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Old 03-22-2010, 07:17 PM   #196
motojc
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Joined: Feb 2010
Oddometer: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTBiker78
Was it official recall (changed design) for all G650X series bikes, or it was just repaired on waranty?
Recall with new design. Believe the old design does not have enough room for the clutch to fully disengage. I had problems with the first 18K mles, depending on the bike is hot or not, the bike would still move when the clutch is pulled all the way in. And impossible to push since it's always engaged. I thought was adjustment issues but the mech said it's already gone all the way. Said I needed a new clutch. Just before I decided to change, the recall came out. I believe the recall is more for a new clutch cover design, but my dealer gave me a new set of plates as well.
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:02 AM   #197
Rat Patrol
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Holy S*it - You all are making me nervious!

Does anybody like the G650X - I just got one and love it - so far....but geeze - this all sounds horrible.

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Old 03-23-2010, 08:06 AM   #198
craftycoder
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Location: Atlanta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat Patrol
Does anybody like the G650X - I just got one and love it - so far....but geeze - this all sounds horrible.

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This is the "ISSUE LOG" it only contains the problems with the bike. I love it personally. My main issue with this bike is finding more time to ride it, oh and aftermarket parts to make it a little bit better of a world touring style bike. I know those two things make no sense together, why do I need to world touring bike that I don't enough time to ride? I have no answer for you other than this. Everyone has something they piss money away on.
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:33 AM   #199
lewiss66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craftycoder
This is the "ISSUE LOG" it only contains the problems with the bike. I love it personally. My main issue with this bike is finding more time to ride it, oh and aftermarket parts to make it a little bit better of a world touring style bike. I know those two things make no sense together, why do I need to world touring bike that I don't enough time to ride? I have no answer for you other than this. Everyone has something they piss money away on.
It would be interesting to post a survey saying 'Did you have any trouble with your G650X yes or not.' Maybe more parameters might be added.
Lets do it!

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lewiss66 screwed with this post 03-24-2010 at 10:38 AM
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:38 AM   #200
craftycoder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewiss66
It would be interesting to post a survey saying 'Did you have any trouble with your G650X yes or not.' Maybe more parameters might be added.
Lets do it!
We are talking about a motorcycle right? They are machine made by man and then ridden by men. I don't think I would believe anyone who answered No to the question.
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:38 AM   #201
lewiss66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewiss66
It would be interesting to post a survey saying 'Did you have any trouble with your G650X yes or not.' Maybe more parameters might be added.
Lets do it!
The link ---> http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=562065
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:39 PM   #202
motojc
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People have been asking me about the details of the clutch recall, so here's what's on my record:

Dealer: BMW Mahattan.
Service Date: jan 9th 2010.
Serv Advisor: Rodney McIntosh

Service detail:

...clutch lever hard to pull in, bike walks when clutch disengaged, almost impossible to find neutral. Inspected Cable and found freeplay maxed out at lever adjuster and spine adjustment at cover. Inspected cable length, ok. Removed Clutch access cover and found tooth missing on pivot arm operates clutch plates. Searched bulletins and measures, found PUMA Measure US-22898888-02 ordered all necessary parts...

Parts Ordered:
Needle sleeve: T99L00N
Operating Shaft: T21500
Set of clutch Disks: T212A2
Release Bearing: T21500
Shaft Seal: T99DooTW
Gasket: T99D00TG
Clutch Rel. Fork Lever: T21500
Needle Sleeve: T99L00N

I believe the part with missing tooth was individual incidence, the cover and shaft is the recall. Good luck and hope this will help.
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:47 AM   #203
matloik
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Location: PDX | Hood River
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I have an update. As it turned out, de-crufting my side stand switch did not entirely solve my starting problem as at times I still experienced starting issues -- wouldn't catch when, e.g., attempting to restart after a fuel fill up.

However, a new battery from BMW under the battery recall campaign seems to have solved the problem. I've waited a while to report back, I've not had the starting problem since. The old battery seemed to be able to crank things sufficiently under 'normal' conditions; but I do notice that the new battery does so more enthusiastically.

Oh, BTW, I also had my master brake cylinder cap and gasket replaced under warranty. It was weeping.


Quote:
Originally Posted by matloik
In the process of trying to diagnose my starting problem (see recent previous posts in this thread) I pulled my sidestand switch (SSS) off to clean and inspect. In the process I figured out how you can tell if your SSS is operating correctly. Here's what I know and have found out:

Your bike will not start if it is in gear and the sidestand is down. It will attempt to turn over but won't catch. That there is a brilliant design as it leads you to start thinking about all kinds of other issues like fuel starvation. Why could it not operate like the kill switch?

