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Old 03-17-2010, 04:14 PM   #1
modette OP
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I got the Tubliss System :-)

I just got the front wheel done, waiting to see if the bubbles stop after the recommended 10 minutes. I do need to get a bicycle pump...my compressor will only take it to 96psi and I need 110psi.

I picked up a front 21" and a rear 18" at BRP today in Colorado Springs. I mentioned how someone here said they do ADVRider better then the $99.99 price and he took 10% off each one. I rather buy from a local place where I can see the product and get it right there and then. I also got a Scotts billet rear disc guard / caliper mount from them.



I used a sponge sander to smooth the edge of the rim and to clean the gunk out of the middle.


After I had mounted the Tubliss onto the rim, which was very easy to do. Sorry I did not get a picture of drilling the 11mm and 8mm holes. By this I mean I re-drilled one stock hole, and added an 8mm (5/16") hole. In the picture you can see a Tubliss sticker on the rim, that was were the Honda over-sized hole was located. The 8mm is to the left of the rim lock 4 spokes spaces down.


Close-up of the bedlock area:


The whole process was not that bad at all, and I got the rim into the tire with a little work but only took me 10-15 minutes to do. Well of I go to buy that bicycle pump.
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modette screwed with this post 03-17-2010 at 05:12 PM
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Old 03-17-2010, 04:43 PM   #2
enduro-ince
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Got a question or 3. You fill the tire through the bedlock valve? And drill a new hole for the tubliss valve? Whats the other new hole for? Do you fill the tubliss after both sides of the tire are on or as soon as its on the rim?

Gracias.
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Old 03-17-2010, 05:09 PM   #3
modette OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enduro-ince
Got a question or 3. You fill the tire through the bedlock valve? And drill a new hole for the tubliss valve? Whats the other new hole for? Do you fill the tubliss after both sides of the tire are on or as soon as its on the rim?

Gracias.
The instructions said NOT to use the oversized Honda hole. So I drilled out the OEM valve stem hole to 7/16" and drilled a new 5/16" hole 4 spokes down. It tells you to use one of their stickers on the inside to seal the old Honda big hole up, plus you use two wraps of the tape they give you. It also recommends to put one of their stickers over the outside of that large hole so mud does not get in there. So I only added one hole, and covered the other.

You fill the small Tubliss tube after you get the tire together.

Wal-mart sells a bike pump for $19.99, it claims to go to 200psi...they had another one it was $16.99 and it claimed to go to 120psi...I figured I get the one that claimed 200psi. I also pickup some SLIME, might use it...might not...I have not decided.

It was holding air so I filled the inner tube to 106psi...as it just says 100-110psi...they probably know your not going to get it right on the 110psi dot. I then lowered the tire pressure to 16psi.

Now all I got to do is oder a new rear tire, and install.

Anymore questions feel free to hit me up.
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Old 03-17-2010, 05:12 PM   #4
ganshert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enduro-ince
Got a question or 3. You fill the tire through the bedlock valve? And drill a new hole for the tubliss valve? Whats the other new hole for? Do you fill the tubliss after both sides of the tire are on or as soon as its on the rim?

Gracias.
while he's out buying his pump...

yes, tire fills through beadlock and tube fills through the valve stem

you don't need to drill any new holes if you have a beadlock on your current rim, however you may have to make one or both holes larger (edit, didn't know the part about Honda holes being too big, mine are on a KTM and a Husaberg)

You need a hole for the tube and a hole for the beadlock

you don't add any air until the tire is fully on the rim

then you add 110psi to the tube and at least 5psi to the tire

I've been running them since last spring and have had zero issues. I carry a tire plug kit, small bicycle pump, and I've just ordered a tiny shock pump that goes to 300 or so psi so I can add to the tube when out in the boonies.

here's the pump I ordered, I hope it can handle the volume of the tube without taking forever

http://www.amazon.com/Lezyne-Shock-Drive-Pump-Guage/dp/B002WXZ58K

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Old 03-17-2010, 05:19 PM   #5
modette OP
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^^^ Do you run SLIME???

