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Old 04-13-2012, 04:55 PM   #481
JonBryant
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Seacoast, NH
Oddometer: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by velofleche View Post
Bike intermittently fails to start when warm. Seems to have plenty of cranking amps to turn but won't fire up. Only solution i have thus far discovered is to walk away for 10mins. At least for now that seems to work, But for obvious reasons i am looking to resolve this, would greatly appreciate any input?
Funny, mine is the opposite, if i let it sit for 10 minutes i can't get it to idle. It'll fire up then die. Same thing happens when it's cold after a night sitting. Love the bike, but might find something different (F800GS)
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:37 PM   #482
Butters
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: NoVA
Oddometer: 2,380
Just curious . . . do you guys still have your charcoal canisters? Just wondering if it could be a venting issue collapsing a fuel line. Not sure if that's even possible, but I can't really visualize the setup in my head. But I've heard of similar things in cars.
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:13 PM   #483
August West
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Stevensville, MT
Oddometer: 550
No canister on mine.
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:42 PM   #484
JonBryant
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Location: Seacoast, NH
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nope, no canister either.
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:14 PM   #485
wiggins
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Muenster, TX
Oddometer: 30
Hot Starts

Guys, my bike 2009 XCountry when new would not restart a lot of times after riding, but would always start cold. I took it back to the dealer and after a lot of trial and error they said the injector was sticking. They called Germany and talked to a head engineer and he thought it was because of the ethanol in our fuel. Ethanol has some water in it and the injector being new and tight was seizing up because of the water content. They replaced the injector and again it would not start after being warmed up, I called the dealer from the side of the road and he said to tap the injector with a screwdriver with the key on and then see if it startes, it started every time I tapped the injector. I figured out the injector needed some lubrication so I started adding 2 stroke oil to the fuel every time I fuel up, after that it has never failed to start hot or cold. I would put in one bottle of the 2 stroke oil (just a couple on ounces) like you use on a chainsaw, I did this for about 500 to 750 miles and then quit using the 2 stroke oil and it has been starting every time. You can take the seat off and look towards the front under the plastic and see the injector with just enough room to tap the injector (again with the key to the run position) and mine would always fire up when hot.
The bike now has about 6,000 miles on it and it has not given me any more problems, I only used the 2 stroke for about 5 or 6 tank refuelings. I think the new injector just need a little lubrication until it loosened up.
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Old 04-15-2012, 05:45 AM   #486
GSALite
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Conesus Lake, NY
Oddometer: 723
Nice! I will have to remember that. Thanks for the info.
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Old 04-17-2012, 06:05 AM   #487
Max Kool
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Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 3,228
Still thinking the cause for bad starting on a hot engine is the autodecompression lever. Lever stuck in "closed" position. Compression too big, starter has a hard job to cranck the engine, and bike won't start.

I checked mine the other day (removed valve cover) and found the side surface is a bit rough. I will remove it and try to polish the sides. Which I can't do on my own, because you need to release the cam chain tension "with a proper tool" before removal of the exhaust camshaft.

...which I don't have..
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Old 04-18-2012, 12:52 AM   #488
Lankbrown
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Melbourne,OZ
Oddometer: 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lankbrown View Post
I brought an 07 Xchallenge in late 2009. The bike has now done 74,000 kms and I really enjoy the bike. It has been modified in many area generally to make it a great Adv bike.

Recently it has started to develop a miss fire to the point that it is now in the garage waiting patiently for attention. I am going to clear the throttle body over the week end as I have purchased a new Idle Control Device because it is covered in crap tried an initial basic clean that had some improvement but after reading the treads a thorough job need to done.

The only thing that worries me is the miss fire. The miss fire increases as the bike gets warm which usually indicates coils. They are very expensive in OZ and wondered if anyone else has replaced theirs.

Cheers
Problem solved. The wife cleaned the throttle body, she refuses to clean the mud off the bike for me but give her some part to clean and it comes back spotless. Replaced the Idle Control Device and put in a new set of spark plus and no more missfire no more fast idle and the bike feels normal.

