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Old 12-09-2008, 10:46 AM   #2821
Eduardo Cabreira
The "7"
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Porto, Portugal
Oddometer: 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by locorider
Eduardo:
Never mind, you already stated you had a Varadero. You need to find an AT and modify it to do dirt!
Carlos...I crashed my former AT so bad even the engine broke

Now I drive a Dero wich has a LOT more power and also a LOOOOTTTT more weight!!!

I loved my AT and I wouldn´t change it a Dero but I had to let it go and I just thought..."what the hell...let´s try the big one".

It´s not as nimble as an AT but you can have fun with it too.

I´m turning it into a real dual-sports bike with 2 sets of wheels :

Dirt -> OEM "19 front + "17 rear with 80% dirt tires

Road -> "17 on both ends with sticky-as-gum road tires (120/70R17 + 180/55R17)

The rear wheel testing :



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2003 Aprilia Tuono / Africa Twin RD04
1999 Honda Varadero 1000 SM
1993 Cagiva-Ducati Elefant 900 GT ie (Italian job)
1996 Yamaha XJR1200 Cup-specs (Couldn´t fight the wind anymore)
1997 Honda Africa Twin SM (Loved it but crashed it)
1997 Honda VT750 ACE (just act as if you didn´t read this)
1989 Yamaha PW80 (Second bike...first one with gears)
1982 Yamaha PW50 (first bike...stil have it!)
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Old 12-09-2008, 11:51 AM   #2822
G-Funk
That ... Umm ..... "Dude"
 
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Pacific Northwest
Oddometer: 5,259
Bluhduh Well, crap .....

The unfortunate news is that there was a mistake made of some sort with the left fairing, and I won't be receiving it ......

The good news, as I mentioned, is there's one I'm watching on E-Bay Italy, and I already know the seller ships world wide.

The "gooder" news, is that the seller from Germany promptly refunded my money for the left fairing, so now all I have to do is wait about two more days to score the other left fairing.

Let's hope this transaction goes smoothly .......

G.
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:05 PM   #2823
G-Funk
That ... Umm ..... "Dude"
 
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Pacific Northwest
Oddometer: 5,259
Getting back to the gas tank for a moment ....

K, so I decided I'm just going to use the current sensors in my copper tank, and transfer them to the RWB tank.

With that said, is there any reason not to use the petcocks from the copper tank, on the RWB tank ??????

G.
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:39 PM   #2824
Jim Rowley
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Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Black Forest, Colorado
Oddometer: 2,510
No. Thats the bestest gooderer idea yet.
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:41 PM   #2825
locorider
Loco, pero no estúpido!
 
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Puerto Rico, U.S.A.
Oddometer: 2,422
Wise!

Sorry for the left fairing. Have you tried the fleamarket?

On the petcocks, I'll try to change the o-rings.

Ok, here is the picture I took of the handguards...front view...there are two more under TA Mods...





Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Funk
K, so I decided I'm just going to use the current sensors in my copper tank, and transfer them to the RWB tank.

With that said, is there any reason not to use the petcocks from the copper tank, on the RWB tank ??????

G.
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Carlos locorider
1989 Honda XL600V Transalp, slightly modified!

"If you don't follow your dreams, you might as well be a vegetable", Burt Munro, The World's Fastest Indian
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Old 12-09-2008, 03:11 PM   #2826
Andy G
2wheeled alpinist
 
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: eastern Munich outback, Bavaria, Germany
Oddometer: 551
Quote:
Originally Posted by ravelv
That noise is not on all bikes, on my transalp no noise, nx250, really noisy... Also when we looked for RD03 with friend of mine, one RD03 had quite big noise disappering when pressing clutch, second one, be bought, have no noise at all. In my opinion some bearing is cause of that.
AFAIK it's the small springs in the clutch basket (not the clutch springs, the other ones) which work themselfes into the clutch-basket. Some guys from the german AT-Forum replaced them with stronger / longer ones. For that they had to drill open the rivets on the clutch basket. It worked for some 10.000km, then the rattling came back. When I had the basked from Hardheaders RD03 in my hands two weeks ago you could move these springs about 1mm, so I can imagine that they are the reason...

Sorry, just what I heared, no real own experience...

Cheers, Andy
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Old 12-09-2008, 05:54 PM   #2827
G-Funk
That ... Umm ..... "Dude"
 
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Pacific Northwest
Oddometer: 5,259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Rowley
No. Thats the bestest gooderer idea yet.


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"The Funness out-weighs the Dumbness ....." - Mr. Jetmoto
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:05 PM   #2828
Hardheader
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Munich, Germany
Oddometer: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy G
AFAIK it's the small springs in the clutch basket (not the clutch springs, the other ones) which work themselfes into the clutch-basket. Some guys from the german AT-Forum replaced them with stronger / longer ones. For that they had to drill open the rivets on the clutch basket. It worked for some 10.000km, then the rattling came back. When I had the basked from Hardheaders RD03 in my hands two weeks ago you could move these springs about 1mm, so I can imagine that they are the reason...

