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Old 08-25-2010, 11:30 AM   #7576
Jim Rowley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ze Viking
Batery connection a bit loose on AT and tiny bit of rust. I got rid of the rust and screwed it properly: 13.3V at iddle and 14.3 to 14.5V on throttle. Constant at last!
I think you fixed it.
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Old 08-25-2010, 01:01 PM   #7577
Ze Viking
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Nope...

Last time it wasn't screwed on properly, there was power or no power, not just nonsense readings.

This time, the batery is dying...
The maintenance charger keeps on trying charging the batery.
It says charged... for just a couple of seconds and starts charging again...

That must be why the started was a bit weaker...
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Old 08-25-2010, 06:17 PM   #7578
alainmax
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I'm saved or something might still be wrong (alternator or RR)? quote

With sporadic firing at the starter button, i would check the main electrical connector where your commodo wiring goes into. it is under stress when you fully steer ( one side or another) ( R ght side on the RD07)and the connection could be loose.
verify as the connector could melt and start a fire, or at least toast your harness !!
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:35 PM   #7579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alainmax
I'm saved or something might still be wrong (alternator or RR)? quote

With sporadic firing at the starter button, i would check the main electrical connector where your commodo wiring goes into. it is under stress when you fully steer ( one side or another) ( R ght side on the RD07)and the connection could be loose.
verify as the connector could melt and start a fire, or at least toast your harness !!
It's the first thing I wanted to check.
The connection isn't under stress because the wires are fixed to the handle bars at various points, they don't move at all at the connector level.

After I clear the voltage issue, I'll get that connector open though to check for rust or melting down...
I've had the same issue with the turning signals: a bit of WD40 and a couple of minutes touching the button fixed it for good!
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Old 08-26-2010, 12:20 AM   #7580
Jim Davis
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Sounds like another one needing the H4 Dual Relay Kit. The starter button kills the lights at startup so alot of current goes through the starter button then gets cut then back on ( at least on bikes that have the headlights always on). Eventually it burns out. Relays on the headlights solves this problem, the switch may have to be cleaned though.

So you had likely several problems. Battery going, bad battery connection, and possible starter button burning out.

On bikes with a headlight off/pilot/on switch, I believe the starter button doesn't come into the picture. In that case always start the bike with the headlights off.

You still need a Headlight Relay Kit though :-)
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Old 08-26-2010, 04:26 PM   #7581
Ladder106
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"Choke" spring mod

I may.....may....have solved the "choke" hang-up problem.

I took my cable apart and found a bunch of dirt and old grease in the cable splitter. Cleaned and lubed all cables and then found heavier springs to use in place of the Honda standard springs.

The photo is pretty self-explanatory. The springs have to be cut down since they are too long out of the bag. I tried other lengths but matching the Honda spring length worked best.

The thinner springs are the Honda parts.

So far, no problem with choke coming on and dropping the idle. I've only used this for 2 rides so far....so the report may be premature.

Disadvantage is that the springs over-ride the little detent ball in the actuating mechanism so you have to hold it open with your hand.

I think this will work for all models but am not certain about the RD07s.

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Old 08-26-2010, 10:18 PM   #7582
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Location: Taranna, Tasmania, Australia
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Wanted: import Honda africa twin to Australia

Can anyone tell me where I can get a Honda Africa Twin and how to import it to Australia?
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:21 PM   #7583
Joz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ze Viking
Batery connection a bit loose on AT and tiny bit of rust. I got rid of the rust and screwed it properly: 13.3V at iddle and 14.3 to 14.5V on throttle. Constant at last!
While it might be something more serious don't overlook the obvious. I had a battery cable come off on the middle of a green lane in North Wales, 2 up and just powering out of being cross rutted. Total electrical failure! NOT GOOD. Didn't take long to figure out what happened and re-tighten the battery screw but it sure got the attention of both me and my passenger! Make sure all your connections are good.
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Old 08-27-2010, 09:19 AM   #7584
E-Bum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
I may.....may....have solved the "choke" hang-up problem.

I took my cable apart and found a bunch of dirt and old grease in the cable splitter. Cleaned and lubed all cables and then found heavier springs to use in place of the Honda standard springs.

The photo is pretty self-explanatory. The springs have to be cut down since they are too long out of the bag. I tried other lengths but matching the Honda spring length worked best.

The thinner springs are the Honda parts.

So far, no problem with choke coming on and dropping the idle. I've only used this for 2 rides so far....so the report may be premature.

Disadvantage is that the springs over-ride the little detent ball in the actuating mechanism so you have to hold it open with your hand.

I think this will work for all models but am not certain about the RD07s.

I will have to try this. I've lost ~8 mpg since this whole choke thing started happening.
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Old 08-27-2010, 10:25 AM   #7585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
I may.....may....have solved the "choke" hang-up problem.


I think this will work for all models but am not certain about the RD07s.
Hello Ray..nice work. As an RD07A owner I've never really had a problem with my chokes and i use them all the time.
I know the UK ATwin owners are always having problems with them hanging up and that can be attributed to their corrosive enviroment. A good idea is to put them on a maintenance schedule where they are cleaned and lubricated...such as when the valves are adjusted.
It's good to know their are alternative fixes to this problem with the metal plungers and springs.
I seem to remember awhile back where someone on XRV.org.uk was also experimenting with new aftermarket springs.
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Old 08-27-2010, 12:38 PM   #7586
trophydave
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I recently stripped and cleaned the choke cables from end to end on my RD07A.The splitter had some old dried up grease in it.The choke plungers got a good clean and polish.I replaced the springs with some I found in a box at work.Someone had been in there before me as the two old springs were different.I reckon that I have gained about 5mpg since sorting the chokes
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Old 08-27-2010, 12:48 PM   #7587
*thomas*
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Hi,

For the people who were interested in the spare parts I had, here are some pictures:

























cheers !
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Old 08-27-2010, 05:16 PM   #7588
Ladder106
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"Choke" Mod updat

The "choke" modification (post #7582) with stronger springs seems to solve the problem for me.

Dunno if is was just the cleaning or better routing of the cable or the stronger springs or all-of-the-above. But it works now. Bike idles at 1200 and stays there for as long as I want. No "automatic" choke actuation and low/high idle speeds.

I though maybe at least E-Bum would want to know
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Old 08-27-2010, 05:39 PM   #7589
wrryder
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Thanks, it's good info Ray. Maybe it will motivate me to install those choke plunger thingies I got from Alan. I was surprised to find out that I was only getting 30 MPG but then again I was trying to keep up with Greg on the way back to Eugene...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
The "choke" modification (post #7582) with stronger springs seems to solve the problem for me.

Dunno if is was just the cleaning or better routing of the cable or the stronger springs or all-of-the-above. But it works now. Bike idles at 1200 and stays there for as long as I want. No "automatic" choke actuation and low/high idle speeds.

I though maybe at least E-Bum would want to know
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Old 08-28-2010, 12:35 AM   #7590
Antti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Rowley
So the 160mm is the measurement of the oil level from the top of the fork, correct? If so, I would go back to 106mm and 5W. Next I would try 7.5W. If 7.5W is not available, mix equal parts 5W and 10W. I feel 10W is a little too stiff for on-off road. Personal preference I guess.

Yep, 160mm is measurement from top of the fork.

However I made 4000 km trip to arctic sea with that setting, bike was heavily loaded. Worked fine (or fine enough).

Now it would be nice to put in some lighter oil.

I`ve been thinking about getting Ricors or going straight to upsidedown.
And theres been inspiring posts recently



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