Check out your SSS:

- Stand next to your bike, on the sidestand side, holding the bike upright but with the sidestand down.
- Bike in gear. Clutch disengaged (lever pulled in).
- Turn key to 'on' position. Wait couple seconds ...
- Put yer ear to listen to your seat. Actually you will be listening to the electronics under it.
- Reach down with your right hand and swing the sidestand up. Don't let it thwak up or you might not hear what you're listening to.
- As the sidestand goes up, and the SSS closes, you will hear system electronics turn on. The system enables and you would be able to start your bike.
- You will also notice that the oil light flickers for a second when the system enables in this manner.

Go ahead, give it a try. I was sufficiently amuzed to spend a couple of minutes playing with, feeling like I'd figured out something profound. Then I had to stop playing so I could go tell my Xc adv compatriots.

- Now try this same procedure by pulling it up into Neutral instead of lifting up the sidestand. Same thing happens -- system is enabled. Amazing!

Now I know what you're thinking -- "Why do I still have start problems even when I have it in Neutral?" Well, I don't know. However, while playing around with this just now, I did observe it momentarily exhibit the no-start behavior while in N. Perhaps there is some subtle connection or inter-relationship between the Neutral sensor and the SSS. Note also that if you are on your bike, turn the key on (wait til those 'on' systems fully start up), in gear, kick up sidestand, and immediately push the start button -- you may not have waited that one second or so to allow for systems up. Yeah, yeah, a bunch of conjecture here ...

So, is my start problem fixed now that I polished up my SSS? I don't know, didn't go for a ride yet. But if and when I have start issues, I will at least know how to determine if it is being caused by my SSS. And I won't even have to endure odd looks from others at the gas station by having my ear to my seat, as I know to look for that oil light flicker. Over and out.
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:21 PM   #204
kbauman
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Cry

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5Chord
Me too!

Model: XCountry
Year: 2009
ABS: Yes
Mileage at time of issue: 5300
Date of occurrence:Aug. 18 2009
Modifications (if any): Lots, but no engine mods
Description of Failure(s): repeated stalling. bike won't idle
Resolution (if any): Fixed itself after sitting for 45 min
My xcountry: stock, no abs.

In addition to the cold start issue from day one, I've had this issue while on the freeway, as others have as well. I just spent 45 minutes nursing the thing home as it died in intersections, at lights, ran well for 45 seconds, then surged, etc. It's a nightmare.

I'll (mostly) save the rant, but I've contacted an attorney. This thing has been in the shop at least 5 times, over the course of 9000 miles, and nobody knows what it is. So far, the shop has guessed:

battery
firmware
idle actuator (because of the goofy briggs n' stratton type air filter)
ethanol content of gas
injector dirt

I've paid out of pocket for some of this shit, and I have zero faith they'll ever know what it is, now that it's discontinued. I don't understand how BMW can't stand behind this to the extent of making it right with either a true repair or a new bike. I don't want a parting gift saddle bag or BMW mug.

Sometimes enough is enough. I can't do lemon law in oregon because judges can force people to pay (in a lost case) the manufacturer's legal fees, but I can do a magnuson-moss warranty act suit and at least get back the "diminished value" difference. Funny, how are they going to figure that, considering the thing is worth a less than nothing if it dies in front of a semi that's following too close at 70mph?

What a joke. They have this week to come up with something, or war it is!
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:32 PM   #205
kbauman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apullin
My 2007 always stalls when started from cold. Runs for about 20 seconds, then stalls. Also, sometimes while driving it around, the bike would start stalling and not run unless throttle was held at 20% open.
Battery recall did not fix problem.

Took it to the dealers again, they updated the firmware on the ECU. The bike still stalls when started from cold 50% of the time, although the stalling while warm seems to not occur any more. ECU showed no fault codes.

I have done a data log using my GS911 on the bike when it stalls upon starting from cold. The idle control valve pegs at 200 steps right when the bike stalls.

Since the ECU shows no fault codes, and the failure is intermittent, it'll be difficult to get the dealer to fix it on warranty; if they can't reproduce the problem, then I'd have to pay for diagnosis labour, hundreds of $$.

What are my options? I'm really frustrated by this problem, it's gone on way too long and taken too much of my time.
- I'm considering pulling out the ECU, desoldering the chips and reading out the firmware. Maybe I can disassemble the code and reprogram to fix it myself. I do have an SMT soldering station and 24 channel logic analyzer in lab.
- In light of the aforementioned voltage regulator problems, I might design a DC-DC converter board with a buck-boost converter, so proper running voltage will always be present.
- Pull out the whole BMW EFI system, rebuild with a Haltech or Megasquirt based system.
- If we can cast this as a safety problem, maybe we can organize a class action suit?
Ben, a local tech, basically remedied exactly these symptoms by cleaning/servicing (whatever that means) the idle actuator. It gets filthy because of the crappy air filter and design. Bike hasn't died on start yet, and it's been cold and wet in the last week.