Sorry, just what I heared, no real own experience...

Cheers, Andy
Maybe it´s the springs in the clutch, worn out friction-disks or the wrong oil (for RD03 only mineral oil-no synthetics)...
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:41 PM   #2829
atgreg
Africatwinarama
 
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Joined: Mar 2003
Location: Sydney Australia
Oddometer: 9,987
Ive had the"Honda Clutch rattle" in my AT for well over 100,000km

Ive heard lots of other honda's with the same thing, I dont think it's a big issue
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Old 12-11-2008, 08:44 AM   #2830
Ed Teach
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Somewhere in Spain
Oddometer: 163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy G
AFAIK it's the small springs in the clutch basket (not the clutch springs, the other ones) which work themselfes into the clutch-basket. Some guys from the german AT-Forum replaced them with stronger / longer ones. For that they had to drill open the rivets on the clutch basket. It worked for some 10.000km, then the rattling came back. When I had the basked from Hardheaders RD03 in my hands two weeks ago you could move these springs about 1mm, so I can imagine that they are the reason...

Sorry, just what I heared, no real own experience...

Cheers, Andy
There is a simple test to check that the springs are worn out.
It's as simple as engage a gear and drop the clutch very slow and gently at idle, when the clutch starts to drag it puts some force on the springs and the rattle disapears.
I think that better than replacing the springs is to replace the clutch basket but here in Spain it costs somethig like 400 euros, so my bike will continue rattling for some time
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Old 12-11-2008, 12:19 PM   #2831
locorider
Loco, pero no estúpido!
 
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Puerto Rico, U.S.A.
Oddometer: 2,422
How about checking in DE? Menos costoso, tal vez!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Teach
There is a simple test to check that the springs are worn out.
It's as simple as engage a gear and drop the clutch very slow and gently at idle, when the clutch starts to drag it puts some force on the springs and the rattle disapears.
I think that better than replacing the springs is to replace the clutch basket but here in Spain it costs somethig like 400 euros, so my bike will continue rattling for some time
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Carlos locorider
1989 Honda XL600V Transalp, slightly modified!

"If you don't follow your dreams, you might as well be a vegetable", Burt Munro, The World's Fastest Indian
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Old 12-11-2008, 01:11 PM   #2832
G-Funk
That ... Umm ..... "Dude"
 
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Pacific Northwest
Oddometer: 5,259
Thumb Schaweet .............

I scored the left fairing from the E-Bay Italy auction ......

Hopefully I get this one .......

G.
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Old 12-11-2008, 02:09 PM   #2833
Andy G
2wheeled alpinist
 
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: eastern Munich outback, Bavaria, Germany
Oddometer: 551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Teach
There is a simple test to check that the springs are worn out.
It's as simple as engage a gear and drop the clutch very slow and gently at idle, when the clutch starts to drag it puts some force on the springs and the rattle disapears.
I think that better than replacing the springs is to replace the clutch basket but here in Spain it costs somethig like 400 euros, so my bike will continue rattling for some time
I go with ATGreg, just get used to the rattling (my TA also rattles since I can remember...). Your clutchbasket will work for another 200.000km. Here is the thread about the rattling in the german AT forum. It got a lot of pics showing how to replace these torsion springs.
The price for a new basket in Germany is the same, and it's more or less certain that the rattling will reappear. The springs in the new basket will wear out again...
cmsnl.com is a cheap source for stock parts, but they take ages for shipping.

Cheers, Andy
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Old 12-11-2008, 03:59 PM   #2834
locorider
Loco, pero no estúpido!
 
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Puerto Rico, U.S.A.
Oddometer: 2,422
So, after all, is changing the springs to heavy duty ones the solution?

I've heard some noise, but it doesnt bother me, or probably I haven't reched that stage...
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Carlos locorider
1989 Honda XL600V Transalp, slightly modified!

"If you don't follow your dreams, you might as well be a vegetable", Burt Munro, The World's Fastest Indian
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Old 12-11-2008, 04:55 PM   #2835
Andy G
2wheeled alpinist
 
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: eastern Munich outback, Bavaria, Germany
Oddometer: 551
Quote:
Originally Posted by locorider
So, after all, is changing the springs to heavy duty ones the solution?

I've heard some noise, but it doesnt bother me, or probably I haven't reched that stage...
What they say in this thread is two things:
1. replacing the springs with stronger ones gets you rid of the rattling. Nobody knows yet how long these stronger ones will last
2. there's no real technical reason to fix this issue

\A.
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