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Old 11-26-2011, 05:25 PM   #136
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Originally Posted by LBS Bandit View Post
Here is one for ya! I have 25ft of 22ga wire. I would love to use it for a heated shell but the wire is only .4 ohms for the whole length. Can I put a resister inline, and if so should it be a certain type? By my calculations if I put a 2 ohm resister (2.4 total) in there at about 13 volts that will give me a wattage of 70.46. Any input would be much appreciated.
The resistor would dissipate about 59watts and the wire 11watts.

Your Jacket would be cold and the resistor (100w rated) would be about 6" long /1" in diameter and smokin' hot

You must use resistance wire or use 150' of your copper
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Old 11-26-2011, 05:28 PM   #137
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Originally Posted by GS Addict View Post
The resistor would dissipate about 59watts and the wire 11watts.

Your Jacket would be cold and the resistor (100w rated) would be about 6" long /1" in diameter and smokin' hot

You must use resistance wire or use 150' of your copper
.....................Guess I'm ordering some 30ga tomorrow.
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Old 11-26-2011, 08:21 PM   #138
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Originally Posted by GS Addict View Post
Have you tried injecting RTV Silicone into the connector body and assembling? I makes them much more rugged.
2 part 5 minute epoxy works well too.
Really helps with the waterproofing as well.
Also applies to Intercom connectors.
Yea, but the only connectors I had at time of assymbly were not very good quality. I still have coax on my controller, but I use SAE from controller to battery and from harness to glove. I still use the coax on the jacket also with no problems.
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:58 AM   #139
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Originally Posted by MattR302 View Post
I started to make my own heated jacket about 2-3 years ago, never got around to putting the connector on the end of it and finishing it up. I believe I used about 33' of 30awg teflon wire i bought on Ebay. I ended up getting a pair of firstgear carbon heated gloves for 50% at a local Kawi dealer. They tried to sell me the wiring and the controller, but I had to insist that I didnt want them.

I ended up making a simple OFF-LOW-HIGH controller. I used one of those plastic radio shack project boxes, with a center-off toggle switch. Flip the toggle switch up, its wired directly to the battery for 100% heat. Flip the toggle switch down, its wired through a turn signal relay inside the project box for about a 50% on-off pulse width, for a low heat setting.
Wouldn't modulating through a potentiometer or, using a multiple-way switch, using different values of resistors accomplish the same thing? I mean, that pulse-width thing is neat, sorta, but then I have to wonder what hell the constant bang-bang-bang of current draws is doing to the bike's recharging system... they just don't seem as strong as automobile charging systems.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:09 AM   #140
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Wouldn't modulating through a potentiometer or, using a multiple-way switch, using different values of resistors accomplish the same thing? I mean, that pulse-width thing is neat, sorta, but then I have to wonder what hell the constant bang-bang-bang of current draws is doing to the bike's recharging system... they just don't seem as strong as automobile charging systems.
Any series resistance will get hot and the resistors need to be quite large.
What he has done with the flasher is create a cheap PWM controller with a 50% duty cycle.
Not a bad low$ idea.
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:44 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Wouldn't modulating through a potentiometer or, using a multiple-way switch, using different values of resistors accomplish the same thing? I mean, that pulse-width thing is neat, sorta, but then I have to wonder what hell the constant bang-bang-bang of current draws is doing to the bike's recharging system... they just don't seem as strong as automobile charging systems.
yes, a pot would accomplish the same thing, or different resistors, but the problem with that is that you're losing energy to the resistors in the form of heat (the resistors will get hot). If you're not worried about that, you're not running multiple accessories, and you can mount the resistor in a way to dissipate the heat, then go for it.

The pulse-width-modulation is how the real heat-troller dealies work. For example, for 25% power, the controller would be "ON" for 25% of the time (say 250 milliseconds), and "OFF" for 75% of the time (750 milliseconds). What I did with the turn signal relay, is with a rough 50% PWM cyce. Doing it this way, you're not losing power to any resistors.
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:39 PM   #142
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This type of controller is cheaper than a high wattage resistor and switch.
8 amps of capacity 0-100% PWM control
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-12V-8A-LED...item5d2ffac9dc

I use them for all kinds of DC control including my heated jacket.
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:40 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by GS Addict View Post
Have you tried injecting RTV Silicone into the connector body and assembling? I makes them much more rugged.
2 part 5 minute epoxy works well too.
Really helps with the waterproofing as well.
Also applies to Intercom connectors.
+1

I fill my coax plugs with PC-11 epoxy putty and then cover them with shrink tube. Works well.

