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Old 01-17-2010, 06:09 PM   #76
KEN PHENIX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theWolfTamer
I was inspired. Between you and ken phenix, I made my own gloves. Finally finished them and got them right Christmas night. A little run today and I had warm comfortable hands in 39 degree weather (according to a church sign I passed).


EXCELLENT!!

What type wire are you using?
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Old 01-17-2010, 06:54 PM   #77
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Oh,yeah, thought I'd "relay" my recent experience. We've had several mornings in the 20's here. The new thirty something watt glove liners are pretty much overkill. Half volume on the Heat-Troller is HOT and they heat up quick - much quicker then my earlier gloves. I used the two loops of nichrome mainly for redundancy anyway - in case a wire breaks I'll still have 1/2 power. I did have to move some of the wires away from my knuckles where they caused a little discomfort. All fine now.

Love the fan concroller idea! Keep us posted. I originally used a 12v light dimmer from an RV dealer and before it died it actually increased the heat setting on its own! I could watch the knob actually turn itself to the right. I gave up and bought a Warm N Safe unit.
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Old 01-18-2010, 12:01 AM   #78
theWolfTamer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEN PHENIX
EXCELLENT!!

What type wire are you using?
At first I bought teflon wire but it was the single strand not multi strand. It was too hot and burned the gloves. Then I went to your page and bought the wire from your link. I used two 4.5 feet loops and put them in the heat shrink together. I soldered 16 gauge automotive wire around the nichrome (since it doesn't solder well) and used red heat shrink to keep everything snug before the mono audio jack.

The gloves heat great and very evenly. I ended up using the teflon wire as "thread", turns out the color combo matched the gloves I got from Home Depot, because from my previous experience it got singed too and wouldn't hold.

The fan controller is working great so far. I've found the best setting for me is just below half, which puts out about 6 or 8 volts (I can't remember the exact numbers now). Full on gets down right uncomfortable and could really cause an accident as you want to get the glove off as soon as possible and tend to forget what you are doing!!

I also used mono audio connectors instead of the two wire sae. Makes a secure connection and is easy to remove.

theWolfTamer screwed with this post 01-18-2010 at 12:07 AM
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Old 01-18-2010, 12:05 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaChayalBoded
how long has it been in use, curious to know if it holds up or not.
Longest I had it in use was on Christmas Eve when I went to Helen, GA with some friends. That was about 3 or 5 hours on and off. Constant, I think the most has been maybe two hours.
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Old 01-18-2010, 05:40 AM   #80
HaChayalBoded
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theWolfTamer
Longest I had it in use was on Christmas Eve when I went to Helen, GA with some friends. That was about 3 or 5 hours on and off. Constant, I think the most has been maybe two hours.
glad its working out, I'd be curious to know if it would sustain higher loads, like maybe a heated jacket.
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:33 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaChayalBoded
glad its working out, I'd be curious to know if it would sustain higher loads, like maybe a heated jacket.
Yeah, I really like the idea of the fan controller too. In keeping with the 20w max rating per pot, I see possibilities to control heat in different areas of a jacket independently. Otherwise, it would probably be a good idea to spring for the warm 'n safe Heat-Troller pulse modulator to run a 75w or 100w jacket.
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:38 AM   #82
KEN PHENIX
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Hey WolfTamer, I'll be riding through your fair state with my electrics "on" next month. Gonna drive a moving truck from TX to VA and then ride back. Can you suggest some good roads in GA?
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:39 AM   #83
HaChayalBoded
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEN PHENIX
Yeah, I really like the idea of the fan controller too. In keeping with the 20w max rating per pot, I see possibilities to control heat in different areas of a jacket independently. Otherwise, it would probably be a good idea to spring for the warm 'n safe Heat-Troller pulse modulator to run a 75w or 100w jacket.
they used to make 75w fan controllers, wonder why I can no longer find any. Shoulda bought one when they were available.
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:58 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEN PHENIX
Hey WolfTamer, I'll be riding through your fair state with my electrics "on" next month. Gonna drive a moving truck from TX to VA and then ride back. Can you suggest some good roads in GA?
you might not want to ride through VA at the end of february.
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:29 AM   #85
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Great write up!!

Love it!
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:58 AM   #86
Lotus54
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I've started making my own heated stuff a number of years ago.
I think from the old 'Sue's homemade heated gear' info.

I found it worked quite well, but learned some things.

1. Like mentioned, keep the wire as close and snug to your body as you can. If it sits away just a bit, it won't work nearly as well.

2. The connection to the power cord needs to have very good strain relief so it doesn't get damaged when you forget to unplug.

In the past I wired up the liners of my various jackets, but got a Roadcrafter and it didn't have a liner. I started looking into jackets to wire up, but by the time I got one that had elastic to keep it snug, some sort of windproofing- I just bought one of the Warm-n-Safe ones.

A little comparison, from a cheap...er... thrifty guy.

Having the elastic on the jacket that made it very snug but comfortable is really important to how well it works. Maybe some don't get as cold as I do, but it made a huge difference.
The heated collar was very nice and well worth addition.
Wiring that allows plugging in gloves/socks - either in parallel or separately is well work it also.

