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Old 10-22-2010, 12:25 AM   #361
Max Kool
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Why would you do that, add a few cups of ethanol? This is typically meant to prevent carb frost right?
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Old 10-22-2010, 09:25 AM   #362
matloik
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Idle Stalling No More

At the risk of jinxing myself, and even though I wanted to wait longer to collect more data, this idle stalling issue is pressing on a lot of us so I'll report in.

I have now been completely stall free for 5-6 cold starts. Yes, it was worse immediately after I cleaned out the t-body and idle actuator. But I'm now attributing this to it being way out of calibration after reassembly. It has either recalibrated itself on its own or because of me performing the hold throttle open, pause, turn key on, pause to let the system come up, turn key off, let off throttle -- that procedure.

I definitely recommend this cleaning if you are having this issue. And Seafoam thru the injector is not going to pass thru the idle port in question.

Oh, and the DVD manual calls for loctiting the actuator fasteners.

Cheers.
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Old 10-22-2010, 09:55 AM   #363
gsstampeder
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DVD manuals???? Where?
I would like to have these if they are available anywhere.
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Old 10-22-2010, 10:42 AM   #364
Janet from Joisey
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From Muckpee:

10-20-2010 08:46 PM
MuckpeeQuote:
Originally Posted by snooker
I think we are getting off track a bit. Of course it will run on ethanol, but the side effect is that this may gunk up the idle actuator. I've had cold idle problems as well, but only for maybe 1 minute while cold (ok it's not freezing when I try it). It's not like you can't tour the world (ask Colebatch ), it runs fine after it is warmed up, it's just that it has an annoying problem and won't idle when cold (in my case).

I think muckpee is right and has had others verify it. I had the problem and in June had the dealer do his own diagnosis, took 2 trips to the dealer but finally he cleaned the idle actuator ( or throttle body, or not sure exactly what area). That fixed the problem for awhile, but now 3000 miles and 4 months later (October) it is back, and it is still not that cold in the morning when I start it.

How to fix it is the issue, muckpee was trying to find the source of the gunk, that's all. Any other fixes besides cleaning it?
I'd like to hear the short answer for this pleeez...



Short answer: No

The gunk is obstructing the source of air for idling...the gunk needs to be removed. I cant see cleaners being effective as the gunk is before the fuel injector. Only fix is to remove the gunk manually or eliminate the build up.

The way I see it is the gunk can be 3 things..

1- The gunk is mainly unburnt ethanol.
Im not sold on this as the gunk is before the fuel injector and so would only be exposed to ethanol by fuel and air flowing in the wrong direction...

2- The gunk is mainly oil vapor.
This seems like it is definetly plausible. The crank case vent hose goes into the bottom of the airbox. There is also a coarse filter element inside the airbox that covers the hole for this breather hose. (The foam is covered in similar gunk.) These vapors could easily make its way to the throttle body and actuator.

3- Gunk could just be dirt/water that is coming in through the air filter/airbox leaks. Hope not.

Me? I don't trust that case venting hose and will be investigating soon.



I'll have to look at that case venting hose, too.

I used Rick Ramsey's case venting hose modification on my Husky TE310, except I tucked the hose (w/ attached Uni filter) behind a body panel for protection from East Coast weather. (I clean out the gunky Uni filter every so often.)

From Rick's modification website (about half-way down):

http://rickramsey.net/TE310mods.htm


Head vent hose
The stock vent line from the valve cover goes to the rubber boot between the air box and throttle body. This allows oily air to pass through the throttle body. As I discovered on my TE610, oil residue builds up inside the throttle body and on the butterfly. Here is the stock hose removed from the head cover (hose clamp end) and air box (metal tube end). The metal tube is about 3/8" o.d. and either of the two filters shown fit perfectly. The left filter is from Auto Zone and is a bit larger and flashy; the right filter is a UNI filter from Chaparral.



Continues --------------->


There is a minor problem using the stock hose this way; it's too long and you end up trying to find a place to put the extra length. I didn't want to cut the stock hose, so I removed it completely and replaced it with a shorter hose I had in my junk-parts box. I installed a Uni filter on the end and tucked the filter behind the shock reservoir and under and behind the throttle body. I plugged the hole in the air box boot with a short 10mm bolt.




Here are the parts I used: on-hand hose (probably from an old Honda XR250R), 3/8" hose barb, and Uni filter.




Oops, I just noticed the hose clamp for the Uni filter has been left out of the pictures; not to worry, it's in the package.
Hose barb 3/8" - about $1.50 at your local hardware store.
Auto Zone filter - about $10 at your nearest Auto Zone store.
Uni filter UP-102 3/8" - about $14. Chaparral Racing


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Old 10-22-2010, 11:11 AM   #365
DRONE
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Janet--that looks like a cool solution if in fact the crankcase venting hose is the culprit. But for us mechanically-challenged readers, if you do this mod on you X bike, please post up pics that are as clear as your Husky pics. With pics like those, even I could perform this mod.
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Old 10-22-2010, 01:40 PM   #366
matloik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pumkin640
This is encouraging to hear.
5-6 starts is not a lot yet, but better than your original post on it getting worse.

Since my closest dealer wont come off the bad gas reasoning, and the stalling is frustratingly intermittent, I will ask my question again.
What has to be removed to get to the actuator?

