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Old 08-27-2009, 03:50 PM   #91
Roonie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Law Dawg
It would also be very nice to have a detailed photo heavy walk through of upgrade and replacement of these bearings. Sounds like relatively inexpensive peace of mind.
I agree.... would feel more comfortable following something like this than just blazing the trail on my own seeing as I have never done this on a motorcycle. I have replaced many bearings on mtn bikes but that is the extent of it.
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Old 08-27-2009, 03:52 PM   #92
YetiGS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Law Dawg
Very interrested in the outcome here. It would also be very nice to have a detailed photo heavy walk through of upgrade and replacement of these bearings. Sounds like relatively inexpensive peace of mind.
If no one does it before I get mine I'll do it.
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:35 PM   #93
OtterChaos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS
Where are folks in the US getting their bearings from?
When I had to replace a bearing on my scooter (Piaggio MP-3) I took it to a local store that supplied bearings to all the auto shops in the area, bearings tend to be standard in their sizing so they should be able to find a correct replacement. The bearing shop took a look at the model number of my bearing and came back with just the right replacement so no waiting 2 months to get the official part from Italy. You may want to contact a local auto shop and see where they get their bearings from.
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Old 08-27-2009, 07:51 PM   #94
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BEARING INSTALL

Its pretty easy. The trick is putting the new bearing in the freezer for an hour before install. Then apply some heat to the hub. They will go right in, just make sure they are fully seated and no grease on the outboard side of the race. You dont want a spun bearing. If you dont have a bearing tool, I do, you could use a big socket. Important to make sure you only contact the outer race or rim on the bearing. If you contact anything inside of that and strike it, you will ruin the bearing.
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Old 08-27-2009, 08:21 PM   #95
Bayner
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Puke

Last week when I changed my rear tire, I thought a bearing felt a little 'notchy'. I blew it off as I have felt that effect before from the spacer between the bearings when there is no tension holding them together (if that makes any sense)...
Anyhew. After reading this thread I figured I'd better have a closer look and I'm damn glad I did. Rotor side bearing actually was on it's way out. Still would rotate, but not freely. Swapped the 2 in the hub out and left the cush drive alone as it felt great. I re-used the seal as it came out cleanly (I have plenty of experience here) and I couldn't get one locally on demand.
So if you have your tire off, better check that bearing.

Just under 12,000 kms if anyone is wondering. And no, nothing was done that would have shortened it's life. It had a small amount of grease when I popped the side off, maybe a third of what I'd repack one with...

And thanks Tmex for starting a thread about it, because without it I never would have gone back to double check it and would have found out it was toasted the hard way.
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Old 08-27-2009, 09:19 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayner
Last week when I changed my rear tire, I thought a bearing felt a little 'notchy'. I blew it off as I have felt that effect before from the spacer between the bearings when there is no tension holding them together (if that makes any sense)...
Anyhew. After reading this thread I figured I'd better have a closer look and I'm damn glad I did. Rotor side bearing actually was on it's way out. Still would rotate, but not freely. Swapped the 2 in the hub out and left the cush drive alone as it felt great. I re-used the seal as it came out cleanly (I have plenty of experience here) and I couldn't get one locally on demand.
So if you have your tire off, better check that bearing.

Just under 12,000 kms if anyone is wondering. And no, nothing was done that would have shortened it's life. It had a small amount of grease when I popped the side off, maybe a third of what I'd repack one with...

And thanks Tmex for starting a thread about it, because without it I never would have gone back to double check it and would have found out it was toasted the hard way.
Do much off roading? Stream Crossings? Power Wash the Bike? Stored in a garage?
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:30 PM   #97
Bayner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps
Do much off roading? Stream Crossings? Power Wash the Bike? Stored in a garage?
Coming from a dirtbike background I can honestly say this bearing failed very early. No pressure washing, stream crossings etc. Occassional mud puddle, but I live in the desert basically. Didn't bury it on the beach or anything either. Seal was fully intact (lip seal and bearing side cover).

Too much of a coincidence that the failing bearing seems to be the rotor side consistantly as well. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:25 PM   #98
bxr140
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FYI, just got my bike back after having the rear wheel bearings replaced...at 13k miles. The rotor side bearing was on its way out, and--not that I'm complaining--the dealer replaced all three. Took all of one day becuase they had bearings on order for someone else who ended up not needing them (...???), but I had to ride the stupid F800S loaner in the mean time. Beggars can't be choosers, I guess.

