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Old 08-22-2009, 06:29 AM   #16
oo7alfa OP
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OK, I pulled it apart again last night and recleaned it again and ensure the pilot jet was clear, it is stock at 37.5. I had capped off the vacuum line on the top starboard side when I switched out the Raptor petcock, however mine does not have the second vacuum inlet that your picture shows, the one facing down next to the float.

The bike is now idling and running at all speeds, however, I am not really happy with the smoothness at idle. It will idle at 1800 rpms for a minute, then raise up to about 3000 for a second, then drop back down, it's all kind of erratic not rhythmic. I could run it this way and no one would even notice, but I will, and I would like it to be smoother.

On a side note, taking the carb apart the second time was so much easier and less stressful. Knowing I can do it now makes it a simple task. Total time to remove, disassemble, reclean and reinstall was about 20 minutes!

BTW, thanks again, and your picture helped alot. I hope you didn't take it apart just for me!
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Old 08-22-2009, 06:33 AM   #17
oo7alfa OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rivercreep
.........in regards to the pilot jet AND not just capping off any unused vaccuum ports but also checking the condition of any vaccuum hoses (look for cracking and dry rot)
In regards to the pilot jet. That sucker (and it's circuits within the carb) are soooo small, you could have very easily gotten dirt into it while cleaning the rest of the carb. I'd clean it again and force gumout and then air through the circuit passages.
What's the plug color?
If it's black, the bike could be getting too much fuel at sustained speeds and simply fouling out and dieing when you return to low idle speeds.

Also, before trouble shooting any carb issues; it's always best to make sure everything else is good like =
air-filter, valves in adjustment, muffler not restricted with crap etc.
I did just adjust the valves about 300 miles ago and check the air filter. I will say, the exhaust is creating a bit of Black residue on my rear fender. The spark plug looked good when I replaced it at the smae time as the valves.
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Old 08-22-2009, 11:31 AM   #18
Truckin_Thumper
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inspect your slide...make sure *IF* any holes were drilled they are GTG

diaphram... make sure it has no tears or holes

slide guide..... make sure the slide and guide move freely and no "snags"

sounds like the slide is sticking

Also the DR650 has the same carb (for the most part) and jets can be had from that.
A 140/142 and an open air box is the ticket at sea level up to about 3,000 feet

turn the air mix srew OUT (all the way in [snug not tight]) and then out between 2.25- 2.5 turns.

set the float level according to KienTech

you may also want to look at doing the "T" mad to the carb. Again KienTech

http://www.kientech.com/
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Old 08-22-2009, 03:31 PM   #19
oo7alfa OP
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Here is some video of it at idle. Give me your thoughts.
View My Video
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Old 08-23-2009, 08:45 AM   #20
mudmantra
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o rings

If you haven't already, replace these o-rings. also check your float setting.o-rings # 1 is an o-ring under the float needle seat.
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:15 AM   #21
oo7alfa OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudmantra
If you haven't already, replace these o-rings. also check your float setting. # 1 is an o-ring under the float needle seat.
How do I remove that O ring #1. I did not remove that when cleaning, and I knew there must be a way to remove the brass fitting, but I didn't want to force it and break something.

I did turn in the pilot screw to just 3/4 of a turn out and it did make a dramatic difference in the idle. It is now running consistantly at @ 1700-1800 rpms with little varience. I think with the bigger main jet, it was getting too much fuel and running rich, as soon as I leaned it out it was running very well. I am going to do some longer runs on it and make sure it will stay consistant and not stall at stops. So far so good.

Thanks again for all the help.
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Old 08-23-2009, 12:53 PM   #22
james1300
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Could it be a vacume LEAK?

Could it be a vacume leak?
How's the carb 'boot' between the head and carb?
Is ithe clamp tight?
The way to test it is, 'run the bike and get it warm'. With it idling, squirt a little WD-40 where the carb meets the boot. IF the engine RPM increases, the there's a leak. (Some people will use engine starting fluid. BUT thats dangerious)! Ker-WOOSH! Fire hazard!
Jim
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Old 08-24-2009, 06:24 AM   #23
mudmantra
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oring&seat it just pulls out
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Old 08-24-2009, 06:34 AM   #24
oo7alfa OP
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Wow! You are the man! Thanks for all your help.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:03 PM   #25
ryanwilliamcantrell
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Great thread ~ gave me lots of good ideas to mess with next weekend. My carb is giving me grief... I"ve got to crank the idle screw all the way in to get it to idle at 1800rpm, so something is obviously not set right.


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Old 09-04-2013, 06:40 AM   #26
wkbogie
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Thanks for all the Pics!

Jeez. Thanks so much for the pics on this thread!
Now I am not carb special.
Thanks guys!
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