The Africa Twin thread

[ericGSsti]

Originally Posted by @dreamer

Hi everyone, hope that everyone is doing good. Have a question about the throttle cables, I have new cables that are routed as strait as they can be so I feel these two issues aren't going to be my problem and I have the original spring on the carbs so I am wondering if anyone has gone to only one throttle cable in order to minimize drag so that you get more of a snap on the throttle return. When I ride I always have my hand on the throttle and in modulating the speed I'm always pushing and pulling the throttle but when its on the side stand and you give it some gas it doesn't always go back and sometimes it slowly goes back. Hope this make since, also I have looked in the throttle housing and the cables are routed correctly.

Stormforce, how is that old rusty AT that you found coming along?

Had the same problem, lubricated the cable and throttle (white bit under the hand grip) and changed the grips and it sorted it.

[GSPD750]

Originally Posted by @dreamer

Hi everyone, hope that everyone is doing good. Have a question about the throttle cables, I have new cables that are routed as strait as they can be so I feel these two issues aren't going to be my problem and I have the original spring on the carbs so I am wondering if anyone has gone to only one throttle cable in order to minimize drag so that you get more of a snap on the throttle return. When I ride I always have my hand on the throttle and in modulating the speed I'm always pushing and pulling the throttle but when its on the side stand and you give it some gas it doesn't always go back and sometimes it slowly goes back. Hope this make since, also I have looked in the throttle housing and the cables are routed correctly.

Stormforce, how is that old rusty AT that you found coming along?

Happiness is a throttle that snaps back to idle...i hear ya. A properly rigged and routed throttle cable should do that providing their is no damage in the circuit. Is the cable guide (#17) installed correctly or is it worn? Order a new one if it's effed.
Properly installed that white plastic thingy does not really require lube as already suggested as that will only attract dust and dirt and make it worse in the end. Only the cable ends need a touch of lube.
Are the 2 throttle housing halves lined up to the punch marks on the OEM handlebars. If not OEM bars then rotate as req'd until their is no friction and cables are at their slackest and not tight and stretched. Order a new tube and grip from Honda (#12) if worn.

Patience and persistance...keep fiddleing in the grip area and you will solve it. Obviously with those cables disconnected it sounds like you have already eliminated the cable run/conduits/spring.

[farcall]

Originally Posted by GSPD750

Timely post of that pic GSPD...

Noob question - what are the short wires (with terminals) coming out of each switchblock for? Immediately left of the number 10 and above/right 42 in the pic.

[atgreg]

Originally Posted by farcall

Timely post of that pic GSPD...

Noob question - what are the short wires (with terminals) coming out of each switchblock for? Immediately left of the number 10 and above/right 42 in the pic.

front brake light switch and clutch lockout switch

[farcall]

Originally Posted by atgreg

front brake light switch and clutch lockout switch

Cheers.

The leads (not switches) are not plugged into anything... and the clutch lock out and brake light are both working.

Are we talking bout the same thing?

Screwdriver points to the switch. Unplugged leads dangling nearby.

[Africa_Twin]

Originally Posted by GSPD750

Properly installed that white plastic thingy does not really require lube as already suggested as that will only attract dust and dirt and make it worse in the end.

Well, there is a lubrification hole on the bottom of the throttle guide housing (part#16) which is covered by the rubber boot (part#2)... a squirt of WD40 every now and then has never made any harm to mine... and after recently disassembling it for throttle grip replacement, I haven´t found any dust or dirt in there... after 4 years of owning this bike and 45k kms later. Just make sure the boot covers the lubrication hole.

In fact, I've cured many a sticking throttle simply by squirting a bit of WD40 into this hole and/or by correcting the cables' routing to the carbs and/or by pulling the throttle handle weight a bit outwards so that the handle weight does not rub against the tip of the throttle grip rubber... as a joke, we call this weight a "poor man's cruise control" because if you tap the weight inwards enough with the palm of your hand, you can make the throttle stick into any given position... I wouldn't recommend doing this while on the move, though... you may lose control of the bike. If you want to try it, do it with the bike stopped and make sure you use it only for cruising on longer trips... like you would with a "normal" cruise control. When done, pull the weight out again, so as to release the throttle grip...

[Africa_Twin]

Originally Posted by farcall

Cheers.

The leads (not switches) are not plugged into anything... and the clutch lock out and brake light are both working.

Are we talking bout the same thing?

Screwdriver points to the switch. Unplugged leads dangling nearby.

Here:


EDIT: you sure the clutch works as intended with the clutch switch leads disconnected?

[farcall]

Originally Posted by Africa_Twin

Here:


EDIT: you sure the clutch works as intended with the clutch switch leads disconnected?

Ummm... I think I now know what's happened.

The switches worked when I first got the bike and checked it over. I never noticed, one way or the other, whether those leads were dangling or not. Straight after that the stripping project started. My mate gave me a hand day 1. He was working at the front end. I'm guessing he unplugged them when stripping the electrics on the front end and me, the unobservant one, missed the change.

Thanks fellas.

I knew it was a silly noob question.

[GSPD750]

Originally Posted by Africa_Twin

Well, there is a lubrification hole on the bottom of the throttle guide housing (part#16) which is covered by the rubber boot (part#2)... a squirt of WD40 every now and then has never made any harm to mine... and after recently disassembling it for throttle grip replacement, I haven´t found any dust or dirt in there... after 4 years of owning this bike and 45k kms later. Just make sure the boot covers the lubrication hole.

In fact, I've cured many a sticking throttle simply by squirting a bit of WD40 into this hole and/or by correcting the cables' routing to the carbs and/or by pulling the throttle handle weight a bit outwards so that the handle weight does not rub against the tip of the throttle grip rubber... as a joke, we call this weight a "poor man's cruise control" because if you tap the weight inwards enough with the palm of your hand, you can make the throttle stick into any given position... I wouldn't recommend doing this while on the move, though... you may lose control of the bike. If you want to try it, do it with the bike stopped and make sure you use it only for cruising on longer trips... like you would with a "normal" cruise control. When done, pull the weight out again, so as to release the throttle grip...

I doubt Mr Honda put that hole there as a lubrication point but if it works for you then use it as one...it's purpose is more likely a water drain. Like I mentioned earlier the recommended lubrication points are at the cable ends and thats where I apply mine using a multi purpose grease. If it's wet IMO then it will only attract dust and dirt which can lead to grit and and abrasive.

[ninety]

Suspension upgrade completed and very happy with the result!

front: RuggedRoads steering stem for WP usd with Reiger suspension = 4cm lift
rear: Technoflex suspension and 18" rim





chears,
Simon

[tserts]

Originally Posted by ninety

Suspension upgrade completed and very happy with the result!
Simon

That looks yummy...

How much did the whole shenanigan cost?

If I had that suspension, ABS and a 6th gear I would never think of changing that bike..

[ninety]

I don't keep track off the costs, that would spoil the fun! But it was a hard dissision to sacrifice my other, older AT for this.

[Faceplant]

Just had to remove and strip my RD04 engine due to excessive bearing noises. I have priced replacement OEM parts which seem a bit expensive. Also I have an issue with importing bits, I live in Tanzania, and I saw somewhere, either on this forum or on XRV's that there are options for replacement big-ends and mains bearings, cam-chains etc. Have searched both sites fruitlessly, Does some kind sole have the link to the list of options please? I would like to source as much locally as possible naturally.

Many thanks in advance

[gpmucci]

My Nxr project:

19 lt rear, 42 front

[Stormforce8]

Originally Posted by gpmucci

My Nxr project:

19 lt rear, 42 front

Are you going to make an NXR exhaust system:to go on it ..........