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Old 07-28-2011, 10:19 AM   #436
chelman
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Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 2
covered?

hey motojc, im having the exact same issue with my bike right now, was wondering if the bmw dealership covered this under warranty or if it came out of pocket?

Thanks!



Quote:
Originally Posted by motojc View Post
People have been asking me about the details of the clutch recall, so here's what's on my record:

Dealer: BMW Mahattan.
Service Date: jan 9th 2010.
Serv Advisor: Rodney McIntosh

Service detail:

...clutch lever hard to pull in, bike walks when clutch disengaged, almost impossible to find neutral. Inspected Cable and found freeplay maxed out at lever adjuster and spine adjustment at cover. Inspected cable length, ok. Removed Clutch access cover and found tooth missing on pivot arm operates clutch plates. Searched bulletins and measures, found PUMA Measure US-22898888-02 ordered all necessary parts...

Parts Ordered:
Needle sleeve: T99L00N
Operating Shaft: T21500
Set of clutch Disks: T212A2
Release Bearing: T21500
Shaft Seal: T99DooTW
Gasket: T99D00TG
Clutch Rel. Fork Lever: T21500
Needle Sleeve: T99L00N

I believe the part with missing tooth was individual incidence, the cover and shaft is the recall. Good luck and hope this will help.
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Old 07-28-2011, 03:35 PM   #437
Kiwi Tinkerer
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Oddometer: 365
X-Ch LCD disintegrate.

The LCD on my X-ch has started to disintegrate. anyone else see this on their G? It looks like a small squiggly line forming on the display. It stays there when the key is out. I pulled the cover off expecting to see a piece of dirt in there but there is no contamination at all. It appears that the LCD is just coming apart. Took the unit into local BMW dealer. Good timing. I have 3 weeks left on my warranty. So it is being replaced under warranty, no problem.
This speedo unit was replaced last year under warranty as it leaked water. This unit hasn't leaked.
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Old 08-22-2011, 11:25 AM   #438
backyardorganics
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: high desert
Oddometer: 59
07
Xch
10,000 miles

problem:
Still have the fuel pump issue, it won't pump fuel when connected? Dealer(s) say they can fix but can't tell me how? already cost me $110 which was during warranty and still dealer didn't fix. So this is what is happening, fuel pump works fine when connected to power source, when connected to the connector on wire harness power gets cut to pump as soon as connected, not all the wires (there are 4) just the one responsible for pumping fuel. When disconnected the wire on the harness reads 8.0, right when touched to connector it goes to 0.0?

remedy:
added (spliced) a wire from power source coming from fuse box (the same fuse controlling radiator fan). Fuel pump is now always pumping fuel as soon as ignition is switched on and bike runs fine and has been for at least 2000 miles, the wire supplying the power to the fuel pump reads 12.0 and it run directly to fuel pump connector.

new problem:
bike stops running when it feels like it. yesterday while out for a quick run thru the twisties coming around a corner bike power shuts down. Coast to a stop listen for fuel pump and nothing turn key on and off a couple times still can't here the fuel pump, take off the seat remove fuse box from its holder which is right where the splice is, reconnect the fuel pump wire together and fuel pump goes back on. Push wires back down and put fuse box back on holder and back on my way, bike ran great the rest of a spritied ride. This is the 2nd time in 4 days that has happened although the first was leaving for work in the morning after bike sat all night.

side note:
have noticed the radiator fan has not come on all summer when in use during "hot" rides, also the overheating "dummy" light has never come on either although all works when keyed on (precheck). I did do a radiator flush and refilled with water wetter and the fan does work when power ran directly from battery just hasn't gone on from bike again neither has the overheating light. Could the bike just be running that much cooler after the flush and using water wetter?

Anyhow i really like this bike and have a blast on it in all different kinds of riding, It's handling great after some suspension mods and is a blast as a all-around town commuter and would be the most fun bike owned for riding if the electrical gremlins would go away. Anyway to get a schematics on the electrical would hopefully help me solve the issue.
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Old 08-22-2011, 07:26 PM   #439
Tomdog
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Location: Kiwi on the Gold Coast. Australia
Oddometer: 310
Loom Gremlins

Quote:
Originally Posted by backyardorganics View Post
07
Xch
10,000 miles

problem:
Still have the fuel pump issue, it won't pump fuel when connected? Dealer(s) say they can fix but can't tell me how? already cost me $110 which was during warranty and still dealer didn't fix. So this is what is happening, fuel pump works fine when connected to power source, when connected to the connector on wire harness power gets cut to pump as soon as connected, not all the wires (there are 4) just the one responsible for pumping fuel. When disconnected the wire on the harness reads 8.0, right when touched to connector it goes to 0.0?

