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Old 07-21-2011, 10:57 PM   #9841
Jim Davis
Owner, Eastern Beaver Co
 
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Mt. Fuji, Japan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie_Rider View Post
I took my RD07A out for a spin today. I noticed that it was a tad slower on the starter but had no problem starting it. Then I rode for about 45minutes, with lights on etc. and then as I was standing still on idle it died. It would not even click a little when I tried to start it again.

Got it going by pushing it down the road, but then about 10-15minutes later it feels exactly the same as it does when you're out of gas, and it finally stops.

The battery is good, so could this be a rectifier/regulator problem? I have yet to measure the voltage on idle (recharging the battery right now)

If the regulator is the culprit, where do I buy a new, upgraded one which will plug right in? I am fine with an adapter cable like the ones that can be found on eastern beaver but I will NOT splice into the wire loom.

I still think this is very strange because the bike has only done 8700km or 5400 miles and I live in Sweden so it's not THAT hot here during the summer.

I need help fast, I just sold my car and the bike is my only means of transport right now.
Check your 30A fuse. It may be blown or corroded. It is rare for any R/R to just go bad without the signs of burnt connectors, especially with such low miles on the bike. If you're seeing Voltage lower than battery Voltage with the bike running, your battery is not getting charged at all.

In short, installing a replacement R/R might not solve the real problem. I urge you to investigate further before throwing money at it. Check the simple stuff first! You might simply have a loose battery connection. Clean and tighten the battery bolts. Do not overtighten but get them quite snug.
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Old 07-22-2011, 12:59 PM   #9842
Rookie_Rider
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Hi Jim,

I am seeing voltage lower than battery voltage when the bike is running, so no, no charge.
The 30A fuse is fine, looks new, no corrosion. The battery connections are tight, no corrosion.

I got a replacement R/R today, changing it out tomorrow. I agree that it does sound strange considering condition of the bike and mileage.

I'll post back when I have mounted the R/R
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:55 PM   #9843
@dreamer
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Location: Pattaya, Thailand
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Rookie_Rider, your in good hands with Jim he has helped me on more than a few occasions and hopefully in the future as well.

Jim I'm getting to the stage where I almost have a rolling chassis and I'm then starting in on the electrical/wiring harness so I too will need your expertise soon if that's OK.

Everyone who had input on my fork questions, thank you for the help.

Question for the masses, I'm having great fun with the Dremil tool cleaning parts I have to admit, for example cleaning up the thermostat housing or dirty hose clamps, anyway what is the treatment for the fork legs? Too big for the Dremil tool and I'm not sure that I can find a soft enough wire brush for my 3" hand held right angle grinder. Anyone.

Thanks everyone for all of the help on this project.
Keith
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Old 07-23-2011, 12:46 AM   #9844
Rookie_Rider
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Ok, so Jim was right :(

I changed the R/R just now, still no charge going to the battery.

I have checked the fuse box on the right side of the bike and the 30A fuse that is on the large positive side cable going from the battery (under the red cap in the pictures)

There is NO corrosion what so ever on any connectors.

I really need help on this one, I have attached a few pictures so maybe someone can either spot the problem or use them to describe what I should check next. The battery is fine, so that is not the issue either. I have tried two batteries just to be 110% sure it's not that.

Could it be the alternator? Or is it called something else on a bike?





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Old 07-23-2011, 10:54 AM   #9845
GSPD750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie_Rider View Post
Ok, so Jim was right :(

I changed the R/R just now, still no charge going to the battery.

I have checked the fuse box on the right side of the bike and the 30A fuse that is on the large positive side cable going from the battery (under the red cap in the pictures)

There is NO corrosion what so ever on any connectors.

I really need help on this one, I have attached a few pictures so maybe someone can either spot the problem or use them to describe what I should check next. The battery is fine, so that is not the issue either. I have tried two batteries just to be 110% sure it's not that.

Could it be the alternator? Or is it called something else on a bike?
You may want to do some resistance checks on the wiring.
See page 9-30 (alternator) and 9-33 (R/R) of the Haynes or go to the following flow chart.
Original Link outside source

It's possible the used rectifier you installed is not good either. Is the number on the R/R SH538D-13?
What voltages did you see with the used R/R...exactly as in the video posted earlier? Tell us what you saw for voltages including stand alone voltage with no key on.
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:55 AM   #9846
Rookie_Rider
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Ok so I used the link you posted GSPD750
The voltage with bike off, 13.05V
Voltage with bike on, no lights turned on: 12.8-12.6V

I then went on according to the guide, and between the red/white cables from R/R and battery (+) it is less than 0.2V
but between green on R/R and battery (-) it's 0.35V

I could not find anything wrong with the connection between R/R and battery (-), it's the same 0.1Ohm as between battery (+) and the red/white cables from R/R

I then measured Ohm between the yellow wires from the stator, they all read 0.5Ohm

I then proceeded to measure AC Voltage between the three yellow cables from the stator at 5000rpm and found that it was 68V, 68V and 26V so I guess the stator is busted?