I can see it on the right side of the bike, buried behind cables a bit.
Can you remove and clean it from there, or does the airbox have to come off?
True, 5-6 no-stall starts is not very much. However I was consistently experiencing 1-2 stalls every cold start prior to the cleaning.

Just start taking shit off until you can pull the throttle body. That includes the air box; and you'll need to disconnect various electrical connectors and the crankcase breather hose. And while you're in there, why not clean the entire t-body. If your actuator is is gummed up, chances are pretty good that the insides of the t-body are not springtime fresh either. Dive in, don't be scared.
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Old 10-22-2010, 02:34 PM   #367
Janet from Joisey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE
Janet--that looks like a cool solution if in fact the crankcase venting hose is the culprit. But for us mechanically-challenged readers, if you do this mod on you X bike, please post up pics that are as clear as your Husky pics. With pics like those, even I could perform this mod.
Drone,

Will take a peek at the Cross Country to see how accessible the crankcase hose is.

. . . Maybe someone else who's been in there can pipe up.

Those aren't my Husky pics, but pics on Rick Ramsey's website.

Did you see his website, including the stuff on the WRR?

-Janet
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Old 10-22-2010, 11:03 PM   #368
snooker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janet from Joisey
Drone,

Will take a peek at the Cross Country to see how accessible the crankcase hose is.

. . . Maybe someone else who's been in there can pipe up.

Those aren't my Husky pics, but pics on Rick Ramsey's website.

Did you see his website, including the stuff on the WRR?

-Janet
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Old 10-28-2010, 01:13 PM   #369
QUIRKSM
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Well with just a hair over 13000 miles i have had my first problem. i just ran out of gas and had to walk the bike half a mile to the closest gas station, problem is the gas light never came on. I left my house went about a mile to the highway got on and went about 8 miles and got off my exit, no light, then as i was on the exit ramp the bike just cut out. I tinkered on the side of the road then checked the tank, empty. Fillled up and it took 2.474 gallons and started right up.
I usually set the trip but forgot to this time. I'll see if it comes on with this fill up, if not I'll see if warranty will cover it when i go in for the roller pin bracket recall.
I still absolutely love this bike and don't think i will ever want to get rid of it.

Chris
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:52 PM   #370
Skelt
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Roll pin

Those of you that have been putting off this recall might want to get it done sooner than later. I had noticed a clanging noise on washboard type roads. While prepping the bike for a trip I noticed a bolt missing on the bracket that holds the roller. I called the dealer and he said to bring it in. By the time I made the 10mi trip it was flapping around and could have gotten into the chain. The good news is the clanging is gone!


Don
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:25 PM   #371
dirtsurfer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsstampeder
DVD manuals???? Where?
I would like to have these if they are available anywhere.
The DVD comes up on ebay from time to time & I have it if you get desperate but I think there is some Canadian inmates that I have already sent a copy.
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Old 11-06-2010, 11:31 AM   #372
catneck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker
What do you mean by "use an ethanol treatment"?
I use Star Tron in the bikes, works well (6 months so far)
http://mystarbrite.com/startron//con...3/123/lang,en/
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:57 AM   #373
Ovalmana
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Hi there. I own a X moto and installed a new Leo Vince slip on model from Motostrano. After that the bike refuses to idle correctly and stalls at every light. Also when I'm circulating in lower gears at low speed it stalls sometimes. My question is if you guys are aware of any specific adjustment I hould make to my bike to avoid this situation. I love the sound and quality of the Leo Vince exhaust but the stalling is becoming annoying. This does not happen with the stock setup. I haven't find, in this thread, anybody complaining about this situation. Any help or tip you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:41 PM   #374
Alcanara
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ovalmana
Hi there. I own a X moto and installed a new Leo Vince slip on model from Motostrano. After that the bike refuses to idle correctly and stalls at every light. Also when I'm circulating in lower gears at low speed it stalls sometimes. My question is if you guys are aware of any specific adjustment I hould make to my bike to avoid this situation. I love the sound and quality of the Leo Vince exhaust but the stalling is becoming annoying. This does not happen with the stock setup. I haven't find, in this thread, anybody complaining about this situation. Any help or tip you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
The nature of fuel injection is such that, you would not normally need to touch anything. The various sensors (Lambda probe) check for these variables and adjust accordingly.

Other experts on here may suggest methods to speed up the process by which the bike learns these new parameters.... but I believe you should not have to do anything???!!!

Stuart
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Old 11-14-2010, 07:22 PM   #375
tdv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QUIRKSM
Well with just a hair over 13000 miles i have had my first problem. i just ran out of gas and had to walk the bike half a mile to the closest gas station, problem is the gas light never came on. I left my house went about a mile to the highway got on and went about 8 miles and got off my exit, no light, then as i was on the exit ramp the bike just cut out. I tinkered on the side of the road then checked the tank, empty. Fillled up and it took 2.474 gallons and started right up.
I usually set the trip but forgot to this time. I'll see if it comes on with this fill up, if not I'll see if warranty will cover it when i go in for the roller pin bracket recall.
I still absolutely love this bike and don't think i will ever want to get rid of it.

Chris
I had similar issue (gas light doesn't light up with empty tank, but does light up when starting the bike) and it was covered under warranty.
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