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Old 09-26-2011, 08:50 PM   #451
DESERT SCORPION
SINGLE TRACK
 
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: SINGLE TRACK IN THE WOODS
Oddometer: 122
Cool2 I told you so

Originally Posted by DESERT SCORPION (July, 2008)
I have had quite a few thumpers and I would have to say that cold start stalling is not inherent to the breed. My X-challenge used to stall when cold, but I believe the problem was a defective ignition switch. Since fixing the switch, the problem has gone away. If anything, the X-challenge has more flywheel than some singles like an XL-600. One of the reasons I purchased the X-challenge was to just hit the E button and go. This is normally the case, even at temperatures barely above freezing. When the ignition switch decided to go south, the bike began exhibitiing unpredicatable sudden stalling, often just as I began taking off in first gear. The other symptom of a bad switch was that my display would come on when I turned the key, but just when it should complete its check mode, the entire display would go away. Wiggling the key would usually bring everything back to life. I'll explain the ignition switch fix in detail if anyone is interested.

9-26-11:
This switch may easily be fixed if you get to it before the dirt-contaminated grease wears it out mechanically. Clean it off really good when it is apart like shown, then put it back together absolutely dry. The wipers will stay clean when they slide over the stationary contacts. After snapping the assembly back tegether, I RTV'd the various holes that allow dust to enter the switch. Also I used a large diameter piece of electrical shrink tubing over the whole body of the switch. It does not seal tightly against the wires where they exit out the bottom to allow natural drainage and venting to prevent the switch from becoming permanently moist-laden. My original repaired switch is still with me three years later. Total bike milage 16k+.
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:53 AM   #452
DESERT SCORPION
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: SINGLE TRACK IN THE WOODS
Oddometer: 122
Grungy steering head bearings

Here is an issue to log in from my 'x' files. A few days ago, while riding the x, I felt like I was either drunk or dizzy. Being neither, I of course blamed the bike. Actually this sensation is a classic example of a sticky steering head. I decided to take the bull by the horns and rip right into the problem. After pulling the upper triple clamp and dropping the forks I found a couple of dirty and sorry looking bearings. BMW, in their divine wisdom, decided to only coat them very sparingly with a thin clear grease which has attracted an amazing amount of dirt. Not pretty. I cleaned everything up and coated them liberally with waterproof boat trailer grease. All buttoned up and now it tracks precisely again.

The steering head on these bikes has no lip seals, as found on many bikes. It just has shields that 'shelter' the bearings from the outside environment. I have hammered down quite a few dusty roads with mine, often chasing someone else's dust. Apparently that's enough to pollute the grease (after five years & 16,000 miles). You can interpolate what this might mean for your own mount, but I suggest that one would be wise to clean and repack them at around 8k to 10k miles.

THE SCORPION
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:00 PM   #453
backyardorganics
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: high desert
Oddometer: 59
Glad pegless & desert scorpian shared their issues which gives me new hope. Been meaning to repack the steering head bearings but just haven't, the Xch has been slowly starting to get a slow "weave" on the front end at speeds above 90mph and is downright scary at full speed (112mph on my speedo). Have worked the problem out thru suspension settings new springs etc., however even thou weave is gone and bike is comfortable at 112mph it still doesn't feel as connected to the road as it use to., can't wait to repack the bearings for that fix.

"A few days ago, while riding the x, I felt like I was either drunk or dizzy" maybe both?

Thanx for the pic Pegless, sure hope the ignition is the culprit on my Xch also, you have a part number on the switch you used from bike bandit?

for newest update the radiator fan is not switching on and fuel pump is still not pumping. I figured out that the fuel pump prong which is responsible for pumping fuel shows continuity to ground?, so right when connector is plugged in current goes to zero, the new wire i ran from same fuse does operate the fuel pump which is how i've been riding it since last winter. Also ran new wire from battery positive to switch then to radiator fan so i can operate radiator fan manually whenever i want by clickng switch on, all seemed well and took bike out for some spirited runs thru mountains & fire roads. When bike does die everything else stays on, coast to stop remove seat unplug that one wire on fuel pump connector, plug it back in and bike operates again as usual, put seat back on and finish the ride so far it hasn't happened more then once on a ride. NEW PROBLEM - now when riding and turn radiator fan on manually from switch all seems good until i turn key off, the bike keeps running? This is too crazy as long as fan is running bike won't shut down, if i turn key off bike keeps running until i hit radiator switch off then bike shuts down like i turned the key off. If i turn fan off 1st then key shuts down bike as usual but if fan is left on can turn key off bike will keep running like i did nothing then shuts down like normal when clicking radiator fan switch, this makes no sense as the raditor fan is only being provided power from battery - just to weird
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:06 PM   #454
backyardorganics
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: high desert
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"I'll explain the ignition switch fix in detail if anyone is interested."

i'm interested if u want to explain on email instead of here that be cool - thanx in advance
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:07 AM   #455
marked
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Joined: Oct 2008
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Question a guess at whats up

Hi,
I reckon that when the ECU wants the pump of it must provided resistance to ground so the the energy from the pump motors coil can be dissipated. When it wants the pump on it disconnects the near ground and supplies 12v power.

i have a weird problem with g650x - fuel pump fuse blows when in deep water. - maybe the T fan ia on the same fuse - it could blow if fan is locked rotor submerged in water ??
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:27 AM   #456
marked
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Puke fuel pump fuse blows in deep water.

