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Old 11-27-2009, 12:39 PM   #151
onemoreokie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onemoreokie
Hey Somber thanks for the update. I had my x-country down at BMW-OKC on Saturday for the same issue and got a new battery installed. They talked about you and your bike for a while but didn't mention the voltage regulator replacement. It's good to have another thing to try if the battery replacement doesn't work.

My problems are identical to yours. It's been frustrating to have so little confidence in the bike.

Thanks for your posts!

The battery had zero effect on the intermittent stalling issue and the bike is back at the dealer for a voltage regulator (I hope that solves it). Time will tell!
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Old 11-27-2009, 03:18 PM   #152
DRONE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onemoreokie
The battery had zero effect on the intermittent stalling issue and the bike is back at the dealer for a voltage regulator (I hope that solves it). Time will tell!
Please do remember to post up if the voltage regulator solves the problems. Very interested in this.
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Old 11-27-2009, 03:49 PM   #153
onemoreokie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE
Please do remember to post up if the voltage regulator solves the problems. Very interested in this.
Will do! I've had the bike a year and for the most part don't ride it unless
I' ve just have taken it off the battery tender. It's sad really. I've had it down to the shop twice but they have not been able to do much since it hasn't thrown a fault code. I hope this is the final time. If not I'm going to take a bath sell it and buy a Japanese machine. I hate gremlins especially the electrical type!
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Old 11-27-2009, 04:08 PM   #154
Somber
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I'm still stall free since the Voltage Regulator change (and I haven't had the battery tender on since having them do the swap), I'll keep my fingers crossed for you onemore...
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Old 11-27-2009, 04:42 PM   #155
onemoreokie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Somber
I'm still stall free since the Voltage Regulator change (and I haven't had the battery tender on since having them do the swap), I'll keep my fingers crossed for you onemore...
Thanks brother. They had lots of compliments for you and the ride down at the shop.
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Old 11-27-2009, 06:48 PM   #156
jack splash
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Test Idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by apullin
My 2007 always stalls when started from cold. Runs for about 20 seconds, then stalls. Also, sometimes while driving it around, the bike would start stalling and not run unless throttle was held at 20% open.
Battery recall did not fix problem.

Took it to the dealers again, they updated the firmware on the ECU. The bike still stalls when started from cold 50% of the time, although the stalling while warm seems to not occur any more. ECU showed no fault codes.

I have done a data log using my GS911 on the bike when it stalls upon starting from cold. The idle control valve pegs at 200 steps right when the bike stalls.

Since the ECU shows no fault codes, and the failure is intermittent, it'll be difficult to get the dealer to fix it on warranty; if they can't reproduce the problem, then I'd have to pay for diagnosis labour, hundreds of $$.

What are my options? I'm really frustrated by this problem, it's gone on way too long and taken too much of my time.
- I'm considering pulling out the ECU, desoldering the chips and reading out the firmware. Maybe I can disassemble the code and reprogram to fix it myself. I do have an SMT soldering station and 24 channel logic analyzer in lab.
- In light of the aforementioned voltage regulator problems, I might design a DC-DC converter board with a buck-boost converter, so proper running voltage will always be present.
- Pull out the whole BMW EFI system, rebuild with a Haltech or Megasquirt based system.
- If we can cast this as a safety problem, maybe we can organize a class action suit?
Hey: Used to be service manager at a MC dealship, Kaw, Suz,KTM, Maico. And now do Computer repair and network stuff.

Sometimes a failed part will pass all the tests recommended by the manufacturer, but still be bad. The only way to find out which part is bad, is to swap them out one by one.

For example: A Kaw nina900 would not start, the service manual had test for the various electronic ignition parts. Red to black wire = 10 ohms, blue to green = 15ohms etc. A unit would pass all the tests, but the bike still would not start. We replaced the CDI, whch passed the tests, with one from a bike in the showroom , and the bike started right up.

IMHO, try replacing the VR, CDI and see if it fix'es the problem. IMHO, this is the only way to fix an intermittant, stubborn problem. It requires at least another bike, (every part you need ) or a great dealer to do this.