remedy:
added (spliced) a wire from power source coming from fuse box (the same fuse controlling radiator fan). Fuel pump is now always pumping fuel as soon as ignition is switched on and bike runs fine and has been for at least 2000 miles, the wire supplying the power to the fuel pump reads 12.0 and it run directly to fuel pump connector.

new problem:
bike stops running when it feels like it. yesterday while out for a quick run thru the twisties coming around a corner bike power shuts down. Coast to a stop listen for fuel pump and nothing turn key on and off a couple times still can't here the fuel pump, take off the seat remove fuse box from its holder which is right where the splice is, reconnect the fuel pump wire together and fuel pump goes back on. Push wires back down and put fuse box back on holder and back on my way, bike ran great the rest of a spritied ride. This is the 2nd time in 4 days that has happened although the first was leaving for work in the morning after bike sat all night.

side note:
have noticed the radiator fan has not come on all summer when in use during "hot" rides, also the overheating "dummy" light has never come on either although all works when keyed on (precheck). I did do a radiator flush and refilled with water wetter and the fan does work when power ran directly from battery just hasn't gone on from bike again neither has the overheating light. Could the bike just be running that much cooler after the flush and using water wetter?

Anyhow i really like this bike and have a blast on it in all different kinds of riding, It's handling great after some suspension mods and is a blast as a all-around town commuter and would be the most fun bike owned for riding if the electrical gremlins would go away. Anyway to get a schematics on the electrical would hopefully help me solve the issue.
I have been chasing another issue with strange behaviour in the electrical department.
My XC has similar milage to yours backyardorganics. After a good spirited run, stop then fuse (F) blows on hitting the starter button upon re start attempt. Replace fuse multiple times before finally co operating. Cold start was always good.
My auto electrician tested and concluded there must be an intermittent short somewhere in the loom between starter switch and starter relay so that has been by passed. Have't had time to ride since so hopefully it is good now.
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Old 08-23-2011, 01:45 AM   #440
tbarstow
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Viva Lost Wages!
Oddometer: 3,109
Quote:
Originally Posted by backyardorganics View Post
07
Xch
10,000 miles


new problem:
bike stops running when it feels like it. yesterday while out for a quick run thru the twisties coming around a corner bike power shuts down. Coast to a stop listen for fuel pump and nothing turn key on and off a couple times still can't here the fuel pump, take off the seat remove fuse box from its holder which is right where the splice is, reconnect the fuel pump wire together and fuel pump goes back on. Push wires back down and put fuse box back on holder and back on my way, bike ran great the rest of a spritied ride. This is the 2nd time in 4 days that has happened although the first was leaving for work in the morning after bike sat all night.

side note:
have noticed the radiator fan has not come on all summer when in use during "hot" rides, also the overheating "dummy" light has never come on either although all works when keyed on (precheck). I did do a radiator flush and refilled with water wetter and the fan does work when power ran directly from battery just hasn't gone on from bike again neither has the overheating light. Could the bike just be running that much cooler after the flush and using water wetter?

Anyhow i really like this bike and have a blast on it in all different kinds of riding, It's handling great after some suspension mods and is a blast as a all-around town commuter and would be the most fun bike owned for riding if the electrical gremlins would go away. Anyway to get a schematics on the electrical would hopefully help me solve the issue.
Check the electrical connections INSIDE your ignition switch. Solved every other electrical gremlin. I'm on my 3rd switch.
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:12 AM   #441
dirtsurfer
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Joined: May 2006
Location: between the bings
Oddometer: 1,627
Quote:
Originally Posted by backyardorganics View Post
07
Xch
10,000 miles

problem:
Still have the fuel pump issue, it won't pump fuel when connected? Dealer(s) say they can fix but can't tell me how? already cost me $110 which was during warranty and still dealer didn't fix. So this is what is happening, fuel pump works fine when connected to power source, when connected to the connector on wire harness power gets cut to pump as soon as connected, not all the wires (there are 4) just the one responsible for pumping fuel. When disconnected the wire on the harness reads 8.0, right when touched to connector it goes to 0.0?

remedy:
added (spliced) a wire from power source coming from fuse box (the same fuse controlling radiator fan). Fuel pump is now always pumping fuel as soon as ignition is switched on and bike runs fine and has been for at least 2000 miles, the wire supplying the power to the fuel pump reads 12.0 and it run directly to fuel pump connector.

new problem:
bike stops running when it feels like it. yesterday while out for a quick run thru the twisties coming around a corner bike power shuts down. Coast to a stop listen for fuel pump and nothing turn key on and off a couple times still can't here the fuel pump, take off the seat remove fuse box from its holder which is right where the splice is, reconnect the fuel pump wire together and fuel pump goes back on. Push wires back down and put fuse box back on holder and back on my way, bike ran great the rest of a spritied ride. This is the 2nd time in 4 days that has happened although the first was leaving for work in the morning after bike sat all night.

side note:
have noticed the radiator fan has not come on all summer when in use during "hot" rides, also the overheating "dummy" light has never come on either although all works when keyed on (precheck). I did do a radiator flush and refilled with water wetter and the fan does work when power ran directly from battery just hasn't gone on from bike again neither has the overheating light. Could the bike just be running that much cooler after the flush and using water wetter?

