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Old 07-23-2010, 11:45 AM   #256
slide
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Location: NM, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matloik
I concur, but don't necessarily like it. The gear box and clutch do seem less forgiving than those on other bikes, keeping you honest about your shifting and not letting you get lazy. The sweet spot wherein revs match for seemless, completely smooth shifting seems narrower. A few things that help me: Don't shift up too soon, let it rev up. Yes, be definitive. Don't wait to shift until your clutch lever is pulled in all the way as that seems to allow time for revs to drop too much. Don't let out too much throttle, just a bit. Pull the shift lever straight up with your foot (probably nothing mechanical here but plays a part, for me, in being definitive about your shift). Blip the throttle a little (not too much) for downshifts.
I've found it critical that you be wearing stiff boots for that defnite shift. If I wear running shoes, the amount of flex in the top makes it very difficult to achieve a 'grind free' shift. This is the same as I experienced on my R bikes too, but the G is worse.

My guess is that the German engineers who designed this thing never took into account that someone may ride in less than full gear. Or they may have felt that if you fail to wear proper gear, they don't care about how well you shift.

Japanese culture seems to satisfy the customer as he is while German culture says the engineer dictate the way the tech is used.
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Old 07-24-2010, 04:36 PM   #257
apullin
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Well, I guess the only solution is to spend a huge amount of time and money to custom engineer a DR650 or CBR660RR transmission into the BMW 650 case ... that'll be worthwhile. Actually, it looks like people sell whole Honda transmission internal on ebay astonishingly cheap...
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Old 07-26-2010, 01:52 AM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apullin
So, I have had an issue with my '07 X-Country stalling. It would always stall after about 30 seconds of running, when started from cold. It got very bad recently, and would stall 3-4 times, until full up to temperature.

I saw that there was a software update for my GS-911 unit. The update enabled the unit to reset the adaptation values for the idle control stepper, O2 sensor, and fuel computer. I reset all of them, idles the bike until the fan switched on. This seems to have stopped the stalling completely.

But that might just be a workaround for something else that's wrong. I might have low fuel pressure; clogged strainer or bad fuel pressure regulator. Although, I'm not sure if this bike even has a fuel pressure regulator. It might be a loose hose clamp on the throttle body; the dealership claimed that was the problems at one point.

Anyone got any tricks for removing the fuel pump without buying the special BMW tools?
Hi, can you tell me more about resetting the adaptation values? i'm interested in the lambda adaptation values.
Did you notice any difference in riding after adaptation values have been reset?
about the other adaptation values..aren't they idle regulator and throttle-valve zero position?
thanks
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:15 AM   #259
4strokn
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[QUOTE=apullin]Feels... clunky? Dropping from neutral to first with the engine running usually results in a pretty alarming CLACK, and a small jump or lurch. It's not uncommon for it to not fully go into gear on downshifts, leaving me stuck between 2nd and 3rd. With the engine off, and in 1st, it feels like it's dragging, even with the clutch in. The engagement isn't very smooth... all the friction is in last 10% of the clutch lever. And you have to be super ginger to find neutral. The shift lever seems to have a lot of travel that isn't actually shifting the transmission, too ... 50% play, 50% shift.

There is a design fault with the clutch housing. As the temperature rises a shaft that slides into the housing starts to jam up when the clutch is operated. I had all of the above symptoms and persevered and had the housing and a few associated parts changed under warranty. It slightly improves shifting between gears but the main improvements came shifting between neutral first and second while crawling or when stopped. When you visit the dealers service department get them to look in there data base for a Puma 2 fault code. Dont take no for an answer. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:22 PM   #260
apullin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocchis
Hi, can you tell me more about resetting the adaptation values? i'm interested in the lambda adaptation values.
Did you notice any difference in riding after adaptation values have been reset?
about the other adaptation values..aren't they idle regulator and throttle-valve zero position?
thanks
Yes, it made all the difference in the world. Apart from stalling when cold, it also seemed to stutter and miss a fair bit on deceleration, with no load (coasting to a stop with the clutch in). It also feels much less dangerous in low-speed cornering; the bike would previously have a hard fuel or ignition cut at low RPM's with some load, which was absolutely perilous for city corners.

All I did was do all 3 resets that the GS911 unit offered me, when the bike was completely cold. Then I started it, ran it for ~10 minutes until the fan kicked on, and then shut it down. Zero stalls since. I've attached a screenshot of the functions that the GS-911 offered in this respect.


My working theory is still that my fuel pump filter or strainer is partly blocked, and I am getting low fuel pressure. Remapping the fuel injection should address that. Unfortunately, I don't have the special tools to remove the fuel pump yet. And the parts catalogs don't even list a part number for the fuel filter.

I suppose it's also possible that my O2 sensor has become dirty, and takes longer to heat up, or something along those lines. It's a mystery. I'm considering getting a spare ECU from ebay and reverse engineering it.

Thanks for the recs on the clutch issues, folks! Taking the bike to the dealers here feels like such a gamble. It's always, "We'll look at it, but if we don't agree with you on the problem, you'll be on the hook for $300 of labor." Sigh.
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Old 07-27-2010, 03:22 AM   #261
Lankbrown
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Fuel Filter

I posted this on another tread about the fuel filter and possible blockage. I don't know why we should expect BMW to do anything different as it is all about money is it not!!!!!!