My X dies in deep water - Any ideas hy the fuel pump fuse would blow in deep water?

Model: ( xChallenge)
Year: 2008
ABS: Y
Mileage at time of issue: 7000
Date of occurrence:
Modifications (if any): pipe , LED
Description of Failure(s): Stalls in deep water - problem was ->No fuel to fuel pump
(blown fuse)
Resolution (if any):
Reference Thread:
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Old 10-12-2011, 01:07 PM   #457
michel700c
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: north Georgia
Oddometer: 17
Would not idle when cold

My 2008 X Country with 13,000 miles would not idle when first started cold.(Fall weather in Georgia, 60-70degrees F) It would start fine, but required opening the throttle to keep from dying. Once warmed up it idled fine.
I tried the throttle reset procedure posted here on ADV Rider (thanks...Drone?) and that did the trick!

Reset procedure, engine cold.
Key on. Throttle full open, throttle full closed. Throttle full open, throttle full closed. Key off.
Start engine, once idle is established, key off.

Previous issues- battery died, replaced under warranty. Front brake rotor warped, replaced along with new brake pads under warranty. Battery died, replaced under recall (bonus!!)
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Old 10-14-2011, 04:05 AM   #458
dirtsurfer
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Joined: May 2006
Location: between the bings
Oddometer: 1,627
Quote:
Originally Posted by marked View Post
My X dies in deep water - Any ideas hy the fuel pump fuse would blow in deep water?

Model: ( xChallenge)
Year: 2008
ABS: Y
Mileage at time of issue: 7000
Date of occurrence:
Modifications (if any): pipe , LED
Description of Failure(s): Stalls in deep water - problem was ->No fuel to fuel pump
(blown fuse)
Resolution (if any):
Reference Thread:
i can tell you that the fuel pump and radiator fan share a fuse if that is any help
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Old 10-27-2011, 02:16 AM   #459
Lankbrown
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Melbourne,OZ
Oddometer: 63
Fuel Pump connection.

Looking for some advice. I recently found that the connection from my wiring loom to the top of the petrol tank has corroded, heat has been generated and melt a small whole at the base of the pin. The petrol tank now has a small leak and the female plug on both the wiring loom in the tank and the external loom needs replacing.

BMW can not supply the new components even if I wanted to buy the whole unit for AUS$710 it is not available. Does any one know of any connections that can be used inside the tank and any suggestions on how to seal the new loom that I have to create that runs through the original plug mounting point.

Any advice welcome
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:03 AM   #460
backyardorganics
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: high desert
Oddometer: 59
Quote:
Looking for some advice. I recently found that the connection from my wiring loom to the top of the petrol tank has corroded, heat has been generated and melt a small whole at the base of the pin. The petrol tank now has a small leak and the female plug on both the wiring loom in the tank and the external loom needs replacing.

BMW can not supply the new components even if I wanted to buy the whole unit for AUS$710 it is not available. Does any one know of any connections that can be used inside the tank and any suggestions on how to seal the new loom that I have to create that runs through the original plug mounting point.

Any advice welcome
when you say "top of petrol tank" do you mean the connector on the fuel pump?

Quote:
the female plug on both the wiring loom in the tank
is this plug actually inside the fuel tank or part of the fuel pump that sits inside the fuel tank?

if you have any pics of the issue that would help.
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Old 10-28-2011, 01:58 PM   #461
Lankbrown
No Pain No Gain
 
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Melbourne,OZ
Oddometer: 63
Fuel Pump connection.

Quote:
Originally Posted by backyardorganics View Post
when you say "top of petrol tank" do you mean the connector on the fuel pump?

is this plug actually inside the fuel tank or part of the fuel pump that sits inside the fuel tank?

if you have any pics of the issue that would help.

The connection on the wiring loom inside the tank is damage and the connection on the main loom. The earth connection corroded and heated melting the pin on the cap. The picture shows the pin missing which pulled through when removing the plug.
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Old 11-01-2011, 12:27 AM   #462
LangKat
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Johannesburg
Oddometer: 68
Dashlight staying on

Model: xChallenge
Year:2008
ABS: yes
Mileage at time of issue: 5000km
Modifications: N/A

When I turn the bike off the backlight of the dash stays on. I tried pulling out the fuse for the dash and putting it back in but that didn't solve the problem. At work so can't take a proper look at it. Any ideas?

Edit: Problem went away. I didn't have a chance to take the dash out and see what caused the problem. Probably water in the dash or ignition.