Anyhow i really like this bike and have a blast on it in all different kinds of riding, It's handling great after some suspension mods and is a blast as a all-around town commuter and would be the most fun bike owned for riding if the electrical gremlins would go away. Anyway to get a schematics on the electrical would hopefully help me solve the issue.
I replaced my fuel pump only to find that it shares a fuse with the radiator fan which had a siezed motor. New fan and the bike runs like new. No fuse problems - I have a spare fuel pump though
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Old 08-23-2011, 07:44 AM   #442
backyardorganics
Dubletruble
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: high desert
Oddometer: 59
Quote:
Check the electrical connections INSIDE your ignition switch. Solved every other electrical gremlin. I'm on my 3rd switch.
thanx for the reply:

I looked at the ignition switch and the connectors seemed fine, nothing lose or corroded and the soldered tabs seemed good. What kind of "gremlins" were you experiencing ? If it really is that simple it would be great but seems like the ignition switch only allows power to the bike, but if you were suffering same problems then that may be the answer. When you say "inside your ignition switch" do you mean taking it apart or just where the wires connect ?

Also anyone know the easy way to check the radiator fan or the temperature sensor which would tell the radiator fan to go on ?
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Old 08-23-2011, 07:48 AM   #443
MTBiker78
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Poland
Oddometer: 184
Quote:
Originally Posted by backyardorganics View Post
Also anyone know the easy way to check the radiator fan or the temperature sensor which would tell the radiator fan to go on ?
just check private msg that I send U yesterday
you can disconnect round plug that goes to temp sensor (right side of the engine head) - with ignition turned on - fan should start to spin fast.
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Old 08-31-2011, 07:40 AM   #444
backyardorganics
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: high desert
Oddometer: 59
Quote:
But, it'd be interesting for somebody with the ildling stalling issue to hold the throttle wide open, turn the key on, - wait -, turn the key off, - wait, and then start the bike and see if it makes any difference. I would think it should but might not if theres too much sticky grime in the actuator.
for simplicity on reset:

removing power (battery) for 15 min or more will reset memory to zero. When the battery is reconnected should the reset of idle actuator still be done? (hold throttle open, turn key on, wait, turn key off) also when doing the reset this way should you hold throttle open while turning key off? (ie: hold throttle full open, turn key on, wait, turn key off while still holding throttle full open, wait, turn key on start as normal after precheck complete), or should you let throttle go back to close before turning key off? Also will this reset other sensors (O2 sensor etc.)?
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Old 09-10-2011, 10:49 AM   #445
backyardorganics
Dubletruble
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: high desert
Oddometer: 59
so still can't get an electrical gremlin figured out. It started with the fuel pump stopped working for no reason while on a ride. After splicing wire from same fuse and running directly to fuel pump i was able to continue riding and did so all winter. Noticed radiator fan was never going on so tried MTBIKER78 suggestion "Please try to disconnect cable that goes to temprature sensor - round plug that goes to engine head (somewhere in the middle) on right side. With unpluged sensor and ignition turned on fan should spin. Just a test for fan operation." when i did this the fan didn't spin?, so ran a wire from battery to fan and fan worked fine.

After thinking about it some more the fan NOT turning on may have started the same time the fuel pump stopped pumping, (just never noticed since the fan only comes on when temp is high), this makes sense from the standpoint that both run from same fuse. So I'm still in same position fuel pump won't work when plugged into harness and radiator fan won't come on when temp goes up, although both work fine when power is supplies directly from battery. Just a side note the "dummy" light on the console does work when the temp gets high enough so it tells me the bike is overheating but doesn't turn fan on to help cool it off. What is the easy answer?

since i'm a basic dumbass when it comes to this kind of fix hopefully the smart inmates may know the answer.
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Old 09-10-2011, 12:14 PM   #446
Butters
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: NoVA
Oddometer: 2,341
It actually sounds like you're pretty close to solving it. I don't have a diagram, but based upon what you've said:

The fuel pump and fan are on the same circuit.
Your loads function properly when directly connect to the battery - therefore

So somewhere in that circuit you have an Open. Most likely at a point common to both before the loads unless they share the same wiring/ground point after the load. There can't be a whole lot of wiring to check, although I can fully understand not wanting to venture into the loom if it is bundled up. An alternative would just be to run a new wire and bypass whatever region you determine the problem to be.