To get into the tank just use a drift and a hammer. Works fine

Cheers

Replacement filters are not available as BMW has decide to claim that they are a life time filter. They will supply if you have to replace your fuel pump at a cost of $700AUS.

This may sound incredible but I had to replace my fuel pump(contaminated fuel) after 35,000 K's BMW Australia wanted $700 for the unit or I could buy a Bosch for $150. No guesses which one I chose.

I then need to replace the Mahle fuel filter. Mahle have them in stock but will not supply as they have a contract with BMW. BMW dealers will not supply as there is no part number unless you buy the complete unit for $700 AUS.

I have complained to BMW Australia and they will not supply or permit Mahle to sell the product as it is against BMW policy.

I spent two hours reverse flushing the filter to improve it as a last resort. At this point I am unable to get a replacement. If any one has more luck than me and can get a BMW dealer to purchase direct from Mahle I would appreciate being in the loop.
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Old 08-02-2010, 04:30 AM   #262
motoreiter
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My xchallenge still suffers from stalling...I will try the GS911 solution posted above, but also suspect the voltage regulator.

One question for help in diagnosing whether the voltage regulator is the problem: I've noticed that if I rev the bike in neutral (or with clutch in, etc.), the voltage indicator generally does not show an increase in voltage. Is that normal? Could that be a sign of a faulty voltage regulator?

Also, when starting the bike, voltage is usually at about 12.6, while riding it usually gets up to the mid-teens, only very occasionally up to 14. BTW, this is with a brand new YAUSA battery.
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Old 08-02-2010, 06:13 AM   #263
plumber mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoreiter
My xchallenge still suffers from stalling...I will try the GS911 solution posted above, but also suspect the voltage regulator.

One question for help in diagnosing whether the voltage regulator is the problem: I've noticed that if I rev the bike in neutral (or with clutch in, etc.), the voltage indicator generally does not show an increase in voltage. Is that normal? Could that be a sign of a faulty voltage regulator?

Also, when starting the bike, voltage is usually at about 12.6, while riding it usually gets up to the mid-teens, only very occasionally up to 14. BTW, this is with a brand new YAUSA battery.
This may be way off and forgive me for not reading back, but have you already disabled your sidestand switch? It has cured all driveability issues for me. 8000 miles trouble free.
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:34 AM   #264
motoreiter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plumber mike
...but have you already disabled your sidestand switch? It has cured all driveability issues for me. 8000 miles trouble free.
No, I haven't disabled it, and am not sure that it would help. I think the side stand switch can cause stalling if you're on the bumps, but mine stalls when starting in the parking lot, and then stalls frequently until it warms up a bit. Do you think that disabling the sidestand switch would help?
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:01 AM   #265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoreiter
No, I haven't disabled it, and am not sure that it would help. I think the side stand switch can cause stalling if you're on the bumps, but mine stalls when starting in the parking lot, and then stalls frequently until it warms up a bit. Do you think that disabling the sidestand switch would help?

My 07 xcountry (29000km) used to start 100% with a quick touch of the button.. now i've noticed it starts but then will often stall a couple times. When it's idling cold and i give it a little throttle to rev it it can stall or idle irradically. When driving away on it cold at constant speed it seems the motor is lurching... seems to go away by opening up the throttle... BIke was serviced 4000km ago and has brand new battery+new wiring harness. It has also developed an oil leak
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:56 PM   #266
motoreiter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muckpee
My 07 xcountry (29000km) used to start 100% with a quick touch of the button.. now i've noticed it starts but then will often stall a couple times. When it's idling cold and i give it a little throttle to rev it it can stall or idle irradically. When driving away on it cold at constant speed it seems the motor is lurching... seems to go away by opening up the throttle...
These are exactly the problems I am having. There is lots of advice on here about how to fix, lots of people did "x" "y" "z" or "q" and the problem went away for them, but the problem is figuring out which of the fixes will work for you.
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:46 PM   #267
plumber mike
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A dirty or poor connection on any of the safety switches can cause problems at any time. At higher rpm it will kill the motor and resume running so quickly that it will appear the bike is running poorly. I don't know if this is your problem or not, but by bypassing it and connecting the three wires together it will either cure the problem or rule it out as the problem. It's worth trying the easy stuff first I also found that by removing the sidestand switch and grinding off the metal guard I was able to gain a little more ground clearance in a very fragile area of the bike.

Best of luck to you and please keep us posted.
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:19 PM   #268
DRONE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoreiter
Also, when starting the bike, voltage is usually at about 12.6, while riding it usually gets up to the mid-teens, only very occasionally up to 14. BTW, this is with a brand new YAUSA battery.
Not sure I understand. The "mid-teens"? Maybe you meant "mid-thirteens"? If yes, then those numbers sound pretty typical. Maybe Somber could chime in? He's the first one to discover the voltage regulator fix.
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:47 PM   #269
motoreiter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE
Maybe you meant "mid-thirteens"?
er, yes, sorry for the mistatement.
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:59 AM   #270
Alcanara
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Battery Situation

Hi Folks,

I have just had a similar situation to many posts here re the battery going dead etc etc etc, however..... I had an error message come up "A65" in big letters on the main display readout.... and 1.9 in smaller letters on the lower display readout???????

Any ideas peoples?

Stuart
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