A couple of questions:

I can do any restoration work myself, except chroming rusted parts.
How difficult or costly is that? How do you guys do it?

In general, how to estimate the fair price for a project (or just old) bike?

Example: How much would you pay for this local Seca II?:

http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/mcy/3514069100.html

Thanks in advance
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:08 PM   #1947
Badjuju
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Wow! Just found this thread, so I had to put something in it. Bought this several years ago from the original owner with just over 18K on the clock for $1200(ish). Not running since approx '98 and totally gummed up in the fuel system, but otherwise appeared that it hadn't been too badly abused, chopped, wrecked, raced, stunted or anything else that usually befell these sweet little rockets. Missing a few stock parts but had all the OEM tupperware in great shape.



So, I pulled everything apart, started looking at used MC yards for some of the lost items, and completely went thru the carbs.









Got the carbs back in and tank on, addressed a few QA issues with gas leaking everywhere, freshened the brakes F&R, gave her new coolant, and put her clothes back on!







Still have some tuning to do to get the fueling right at mid- to high-RPM, but she runs pretty well with no electrical gremlins or suspension glitches.
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:11 AM   #1948
zap2504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
He needs to get rid of it.

if you're willing to do the work and chance having to get the spark plug thrads cleaned up...

Offer him $400 if the miles are low (i can't see that he stated the miles) and if everything seems good.

If it's a good bike after the head-fix, I think it'd be worth it.

For $400, you could e-bay the parts and make money I'd bet. Get it before someone else buys it for e-baying


I'm in Pomano Beach if you want me to try to look at it, not sure where you are.
Agree completely w/Mambo Dave. Clean carbs and clear title are big pluses. This is one of the last models in the venerable Yamaha XJ series (see http://xjbikes.com/ for all things XJ - including any parts you may need from Chacal); kind of like a heavier 550 Seca with a mono-shock rear and a sport fairing. Not sure about the chrome question as this bike didn't have much (maybe something on the fork tubes?). Chrome is usually easily cleaned up by buffing. You can get parts re-chromed (you need to specify "show chrome" or 3-layer to get the proper depth) but it is not cheap.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:08 PM   #1949
husqzilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zap2504 View Post
... Chrome is usually easily cleaned up by buffing. You can get parts re-chromed (you need to specify "show chrome" or 3-layer to get the proper depth) but it is not cheap.
I'll bite: 3-layer is copper, then nickel, and finally chromium on top. The initial copper layer is usually buffed before the nickel is added. Sometimes two coats of nickel are used which makes it 4-layer. "Show crome" is simply chrome plating that someone claims looks good enough to show off. I don't believe there is any sort of industry definition of what "show chrome" consists of, although there are lots of platers who use the expression. When someone specifies "show chrome" it's best to ask exactly what the step-by-step process is to get it good enough to show someone how pretty it is.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:56 AM   #1950
brucifer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by husqzilla View Post
I'll bite: 3-layer is copper, then nickel, and finally chromium on top. The initial copper layer is usually buffed before the nickel is added. Sometimes two coats of nickel are used which makes it 4-layer. "Show crome" is simply chrome plating that someone claims looks good enough to show off. I don't believe there is any sort of industry definition of what "show chrome" consists of, although there are lots of platers who use the expression. When someone specifies "show chrome" it's best to ask exactly what the step-by-step process is to get it good enough to show someone how pretty it is.
I may be qualified to answer this as I worked as a "polisher" and bumper straightener in a chrome shop from 1985-2000.
Show chrome simply means no imperfections in the finished product--ie pits or minor scratches etc.
My job as the polisher was to "polish" or remove the rough finish, pits, scratches and what not prior to plating.
In triple plating, the part gets a flash copper "coat" then a copper buffing coat. This coat is actually fairly thick as far as plating is concerned, and gets buffed and actually fills minor surface imperfections that aren't removed during the polishing process, then to nickle and chrome.
"Straight" plating is used in most production plating. In straight plating, the part skips the copper buffing stage and simply gets a copper flash coat then directly to the nickle and of course the chrome.
Without the polishing and buffing processes, the part being plated would look exactly the way it looked before being plated--rough but in a silver color.

Hope this helps some.
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