I realize this is all stuff you probably know, but it sounds like you're pretty close. Since the problem is in one circuit, I would think the odds are some loose/corroded connector. But chaffed wires are always possible on motos.
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Old 09-10-2011, 01:16 PM   #447
backyardorganics
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: high desert
Oddometer: 59
something new just found out:

decided to do some continuity checks, checked green/brown wire going to fuel pump the wire responsible for activating/powering the fuel pump and it showed continuity to ground (the frame in this case). when the connector is out (disconnected) and i touch the probe to pin for the wire it shows no continuity, but right when connector is plugged in it shows continuity? this is just too strange, makes sense that when connected as planned the fuel pump is grounding out which is why it isn't working but why? The only time i can get continuity between wire & frame is when connector plugged in, took connector off disassembled to check fittings and everything seems good, this just doesn't make sense.
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Old 09-10-2011, 03:46 PM   #448
Tomdog
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Kiwi on the Gold Coast. Australia
Oddometer: 310
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomdog View Post
I have been chasing another issue with strange behaviour in the electrical department.
My XC has similar milage to yours backyardorganics. After a good spirited run, stop then fuse (F) blows on hitting the starter button upon re start attempt. Replace fuse multiple times before finally co operating. Cold start was always good.
My auto electrician tested and concluded there must be an intermittent short somewhere in the loom between starter switch and starter relay so that has been by passed. Have't had time to ride since so hopefully it is good now.
Hasn't missed a beat since loom by pass
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:04 PM   #449
backyardorganics
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: high desert
Oddometer: 59
well the xch is back together and going for ride to newcombs ranch tomorrow AM. sometimes "whatever works" is better then figuring out!! took butters advice "An alternative would just be to run a new wire and bypass whatever region you determine the problem to be." and hope the same result as tomdog "My auto electrician tested and concluded there must be an intermittent short somewhere in the loom between starter switch and starter relay so that has been by passed. Have't had time to ride since so hopefully it is good now.

Hasn't missed a beat since loom by pass"

I now have wire bypass for fuel pump same bypass for the last year, and now have manual switch to control radiator fan. It ended up being quite easy and very stealth and i like having the ability to turn fan on - on the go - and if i forget the dummy light will call me a dumbass. With everything back together looking forward to a spirited run tomorrow thru the san gabriel mountains especially since a wicked flash flood storm hit today, and my new & refined suspension will be tested.

PS:
for what it's worth came to conclusion that there is a short in the fuel pump. The pin which turns the fuel pump on has continuity to ground/frame - this should not be - but explains why when each wire was tested independently when disconnected showed proper voltage but when connected the fuel pump wire went to zero (shorted out). oh well just hope the bike doesn't pull another stop running in the middle of LA traffic during rush hour again, or worse on the freeway, or even worse 20 miles into fire roads up in the mountains!!!
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Old 09-26-2011, 05:50 PM   #450
Pegless
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Spokane WA
Oddometer: 12
Question Ignition switch causing dash lights to flash - G650X Challenge

OK, so I was having the same problem with my 07 G650X Challenge. When I turned on the key, the ignition (instrument lights) would go on, then off, and then come back on. It was like the ECU was resetting or something.

In the beginning it only did it once and a while, and only did it when I first turned the key on. Later, it started doing it while the bike was running, first just after being started, and later it did it a few times after the bike had been running and was moving at speed. The bike would just turn off, reset, lights come back on, and then I could bump start or restart the bike with the button while riding.

I looked high and low for what could cause this issue… It was unnerving… I mean I go deep into the middle of nowhere on this bike and had little confidence in it… figuring that one day it would just go black and not restart…

Then I found this thread and tried about everything, checked all the connections, looked at the harness for wear, moved the CAN Bus I had mounted close to the battery, but it wasn’t until I pushed up on the wires that go into the ignition that I found the culprit.

When I pushed up on the wires with the bike off, something in the electronics would make a clicking sound. So I disassembled the ignition and looked inside. Thinking it was the connection where the two wires hook to the switch itself. But it turns out that connection was fine, it was actually the other side of that plate that was causing the problem. The two connection points on the front were worn and grooved, most likely causing the connection to not being secure enough to provide the amps, current, or continuous connectivity the ECU was looking for causing it to reset (much like the battery problem others have found). See the picture.

So I jumped on line found me a new switch at Bike Bandit for about eighty bucks, installed it… and the problem was gone. In fact, I rode a 700 mile off road trip the next weekend and had no issues at all.

Another modification I did before I reinstalled the switch was to take some silicone and fill the bottom open cavity of the switch. I did this, and zip tie the wires to the switch, to help stabilize the wire bundle and hold the bottom plate. I’m thinking this will hopefully slowing any additional wear to the contacts due to the vibrations that happen while the bike is moving.

So with approximately 12k on the bike, keep your fingers crossed, I am figuring I’ll see the problem back in about 3 years…


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Marc
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