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Old 07-29-2009, 08:55 PM   #31
BarryT OP
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Location: Edwards AFB California (Rosamond CA)
Oddometer: 546
When I lift the brushes the light goes out. I am lost at this point. I guess I will put everything down and try again tomorrow. I havent tested the diode yet, but 1st i have to figure out why I have no spark now.


-barry
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Old 07-29-2009, 09:28 PM   #32
BarryT OP
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Well I pulled and checked fuses and wiggled wires now she fires right up. Well now I guess I will focuse on the charging system.

So as of now.

Gen light is on bright.

When I pull brushes the light goes out.

Rotor checks fine.

Stator does not have an open circuit.

Diode board looks new but has not been tested.


I guess tomorrow I will start with the diode board.

-barry
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Old 07-29-2009, 09:38 PM   #33
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brushes?
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:03 PM   #34
BarryT OP
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Well I could get a set and see if that cures my problem.


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Old 07-30-2009, 03:15 AM   #35
dduelin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryT
Well I could get a set and see if that cures my problem.


-barry
They are OK - the light went out when you lifted them and opened the circuit.

Test the diode board. A new one can be bad if the PO shorted the cover against it. And check again for the insulating washer under the left brush holder stud. I installed a new rotor once and misplaced this washer. When I started the bike the light was on bright and I had to do much of what you are doing now. It is a phenolic washer.

This is unlikely but a thought - did the PO install the new diode board on old rubber mounts and not ground it with the brown wires? Is the diode board solidly mounted at four points?
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Old 07-30-2009, 05:35 AM   #36
BarryT OP
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It has the raised mounts casted into the engine.


-barry
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Old 07-30-2009, 07:13 AM   #37
Wirespokes
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If the rotor has 3 ohms resistance, then it's most likely good.

The stators rarely go bad, and besides, yours doesn't have a shorted winding, and has continuity. So scratch that from the list.

The voltage regulator, when eliminated from the system didn't make any difference at all. That proves it's not contributing to this problem but doesn't prove it's good. We'll just assume it's good at this point and concentrate on locating the problem.

That leaves the diode board and connections.

Here's my thought: your system doesn't seem to be charging at all! I wouldn't expect that a diode board would blow all the diodes, especially a new one. Usually it's one or maybe two. Charging would still happen, but at a lower level.

With that reasoning in mind, I've got the idea the PO incorrectly hooked up the diode board or failed to make a few connections. And, I'm thinking it's the connections at the back of the board, the ones you'll have to undo the mounts to get at.

Word of Caution: be very careful re-attaching the stator! Make sure it's going back in straight and square! Don't try to force it by really torquing the screws because the aluminum mounting ears can break off. Not a good thing!
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Old 07-30-2009, 12:10 PM   #38
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HGi Guys!

I've been gone forw ahile and in fact, I'm still on my "Around America" tour.

I lost two days in Moab Utah with a similar problem that ended up being caused by a fairly new Diode board that tested good but went bad under use. This one even fooled a pro Airhead wrench.

Check that board and if theres any question, ask an expert for help. Riding is much more fun than chasing electrons!
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Old 07-30-2009, 03:11 PM   #39
BarryT OP
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Will do. i have the old diose board and will put it back in and see if the problem changes. If it does its the diode board.


-barry
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Old 07-30-2009, 05:39 PM   #40
BarryT OP
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Even with the old diode board it still acts the same. Now my turn signals dont work :(, but thats for another day. I am getting a digital meter and will be able to post exact readings for you guys. I think Im going to get ahold of thunderchild and see if I can send the diode to them for testing. I also checked for voltage to the diode to the battery to make sure my lines were good and all read ok.


-Barry
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:10 PM   #41
TimTowtdi
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I have heard that if you hook up the brushes backwards it can cause a no charge condition. I have never tried it or seen it myself, but you may try reversing the wires at the brushes. Maybe they are hooked up backwards. I don't know if it is even true, but it may be worth a try.

TT
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:48 PM   #42
BarryT OP
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Well here is some info! My digital meter really helped out, but I havent fixed anything yet.

Readings so far.

Rotor=3.5ohms
Stator= All combinations read an even .7ohms.


Thanks
-barry
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Old 07-31-2009, 03:03 AM   #43
AntonLargiader
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Have you checked the connections on the back of the diode board? Blue wire in the middle, three heavy wires secure on their terminals. Black wires go to the starter and the points; nothing to do with the alternator.
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