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Old 02-27-2010, 08:45 PM   #766
Dragon43 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zecatfish
I wouldn't pull that, its to clean.
It was running fine. I think you need to check the coil wire.
I went straight to the coil from the first connector and still nada just yesterday. I am wondering about the coil... ?

I be really cornfused......
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:47 PM   #767
RipperFox
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No need to pull it if you can see all is good. If you have access to the puller, then wouldnt hurt. I have one of every size, LH and RH thread. And I have an extra 27mm x 1.0 LH (LH fine) which is what it looks like you got...Yamahas other puller size (street bikes and such) is 16mm x 1.5 RH. 27 and 16 are not even close enough to even maybe get confused.
Verify, that threaded hole is just a pinch over 1 inch(25.4mm). Most (and I mean like 98%) of Yamaha dirtbikes, 2-strokes, thumpers. are 27mm x 1.0LH thread. I can mail you my extra one, or the whole kit for that matter. Or you can pick it up in Mountainburg on Wed. No matter.

But...if it looks good, and the three leeds test out good on the stator, wait till later.
A trick to see if the stator is good at working temp is to toss it in the oven at 200, then test the resistance. Also, if you know anyone with a Megger, that is the best way to test a stator and the coil. Slap about 600V on her and see how much goes to ground. Got one at work, if ya end up needing it tested, holla.

OH yeah...what ya got there? bore scope? Pics? Been wanting to get me one of them for the camera.

RipperFox screwed with this post 02-27-2010 at 08:55 PM
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:16 PM   #768
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The last Yammie I messed with-( a 74 dt 175cc) Had the points under that flywheel . Puller was less the 20.00 at the dealer. I never got a good visible spark , changed coils, plugs adjusted plug gap etc etc. Finally got lax and held plug in hand when test kicking and adjusting points, many kicks/adjustment later I got a hair curling jolt-.

In a nutshell... the point gap was the key to my old yammie running.
YMMV

On the other hand,, I might be interested if you decide to sell low.
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Old 02-28-2010, 10:48 PM   #769
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I have now got parts ordered and I'll go back to seeing it the stuff on the bike can be revived. Going to look at the points and the firing position in relation to the crank is 'on' next I guess.
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Old 03-01-2010, 06:16 AM   #770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon43
I have now got parts ordered and I'll go back to seeing it the stuff on the bike can be revived. Going to look at the points and the firing position in relation to the crank is 'on' next I guess.
am wav'n my magic wand in your direction hope'n this will work!

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Old 03-01-2010, 10:30 PM   #771
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Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Oh well, here are some of what I was fighting today.





I am beginning to think the XT500 is a Brit bike with an electrical system by Lucas.

I think I need a new coil but...

What you guys call the magneto winding for the ignition has one end going to ground . Of course. The black wire goes to a "T" and that goes to ground through the 'kill switch' & the 'ignition switch and through the points. It also goes through the primary winding of the coil to ground. Cool ain't it.

Unfortunately, With the ignition switch in the run position (un-grounding) that wire & with the kill switch in the run position (un-grounding) that wire, the induced current from the magneto, even with the points closed still causes current in the primary winding because it has very little resistance.
So... when the points open, it does not stop enough current to get a good induced voltage in the secondary.

I have a waving needle on my multi-meter but not enough energy to jump the gap. This makes no sense to me the way the wiring diagram shows it.

All things equal, a battery or a magneto providing current through the primary windings and through the points in series builds the flux that collapses across the secondary windings when the current is interrupted in the primary circuit.

It really does not matter if the lines are collapsing or building up, there needs to be that sudden increase of flux lines suddenly crossing the secondary windings.

I do not think the diagram is right or something is wrong inside the coil because the points do not affect the amount of current going through the primary circuit according to my meter. The points are not making enough difference in the current flow that when their part of the current stops, it does not make enough difference to 'fire' the secondary .....

I have never seen points ignition wired like this but.... it seem to have worked for many years in many bikes so what is wrong with the electrons in mine? They are on strike for some reason and I can't figure out why.

I'll take all suggestion, ideas and comments, even if the are snarky, insulting of my intelligence, funny, serious. profane. pornographic or..... I just need ideas or instructions, hints, help or a really big hammer. Well, I already used a hammer and other stuff & many profane words and noises to get one of the coil attaching screws out. I was beginning to think they had not only over torqued them but used green lock-tight, JB-weld, and super glue to keep them in there. Good thing I do not know who did that nor were they in reach because I might have need a really good friend to take care of what would have been left of the body. That was a 40 minute fight for just two screws (get you minds out of the gutter) and that little bracket is very soft and easy to mangle......

