15 minute idle clarification....

[9nine0]

The above portion from the service manual is correct. After the 15 minutes is up, it doesn't matter what you do.

[roundtripping]

Originally Posted by 9nine0

The above portion from the service manual is correct. After the 15 minutes is up, it doesn't matter what you do.

Right, but I think the real question is whether the 15 mins of idling matter if you haven't performed the diagnostic tool steps described in the repair manual preceding the idling. I can't imagine they put those steps in just for shyts and giggles.

[9nine0]

With the diagnostic tool you can manually "reset" or "clear" the sensors memory before they adapt themselves during the 15 minute idle. Doing this step helps, but it is not 100% critical that you use the tool.

[Killer Whale KTM]

Guys,
I was told by a KTM mechanic that you MUST reset (clear) the module in order for the 15 min idle to "TAKE". I think he is correct and is otherwise a very profesional mechanic.
Good luck !
Killer Whale KTM

[dezracer]

WELL....This is going nowhwere But I wonder oif disconnecting the battery overnight would help clear the A\F memory . It works that way on most cars.

[crashmaster]

From the FWIW dept., just to muddy up the waters, here's what I got from my mech. He talks about a 10 min instead of 15 minute idle after ECU reset........

"The "10" min. process comes from KTM's Technical Services group. Your are correct that the manual calls for "15" min. This was the process first applied when the F.I. bikes came to market. During the first year of introduction, the service schools started teaching the "10" min. process. Bottom line, when watching the ECU on the remote computer you can see that the ECU settles down around the "5" min. mark. Very little to no change occures after this point."

[9nine0]

You don’t have to reset the sensors but I found it helps tremendously in certain applications.

I.E. - If you had changed a sensor position like the TPS, and now it reads 0.64v where before it read 0.58v @ closed throttle, now the bike will most likely stall at idle RPM because the ECU was calibrated to base its throttle opening off of closed TPS voltage. Or done a valve adjustment and now the vacuum is greater in a cylinder – the map sensor stored parameters from before the valve adj. wont match up at first, and the bike may stumble or hesitate for a variable amount of time. Same applies when changing out a dirty air filter or rebuilding a worn out engine. The ECU will learn what the demands are and the environmental parameters but it has its limits on how quickly it can react to them without creating a runability issue. So what I mean is that it will “Fix itself” but it takes much more ride time than it would to just use the Reset function. So yes the result is the same, but how long are you willing to wait?

[roundtripping]

Originally Posted by 9nine0

So yes the result is the same, but how long are you willing to wait?

Exactly 13 minutes and 27 seconds, if you make me wait any shorter or any longer I will not reset and you will have to start the procedure all over again.

[Mad Kaw Disease]

Originally Posted by 9nine0

So what I mean is that it will “Fix itself” but it takes much more ride time than it would to just use the Reset function. So yes the result is the same, but how long are you willing to wait?

That doesn't jibe with my experience with my bike which is that throttle performance slowly deteriorates over time and/or after a lot of slow traffic riding. I do the reset infrequently, but I still need to do it from time to time to get the smoothest operation even if no maintenance has been performed.

FWIW I never pay attention to how much longer than 15 minutes it idles as long as it goes 15 and seem to get the same result. Definitely will try the ten minute deal though and see if it's the same.

[Needragger]

To revive and muddy up the waters more....
Let's say my significant other runs a KTM shop, the owner and mechanics (KTM certified) are all good friends, I have access at will to the KTM diagnostic software for working on our bikes (Superdukes) and have done multiple resets and remaps for our bikes and others at the shop, I attend the KTM dealer meetings with the significant other (I say all this just to make a point that a lot of people in the know, at least supposidly in the know, are all saying the same thing) and, most importantly, directly asked the question on the 15 minute reset to KTM tech. His answer was disconnecting the battery and doing a 15 minute idle doesn't do anything (does your jump drive have a battery to retain it's memory?). You MUST reset the ECU to allow it to relearn it's base settings. I asked this question based upon rumors and such on the superduke forum run out of EU. Is this just smoke to get u in to the dealer and pay to play???

Think not, I have done, seen all and the ECU reset is the only one IMHO that really works. Usually, once or twice a year, I reset the ECU and do the 15 min run in on our bikes because the settings seem to 'go off' and the bikes may become a bit jerky and will bog on full throttle application on occasion. This works perfectly every time and the bikes run great after the resets (we both run akro maps, she runs slipons and I run a full system). If it's been a while since a reset and we go on a sportride in the mountains her bike is more likely to have issues perhaps because she commutes to and from the shop (and it therefore slowley stubbornly learns only the hot lower altitude conditions?) and I rarely ride the except to sportride....dunno.

My disclamer is I don't work for KTM, I only pretend to when I hang out at the shop and go to the dealer meetings. This is just the info I've been told and what I have experienced. Your experiences may vary, partly based upon chemicals consumed, or not... If someone out there is actually from KTM tech and didn't just here it from someone...who heard it from someone who heard it from they're mechanic....until then I'll do the ECU reset Hopefully I'm not full of it and blowing funny smelling smoke.

[crashmaster]

Well, the manual states that the ECU reset should be done before the 15 min. idle. FWIW.

[dezracer]

I,ve always said.....the 15 min. idle is for the most part....is internet BS gone wild. UNLESS....you have the tool.

[Venteuri]

Originally Posted by Needragger

To revive and muddy up the waters more....
Let's say my significant other runs a KTM shop,.....

My disclamer is I don't work for KTM, I only pretend to when I hang out at the shop and go to the dealer meetings. This is just the info I've been told and what I have experienced. Your experiences may vary, partly based upon chemicals consumed, or not... If someone out there is actually from KTM tech and didn't just here it from someone...who heard it from someone who heard it from they're mechanic....until then I'll do the ECU reset Hopefully I'm not full of it and blowing funny smelling smoke.

Dino oil?

[fireproof46]

The 15 minute idle trick seems to have worked for me. For the past 4,000Km I have had an on and off problem with high idle (4,000RPM) problem after releasing the throttle. I hope it lasts. By the way, I didn't follow the step on disconnecting the battery first.

FP46

[stimmer6253472]

Originally Posted by Pete156

I won't buy a FI KTM until they get this kind of stuff sorted. How can the FI on the new Husabergs be so spot on and the 990s so not?

Just my .02 but I personally have never done the 15 min trick and I have always thought my bike was incredibly smooth. I just think each time you start it up from cold you should let it warm up a little maybe 1-3 bars or about 3-5 minutes. I think this isn't a bad idea for anything cars, bikes, whatever. You can hear your throttle calming down during this time (usually the idle is fine after 20-30 seconds). I basically wait about the amount of time it takes to get my jacket, gloves, helmet, etc... on.

If you haven't driven one go give it a try. You might find no need for what everyone is talking about.

Jim