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Old 04-10-2011, 08:47 AM   #9166
Jim Rowley
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Location: Black Forest, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atgreg View Post
Anyone put a 19" front an AT ??, does it give any benefits on the tar ??

Any thoughts ideas etc
I have a couple of friends with HP2s that have a set of 19 front/17 rear and they love them for road use and occasional dirt.

When I had an R1100GS, I had a road set and a dirt set of wheels but the road tires never got used. I guess I preferred the knobbies on all the time for the unexpected detour. (I wonder where that road goes)
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:05 AM   #9167
The Apostle
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As a major service I mean:
new tires
new exhaust (from the engine to the end)
new rear suspension
new front suspension
new lock-key (broken after steal attempt)
new wheel (a little twisted?? from the previous owner)
check the electrics
check the engine (i would like to open it)

I have done 25.000 km with no service, just checking oil and brakes.
I am the 3rd owner.

How much would all these cost??
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:33 AM   #9168
Jim Rowley
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Originally Posted by The Apostle View Post
I have done 25.000 km with no service, just checking oil and brakes.
How much would all these cost??
Wow, that engine oil has to be pretty thick by now. It's going to cost you more if you don't at least change the oil and filter every so often. That would have been the first thing to do when you bought it.
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:17 AM   #9169
The Apostle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Rowley View Post
Wow, that engine oil has to be pretty thick by now. It's going to cost you more if you don't at least change the oil and filter every so often. That would have been the first thing to do when you bought it.

I was refilling very regular because of a small leak
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:41 AM   #9170
Stormforce8
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: New Forest, England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Apostle View Post
As a major service I mean:
new tires
new exhaust (from the engine to the end)
new rear suspension
new front suspension
new lock-key (broken after steal attempt)
new wheel (a little twisted?? from the previous owner)
check the electrics
check the engine (i would like to open it)

I have done 25.000 km with no service, just checking oil and brakes.
I am the 3rd owner.

How much would all these cost??

How many km does your RD04 have?

new exhaust (from engine to end) - is yours beyond repair?
new front suspension - change the oil and seals
new rear suspension - put a new spring on your original shock
new lock key - secondhand from ebay
new rim - is this the front or rear wheel?
check the electrics - free if you have a multimeter and do it yourself
check the engine - I assume because of your oil leak?, where is the leak?

Can you post any pictures of your bike

Useful links you should take a look at:
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2000 Honda XRV750 Africa Twin RD07A - Rugged Roads Rallye Sport,
2002 Honda XRV750 Africa Twin RD07A - RWB
1989 Honda XRV750 Africa Twin RD04 - HRC
'Maybe I'm just simple - but can't we all just get along..........'
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:53 AM   #9171
The Apostle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormforce8 View Post
How many km does your RD04 have?

new exhaust (from engine to end) - is yours beyond repair? --- i think
new front suspension - change the oil and seals --- too soft springs
new rear suspension - put a new spring on your original shock --- ok
new lock key - secondhand from ebay --- ok
new rim - is this the front or rear wheel? --- sorry i mean the steering, the previous owner had a accident with the front
check the electrics - free if you have a multimeter and do it yourself---ok
check the engine - I assume because of your oil leak?, where is the leak?---from the rear cylinder and the "clutch??-where the cable goes in"

Can you post any pictures of your bike---i'll try

Useful links you should take a look at:
should i sell it for parts and get a new one?? same money less pain ???
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:01 AM   #9172
Stormforce8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Apostle View Post
should i sell it for parts and get a new one?? same money less pain ???
I have no idea, as i don't know what condition the bike is in.

If you're prepared to put the time & effort in then you could get your @ roadworthy for a lot less than getting a newer bike.

Refer to my questions in my post above - we need a bit more information to be able to point you in the right direction
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2000 Honda XRV750 Africa Twin RD07A - Rugged Roads Rallye Sport,
2002 Honda XRV750 Africa Twin RD07A - RWB
1989 Honda XRV750 Africa Twin RD04 - HRC
'Maybe I'm just simple - but can't we all just get along..........'
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:28 AM   #9173
Ladder106
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A carrot.....and a Kick in the Ass.




I can do ALL that....honest.

I'll even pay for the all the fluids AND return shipping.

Just send it to the USA.......really..........no, really.




OK

'Nuff tongue in cheek messing around.

Here's the thing.

Bikes are not like modern electronics. They CAN be repaired and refurbished. Usually for far less than a new bike. They should NOT be just chucked into the rubbish and replaced.

If your idea of "regular maintenance" is to top up the engine oil every few months because of a "small leak".....you don't deserve a new bike.