Good Luck
Jack
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:17 PM   #157
bushmeister
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Location: evan,british columbia
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fuel everywhere it shouldn't be

x challenge with 640 km.am i the only one who almost immolated the bike and myself by rupturing the fuel injection pressure line by coming down hard on the seat after air time?[the front left seat grommet was missing].replaced line.please help me to post a picture of my homemade rack & tank or direct me to where i can learn how.don't hate noobs ,you all started somewhere
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Old 11-28-2009, 03:38 PM   #158
DRONE
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Fuel everywhere it shouldn't be

Yes, you are the first one. Replace the rubber cushion! It's almost as thick as the fuel line so without it your fuel line becomes your bumper.

PM sent regarding how to post pics.
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Old 12-01-2009, 05:38 PM   #159
paul_g
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top oil reservoir not draining

2009 Xcountry

I'm trying to drain the oil. Two quarts of it has come out from below, but the top filling reservoir is still full! Dipstick says full, and I can see it sloshing around in there.

I saw the tube coming down from the bottom of the filling reservoir to the tank under the bike, and opened that up too, but it's just not draining.

Can anyone tell me how to release that old oil?

perplexed...

Paul
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:58 PM   #160
Bike#8
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At the bottom back of the oil tank you'll find a hollow bolt w/rubber cap on it. Open the rubber cap, attach a hose to the bolt. Make that hose drain into a container. Open the bolt w/10mm or 12mm wrench (I forget which size). Let oil drain into container.

That is the hard way imo. I siphon the oil out of the tank w/clear tube. Or you can buy a siphon kit at the auto parts store. In any case the oil flows a lot better if it is warm. Make sure the screw in dipstick is out so you don't create a partial vacuum inside the tank.

I hope this helps.
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Old 12-02-2009, 02:10 AM   #161
paul_g
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Wow.... that is a pretty strange procedure, and I am really puzzled why this info doesn't seem to be anywhere, including the BMW maintenance manual.

Why doesn't it just drain down into the case when you open those screws?

I did leave the dipstick open a bit to neutralize the pressure. What I ended up doing, and I won't do it again now that I hear what you have to say, is ran the bike in very short spurts (3-5 secs), which brought most of it down to the case where it drained. I did this over the course of several hours, letting it drain between spurts. What an ordeal, I must say! But, looks like it's finally ready to receive new oil.

As far as the tube you mentioned.. is this a plastic tube I need to acquire that slides over or would I need something threaded? Also, is there a specific diameter of tube you recommend?

Once you pull that rubber cap, does it just start pouring out behind the oil reservoir or does it only begin to flow once you have a tube on/inserted ?

Thanks very much for the info. Wouldn't have guessed this was the answer to save my life.

Paul



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bike#8
At the bottom back of the oil tank you'll find a hollow bolt w/rubber cap on it. Open the rubber cap, attach a hose to the bolt. Make that hose drain into a container. Open the bolt w/10mm or 12mm wrench (I forget which size). Let oil drain into container.

That is the hard way imo. I siphon the oil out of the tank w/clear tube. Or you can buy a siphon kit at the auto parts store. In any case the oil flows a lot better if it is warm. Make sure the screw in dipstick is out so you don't create a partial vacuum inside the tank.

I hope this helps.
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Old 12-02-2009, 06:17 AM   #162
slide
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Paul-g

Dry sump engines like the G use positive pressure feed for oil delivery from and to that tank. It's not gravity feed. If it were, the sump would fill up with oil making the engine impossible to run.
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:43 AM   #163
matloik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul_g
Wow.... that is a pretty strange procedure, and I am really puzzled why this info doesn't seem to be anywhere
That information is in numerous places, including other Gx threads and f650.com. Please search. And if that doesn't work for you, post in an appropriate thread -- this is a log of issues/problems with the bikes.
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:23 PM   #164
Somber
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Location: Oklahoma City
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to onemoreokie and any others with the intermittent stalling that they attempted a Voltage Regulator replacement to fix - feedback? Did it work? Did you give up?

I'm still going strong here.
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Old 01-24-2010, 07:22 AM   #165
matloik
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I've also got a starting problem, and was wondering if this sounds like what others have experienced, if it sounds like the battery. Several times recently I've taken the bike off the tender and gone for a ride. If I stop after 1/2 hr to hour and attempt to start it back up within minutes of stopping, it has a difficult time -- as if the starter is not being cranked with enough ooomph. Even more puzzling is what happend to me today, as after a few failed attempts and letting the bike sit for 5 minutes, it fired right up. I actually had the original battery replaced under warranty about a year ago, before BMW began somewhat admitting there was a problem with the battery. But of course it's possible I got a second bum battery. Eh?
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