Anywho............... HELP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Life is simpler when you plow around the stump.
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Old 03-01-2010, 10:41 PM   #772
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Gus, I would take what you know to this point to Thumper Talk and post up in the appropriate forum. There are some real gurus in there. As far as a 40 minute screw...it's been years.

The other option is to take it to Travis and let him work his magic. He is very reasonable.
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:28 AM   #773
mouthfulloflake
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what are you measuring for resistance across the coil primary and secondary?

with that little black pig tail wire unhooked.

that little black pigtail is it common with the 'frame' of the coil? is it simply a redundant ground?

I cant understand why it would be in with the secondary HV lead?
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:09 AM   #774
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Funny thing is I am the guy that knows the least about this stuff and the only one here who is an electronics tech with an FCC license. If you had a problem with your radar, or I could spend a day learning how your bike works I could probably figure it out. I never played with any of that old tech stuff. Points, what's that?

I think mouth is pointing you the right way though, ohm out the coil windings, and I would throw new points in if they were cheap, or at least clean the hell out of them if you can get to them.
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:12 PM   #775
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Hey Gus, I once bought a 1970 Chevy pickup for $300.00 because the "mechanics" could not get it to run. I bought the truck and started to diagnose the problem, It took me 15 minutes to find a broken spot in the insulation in the wire going to the points which caused them to ground out. I replaced the wire, fired the truck up, and drove it home. (you should have seen the look I got from the guy who sold me the truck) I say replace the points and condenser, and check the wire going to the points.

James
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:33 PM   #776
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Arguuuuuuuuuhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

I agree and all that. You guys are right.

But......

The primary coil is parallel to the points, not series...... ???

I have new coil, points & condenser coming.

The little wire is the primary side of the coil, the other side is to ground. Same for the secondary, lead goes to spark plug and other end is ground.

Wire diagram.... Enjoy !!!!! :
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dhRsv7QUKHI/S4...am%20XT500.jpg
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:36 PM   #777
Elvis70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st_james
Hey Gus, I once bought a 1970 Chevy pickup for $300.00 because the "mechanics" could not get it to run. I bought the truck and started to diagnose the problem, It took me 15 minutes to find a broken spot in the insulation in the wire going to the points which caused them to ground out. I replaced the wire, fired the truck up, and drove it home. (you should have seen the look I got from the guy who sold me the truck) I say replace the points and condenser, and check the wire going to the points.

James
Similar story but unlke you I didn't win out I wasted $700 at 3 shops one of which was vw and the master mechanic decided that my speedometer was going in and out because the gear inside the dif that spun the speed sensor was bad. Dif and trans one unit and would have to be split.

This was over a 3 year period. One day I pulled the instrument cluster out and drove down the road while wiggling the connector on the back. Problem solved with a .05 cent tie wrap across the connector. Still pisses me off.

In all my time in the electronics business I would say that loose connectors/pins, or worn insulation on a wire, and bad solder joints accounted for near 75% of all problems. Problem solved, that will be $500.
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:32 PM   #778
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Quote:
In all my time in the electronics business I would say that loose connectors/pins, or worn insulation on a wire, and bad solder joints accounted for near 75% of all problems. Problem solved, that will be $500.
This is why I don't feel right taking it to a shop. Takes time to hunt down and they hate to charge for all that time to find a lose wire and I hate to pay for it. Oh well, the $1600 dizer in Van Buren is looking awfully good right now but in the long run, I'd rather have the old stuff that is a PITA cause most folks won't fight with them and also it is all I can't afford already so the fight goes on...... <--- I seem to like doing this cause I do it so much.....
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:45 PM   #779
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My fellow W*M shoppers today.





Just makes me feel good about our nations youth........
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:01 PM   #780
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Here is a quote from Miles White, CEO of Abbot Labs-a multibillion dollar pharmicutical company. Was in today's USA Today.


I am so impressed by the young people coming out of school today. They seem so much more worldly and mature than I remember me being, and they're so much more knowledgeable. I expect them to bring their ideas so that we can keep evolving and changing. People come to a company like Abbott sometimes and think, "Is's so big, I can't make a difference." I think just the opposite. I think everbody can make a difference.


Obviously this guy does't shop at Wal-Mart
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