Why, of course, it dies/surges/freaks out on the freeway after running for 45 minutes is entirely beyond me. I don't want to die.
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:29 PM   #206
Bora20
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Location: Kamloops, BC, CAD
Oddometer: 849
My battery final died, it took 2.5 years. It will be replaced under warranty due to the recall.

No other issues with the bike.
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Old 05-12-2010, 08:58 PM   #207
apullin
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Still an issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by kbauman
Ben, a local tech, basically remedied exactly these symptoms by cleaning/servicing (whatever that means) the idle actuator. It gets filthy because of the crappy air filter and design. Bike hasn't died on start yet, and it's been cold and wet in the last week.

Why, of course, it dies/surges/freaks out on the freeway after running for 45 minutes is entirely beyond me. I don't want to die.
Hrm, interesting. I've been told a lot of different things on this issue; not that I'm doubting you! I will look at that... although I'm worried about it being out of calibration after that... apparently there's an "adaptation value" that they set at the dealership. Do you happen to know if changing the air filter to the aftermarket type people recommend here (unifilter, I think?) fixes the actuator fouling problem?

I recently convinced the dealer to take it in for warranty service for the issue (4th time). Supposedly, they found a loose clamp on the throttle body (wasn't me!). That, plus adaptation value, and firmware has partially solved the issue. It will *still* occasional stall when started cold (room temperature... not super cold environment or anything), maybe 1 out of 6 times.
Next time, I'll have to convince them to replace the computer, injectors, fuel pump, and O2 sensor....

Anyone interested in a datalog from the bike when it stalls? Maybe someone clever can tell what's going on..
The files are in both the original semi-colon delimited format, and also as Excel 2007 files.
The log from 03-13-2010 clearly shows the bike stalling. The log from 05-12-2010 shows the bike after the mos recent warranty service. There was the usual odd fluctuation in RPM after ~30 seconds, but it didn't stall.
http://andrewpullin.org/logs/

A mechanic that fixes BRP Spyder's (also Rotax engines) claimed that my problem is symptomatic of valves being out of adjustment. That's on the list of things to do, but I severely doubt that it'll be the problem.

Lastly, I've just seen in this thread that people mentioned a recall on the clutch assembly? I don't thinks that's related to this issue, but the bike always "jumps" when going into gear, even with the clutch pulled all the way in.

I wish someone would just steal this thing so I could be rid of it and have insurance money instead.... sigh....
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Old 05-15-2010, 09:18 PM   #208
ADVJake
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Oddometer: 4,338
Hi guys,
was hoping to get some help on my clutch issue.

basically, it has no feel. I can't get it riding smoothly.
the clutch action is very heavy compared to say my drz400.
theres no slipping, but the clutch just feels wrong. I dont know if this is normal or not, but id like to try and resolve it if it isn't.

thanks
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Old 05-15-2010, 09:37 PM   #209
682202
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Location: in the middle
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Take a look at this post it may answer your problem.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=2856


Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVJake
Hi guys,
was hoping to get some help on my clutch issue.

basically, it has no feel. I can't get it riding smoothly.
the clutch action is very heavy compared to say my drz400.
theres no slipping, but the clutch just feels wrong. I dont know if this is normal or not, but id like to try and resolve it if it isn't.

thanks
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Old 05-15-2010, 09:55 PM   #210
Muckpee
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB CANADA
Oddometer: 77
Model: (xCountry)
Year:2007
ABS:yes

Mileage at time of issue:5000km
Date of occurrence:summer 2008
Modifications (if any): none
Description of Failure(s) warped front rotor
Resolution (if any): new rotor under warranty



Mileage at time of issue:25000km
Date of occurrence:august 2009 to current
Modifications (if any): none

Description of Failure(s): 7.5 amp fuse that is responsible for digital cluster and signal/brake lights blows. Dealer says wiring harness is too tight for the bike and therefor the wires are rubbing and stretching and consequencely shorting out... The short also drains the battery completely. So far the problem has wrecked two batteries and the dealership wont replace any of em! It's been in twice and halfhassly fixed by the dealership. After running smoothly for less then one tank of gas the problem returned today while idling at a red light. I went straight home and disconnected my new battery... my bike's warranty expired 5 days ago... should be interesting phone call on monday. Anybody know if the wiring diagrams for the g650x bikes is available anywhere??

Resolution (if any): This was my first motorbike but may be my last bmw
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