Going away this week end and expect to do 1500+k's in OZ we always do alot of k's and hopefully things will run smoothly.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:17 PM   #489
Miguel Pedro
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Joined: Sep 2010
Oddometer: 21
Hi to all!
Last month my free wheel died!!
Let me share with you all the work I done.
1st, I had to make my on puller (BMW in Portugal don’t sell them)


2nd , with the help of some heat I pull the magnetic well out





3 The free wheel was completed wasted.




These parts are very expensive, so I decide to put only the free wheel. KTM uses the same free wheel and is cheaper!!



After some polish, the three parts are ready to put together:




Now the bike starts very well, I’m very satisfied with the job!!

SKF makes a free wheel with the right dimensions for the X, but seems like that they don’t sell it to public!!!!!
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:50 AM   #490
imeny
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Location: Israel
Oddometer: 129
Thanks for sharing with us.
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Old 04-28-2012, 05:52 AM   #491
DocRogers
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiggins View Post
Guys, my bike 2009 XCountry when new would not restart a lot of times after riding, but would always start cold. I took it back to the dealer and after a lot of trial and error they said the injector was sticking. They called Germany and talked to a head engineer and he thought it was because of the ethanol in our fuel. Ethanol has some water in it and the injector being new and tight was seizing up because of the water content. They replaced the injector and again it would not start after being warmed up, I called the dealer from the side of the road and he said to tap the injector with a screwdriver with the key on and then see if it startes, it started every time I tapped the injector. I figured out the injector needed some lubrication so I started adding 2 stroke oil to the fuel every time I fuel up, after that it has never failed to start hot or cold. I would put in one bottle of the 2 stroke oil (just a couple on ounces) like you use on a chainsaw, I did this for about 500 to 750 miles and then quit using the 2 stroke oil and it has been starting every time. You can take the seat off and look towards the front under the plastic and see the injector with just enough room to tap the injector (again with the key to the run position) and mine would always fire up when hot.
The bike now has about 6,000 miles on it and it has not given me any more problems, I only used the 2 stroke for about 5 or 6 tank refuelings. I think the new injector just need a little lubrication until it loosened up.
I'm gonna have to try that with the big bike (1200 GSA) - I've had the injectors cleaned twice on what is still essentially a new bike (4K miles). Thanks!
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:06 AM   #492
jezuar
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: SPAIN
Oddometer: 131
Quote:
Originally Posted by velofleche View Post
Bike intermittently fails to start when warm. Seems to have plenty of cranking amps to turn but won't fire up. Only solution i have thus far discovered is to walk away for 10mins. At least for now that seems to work, But for obvious reasons i am looking to resolve this, would greatly appreciate any input?
Same here else, I think it's the sensor temperature in the radiator

That makes me think that the warning light check high temperature multifunction display does not light in the pre-ride check.

jezuar screwed with this post 04-29-2012 at 10:19 AM
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:14 PM   #493
FinnDuro
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Kool View Post
Still thinking the cause for bad starting on a hot engine is the autodecompression lever. Lever stuck in "closed" position. Compression too big, starter has a hard job to cranck the engine, and bike won't start.
I checked mine the other day (removed valve cover) and found the side surface is a bit rough. I will remove it and try to polish the sides. Which I can't do on my own, because you need to release the cam chain tension "with a proper tool" before removal of the exhaust camshaft.
...which I don't have..
Max, you don't actually need a special tool for the cam chain. The chain has just enough slack in it, to remove the camshafts as is. First remove the intake camshaft, then the exhaust autocomp side camshaft can be popped out, as well. Same story when you need to adjust your valve cleareances. Been there done that.

I'd check the valve clearances, intake side may be too tight - resulting in bad hot starting especially.
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Old 05-03-2012, 04:11 AM   #494
dajg
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Angola heading north...
Oddometer: 65
does anyone have a step by step guide to checking valve clearances? what tools are required and what measurements are you looking for?

cheers
dave
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Old 05-03-2012, 04:33 AM   #495
FinnDuro
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by dajg View Post
does anyone have a step by step guide to checking valve clearances? what tools are required and what measurements are you looking for?

cheers
dave
The procedure is the same as for earlier F650GS/Dakar models. We just have less stuff to remove.
So F650.com FAQs ( http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/Valve_Shim_Change_FAQ_GS.htm ) get it done. I used the "Alternative method/ABS bikes" method describe there, as it is the easiest, least parts off type of method.
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