Does that work well for above 45mph? I noticed the bottle said should be used as an emergency if above 45mph as the tire might become unbalanced.

Their video is pretty good. One thing was the printed instructions that came with mine said drill a 10mm hole...I then watched the video again and it says 11mm hole...so I called them and they said yeah it is suppose to be a 11mm hole (7/16" and a 8mm holes (5/16").

http://www.nuetech.com/video.shtml

The PDF instructions are good and easy to follow...
http://www.nuetech.com/Instructions.pdf
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Old 03-17-2010, 05:25 PM   #6
ganshert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modette
^^^ Do you run SLIME???
no

Because if I do get a puncture I can plug it. If it isn't something that could be plugged (rip or long slash) slime isn't going to work anyway. Plus the way the tubliss works the bead will stay seated even if the tire is flat so worst case scenario I ride it out flat and not damage my rim.

Slime just seems to make a huge mess. I've heard there are other brands out there that are better but don't see the need.

I don't ride asphalt but to connect trails or get out of town if that matters and I run 10-16psi depending on terrain, etc...
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Old 03-17-2010, 05:36 PM   #7
modette OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ganshert
no

Because if I do get a puncture I can plug it. If it isn't something that could be plugged (rip or long slash) slime isn't going to work anyway. Plus the way the tubliss works the bead will stay seated even if the tire is flat so worst case scenario I ride it out flat and not damage my rim.

Slime just seems to make a huge mess. I've heard there are other brands out there that are better but don't see the need.

I don't ride asphalt but to connect trails or get out of town if that matters and I run 10-16psi depending on terrain, etc...
Yeah that is all I do...mainly from my house to the dirt 10 miles away. I took the Interstate once last fall...I bought the bike to be off the road so thats what I mainly do. I think I will take the SLIME back next time I go out. I remember once trying one of those products in College in a bicycle tube as it said it could be used in...I still got a puncture and a flat and it was a huge mess. I remember the same deal with a rental vehicle with a friend, we put some fix a flat forgot it was in there when we got to a tire place...and boy the guy did not look happy when he took the tire off...it is a mess thats for sure.

I already have a normal tire repair kit, and a hand pump....so I'm golden then. I think the same way...as long as I can get back to the car or home or whatever, I'm fine.

A slash tire plug sticks will actually work, you just cram a bunch in...I did that for a sportbike tire...and was younger and crazier and tested it up to 155mph and it held fine (I would not do that again in life)...but for normal speeds on trails you would be fine.
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Old 03-17-2010, 06:44 PM   #8
TNC
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I've been using the Neutech setup too for several months now...and a lot of use in really rocky, harsh terrain full of cactus and mesquite. It's been bulletproof to this point. I also did a trip to Big Bend NP in December and drove numerous times at over 60 mph for some distance to connect off road sections. I had no issue and frequently felt the tire and rim for any heat issues or anything else I could detect. Even running aggressive DOT knobbies with tubeless Slime, I found no vibrations or lumpy sensations. I did a simple rotational balance at home, and apparently it worked.

I'm thinking that the guy who developed this setup can't authorize this system for road use because he'd never be able to fade the liability. Frankly I can't see why it would be less safe than a tube setup.

On the Slime issue, I think tubeless Slime in this application might be a good idea. I think it ends up being much like an tubeless ATV tire/wheel setup, and no ATV'ers around my area would try to operate an ATV without tubeless Slime with all our cactus and mesquite. Note...that's tubeless Slime. I do think Slime in a tube is practically useless, but I think it actually works in a tire set up as tubeless.

I love this system so far.
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Old 03-17-2010, 07:07 PM   #9
ganshert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNC
I'm thinking that the guy who developed this setup can't authorize this system for road use because he'd never be able to fade the liability. Frankly I can't see why it would be less safe than a tube setup.
I agree. It probably generates less heat / friction than a tube.

I've run it on the road 60+ for over an hour at a time too and not felt any heat and that was at 15ish psi.
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Old 03-17-2010, 07:40 PM   #10
TNC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ganshert
I agree. It probably generates less heat / friction than a tube.

