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Old 06-28-2013, 08:09 AM   #12451
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Splash View Post
All: Thank you for your replies regarding the RD04 emissions plate. SD Splash
So you got an RD04 and you are selling that NICE Transalp. Can't wait to see what you do with the AT.
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:11 AM   #12452
aikidimi
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Originally Posted by viducce View Post
Hi there, what screen is that?
I'm looking for a taller one for my 7a but can't decide....

Cheers, Chris
Hei Chris.
This is a Powerbronze screen.
To my oponion by far the best screen for the RD07A

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Old 06-29-2013, 01:37 PM   #12453
iswoolley OP
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Wicked Evolution

After a decade of ownership, I've noticed that my bike has 'evolved' a little since new...



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Old 07-02-2013, 06:20 AM   #12454
tserts
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Sup folks, I think my problems aren't over, I have had the new R/R on for about 3 weeks (Japanese aftermarket SUN), I even went on a daily trip 2up and had the bike at 160kph for hours and everything seemed to go swell. The voltage readings were OK and all, but last Friday on my way to my country house, about 10mins into the ride it started sputtering, having no power at first, then I believe I was going with one cylinder (I still had rpm readings on the clock but 4k sounded a lot like 2k and I remember my TA when it had a similar problem it felt the same), and then it died within 2 kms from the first hiccup. I have verified it is temperature related, if the bike sits until cold, then it's good to ride for about 10-15mins before it all starts again. It is electrical (99% sure) and the CDI is my main suspect but I don't know if the symptoms allow for more suspects.

I have a facet pump and a newish fuel filter, just stating it although the feel of the problem does not seem fuel related, I wonder if the facet could produce those symptoms or it can be safely written off the list.

Furthermore, I am a bit concerned that it might be related to the previous R/R problem but I cannot know for sure.

Can anyone think of any other reason the bike would crap-out after 10 mins running? I was not pushing it, just normal use.

Thanks for any help!
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:51 AM   #12455
E-Bum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tserts View Post
Sup folks, I think my problems aren't over, I have had the new R/R on for about 3 weeks (Japanese aftermarket SUN), I even went on a daily trip 2up and had the bike at 160kph for hours and everything seemed to go swell. The voltage readings were OK and all, but last Friday on my way to my country house, about 10mins into the ride it started sputtering, having no power at first, then I believe I was going with one cylinder (I still had rpm readings on the clock but 4k sounded a lot like 2k and I remember my TA when it had a similar problem it felt the same), and then it died within 2 kms from the first hiccup. I have verified it is temperature related, if the bike sits until cold, then it's good to ride for about 10-15mins before it all starts again. It is electrical (99% sure) and the CDI is my main suspect but I don't know if the symptoms allow for more suspects.

I have a facet pump and a newish fuel filter, just stating it although the feel of the problem does not seem fuel related, I wonder if the facet could produce those symptoms or it can be safely written off the list.

Furthermore, I am a bit concerned that it might be related to the previous R/R problem but I cannot know for sure.

Can anyone think of any other reason the bike would crap-out after 10 mins running? I was not pushing it, just normal use.

Thanks for any help!
My brother had those same symptoms on his TA. It was the CDI. Fortunately this was easy to diagnose as we had a spare CDI to test with. Additionally the RD03's and TA's use two separated CDI units, so we could test each individually... I think RD04's onward use the 'single' CDI (which I believe are two CDI's merged into one housing... someone correct me if I'm wrong).

I remember there was a discussion about opening up the CDI unit and inspecting the solder points. I am not sure how applicable this is to a '00 RD07, but on TA's it's been documented that the solder joints inside the CDI's fail rather commonly. check out this link: http://www.ta-deti.de/ta/knownproblems.html Obviously only do this if you're pretty sure it's the CDI unit. I'd order a backup in any case.

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Old 07-02-2013, 07:17 AM   #12456
tserts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Bum View Post
Obviously only do this if you're pretty sure it's the CDI unit. I'd order a backup in any case.
Thanks for the reply, you know that feeling when you reach a place and it seems familiar? I got the same feeling when I saw the link you posted! I had read that page in the past, possibly when the TA was acting up...

Do you think the new R/R could have taken out the CDI? Or was the old one that set off the eventual failure?

There's nothing worse that electrical puzzles, and I had decided to stick to the @ to get that piece of mind of pushing the button and not worrying that the bike might not start...



EDIT: I thought about that as well, but I cannot feel any real heat being emitted from the CDI when the problem is manifesting. The R/R on the other hot is too hot to touch.
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:05 AM   #12457
Ladder106
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If you are completely sure that the problem is temperature related, I'd expect the problem to be the ignition triggering unit. Some ATs have these located inside the right engine case toward the front around the crankshaft. But I think the later models have them relocated outside the engine on the left......I'd have to check the parts diagrams.

Some Goldwings and a few other Hondas have had similar heat related problems with units located inside the engine case. The sending unit quits when hot (it's down in there with the engine oil) and then restarts if the bike it allowed to cool.

I'm not certain if your bike has one sending unit or two. If only one, the problem is obviously not there since you have ignition in one cylinder.

The other common fault area is the CDI. This fault can be rather random and can APPEAR to be heat related.