Would you come to the same conclusion?
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:24 PM   #9847
Twinmike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie_Rider View Post
I then measured Ohm between the yellow wires from the stator, they all read 0.5Ohm

I then proceeded to measure AC Voltage between the three yellow cables from the stator at 5000rpm and found that it was 68V, 68V and 26V so I guess the stator is busted?

Would you come to the same conclusion?
Make a measure (no running engine)between the three yellow wires and minus you should get no circuit, when yes the stator is defectiv.

Did you measure the regulator diode? You should have ca. 0,5V between r/w and yellow 1 2 3 and the same between green and yellow 1 2 3, when you change the multimeter wires same measure no circuit.
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:41 PM   #9848
ray3656
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Location: Alford Aberdeenshire Scotland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie_Rider View Post
Ok so I used the link you posted GSPD750
The voltage with bike off, 13.05V
Voltage with bike on, no lights turned on: 12.8-12.6V

I then went on according to the guide, and between the red/white cables from R/R and battery (+) it is less than 0.2V
but between green on R/R and battery (-) it's 0.35V

I could not find anything wrong with the connection between R/R and battery (-), it's the same 0.1Ohm as between battery (+) and the red/white cables from R/R

I then measured Ohm between the yellow wires from the stator, they all read 0.5Ohm

I then proceeded to measure AC Voltage between the three yellow cables from the stator at 5000rpm and found that it was 68V, 68V and 26V so I guess the stator is busted?

Would you come to the same conclusion?
yup stator winding down
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Old 07-24-2011, 02:43 PM   #9849
GSPD750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie_Rider View Post

Voltage with bike on, no lights turned on: 12.8-12.6V



?
When you say 'bike on'...Do you mean engine running or only key on?

What is the voltage across the battery with the engine running...no lights?

If wiring all checks out ok...and your getting less than 14 vdc with engine running...give or take...then it's possible both those R/R's are bad. Order a new one.
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1996 XL 600v Transalp
"Almost no other bike has the road presence of the Africa Twin and cars seem to melt out of its way, once they see the angry glare of its lights in their mirrors." ...
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Old 07-24-2011, 03:54 PM   #9850
Squily
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Esperance WA
Oddometer: 1,161
progress report: 1st test ride

Spent some productive time in the shed this weekend. Managed to get the AT running again. After rebuilding the suspensions, brakes, and other bits, the only way to know if she's straight is to ride it. Quick test ride


Forks in, handle bars back on, all essential electric thingies and cable connected...



Baarrp... Sorry neighbours




Nothing fell off? Maybe one more time?




Ok then, back in the shed . 1st time she's been standing "on her own steam" in 6 months .

Now all that's left is the lights, clocks, dash, crashbars, paint, ohhh brother... not going riding this weekend then
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:38 PM   #9851
Rookie_Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSPD750 View Post
When you say 'bike on'...Do you mean engine running or only key on?

What is the voltage across the battery with the engine running...no lights?

If wiring all checks out ok...and your getting less than 14 vdc with engine running...give or take...then it's possible both those R/R's are bad. Order a new one.

Bike on = engine on

According to the troubleshooting guide you linked to it is not the R/R but the stator since it is not making the right amount of AC voltage from all three coils (only two coils show correct voltage at 5000rpm) Shouldn't that me a definite sign of a broken stator?
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:30 AM   #9852
CLANTECH
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Stator broken

if the three cables don't bring the same voltage against eachother then the stator is broken. You'll need to replace it. Hope u measured right at the connector before the regulator.

Greets

CA
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:50 AM   #9853
Rookie_Rider
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Yes I disconnected the connector with the three yellow wires from the R/R and measured between all three cables. I don't really know how the stator and R/R works, but in my mind the R/R converts AC to DC and also changes the voltage to 14,7V?

If I get these readings from the stator at 5000rpm:
L1 - L2 = 68V
L1 - L3 = 68V
L2 - L3 = 26V

Wouldn't that be enough for the R/R to convert to 14,7V DC or does it "shut off" if the three inputs aren't the same voltage?
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Old 07-25-2011, 02:36 AM   #9854
Africa_Twin
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Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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Hi Rookie Rider, what year is your bike?
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:43 AM   #9855
Rookie_Rider
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My bike is a 2002 model. RD07A
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