LangKat screwed with this post 11-03-2011 at 11:15 PM
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:42 PM   #463
SMDrew
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Tri-Valley, CA
Oddometer: 16
I have yet to talk to the dealership about this one. It's an annoyance, but I feel relevant, and want to see if anyone else has this issue.

Model: xMoto
Year: 2007
ABS: Y
Mileage at time of issue: First observed at ~5000 miles
Date of occurrence: First observed ~ 3 months ago
Modifications (if any): Only fuel system mod is Leo Vince pipe; street insert (smallest ID)
Description of Failure(s): Lightened coloring on tank, horizontally level, ~2/3 up from the bottom
Resolution (if any): TBD
Reference Thread: N/A

Basically, I suspect the plastic material in the tank is not equipped to handle the ethanol content in the fuel. The result is a fading of the black color from the tank. The line is a non-pronounced line that runs front-to-back; the line is level with the ground when the bike is on its sidestand. I know it is not from chafing from my gear, as the line extends back to the subframe, beyond where my legs would reach.
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:07 PM   #464
leafman60
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Oddometer: 1,528
Gas cap update -

Whew. OK. Stephan Scheff is supposedly working on this too.

He currently makes a standard Acerbis type cap and he wants to use the cap he currently makes etc. He wants to cut a flat flange with three bolts to replace what is on the tank as a stock set-up (6 bolts) and then weld a filler neck to accept his cap onto this new flange. The bolts holding the flange will have to be sealed. I dont think the stock bolts are fuel-tight since the stock cap's sealing ring is outside the bolt pattern perimeter.

I am not particularly keen on this approach although I have looked at a similar set-up that uses another universal cap. I dont want it to look half-assed and improvised, however.

I also have spent some time designing a machined twist-lock cap to simply replace the stock cap and work with the stock flange on the gas tank. I have met with a machinist and discussed this plan. It can be done. You'd be surprised at how involved the design becomes when you try to balance form versus function. There are many factors that come into play. For example, the sealing rubber on the cap needs to be placed in such a way as not to provide a conduit for fuel drip when the cap is removed. Little things like that.

I am still working on it. However, in the mean time, I have discovered how ( I think) to fix the leaking stock cap.

I do not have pictures yet but the fix is rather simple. You need to replace two seals. 1. The flat rubber gasket that seals to the tank flange and 2. a small o-ring that is internal and seals the lock cylinder.

The flat rubber cap seal can be made from a suitable material obtained from a rubber supply house or maybe even an auto parts store. I purchased both some nitrile and some neoprene. The thickness that I used is supposed to be 1/16 inch and it is apparently just a slightly thicker dimension than the stock seal. You simply take the stock seal and draw its imprint on the new material and then cut the gasket with scissors and poke 4 holes for the securing screws with a sharp object.

The little o-ring that is about 1/2 inch in diameter can also be purchased as a standard stock item. The one I bought is made from viton (good stuff).

Ok, now. How to get these parts out of the cap. It is easy.

Turn the cap upside down. There is a single little shiny pin that olds everything together. The pin is less then 1/8 inch diamter and maybe 5/8 inch long. You can see it in a recess at the end of the center green plastic piece. You can also see that it is designed to slide out an opening on one side. However, you will also see that it is trapped to prevent an errant sliding out in use.

Place the cap upside down on a table. Press down on the center plastic piece to compress the spring that keeps tension on everything. This will allow the pin to clear it's channel. While compressing, take a small screwdriver and slide the pin out. Everything comes apart then, two plastic pieces and the spring.

Slide the key into the lock and the lock cylinder will release and slide out. The o-ring to seal the cylinder is down in the bore out of which the cylinder slides.

Remove the four screws that secure the plastic retainer over the cap gasket and you can then remove that gasket.

This is not nearly as complicated as it sounds and it is hard to screw up getting things back together since it can only go back correctly.

When you re-insert the cylinder be sure to have the key in it and twist it until it seats down in it's bore or you will never be able to compress everything enough to re-insert the little pin that holds everything.

I was able to use two of the o-rings in place of only one and still get everything to go back together.

I noticed that when I finished everything and re-fitted the gas cap, it tightened down noticably more snugly. I assume this is due to a slightly thicker sealing gasket. I can also feel the increased drag of the tighter o-ring seals on the lock cylinder when I open and close the lock.

I've had mine full of fuel for a while and everything is holding tight. No leaks.
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:19 PM   #465
Buffalo Bill
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: North Idaho
Oddometer: 997
Engine stalling after start

I was experiencing the engine stalling after start that has been addressed on here several times...For me the bike would start fine, then quit after about 30 seconds of idling..the stalling would usually only happen when starting a cold engine...As temps cooled into the fall and then winter months the bike would stall several times and need to be restarted until it reached normal operating temps..

I explained my problem to Service Dept at Engle Motors in KC...They fixed the problem by replacing a temperature sensor in the radiator...I have had the bike out several times since getting it back and have not experienced the cold engine stalling...It appears the sensor was the problem..
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