I've run it on the road 60+ for over an hour at a time too and not felt any heat and that was at 15ish psi.
And to mention one other beauty of this setup is that the tire doesn't get squirmy at low pressure. It seems like the crown of the tire and the side lugs still give you that low pressure bite you like, but with the tire bead being clamped at all 360 degrees of the rim, the sidewall isn't flexing as much. Initially when this setup came out, I think most riders felt you'd have to run really low pressure to get an equal traction bite compared to a tubed setup, and that seemed to make sense. However, I'm beginning to think that the crown and side lugs of the knobby are doing what they should at relatively the same pressure as its tubed counterpart. In fact there may be an advantage that the sidewall isn't flexing as much while the crown and side lugs are providing a compliant bite. I may be totally wrong on this, but it's something I think I've noticed as of late as I've played with it more in true off road conditions.
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Old 03-17-2010, 07:57 PM   #11
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Just installed as well

I go the front tire on fine. The rear I nicked the rear tubliss tube (intaller error) and got another shipped to me that I haven't installed yet (no time).

I did paint the inside the tire with tubeless slime - we'll see how it works out.

I'm running them on a WR450.

Live well
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Old 03-17-2010, 08:50 PM   #12
ganshert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNC
And to mention one other beauty of this setup is that the tire doesn't get squirmy at low pressure. It seems like the crown of the tire and the side lugs still give you that low pressure bite you like, but with the tire bead being clamped at all 360 degrees of the rim, the sidewall isn't flexing as much. Initially when this setup came out, I think most riders felt you'd have to run really low pressure to get an equal traction bite compared to a tubed setup, and that seemed to make sense. However, I'm beginning to think that the crown and side lugs of the knobby are doing what they should at relatively the same pressure as its tubed counterpart. In fact there may be an advantage that the sidewall isn't flexing as much while the crown and side lugs are providing a compliant bite. I may be totally wrong on this, but it's something I think I've noticed as of late as I've played with it more in true off road conditions.
I don't know all the technical details but I sure do get better traction than with tubes even at low pressure. It's fairly confidence inspiring
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:35 PM   #13
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I also have been running the Tubliss setup for a while on my 450 EXC... Definitely a fan.

I do use slime, and have not had any punctures that I know of. If you do use slime, you use the automotive (tubeless) slime, not the moto/bike (tube type) slime. They are different formulations.

Main advantages IMHO?
  • Extremely puncture resistant with slime. I hate trailside flats!
  • Run-flat capability as the system acts as a bead lock on the entire tire. A tire witha decent sidewall is ridable at 0 psi for many miles. Get a flat, ride it out!
  • Can run at very low pressures for great traction with no possibility of pinch flats or breaking the bead.
  • lighter, cooler temperatures are nice, but secondary to the above.

The shock pump is an interesting idea... I have a couple for my mountain bikes anyway. Although they are very high pressure, they are very low volume. I'm not sure how they would work on the Tubliss system.
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:55 PM   #14
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I am kind of interested why there might be an advantage of a bike pump over C02 canisters?
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:27 PM   #15
Mike Morgan
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I have been running them on front and back of my WR450. So far I like them a lot. I have been running around 12 psi. They definately feel a little squirmy on the dirt, but not in a bad way. But what would you expect with that low of a pressure. On the flip side I get amazing traction. Very much a plus. I got a plug kit and a mountain bike pump with a built in pressure gauge. It gets the high pressure tube and the low pressure tire up to pressure in no time. I carry a mushroom plug kit from Stop n Go but I have not had to use it yet. We are riding Baja in a month and I thought this would be a good way to go. I don't like fixing flats. So far, no problems what so ever. The traction is great. I ride a lot of technical sections with lots of rocks and hit them hard. No problems. I like the system. Baja will be the real test. I am actually thinking about putting some tire slime in the tires. Should make it bullet proof. I don't really care about making the ride out of ballance on the road. I stay on the dirt. If I have to ride on the road for a short distance and the bike is out of balance. Who cares, it's a dirt bike. I probably should not have been on the road in the first place.
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