The AT is a pretty forgiving machine. If you take some time, replace a few parts, drain, flush and refill the oil and cooling systems, and keep up with basic maintenance, you'll have a reliable machine for the next decade. All these things can be done in the street or a parking garage with very basic tools. We can "walk you through" whatever task you want to undertake. A digital camera, a few basic mechanical skills (you seem to be able to at least recognize the exhaust system) and some time on ADV will get you through a lot of do-it-yourself maintenance and repair.

If you'd rather spend your meager "starving student" budget on girls (who doesn't) and beer, sell the bike to someone who wants it and buy an electric scooter.


So................

Have I burnt all my bridges

I guess I shouldn't be waiting for a call about a shipping container with my name on it.


There it is......as they say

Ladder106 screwed with this post 04-10-2011 at 12:42 PM
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:51 AM   #9174
The Apostle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post



I can do ALL that....honest.

I'll even pay for the all the fluids AND return shipping.

Just send it to the USA.......really..........no, really.




OK

'Nuff tongue in cheek messing around.

Here's the thing.

Bikes are not like modern electronics. They CAN be repaired and refurbished. Usually for far less than a new bike. They should NOT be just chucked into the rubbish and replaced.

If your idea of "regular maintenance" is to top up the engine oil every few months because of a "small leak".....you don't deserve a new bike.

The AT is a pretty forgiving machine. If you take some time, replace a few parts, drain, flush and refill the oil and cooling systems, and keep up with basic maintenance, you'll have a reliable machine for the next decade. All these things can be done in the street or a parking garage with very basic tools. We can "walk you through" whatever task you want to undertake. A digital camera, a few basic mechanical skills (you seem to be able to at least recognize the exhaust system) and some time on ADV will get you through a lot of do-it-yourself maintenance and repair.

If you'd rather spend your meager "starving student" budget on girls (who doesn't) and beer, sell the bike to someone who wants it and but an electric scooter.


So................

Have I burnt all my bridges

I guess I shouldn't be waiting for a call about a shipping container with my name on it.


There it is......as they say

Well I will store it then... do you have any space there ???
My apartment is pretty small.
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:10 PM   #9175
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If anyone wants parts or even a bike from Greece tell me to have a look if I can help.
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:16 PM   #9176
raoulserban
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i can't find a diy tutorial on how to change the brake fluid ! i need to adjust the front steel brake hoses and this involves draining the break fluid and after that filling a new one! how can i do this? i did something similar to my former bmw but there was just one brake caliper not two!
the reason that bothers me:

thank you in advanced
ps: please correct my english if i am wrong!
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:35 PM   #9177
Dirtdigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raoulserban View Post
i can't find a diy tutorial on how to change the brake fluid ! i need to adjust the front steel brake hoses and this involves draining the break fluid and after that filling a new one! how can i do this? i did something similar to my former bmw but there was just one brake caliper not two!
the reason that bothers me:

thank you in advanced
ps: please correct my english if i am wrong!
Here is link to How-To on bleeding a car brakes. Basically its all the same for the bike. With two caliper you need to bleed the one with the longer brakeline first.
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:39 PM   #9178
Ladder106
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Raoulserban,

If all you want to accomplish is to rotate the fitting (banjo bolt) around on the nut to give you a new angle with the brake line.....you can do this without draining and bleeding the entire system.

Get a few large absobent rags and a bottle of new brake fluid.

Turn the bars so that the master cylinder tank is level.

Put rags around the nut.

Then while putting slight pressure on the brake lever, loosen the nut just enough so the banjo bolt will rotate. Do NOT let up on the lever...just ONE gentle squeeze.

Brake fluid should slightly ooze through the fitting. You WANT this to happen because what you do NOT want is air to flow back into the tank or lines.

Rotate the fitting to the position you want.

Re-tighten the fitting.

Let go of the brake lever.

Then remove the top of the master cylinder tank and refill any fluid that was lost in the process.


Warning....brake fluid eats paint and stickers....cover the pretty bits with rags.
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:47 PM   #9179
raoulserban
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the same idea went trough my mind a couple of minutes ago but the top end of the brake lines have a slightly curve, and the top end are positioned with that curve to the exterior and i want it in the interior! in my opinion this is the way it should be because the line is not tensioned in any way when the wheel is turned to the max !
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:59 PM   #9180
Ladder106
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Mine was like that too (with the curve).

Be certain that's what you want. When I set mine up (dry) moving the curve interior looked like the best way.

What I found out later was that this made the line cross the speedo and tach and actually catch on these instruments when the front wheel was at full extension.

The line will move up and down with the front forks so make certain there is nothing in the way.
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