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Old 11-29-2011, 05:44 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by 65 Flathead View Post
I have had a few hiccups with the gloves, but after I switched from the DC Coax to the SAE connectors, I’ve had no more Issues. I can’t find any solder on Coax connectors that will handle the current the gloves draw for more than a few months before they start to loose connection. I am actually considering purchasing some Warm and Safe gloves though. I was never fully satisfied with my home made ones. It was just too much trouble getting enough wire threaded thru the gloves without compromising the waterproofing.
Kind of make me glad I had issues getting my old cold weather m/c gloves to turn inside out and went with the glove liner idea. My only problem with those was the first pair I made put out too much heat. Second pair is much better. I haven't had any issues with the audio connectors I got from Radio Shack. I have the female side velcro strapped to the handlebars and on the gloves then use a male to male cable to connect the two. RS has male cables with bare leads but they're much too long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GS Addict View Post
This type of controller is cheaper than a high wattage resistor and switch.
8 amps of capacity 0-100% PWM control
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-12V-8A-LED...item5d2ffac9dc

I use them for all kinds of DC control including my heated jacket.
I love mine! I took it out of the box in came in because it's a bit bulky.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KEN PHENIX View Post
+1

I fill my coax plugs with PC-11 epoxy putty and then cover them with shrink tube. Works well.
Great tip! I'll keep that in mind when I switch over the connectors on my pant and jacket liners later this month.
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:53 PM   #145
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Flathead

I registered here to thank you for your posts about DIY heated clothing. I was seconds away from clicking the buy button on a new gerbings liner when I decided to research competitor options and inadvertently came across diy options. I eventually landed here and and saw your jacket that inspired me to a similar concept.

I spent 4 hrs sewing in 30' of 30g magnet wire available at radio shack (because I already had it) into a shirt that's similar to long johns but about twice the thickness. Sorry I'm not all that up to date on what type of weave or pattern that is!

I spent $0 on the initial application because I had the few items in hand already and rode to work at 41 deg this morning toasty as a bug in a rug as my mother used to say, the smile on my face must have been been as wide as a 12" dinner plate.I could have spent $200 on the commercial stuff and been happy too but it wouldn't have arrived in time for this weekends toys for tots ride and the $20 I spent today for connectors leaves me with more $ for the children!

I read several ideas before I found yours that was unique and perfect for me, God Bless you my friend!

It's simple for now, no heat controller, just on or off. Well, hopefully we'll have a switch hooked up before the ride! The test run switch was pulling the fuse if things got out of hand! Thought I might share some pics to include with my success thus far.

Hope you can see it, this is the back.


The front


30' didn't work out exactly where I wanted for the connector but a little improve goes along ways!


and a close up of stitching it through a thermal underwear type fabric.
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Old 12-02-2011, 08:18 PM   #146
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Will a single strand 30g wire from radio shack last? IDK but for $8 for 200' I'm about to find out! I can rewire this thing 20 times for $8! I'll rewire this thing 3x every year if I have to for that cost!

4hrs * 2.5beers an hr= 12 pack once or twice a year = a damn good reason to be in the manshop.
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:03 PM   #147
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I bought single strand hook up wire and singed a lot of stuff before switching to nichrome. You can get 50ft of 30awg hook up wire from ebay for around $12 delivered here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-ft-Strand...ht_1701wt_1038 if what you used doesn't hold up.
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Old 12-04-2011, 05:28 PM   #148
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Flathead


I spent $0 on the initial application because I had the few items in hand already and rode to work at 41 deg this morning toasty as a bug in a rug as my mother used to say, the smile on my face must have been been as wide as a 12" dinner plate.I could have spent $200 on the commercial stuff and been happy too but it wouldn't have arrived in time for this weekends toys for tots ride and the $20 I spent today for connectors leaves me with more $ for the children!

I read several ideas before I found yours that was unique and perfect for me, God Bless you my friend!
Good Job!! It looks great, and thanks for the feedback!

Oh yea, and if it werent for the "cold beer factor" DIY would just be a drag.
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Old 12-04-2011, 05:42 PM   #149
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
but then I have to wonder what hell the constant bang-bang-bang of current draws is doing to the bike's recharging system...
The pwm's operate at at a frequency range that is all but invisible to the charging system. Mine cycle at roughly 1 kHZ and comes straight off the battery. In regards to what the stator or regulator feel, it's just another DC load because 1. the switching frequency is so high and 2. the battery acts in essence as a filter capacitor.

As stated, a pot or series resistor would have to dissipate the same wattage as your jacket to cut the power to 50%. There would be too much issue with heat and it’s just not efficient. The PWM is either off or on with “virtually” no resistance. No resistance means very little heat.
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:03 PM   #150
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Picked up 300' (yea yea way too much) of silver plated copper teflon lined 30awg for less than $10 and the ebay PWM.. I'll be trying this project out over the Christmas vacation :)

So far the cost (prices include cost)
300' 30awg silver-plated copper wire teflon insulated $9.75 (eBay)
LED Dimmer 12V 8A PWM Controller - $3.97 (eBay)
DC Power Male Coax Cable - $1.59 (Amazon)
DC Power Female Coax Cable - $1.50 (eBay)
SAE DC Two Pin Power Connector - $4.46 (eBay)

Total: $21.27

Still need to figure out what garment to use.. Thanks to GS Addict for helping out with a wiring diagram for me.
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