To test, let the bike idle or ride close to home until one cylinder drops out, then if you can keep the bike running, tap on the CDI box with a screwdriver handle. If that doesn't start up the other cylinder, try jiggling the wiring at the plug where it enters the CDI box.

The CDI fault lies with the solder joints inside on the circuit board. Commonly, the joints from the plug develop small micro-cracks that open and close the circuit at random times.

This should have nothing to do with engine temperature
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:18 AM   #12458
tserts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post

To test, let the bike idle or ride close to home until one cylinder drops out, then if you can keep the bike running, tap on the CDI box with a screwdriver handle. If that doesn't start up the other cylinder, try jiggling the wiring at the plug where it enters the CDI box.
Tried that on Friday and thought that it fixed it (actually I had stopped long enough to restore operation). Since Monday though I have successfully replicated the problem with small rides around and I haven't been able to revert to normal operation by jiggling, hitting, cursing at the CDI. Miraculously after X amount of time the bike is ready to go, but will present the same symptoms after some riding (shorter time if it hasn't cooled off completely).

So you are saying ignition triggering unit, is there a way to test for that?
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:22 AM   #12459
E-Bum
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I'm no expert, so I'm relying on my more knowledgeable AT buddies in this thread to correct me but I would expect an R/R problem to give you voltage spikes and/or drops. If you have a voltage indicator, is it giving you high or low readings? If you don't have one, you could test the voltage at the output leads of the R/R under different circumstances (idle, 3k rpm, 6k rpm) and make sure that it's not surging (or undercharging). While you're there, you can do a quick check on the input leads (to test for obvious alternator problems) and make sure the 3 phase voltage rises with increasing rpm. But your new R/R shouldn't be the cause of a CDI failure. If anything, your old R/R had time to wreck havok on your CDI before it bit the dust.

It's worth mentioning that you should check to see if your spark plug itself hasn't gone bad. Start at the source, then work your way back.
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:26 AM   #12460
tserts
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Is this the thingy?

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Old 07-02-2013, 08:29 AM   #12461
tserts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Bum View Post
I'm no expert, so I'm relying on my more knowledgeable AT buddies in this thread to correct me but I would expect an R/R problem to give you voltage spikes and/or drops. If you have a voltage indicator, is it giving you high or low readings? If you don't have one, you could test the voltage at the output leads of the R/R under different circumstances (idle, 3k rpm, 6k rpm) and make sure that it's not surging (or undercharging). While you're there, you can do a quick check on the input leads (to test for obvious alternator problems) and make sure the 3 phase voltage rises with increasing rpm. But your new R/R shouldn't be the cause of a CDI failure. If anything, your old R/R had time to wreck havok on your CDI before it bit the dust.

It's worth mentioning that you should check to see if your spark plug itself hasn't gone bad. Start at the source, then work your way back.
I have a voltage monitor and the readings are fine.

I also have spare spark plugs, could they cause similar symptoms? If yes I can screw on an older set and see...
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:46 AM   #12462
E-Bum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tserts View Post
I have a voltage monitor and the readings are fine.

I also have spare spark plugs, could they cause similar symptoms? If yes I can screw on an older set and see...
If it seems to run fine for a while then all of a sudden start failing, it doesn't seem as though a faulty plug would cause that. But I just mentioned it because it's a relatively simple check before diving into the engine or spending money. Same with checking the battery.


However, my money's still on the CDI, and it looks like Ray's thingy (I believe that the technical term) is now a good candidate considering the correlation with temperature...
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:15 AM   #12463
viducce
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Newly purchased RD07a in Taiwan

Hi Friends,

came home today with my newly purchased Africa Twin.
Of course I had to take a closer look and here are some things that I
like to show....

First, the bike. It's a 2000 RD07a with around 24000km



It seems to loose oil around the oil filter...





and the linkage may need some attention...



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Old 07-02-2013, 09:57 AM   #12464
Ladder106
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The odds against a random (on/off) spark plug failure is a really rare event.....the odds of this happening with two plugs at the same time would be way out on the thin end of the wedge.

I believe that box area in the photo is where the ignition sending units are located on the newest ATs. Not being familiar with that engine since I've never owned one I'm just making an wild-ass-guess.

If that is indeed where they are located, why not try hitting that area with a garden hose once the bike quits to see if you can bring the spark back earlier with more agressive cooling. If that works, then it's a good bet your problem lies there.

Without an AT service manual, I've no idea if a meter can be applied to these circuits to do a fault assessment or not.....if it can you'll want to see if there's a difference between hot and colt. Do the test cold, then hit the unit with a heat gun and see if you can make the readings change.
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:43 AM   #12465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Without an AT service manual, I've no idea if a meter can be applied to these circuits to do a fault assessment or not.....if it can you'll want to see if there's a difference between hot and colt. Do the test cold, then hit the unit with a heat gun and see if you can make the readings change.
Very good guess here.
Although the troubleshooting process on the official shop manual for the 96-... RD07A does not mention a heat-related problem, I think you may be on the right track.
So, I include some pages off that shop manual as a help guide. There is a voltage measurement that can be done to the ignition pulse generator, but it requires a special tool or a special multimeter.
Also included is the removal/instalation procedure.
Hope this helps



http://imgur.com/a/0I3Fy
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