I suspect the bearings are susceptible to over torquing the rear axle. I'm usually pretty good about it though...in any event, I might start under torquing by a little bit to be safe. Now where did that safety wire go...
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:59 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxr140
I suspect the bearings are susceptible to over torquing the rear axle. I'm usually pretty good about it though...in any event, I might start under torquing by a little bit to be safe. Now where did that safety wire go...
Good point that, anyone else have an opinion?
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Old 08-28-2009, 02:05 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guzzimike
Good point that, anyone else have an opinion?
it makes no difference at all..

there is a centre spacer between the 2 bearings which set the preload so you could hang off the spanner when tightening your rear axle because it won't make a difference. it only tightens up between the 2 ID centres not actually affecting the bearing preload.


if the spacer was not present then tightening to spec the axle is important because you would be loading the bearing up on the internal race.


cheers.
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:58 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxr140
Took all of one day becuase they had bearings on order for someone else who ended up not needing them (...???), but I had to ride the stupid F800S loaner in the mean time. Beggars can't be choosers, I guess.
That was probably me. My hub is thrashed so I decided to get a better grade of bearing while waiting for the new wheel. I did not know the hub was gone when I ordered the bearings. Now I know why they told me not worry about coming in to pick up the bearings.

Seems senseless to replace the bearings with the stock part. I agree with LILGS that torque should not matter due to the spacer.

BTW, there are no wheels for the F800 in the USA. Seems like the supply chain is exhausted. I wonder why?

IMO the stock bearings are a time bomb. Tic, tic, tic,...

I think to make this bike right you need to:

1> replace all the bearings with a good grade of bearing, i.e. SKF, Timken,...

2> send the hubs to Woody to lace up a good grade of rim i.e. Excel

3> put an 18" rim out back while you are at it

I won't be riding my F8 again until all three of the above are done. BTW, you can have the wheels laced with larger spokes. I have seen Woody's work in this regard on a KTM wheel, and it is truly bomber.

You can probably complete the job for under $1000.

Not sure about the shock bolt issue Johngil and BrunoT experienced. So far I have not had this problem. I might look into that with some analytics while I am waiting to get my bike rolling again.
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:26 AM   #102
classyfun
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Interested in the how to.

When any of you guys tackle this project could you post up the pictures and a guide to what we should do to complete the project?

I believe that I as well as others have the skill to complete the project but it is so much easier to use the Trailblazers information as a resource.

Thanks to all of you for your research on this and many other problems!



Quote:
Originally Posted by tmex
That was probably me. My hub is thrashed so I decided to get a better grade of bearing while waiting for the new wheel. I did not know the hub was gone when I ordered the bearings. Now I know why they told me not worry about coming in to pick up the bearings.

Seems senseless to replace the bearings with the stock part. I agree with LILGS that torque should not matter due to the spacer.

BTW, there are no wheels for the F800 in the USA. Seems like the supply chain is exhausted. I wonder why?

IMO the stock bearings are a time bomb. Tic, tic, tic,...

I think to make this bike right you need to:

1> replace all the bearings with a good grade of bearing, i.e. SKF, Timken,...

2> send the hubs to Woody to lace up a good grade of rim i.e. Excel

3> put an 18" rim out back while you are at it

I won't be riding my F8 again until all three of the above are done. BTW, you can have the wheels laced with larger spokes. I have seen Woody's work in this regard on a KTM wheel, and it is truly bomber.

You can probably complete the job for under $1000.

Not sure about the shock bolt issue Johngil and BrunoT experienced. So far I have not had this problem. I might look into that with some analytics while I am waiting to get my bike rolling again.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:01 AM   #103
YetiGS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmex
IMO the stock bearings are a time bomb. Tic, tic, tic,...

I think to make this bike right you need to:
Is that your face twitching while the bike goes "tick, tick, tick . . ."







fwiw, I've already ordered replacement bearings and will install them when I get 'em. I'll do the rims and spokes when needed. This is my only bike and I want to ride it as long as I can before I take time off.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:17 AM   #104
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So 12-13 G gets you a bike with poor rims, poor bearings, smallish spokes ,anything else?

I'm not anti BMW at all. I test rode a GS 800 at Mid-Ohio and was in lust. I just don't have the dough to throw at one and hope it holds up. If BMW wants to sell a premium product at a premium price it damn well should hold up.
When they get their stuff together I'll still be here. Til then ,theres lots of bikes to choose from.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:29 AM   #105
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Well, I'm no blind BMW brand rider for sure but in their defense:
KTM uses the same rim (Beher)sp? as the 800 on the 950's. I know, I had one. Loved it btw.
My spokes are just as big and have not even needed adjustment yet. The weird thing on the spokes you see is the factory bend in them. Which is odd and questionable for sure. But so far, no problem with it for me anyway.
Bearings ? Its not unusual to use cheaper bearings and because the same bearing is going south on the bikes sings of something other than that. Otherwise all would go or they would go in a haphazard fashion, not the same location everytime. I think anyway. To be frank, I dont know am just guessing here. My opinion is worthless really. BTW, Just yesterday I re packed my stem bearing, it was greased with white moly and it was made in Japan not China
Just something to keep in mind is all.




Quote:
Originally Posted by bk brkr baker
So 12-13 G gets you a bike with poor rims, poor bearings, smallish spokes ,anything else?

I'm not anti BMW at all. I test rode a GS 800 at Mid-Ohio and was in lust. I just don't have the dough to throw at one and hope it holds up. If BMW wants to sell a premium product at a premium price it damn well should hold up.
When they get their stuff together I'll still be here. Til then ,theres lots of bikes to choose from.
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