In the past I ran wires and controllers separate for jacket/gloves/socks. Now I'm running one controller for all. A bit of a trade off, since optimum temperature for each item isn't always possible, but I like it better since it is one plug-in and I have a handlebar mounted heat controller.

That said, it was well worth it for me to just buy the Warm-n-Safe jacket.
For those that don't want to spend the money (or don't have it) I'd keep the points in mind when you make one. May or may not be important to you but all worthy features for me.

Gloves, I've never tried to make any, but had some Widder ones in the past. Warm, but bulky as heck and I never liked them.
Sold them and got he Warm-n-Safe 'Ultimate' heated glove. No insulation, thin like summer gloves, knuckle guards (more on that later) and a waterproof layer.
I tired them with and without the waterproof layer and couldn't tell any feel difference at all, but the ones with the layer were noticeably warmer. I guess they don't make them like that anymore and that is too bad. Others that don't have Reynolds and problems with cold fingers may not notice the difference.

On the knuckle guards, I got in a wreck about a year and a half ago (my own dumb fault) and hit my hand very hard on something (probably the car). I had a huge bruise, but I'm convinced that my hand would have been broken without the carbon knuckle guards. I'm a big believer.

I know I'm sounding like a Warm-n-Safe rep or something, but I'm just a very satisfied customer (there customer service is fantastic).

So, keep it snug, one thin layer under, wamer layers over. Don't have the wired overlap or get too close to each other (hot spots), use decent sized wire TO the heated wire.

Mark
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:43 PM   #87
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The ultimate gloves come with or without the Waterproof liner.
Many people wrote in saying they wanted some insulation in the glove. It's a very thin layer of thinsulate. That's why the non insulated glove was dropped.

The Classic Rider gloves are best for cold riding. Larry




Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus54
I've started making my own heated stuff a number of years ago.
I think from the old 'Sue's homemade heated gear' info.

I found it worked quite well, but learned some things.

1. Like mentioned, keep the wire as close and snug to your body as you can. If it sits away just a bit, it won't work nearly as well.

2. The connection to the power cord needs to have very good strain relief so it doesn't get damaged when you forget to unplug.

In the past I wired up the liners of my various jackets, but got a Roadcrafter and it didn't have a liner. I started looking into jackets to wire up, but by the time I got one that had elastic to keep it snug, some sort of windproofing- I just bought one of the Warm-n-Safe ones.

A little comparison, from a cheap...er... thrifty guy.

Having the elastic on the jacket that made it very snug but comfortable is really important to how well it works. Maybe some don't get as cold as I do, but it made a huge difference.
The heated collar was very nice and well worth addition.
Wiring that allows plugging in gloves/socks - either in parallel or separately is well work it also.

In the past I ran wires and controllers separate for jacket/gloves/socks. Now I'm running one controller for all. A bit of a trade off, since optimum temperature for each item isn't always possible, but I like it better since it is one plug-in and I have a handlebar mounted heat controller.

That said, it was well worth it for me to just buy the Warm-n-Safe jacket.
For those that don't want to spend the money (or don't have it) I'd keep the points in mind when you make one. May or may not be important to you but all worthy features for me.

Gloves, I've never tried to make any, but had some Widder ones in the past. Warm, but bulky as heck and I never liked them.
Sold them and got he Warm-n-Safe 'Ultimate' heated glove. No insulation, thin like summer gloves, knuckle guards (more on that later) and a waterproof layer.
I tired them with and without the waterproof layer and couldn't tell any feel difference at all, but the ones with the layer were noticeably warmer. I guess they don't make them like that anymore and that is too bad. Others that don't have Reynolds and problems with cold fingers may not notice the difference.

On the knuckle guards, I got in a wreck about a year and a half ago (my own dumb fault) and hit my hand very hard on something (probably the car). I had a huge bruise, but I'm convinced that my hand would have been broken without the carbon knuckle guards. I'm a big believer.

I know I'm sounding like a Warm-n-Safe rep or something, but I'm just a very satisfied customer (there customer service is fantastic).

So, keep it snug, one thin layer under, wamer layers over. Don't have the wired overlap or get too close to each other (hot spots), use decent sized wire TO the heated wire.

Mark
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Old 01-18-2010, 02:02 PM   #88
Lotus54
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I've riden sub freezing with the non-insulated ones and still had nice, warm hands.
I like the feel of no insulation - that said I've never tried the insulated ones.

For me I'd rather have the no insulation but waterproof liner as an option, since I couldn't feel the liner anyway. Maybe others could.

Great stuff!
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:06 PM   #89
theWolfTamer
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I put my homemade liners in my old Heine Geircke Gloves. Here they are on the bike with the power module in the tank bag:



KEN PHENIX shoot me a pm, maybe we can meet. I'll have to check on the roads. Not sure what the weather will look like so I don't know which roads will be best. Hwys 60 and 180 come to mind though.
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:30 AM   #90
KEN PHENIX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theWolfTamer
KEN PHENIX shoot me a pm, maybe we can meet. I'll have to check on the roads. Not sure what the weather will look like so I don't know which roads will be best. Hwys 60 and 180 come to mind though.
Cool. I'll be riding through GA some time the first week in Feb, after I play on the Dragon a while. I'll let you know.
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